subarubrat

It was either 25 or 29.

Hobby Hanger in Chantilly VA has TWO 360 models on the shelf. I think the manufacturer was something like Hasagawa. Just wanted to pass it along in case anyone was interested.

I would think water pump or thermo. Get a failsafe unit, they fail open.

I have a set of pillowball mounts for hydrolic cylinders that I am working with as a bearing point for the radius rods. Should provide for a ton more movement and much more precise geometry. But having gone with a long throw strut with a spring that can utilize it my number one headache is the radius rod. I do however like the strut design.

On the way into work tonight I passed car after car in the ditch.

The Ranchos are available in different versions the part numbers are: For RS9000 adjustables: RS99185 RS99115 For RS5000 : RS5185 RS5115 I think that is rear and front respectivly but I would have to look on the truck for sure and I can't do that at the moment. But remember the mounts on these are right but the length is all wrong unless you run the same lift and springs I do. However, it is easy to find the right lengths and mounts. Just go to the Catalog Specifications on http://www.gorancho.com and look up my shocks to see what size the mounts are. Then go down the list and find ones that are the same mounts but the right length. Some mounts like the eyelet type may not be the exact same in your length but that can be dealth with by bushings or bolt size selections. I will have to look around for the box for the cartridge, I hope I saved it.

Gut the strut and install a new cartridge with more travel. Then the Rancho is in parallel with the strut.

For the front.... Cut off the top of the strut at the weld (CAREFUL, it will spew and smoke). Get a KYB GR-2 strut cartridge, I think mine was for a VW beetle/baja bug. I dug around the back shelf at the parts store till I found one that was right. It has about 8 inches of stroke. Install that into your now empty strut tube. (wach out, there are several different diameters on the shelf, I had to go back and get a larger diameter one. On both the front and rear I am using Ranchos that have a stroke of about 9 inches. The springs are the real limiter in the front, with the kings and the Rancho combo I get about triple the stock travel range, now if I could only resolve the camber at the outer edges of the travel range....\

I consider it a hybrid and I always have. Asking if it is a body or suspension lift is like when people ask us if we have in inline or V engine and we say it is flat, then they ask again if it is inline or V. The suspension mount points are moved down while the "frame" (albeit attatched to the body permenantly) stays in place. If you look at many suspension lift kits they do just that, move the suspension mount points. On the other hand, like a body kit the engine and driveline stays in a relative place while the body goes up. SO my view is that just like everything else when it comes to our trucks/cars, it is like nothing else one the road.

Keep emailing them and let them know the interest is out there. Who knows what other cars share our front diffs. I am really REALLY considering doing one of these.

State or D.C.? I use 89 Toyota 4x4 Bushwhacker cut out flares.

Man I have had a blast. I took a coworker home this morning because her Boxter would not make it out of the parking lot. Then when I went home I made sure I had my fun. Another guy I work with has an expedition and was making some pretty bold claims about my BRAT Vs his truck until I blasted past him out of the lot, did about a dozen revolutions at the end of the road and met him coming back the other way. If any VA folks want to get together Sat. afternoon let me know, I have to work again tonight but I should be up and about by afternoon. Maybe we could meet up in Culpeper, central to Myself, Meeky, and Jay Hoagan.

Find a place that doesn't care. If you get a ticket for noise pay it and go on with life. They are only interested in your $44.56 anyway.

Hass, the ones you and I use are also known as the cut out type, in that you are able to cut away portions of the fender and have a new sized opening (as I have done). BW also makes a model called extend a flares that do not differ from the original wheel well contour. If you use the extandas the contour will be all wrong. If you just want some 2~3in. flare, JC whitney has some rubber flares that are well made and are flexable enough to contour to anything.

Used the stock first 8 inches of Y pipe where it goes straight, then custom bent to reach under the tranny mount then each side veers past the frame rail where it meets the purplehornie sidepipe. 3inch pipe exits at an angle. You can see the pipe exit here: Now I have the H6 but the EA81 would be the same process. I can snap some underneath pics, and I need to do a how to write up......

Man I got nothin just 45 min away.

Ditto on the cybrid but nothing that can't be dealt with. All in all a great car, that said having owned one.

You should replace the cotter pin with a new one if you take the castle nut off, that is probably what you were thinking of.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33590&item=2445667238

And if you wanted to get really fancy, you could use this to activate the fan and heater door at a given temp and turn it off again at a given temp. For about $30 you could have a digital display and automatic control of your heating system. http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/meas/ck108.htm

What you have with a SINGLE one of these units is a 3 speed fan control. On 1 you have the entire value of the resistor limiting the fan speed. By choosing a higher value you can set the low speed as desired. The center tap is adjustable where you can have more or less resistance for less or more fan speed. Just connect it up and dial it in (that would be position 2). For position 3 you are skipping the resistor all together and going full speed. If you want 4 steps then just add a 2nd resistor for a 4th step. Another solution would be to build this circuit with a final output transistor capable of handeling the amperage of the motor. You could then mount your fan switch on the shaf of the pot and have proportional control from 0 to max. OR for under $20 you can buy this kit. With this particular kit the FET is rated at 50 amps with a decent heatsink. The circuit traces will need to be made larger or overlayed with wire. Use a defunct PC cooling fan heatsink and place the FET in the intake path of the blower for cooling and you should be fine. http://electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1400.htm Again, you would just mount the pot in the dash with the stock speed dial on it, or just a seperate knob if you are lazy. AND in case I wasn't clear as to the point in all of this, it will give you proportional smooth speed control of the blower, so that 20%is 20% of max speed, 50% is 50%, and so on.

On the way to work on Thanksgiving I hit a huge pothole that bent a Supertourismo wheel on my Impreza and damamged a rotor and caliper. I am replacing the whole thing with a WRX upgraded brake kit. And I still have to get to Baltimore early next week to get the wheel fixed. Then last weekend I fragged reverse in the BRAT and had to swap the tranny. I swapped to a good one but I am getting some grinding going into 2nd and reverse from a dead stop. That means that my clutch is not fully disengaging. 99% chance of a scuffed spline on the tranny. SO I get to pull it all apart again to dress up the tranny splines so that the clutch disk won't remain pushed up against the flywheel when the pedal is in. Then to top it off, my heater core began to vomit on the way home from work this morning. Overnighting one in and already have the old one pulled. Now I have to throw the new one in tommorow when I should be sleeping before work. And naturally no time to pull that tranny and tune up the clutch. So I get to do drive to work in the coming slush doing that voodoo wiggle shift into second. This week sucks.

OH yes, THE hole

Autozone has some on Ricer's row that might fit.

Here are a few: This one belongs to Meeky Moose: Here are mine: