subarubrat

That is actually an article that anotehr fellow wrote for his technique. Mine are Ranchos ordered to match the total length of the stock shock plus 8in. Like so:

Getaway car huh. Early Legacy turbo sounds like the max you will get for your planned money.

Easy, the same way Harleys and pre 1980 domestics can be as loud as they want to. If you need a B.S. inspection place, I know of a few.

In my BRAT I pulled the hill holder all together and replaced it with a three way block identical to the one next to it. Allows allot more room for the disty on the ER27

John, Take a look at the fuel rail, you will see one of them goes right into the fuel rail, this connects to the line from the filter. The one next to it comes from the other fuel rail and is the return line. I can look at my ER27 after work tommrow and tell you for sure, I bet they are similar. The ER27 has three and the third is for the cannister. I left my Subaru Parka over at your place on the chair while we were doing that swap right? If so I will hook up with you later this week.

Feel free to ask me anything you want about the conversion and hookup. As you strip a few pointers. Get ALL the harness and connectors that go from the ECU in the trunk to the engine. Get the ECU. Do NOT cut the ECU wiring harness it will be just the right length although it looks long. Don't worry about the part that is under the dash containing the ignition and fuel pump relays, you can build that on the ECU itself and save MUCH space. Get the fuel pump. Get the intake and MAF, toss the airbox. Get the motor mounts. Get the bracket that holds the coil, it has a crucial electrical part. Get the flywheel, ditch the clutch and pressure plate. Get the header. Get the O2 sensor. Save the alternator wiring but don't plan on using it.

Also, there is NO fill tube, the cap locks into the top of the fuel cell itself.

I would not be too eager to move the fuel tank indoors, although it is often done on race only vehicles. The real issues you would have to deal with are the filling of the cell which would definatly get some fumes in the car and with the foam filled cell some overflow is common. There is also the vent line, that could be routed overboard. All together I think it is not the safest option. The actual conversion varies if you have a carb or fuel injection. In my case I have FI so I have a return flow system. The fittings were not the easiest because the tank has 3/8 ID AN fittings AN7 I think. I have 3/8 braided stainless running to the pump and from the return hardline. The hardlines I left in place. Going from a 3/8 braided stainless to 1/4 hardline involved having a threaded fitting brazed on by a shop. You need your two hardlines modded to mate with the AN fitting on the end of the hose from the fuel cell. You must also secure the tank, I used the steel strap mounting kit from Summit.

4 large, and of course I am interested in a retailer if anyone knows of one.

Yep, nothing. I am about to start digging around ebay.

Oh that's the real insult to injury, every auto parts store here has the OEM boot band tool ONLY, and they all sell the POS smooth bands ONLLY.

There is a selection of 6 lug wheels that have very different backspacing than those intended for offroad. You see them every now and then on Toyota 4X4s, usually the ones that are lowered and are sporting street tires. I imagine there aren't many but they are out there.

I have lots of new boots, I just need the clamps.

These crappy bands are no comparison to the OEM type with the catches and compression fit. The smooth metal offers no grip for tightening and none for holding. What use are these pieces of S***. Anyone know of a source for OEM type bands?

Also, if your car has a tranny cooler, and of course the lines running to it, check those, the tranny cooler may be damaged or rotting.

I screwed on a nut to protect the threads then pressed the axle out with a BFH.

Call him and offer to meet him at a location to make the deal. When he arrives you and your associates beat him within an inch of his life.

If it has two different pigtails coming out of it and it is a large transistor mounted on a aluminum heatsink then it is the ignition amplifier. If it is a small round canister about a third the size of a AA battery with one wire coming out of each end then it is a capacitor (condesor) to take AC noise from the alternator out of the DC system (as well as some ignition noise). So your radio doesn't have a whine in it. If you are getting whine on your radio then get any decent ignition/alternator filter kit, I know radio shack has them and sometimes I have seen them in Autozone. If you are getting no noise then don't bother.

Just run it as a mid engine config with a FWD tranny.

A 4bl would be way overcarbed and of no benefit. There is a very well matched 2bl weber that has been proven. Do a search for that.

6 lug conversion all the way. http://www.subarubrat.com/6lugconv.htm

I do four days on and four days off flying LEO communication satellites, alternating days and nights. So my days off vary every week.

I'd meet up with you but I am working all weekend.

Take the last exit into Culpeper (coming from you direction) it is the one near the big antenna. Go along the road until you see the Carwash on your left and on the other side of the intersection you will see walmart on the left and ruby tuesday on the right. Turn right at that intersection and follow the road around until is Ts with another, this should be not too far past the school. Then turn right. Sunnys will be down a few miles on the left. Look for two metal buildings and a buch of cars. Don't expect allot from Sunnys, the same Subarus have been there since I moved here 3 years ago. But I do believe that the two BRATs have theirs. Check out the one BRAT that had a conversion to a wooden flatbed, it is too far gone to save but it was very unique. As far as the yard layout goes, when you get to the bottom of the hill you will see the road splits, the left side is domestic and the right side is import.

Second that on the 82. When I had the EA82 in the BRAT it ran much better with the ECU unplugged. At one point the ECU was triggering the feedback solenoid which shut off the fuel supply and the truck would sputter to a stop. I unscrewed it and threw it as far into the woods as I could. It ran fine the rest of the time that the EA82 was in it.