subarubrat

IF I had Brat seats in my truck I would, but they were replaced with seats from a Loyale.

I finished the rest of the interior parts today and took the truck to a local detailer who has a steam carpet machine and they did a wonderful job on the carpet, about a 9 out of 10 now but I will still look for a NOS one. The most important remaining parts I need are some OEM seats and I am looking for new or like new and if you have any please PM me!!

Yes, sold by a company called Sideshow.

Eh eh, always fun to watch the reaction when someone who hasn't seen him before walks around the corner! A friend's girlfriend actually would not be in the house by herself because of it!

Yes, correct. Normally duplicolor has me running away but after seeing the results in some very nice vintage cars with unobtainable interior parts I was convinced, good stuff!

I updated my list but it is still a little unclear where some of the numbers fit. I have two perfect condition step assemblies so I don't need those. The big questions are if those door trim numbers are accurate, and the two numbers I have ??? next to. Are those these numbers you posted or something else? 791044030 RH 791044100 LH LH 791028080 - door molding (not sure if number is accurate) ????????? - moulding behind rear wheel 791022340 - rear mud flap RH 791028070 - door moulding (not sure if number is accurate) ????????? - moulding in front of rear tire 791022330 - rear mud flap

It depends on what you goal is, do you just want it running or do you want it to look like it was bought brand new last week? Over the last year I stripped my 82 down to the bare shell, had that stripped to bare metal, and then put the whole thing back together with a new motor build, pretty much every part is new or totally refurbed. If you need any how to advice on a specific aspect just ask.

Afterbang, thank you very much! I look forward to those part numbers. Even if they don't get an immediate find at the dealerships/RockAuto/Subaruparts.com etc. they are critical for setting up a search on ebay and craigslist to snag them if posted for sale.

Not giving up, found half already and I am going to dig until I find the rest.

Any thoughts about swapping in a modern Subaru diesel engine, I think it would be the perfect match! Something like this; http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/1174868-post1.html

I sent a few PMs to people who had posted about the trim parts but heard nothing yet, if anyone can give me some solid info (and/or has these parts NOS for sale!!!) it would be appreciated. Subaruparts.com listed a complete trim belt moulding set with rear mud flaps for 83-86 Brat GL and I ordered all the pieces, turns out many were out of stock. What I did get and verified from part numbers on the packaging were: RIGHT HAND: 791028010 - strip behind front wheel 791028690 - strip behind rear wheel LEFT HAND 791028020 - strip behind front wheel 791028680 - strip in front of rear wheel The muddy part is that subaruparts.com re-use those part numbers for things such as mud flaps causing the confusion that they were in stock. Sorting through the mess, it seems that the remaining part numbers I need are: LH 791028080 - door molding (not sure if number is accurate) ????????? - moulding behind rear wheel ????????? - rear mud flap RH 791028070 - door moulding (not sure if number is accurate) ????????? - moulding in front of rear tire ????????? - rear mud flap Can anyone comment on those above six part numbers?

Restored the interior and it is going back in this week.

3rd eye up and working!

Amazing job so far! I always had the idea of a dually Brat project in the back of my mind but I hadn't gone for it yet, you did and it looks as good as I thought it might!

I have had two Subbies "shot out from underneath me" and if I ever had to pick a car to trust myself of family in a wreck it would be a Subaru. Got your PM, shot you a response!

Just remember your loosing that protection against water, mud, salt intrusion etc. But that is the tradeoff for modding your rig for bigger tires. You can spray everything with a good layer of undercoating, only trim the plastic liner down as far as you need and such, but if you want those tires with that amount of lift you have to make some trade offs. You can make allot of room if you want, here is a pic of my big Brat and what was left of the fenders:

You can remove the plastic, hammer that seam over flat and gain a fair amount of room.

It would, but a very easy swap is the SVX 3.3L H6, I swapped one into mine just over 20 years ago and it fits and even stock provides amazing power for the car! I see you have an SVX in your signature so you have the luxury of doing some visual comparisons to get your mind working. You can also fit in two of the IHI RHB5 turbos, intercoolers, and piping, although today there are much better choices in turbos. And of course you can make the same power with a JDM STi swap and it fits easier, but that big H6 makes a statement. That pic of the manifold takes me back, that is how mine started life with an EA82 with that grid pattern, very pretty!

LS3 swap!!!

As a pilot I have always favored aeronautical engines over automotive conversions, both my planes are powered by aeronautical engines (O-200 and an IO-360) and I think the overwhelming evidence is that automotive engine conversions just don't have the reliability of aviation specific engines. That said, the only automotive engine I would feel safe flying with is an EA81, it has a very simple and strong rotating mass and valvetrain that is under very little stress. The EA82 is just too complex and delicate compared to the EA81 for what is needed in an aviation power plant.

Ran the motor the other day and it sounds strong! Brakes are bled and as soon as the throttle cable shows up its time to go for a drive! Still remaining is the whole interior...... Got some minor cleanup to do on the wiring harness, install the bed carpet, and continue to search for two NOS trim strips and seats.

I just bought a magnaflow and returned it because it was so poorly fabricated that it could not fit on the truck, flanges at odd angles and rust on the "stainless", and even pipes sticking beyond the edge of the flanges. Others have had good experiences.

Naru thank you very much, your input solved the problem. The module was working as it should, so it had to be a harness problem. I pulled the plastic buttons on the rear plastic panel and found that the previous owner had cut the lines to the fuel pump and ran those lines to a switch hidden under the seat!!!! It got bumped to off at some point. He also had a very early security system on it, the ones with the key on the fender, so he must have been worried about it being stolen. With that crap removed the pump is now shooting fuel to the carb as intended! And she starts and man is that a mean sounding EA81 with all the mods in it!!

The shop manual has more info on the door chime than this fuel pump control unit, any idea which pin is the output to the fuel pump so I can see if the thing is even working?

I also can feel a relay in that control box kicking on and off with the ignition being turned to start.