Ratty2Austin

well, I just helped Carl retune his hitachi, and the rich/lean adjust is the lower (larger) flat blade screw on the front of the hitachi.... screw in (CW) to lean out, screw out (CCW) to richen it up.

yes i did... I have an ea81 engine. ea81 stock belhousing. ea81 4wd "large" flywheel. ea82 turbo clutch disc (aftermarket, listed as a 88 turbowagon clutch kit) and the ea82 pressure plate from the same kit as the clutch disc (I also tried fitting one at pap when I was doing some mix and match testing..) and I also used the same throwout bearing from the same kit too (ea82 TO bearing) hope this helps...

no sunday? or evening saturday? ( i guess you want light for pictures? ) sorry, but I will be at work saturday @ 2.... but i get off at 6 and would like to meet at pepperdock or wherever (if I see a bunch of subarus at alki anywhere down there, I will be able to find you guys!)

hmm.. similar thing happened to me.. twice so far... one time, i had to go get the vehicle (which was abandoned) and bring it back home, after assuming it was a done deal and gone... and reciving a parking ticket for it...) then I recently recieved my renewal notice for my 83 wagon (the lifted one with the tow truck lights!!!) and .... well.... i DID sell it about a year ago! I emailed the guy that has it, he said he got it transfered... into a Utah license.. maybe they dont clear up on the WA end if its not done right? anyways... good luck figuring things out

amazing what a little bit of silicone (to reglue manifold gaskets to stop vaccume leaks) and stripping down ALL the emissions hardware can do woohoo! so whens the next hatch patrol /or/ street meet?

well, my car is ready for at least a show... the 4wd system is still being repaired.... (unless I take XT) but the pepperdock sounds like a lot of fun! also, I work on thursday, friday, saturday and mondays.. till about 6pm, so it would have to be in the evenings or on my days off... just let me know!

figure out whats new? http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo36/DSCN2583 I also replaced the tranny ... again.... but now it runs a lil better! but now I need to get some matching tires, so I can reinstall the rear axle (mismatched tires caused 4wd to jam, and break! :madder: so here is a preview of whats to come!

howabout a pic of the engine as a whole? maybe we can see if the whole thing looks different...

well, i have a few shortblocks (ea81) and I would like to be able to use them again.. but they each have some sort of issue..(blowby, bad bearings) i am guessing that some of these are fixable, but I would like to get an idea on how much it would be to have these remaned (new bearings, seals, rings and cleaned up....) CCR? anyone else? shops? just looking for a good deal/reliable rebuild...

well, after my test run yesterday, doing some urban offroading.... the tranny decided it did not agree with my linkage anymore.... I pushed the lever down to remove it from 4wd Lo, and it went all the way down to the console, but it did not disengage 4wd, so I tried the back up and also the gravel trick,and then later, even the jack up the back of the car and release the tension trick, but the lever is now jammed against the console, and to make it worse, i looked under the car, and it seems to have broken somewhere at the point at which it goes into the car, it is now leaking gear oil from the 4wd selector lever where it goes into the tranny.... oh well i guess... the tranny never shifted well ever sence I got it, so its time for a new one! in the mean time, i need to go remove a rear axle so that I can drive on pavement till i can get it fixed anyone have a known GOOD 5spd d/r 3.9 laying around I could barter for???? please??? (i have some pugs, or other parts too)

well, after looking... its the oil pump.. specifically the sender- anyone have a DL style ea81 pump or senders (kind for the idiot light) and the plug (for the guage sender hole) and now you need to run a wire from the yellow-black wire to the oil sender, and the yellow-green wire to the temp guage on the manifold

I would think that the vacuume leaks had to do with failing... although, strangely enough, mine passed with a huge vac. leak.... so..? did you run it on the freeway first? (get it hot enough to lite up the cat, and the rest of the motor as well?)

could we wire it to the coil somehow? or does that not have the right signal?

Just a thought, but could we possibly have a stereo (in our subarus of course) compitition at some point during the show? or is there going to be some sort of noise ordinance that we will need to follow? I was just wondering, cause as some of you know, I have a bit of a stereo in my wagon and I have gotten a peek at what some fellow USMB'ers (local friends) are cramming into their subarus and it looks like there will be some comparing at the audio level! maybe have -loudness (bass), -clarity (can you hear it nice and clear? or just base!), and the -installation job (are there wires all over the floor and duct tape holding the deck to the dash? or is it a factory looking job?)

that sounds good to me too lol, you would be so much better off with using the rear discs anyways, and they are soo much easier to work on than the drums! btw, it will be around 30 bucks or so for what you need at pap for rear discs I have my discs, but I havent been able to get around to putting them on.... howabout we have a brake day?

hey, Carl and I could both make a trip out to Sammish together... I have been meaning to pay a visit to Corky as well- and it appears that there is another member to meet out there too!

reasons your car could have high oil pressure- blowby from the rings- you can verify this by seeing if oil or stuff "putts" out of the oil filler neck when the motor is running and the cap off. if it is to high, it could ruin your main seals... otherwise, it could be too thick of oil, and it is not flowing thru to the hydraulic lifters. you can also try adding some Magic Marvel Mystery Oil into your engine oil (per directions on the bottle) it will help clean out the oil passages and make it run quieter. I should know, I put it in my impreza 'cause it made the same tapping noise when it was cold... I added that stuff, and it went away before the next oil change. recommended oil to use- Castrol 10W30. I use it exclusively on all subarus and have had no problems. (and thats what we use in the oil change shop at Carter Subaru) I am not sure about your timing setting.. I know that carbed ea81 should be at 8deg BTDC and turbo at 25 BTDC but not sure about ea82 SPFI- the power issue- you have a 3AT, with a SPFI ea82. I have driven such a beast, and I know from experience, the "lack of power" comes from both the spfi (if not tuned just right, it sucks) and the AT.... the 3AT has earned its name "slushomatic" for a good reason! for those who care, daves XT vrs my XT turbo, he has a MPFI with a spider intake and a FWD-4EAT Heavier tranny!) and my XT turbo with a 5spd 4wd, was just a little slower on the highway head to head! and also from what I heard, the XT is the heaviest of the GL bodies... (just what I have heard.. I still want to get a scale and measure) and, yes there should only be one cat. at the Y pipe... the other thing that most non-subaru people mistake for a cat, is the resonator... check to see if your exhaust is rubbing on the car, mine is on my wagon and it makes weird noises like you discribe...

ANYWAYS! yes, stop whining about everything.... if it helps, I actually took pictures of one mf my setups.... (ea81) but close enough to ea82, it might help you out or if this helps- hook one hose up to drivers side crank case breather to the PCV valve. hook another hose to the passenger side breather, and route that hose to the airbox (into the air filter box) see pics- http://usmb.net/gallery/album159 if your local, you could come find me and I can just show you in person how to do it.... (either at home, or at my work) pm me for details

GD... again.. matt is a newbie, and he did admit that in the post! so let him post without contradiction! (after all, he DID do the conversion on his own car) but... there are many ways to do what you want, and how much you can spend or save doing it.. it all depends on how you want your car to end up in the end. so far each way that has been listed will work, but it will be different results for each setup (performance, installation, and price) so now its my turn to tell you what I did- I have a 1980 GL-1600 wagon, with a ea81. I used an ea81 4wd (large) flywheel, with a aftermarket clutch kit (listed in the schucks computer as a kit for an 88 turbo ea82 4wd wagon, basically an ea82 turbo clutch kit) disc, pressure plate and throwout bearing out of the same kit. (kit price for me was ~$250 with a lifetime warrenty) I have a ea82 5spd D/R from an unknown year, with the "kit" that Jerry made, which makes the upper linkage inside the car fit like it was stock. (kit= $100) the driveshaft is the driveshaft that was in my wagon to begin with, which I took to Jerry and he takes it to a shop in Yakima, where they lengthen it, and make it servicable (new grease type yolks) and painted black for $165 total! as for engine removal, it is not that hard once your in there.. there are 4 bolts total, (2 studs, and 2 bolts) that hold the motor to the tranny. 2 nuts hold the engine mounts to the crossmember. 4 exhaust studs w/nuts misc wires and hoses between the motor and car. once those are disconnected, the motor should be removable by whatever meathod you can do. my personal preference is to use a cherry picker, with a chain- and a jack under the tranny to make it easier... but at the junkyard, my friends can remove a complete ea81 by hand (2 of us lifting by the asv pipes or heads) in 30 mins.... so read over the posts, look at your engine before ripping it out... and decide what what will work for you the best... like- do you want nice parts, for a bit more money, or do you want to use used parts, and mokey with it till it works (the 2 piece driveshaft i wouldnt reccomend personally but it can work if done right) and save some money. or mix-n-match Qman is the guy to listen to in my opinion, he has been doing things like this for longer than most of us have been members (heck, probably before the board even came to be!) good luck with your decisions and actions

I am wondering if there is any possible way to search or locate in some way, my old car(s) that I have owned.. most specifically, my 1970 360 sambar van!! (the flaming twinky) if ANYONE has seen it or has a lead on it, let me know!!! if there isnt a way that I can buy it back, then I would at least like to know of its condition/location! last I heard it is either in the local washington area, or down near portland.... here is a pic... http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo36/biglittle360s I want it back!!!!!! (I didnt sell it, my dad did! back in '99)

goodness gracious, great balls of fire! (if you do, hope that there is a fire truck and a Harborview heli standing by lol)

I am fresh out of adaptor plates, but I have a good selection of ea81 manifolds.... just let me know what your looking to do-

hmm... i dont think its a wives tale, considering I have lost 2 radiators to that stuff.... and it DIDNT plug the heater core (the heater core just kept pissing) just what i have seen anyways.... the soldering idea sounds good, as long as you dont care about keeping it all original (but i guess you could just hide it with gluing the plastic back in there

I have looked at gen1 and gen2 before, and I ahve done many-a-gen2 brakes... yes, it is a dumb design (which is why they went to the standard "press-in" pistons on the legacy and newer cars... the gen1 and gen2 calipers are ONLY screw in, you cannot squish them in like a chevy caliper, trust me, i have done the front brakes on my chevy van before too... there is a tool that schucks (or other various parts stores i assume) sell- its a little cube shaped thing, and it has pegs on it and a 3/8" hole in the middle for attaching a breaker bar or ratchet. use this tool to retract the caliper (screw it back in as if it was a bolt) and yes, opening the bleeder valve makes it a lot eaiser! do it this way and this way only (i have tried the other ways too, and have ended up with bandages wrapped around my hands and a car that had no brakes for a while!) and remember to grease the slider bolts and the anti rattle clips on the pads!!!! (or they will seize up like your old brakes)

why not use a standard compression block, and use a turbo that has had the pressure reduced? (rather than modding the block down in compression, lower the input pressure) for that matter, how do you intend on getting F/I stuff on a ea71? last time I checked, the ea81 and ea71 manifold length is slightly different... but like miles said, the fat case later modles might be the right size