2000outback

I read on here that that additve is suppose to fix the delayed forward engagement problem.No it doesn't leak.The tires are all the same size and pressure.

There are 280,000 kms on the car.It does grab but it is a little delayed though.I am going to change the tranny fluid soon and add some of that K & W industries stop leak trans additive soon as it also have the delayed forward engagement issue as well.Oh well.Maybe it's time for a new one.

First off I'm not sure how the AWD system on this car works so I didn't know how to title this thread.I't a 2000 Outback and when the roads are slippery and you go to take off/accelerate the tires start to slip and then you hear or feel a clunk and then the tires grab and start to grip.Any thoughts?

It's getting close to the time to replace my wifes 2000 Outback.She has loved the car so much she wants another one.Not being overly wealthy we by used.I have found a couple of low mileage 2005 ish OBW XT.My question is does the turbo compromise the great reliabilty of the 2.5 engine?Also is there a big difference in gas mileage?

What is the best route for contacted Subaru to tell them I have the same problem on my Outback.

The ball joint ripped the metal and pulled out.

Anyone tried this. http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=29&catid=9&loc=show&headTitle=%20-%20Lucas%20Transmission%20Fix

Anyone know where to get this stuff in Ontario,Canada?

Anyone else had trouble with the lower mounting stud on the car body for the liftgate prop rods pulling out of the metal?Is there an easy fix?

So nobody has heard of a different timing belt for this application?

What it actually says is "the right side idler bearing may be manufactured with an inner flange(guide).This inner flange is redundant and is not needed where there is already an inner and outer flange efecting the application."The new one is a "NON-FLANGED BEARING"

I just bought a timing belt kit on Ebay and when I got it there is a warning stating that Subaru used two different belts from 2000 up and that this one might not be right.Before I bought this I had called the local Car Quest Auto Parts store a got a price from them and they never mentioned a choice of belts.Does anyone know what this is about? Also there is a warning about this new idler not being flanged.What's that about? Help!!I have an appointment for next week to have this installed.

I guess my question should have read ,does anyone have a problem with the quality of the parts in this kit?

What do you think of this kit.It is now time to do the belt so I was thinking of this kit plus the seals and waterpump.

Well,I've washed it twice and no water problems so I think it's fixed. Thanks to everyone for all your help!

Well I changed it today.What I found when I took the old one out was not what was descibed here.It was put together the same as the used one I bought .It had foam tape around the tailight housing the got pinched between the liftgate sheetmetal and the plastic of the housing..Also I noticed the around the taillight housing was a raised ridge of plastic on which the foam tape was placed.The only reason I mention this was in another thread I read on here about this someone said they placed two rows of butyl tape side by side around each side of the tailight housing and on both of mine that would have been impossible. So I put a layer of tape around each housing on the plastic ridge I descibed and one around each hole in the sheetmetal on the liftgate so that they atually met and formed the seal.It tighten up well and when I looked through the liftgate out towards the housing it looked as if it was well sealed.I hope this worked.

Okay.Thanks everyone.I'm going to try to replace it this weekend.Mine has about 7 or more studs holding it on.The nice part is I'm not to worried about the one I'm taking off as I have a new one to go back on.

I don't mean tio be a pain in the butt but did yours have this foam tape on it.Is that what you took off and replaced with butyl tape?

So what stops the water from getting into the housing.I thought the lens would have to be resealed to the black backing piece.I don't have the old one off yet but this new one I bought has no residue on it from any sealant.It does have some foam gasket material around the ends where the actual lights are.The good news is all of the mounting studs are all there.

I just did a search on this forum and now I'm even more confused.Where is the sealant that fails and allows water in?The part I have is in one piece and has a back part that houses the light sockets and a front piece that the lights shine through.Do these pieces come apart and you reseal between them our do you reseal this whole thing to the liftgate?

I just bought a used rear light panel for the back of my Outback as mine is cracked and leaking.I got the whole panel with the sockets and wiring.I want to reseal it before I install it.What is the best/easiest method for removing the lens side of the unit?

What about the water pump.Can you get them aftermarket? So if I want to get the seals I need i ask for cam seals and o-rings and a crankshaft/oil pump seal.Do i get them from Subaru or can you get them aftermarket as well?

I am going to get the timing belt done on my Soob and I found this kit on Ebay.Is this a good price for these parts.I know to do the water pump at the same time so I'll have to buy it separately..Are there any other seals or gaskets I will need to have the job done? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230231663777&category=33625&sspagename=DCP:RV:GI

My 2000 Outback has a clunking sound coming mainly front the passenger side front end when going over even a slight bump .When I worked at a Chrysler store this was generally caused by worn out sway bar bushing.What do you think?

Do I need special tools to aim the headlights on my 2000 Outback.I want to set them to shine up a little higher.