RedRX

How did you tweak it? On a rolling road or by trial and error? I ask because my same era RX (with mods) also does this sometimes at high revs (ditto fuel cut disabled)

Had another play today. Best run was 9.2 sec for 0-60. Conservative launch (since I am crap at it and the tires are crap too), so little wheelspin hence a boggy take-off. Not bad for a car that handled sandy beach-dune tracks that stopped some Forresters.

I think more aggressive cams do more for older engines (ie pre- 16 valves etc) due to the greater compromises made for economy and drivability. Not many newer engines can be improved much with cams. From whats been posted here the EA82T benefits. Mine has 30-70/70-30 durations but I have never driven a stock RX nor is my engine well set up yet (ignition or fuel issues - not sure. Sometimes runs sweet, othertimes crap)

GTech just arrived in post so had a quick play in the RX. Uncertain of all mods to engine (inherited it sort of), but has wierd hi-tensile socketted head bolts, and 30-70/70-30 cams (had covers off to do lifters once). Only 3 runs pulling onto a highway from the verge and all crap launches trying to offset wheelspin (in front-wheel-drive) with the motor bogging down. Best 2 were about 9.7 sec for 0-60, not enough room for the 1/4 which would be more appropriate for a turbo. Anyone else posting results from this gadget?

Actually hard corner issues are dealt with by dry sump systems. Catch cans are designed to separate/catch oil vented by crank ventilation system and stop oil vapour being sucked into the turbo (oil droplets can lead to detonation).

I long ago added another ground to the other side of the engine. Anywhere else I should do so to assist with the ignition system?

The only thing is I would have thought a bad alternator would lead to flat battery issues - which has never happened in nearly 2 years.

I have noticed that the engine runs much less smoothly (and more liable to stall) when the headlights are on - or even sometimes the fan. I can understand the drain on the alternator affecting idle speed due to loading but rougher running at higher RPMS while driving? Any educated guesses or experience.

GTech just arrived in post so had a quick play in the RX. Uncertain of all mods to engine (inherited it sort of), but has wierd hi-tensile socketted head bolts, and 30-70/70-30 cams (had covers off to do lifters once). Only 3 runs pulling onto a highway from the verge and all crap launches trying to offset wheelspin (in front-wheel-drive) with the motor bogging down. Best 2 were about 9.7 sec for 0-60, not enough room for the 1/4 which would be more appropriate for a turbo.

Have an engine in my RX with a semi-unknown history. Ex-rally kinda - then some-one else had a tweak and rebuild but it sat on the bench. Before fitting had HUGE custom fuel rails and big injectors. Valve covers off show big round 30-70/70-30 cams (apparantly pretty aggressive - i have to idle about 1200rpm) and big black hi-tensile socketted head bolts rather than standard. OK - the question. Tested compression during some lifter issues and have found low all round comps (ie 70-80) but pretty damn even. Now the engine does NOT blow smoke (oil use strictly thru damn lower engine leaks) and from the cleanliness on the inside has been pulled apart not so long ago. Could this be deliberately low compression in order to run higher boost? As far as drivability she is a dog off the line (unless u rev and drop it and spin wheels for 1st and 2nd) but cams and boosts up at 2500rpm and kicks u back (and sometimes starts the wheels spinning again) Having said all that took her on a club day down the beach and hot soft sandy tracks (on a 38 degree C day!), UNLIFTED mind, and she climbed everything including some slopes that stopped 2.5lForresters and the like! Never above halfway on the temp either. Only bogged down once on the beach. So my little show-pony can hack the pace off-road too, SWEEEEET!

Hell if I know what exactly was done to the motor - all I know is that little happens before 2500 rpm and its a dog right off idle. High tensile socketted bolts hold the heads on (aparantly forged pistons but I cant vouch for that). The engine was built up for a local Subi rally drivers son to practise with before finding its way into my car. All ancillaries are standard to bring it back to road spec for registration purposes (ie removed huge fuel rails and oversize injectors). But hey, I'm not claiming i can clean up any old car - just one particular factual event that surprised the hell outa me (and HE was sure hovering about to get a surreptitious look at my bog-standard exterior). Maybe he missed a change and bogged down....

Had a wet road traffic duel the other day. Took off around a corner with a riced WRX on my tail (u know - gauges, BOV, fart-can exhaust). 1st set of lights he is in front of me and takes off on the green - I floor it (in 2WD) and spin on 1st - then 2nd - then 3rd gear before i start to move. He's miles ahead...hehe. Next set of lights and i slip into low 4WD - alongside this time. Launch..... only when I back off at 80 does he come past (BOV hissing away). I guess i caught him by surprise. RedRX - 86 RX turbo, low-comp rally built motor with 30/70 cams, running 10psi with no IC (at pres)

BTW - any comments on RX body-stiffness? I notice all the metalwork box-sections across the parcel-shelf in the boot and imagine the difference compared to a wagon where all that is missing. dang, its good to have her back!!!!!

Okay - after pulling the inlet manifold and seeing (via plug-holes and inlet ports) valves look to be ok just lots of crud on valve stems. Sprayed Subaru Upper Cylinder cleaner direct onto valves and wow - 1st hand view of this stuff working - just disolves away. Did another compression test with decent SCREW-IN tester (tip there for accurate tests) and got an even 100 psi in all cylinders cold. I think this engine has been built low comp for high boost in rally work - they are low but even. Reused inlet gaskets as near new with just a smear of Ultra-grey. Bolted back together (with no bolts left over!) - noticed MISSING engine mount to cross-member nuts!!!!. Found high-tensile nuts to fit and bolted the sucker in. Anyways running 10psi with no pinging or detonation in 33 degrees heat (gotta find a way to get an intercooler without a bonnet scoop) and she does get up and boogie after 2500rpm. Not to mention the pleasure of driving her again with the 2.25 cat-back exhaust. Cheap - with a (cough cough) Holden straight thru muffler (no chrome fart-can here) sounds like a worked WRX and has the sweatest growl on the overrun. Seems to be better anyways - not too bad a flat-spot (just that from the 30-70/70-30 cams). No sign of porting work BTW but i guess thats kinda redundant on a turbo.

Hey at least be grateful all u gotta do is change the belts and set the timing. NO smashed valves, NO smashed pistons.

30-70/70-30 cam timings - no idea of lift (i didn't put them there). From what i can see thru the plug holes and by hand turning the engine the pistons seem to look like they should (black and a tiny bit crusty - ie no steam cleaning). No HP figures cos not running just now and only really been running on 3 cyl before.

viceversa - not sure since last rebuild. When i got it had huge injectors and fuel pipes, so i guess it was running waaaay rich, which i guess could cause the grunge. I'm hoping it was just grunge.

Well - after pulling the manifold - and dissolving all that carbon and muck on the inlet valves, i got an even 100psi all round (cooold engine - no manifold or plugs). So i am going to risk it and put it back together with my fingers crossed.

What IS blowing unburned fuel out the exhaust a sign of?

Was going to pull heads due to low compression in one cylinder and wierd power fluctuations. Got as far as manifold and fuel rails etc. Once all that stuff was off i could see inlet valves and exhaust (thru spark plug holes). Inlets looked a little clagged in drivers side (turbo side in Aus), exhaust looked fine (had thought burnt exhaust valve). Noted that the low comp/power cylinder inlet port looked a little 'dry' compared to others - sort of 'sooty'. Maybe a clagged inlet valve letting gas thru? Sprayed with Subie Upper Engine Cleaner (holding breath!!!) and watched deposits dissolve (cooooool!). Did another comp test with decent SCREW-IN comp tester and find ALL cylinders same at about 100psi - may be a bit low but was rally motor and maybe had comp lowered to run more boost - i dunno. The when i check manifold i see injectore for that same cylinder looking wierd - ie the litle brass pin was all glittery and seemed funny shape. Pulled injector and sprayed same stuff on it - then elect contact cleaner - NOW looks same as others. Really DONT want to pull heads - think its fixed?

Oil Separator???? Would this be the thing that fails to stop oil finding its way into the manifold, turbo, and cylinders? What is it supposed to do and how?

love the way these threads just dry up....

Europe and Japan did away with pushrods how long ago? Seems only the US/Australian V8s persist with pushrods. Some Aus cars only did away with cart springs (leaf) a few years ago too. An old design Aus car in both 6 and 4 cylinder formats had pushrods and fibre gears that chewed out. Old toyotas had 2 sets of chains for one OHC and they rattled like hell when stretched, with little or no power advantage. Even now Holden (GMH) are contemplating a 3 valve head using pushrods (using another horizontal pushrod!) to improve efficency and KEEP COSTS DOWN. Ferrari, Maserati, Fiat, Alfa Romeo, Lamboughini, even Jaguar used OHC for increased efficiency - even the old Bentleys and Stutz Bearcat used OHC for MORE POWER per cubic inch. Dont compare a 400ci with a 1.8 litre! Old tech EA82 may not be the ultimate in efficency but the flat 4 is inherently revable due to layout and oversquare design so OHC is natural progression. ANY new OHC engine has cam belt durability issues - they are just NEWER - we are talking about engines that are HOW OLD here? All new Hondas, Toyotas, NIssans etc have change intervals of what.....? My old diesel toyota Hilux needs a new belt every 100, 000km and it revs to 4000rpm and makes a puppies fart of HP. As someone mentioned earlier - at least if the belt breaks at the worst u have to change it - i dont need to overhaul the damn engine!

Wow - dj72 predicted 140hp. Which mods seem to give best bang for the bucks on the EA82Ts - headwork and cams? - then wind up the boost?

dj72 - no way am i gonna wade into the veracity debate (besides - i think dyno runs are kinda like benchmark programs on computers - who cares about the numbers if it goes like a shower of sh*t), but i am real curious about yr progress as my moter sounds a lot like yrs except for the IC (hence I dont run over 10psi) It was originally built up by mechanics from an official Subaru rally team in Aus, before finding its way to my car, and played with a bit buy someone else a while but not really run much since last rebuild. Apparantly has forged pistons (cant vouch for this - not seen em), head work (running Gen 3 heads at least - seen no deeper), has the 30-70 70-30 cams as mentioned (seen these), high-tensile socketted head bolts (seen these - look NOTHING like standard). Stuff had to be removed before going into my car to keep it legal for inspection - HUGE fuel rails like towel rails, plugged up manifold, oversize injectors. I think it was built to run massive boost and survive - my requirements much more modest. Unfortunatley it seems to have a burned/leaking valve or busted valve spring so with such low compression in one cylinder and mixtures and vacuum all mucked up I cant get it to run right - after i fix it......