Sirlono

Like other have mentioned, try the battery first. If that doesn't work, the issue may be with the battery terminals. I've opened mine up and have noticed that the battery terminals (the prongs that secure the battery holder to the circuit board) come loose after years of abuse. I've resoldered each of my remotes and they now work fine. Be careful not to get too much heat into the board - you just want enough to get the solder good and melted. Daniel

I would replace the wheel bearing completely if you're going to get it to the point where you're reaplcing seals. I had a front wheel bearing go out on me at 110k and reaplced both sides as a precautionary measure. The bearing itself isn't that expensive and should be easy to access with the work you're doing. Good luck.

Thanks for your help. I never cease to be impressed by the simplicity of working on Subies.

- transmission noise when clutch pedal up. I've been advised this is probably the input shaft bearing. A mechanic said (20k ago) that this might go away eventually as there are two bearings ... is it better to wait until it breaks and get another transmission, or can/should this bearing reasonably be changed sooner? Thanks in advance for any advice. Douglas I think that the noise you're describing is the throwout bearing. Is it a whistle/chirping noise when you have the clutch engaged? I had mine go bad and decided to fix it along with replacing the clutch. If you fix it make sure that you buy new retaining clips to hold the bearing properly on the tranny input. Daniel

bump - I edited my post with some new questions. thanks for the links. Daniel

New question: I'm looking to do a front wheel bearing swap this weekend and curious about repacking the new bearings. Do the bearings need to be pulled apart (remove the inner race and bearing from the outer race) or is there a bearing packer for this type? The replacement bearing I have is similar to the one shown here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=787070 Also, on first look, there is no indicator as to which way the new bearing goes on. Any leads here? Thanks for all your help. Daniel

I have a 99 OBW with the stock player and it plays burned cd's just fine. it would be a nice upgrade to the 6-disc changer though. Dan

Here's the full clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ci_p6ulyTRg Just ridiculous driving.

Nathan, I believe you are right. Subaru did a good job of using brackets of different sorts on all of the transmission bolt nuts. I'm back and running now. Thank you so much. Dan

Well, I was able to get the engine out, clutch in, and engine back in and mounted. Unfortunately, I didn't take enough pictures, or at least enough quality ones. I have two brackets (pictured here) that I can't find a home for. Any help on either of these? I also didn't take a picture of where the ground connection is on the block. I appreciate your help. P.S. - This is on a 99 OBW, EJ25 engine Dan

Thanks for the link - that was pretty resourceful. It seems excessive to pull the intake off though - I only need to access the clutch. Is it necessary to do that to access pick points for the engine hoist?

I have a 99 OBW and am finally motivated to swap out the clutch this weekend. I'm going to pull the engine to get at the clutch; I've searched for some detailed process of pulling an engine but haven't found anything. If anyone can offer some help I'd appreciate it. I think I have most of the details covered but want to be sure I get everything necessary disconnected. A few specific questions: Will I be able to pull the engine with the hood on? Will/should I have to drain the oil if I'm pulling the engine and changing the rear main seal? Is there a good method of locking the flywheel without the Subaru tool? Thanks everyone, Dan

I need to get some clutch work done on my Outback and am looking for a local mechanic. I'd prefer to find someone on the Peninsula or in the South Bay (I'm in Mountain View). I searched around a bit on here but didn't find too much info. Thanks everyone. Dan

Thanks for all of your help. This will save me money on tools and unnecessary machining. Dan

So what I'm understanding is that when changing my brakes, if I'm not feeling any vibration under braking, then the only reason I would need to change the rotors is if they're too thin?? Dan