nvexplorer

My "new" GL wagon had a very stiff clutch with little play until I replaced the cable, so +1 for the cable replacement first. Once classes start up again we'll have to go do some wrenching or wheeling! I've got an engine stand and hoist if you need to borrow them. They might even fit in your BRAT. Good luck with the brakes. I'll be doing the rears as well and hopefully will go with rear disk setup if possible.

I've got the Audiovox CCS-100 sitting right here waiting to be installed. Now I just need to find time to install it as I'm outta town all week for work and have way too much to get done in 2 days as it is. Once school starts I'll have lots more time, kinda odd thing to say but true. Install looks easy though. Hardest part is getting the harness through the firewall. If you go this route let me know how it went and I'll do the same if I start or finish it.

I guess I jumped the gun on posting, but maybe it'll be useful for someone else...The VSS for the 92 Loyale, but same for other EA82's I'd imagine, is 4000 Pulses Per Mile. Thats the same PPM as the 92 Justy, XT6, 92 and 93 Legacy, and 93/94 Impreza.

I'm trying to find out how many pulses per mile the VSS on an 87 GL does. Can somebody point me to some link or page I missed in my searching or tell me how to find out? I'm sure I could connect my DMM to it and slowly cruise for a quarter mile or some other known distance and count the pulses, but there must be someone who knows or a better way to do it. Thanks! Jack

I just smogged my 87 with 188K. Didn't change the air filter or the oil. Just new plugs and wires and it passed cleaner than my 93 used to with the roughly the same miles. Nevada is less strict than California by a long shot, but these cars usually do pretty well. Our 89 toyota camry was horrible when it came to smog and sometimes just vacuuming out the air box was enough to make it pass. A new air filter is also a good idea.

I have one of the tools to rotate the piston back into the caliper, but its almost easier to use a large pair of flat nose pliers (or at least wide nose) to turn it. Channel locks have worked well for me in the past along with vice grips. I'd say give me a call this weekend if you need help but I'm pulling and resealing the engine on my new 87 wagon.

Don't think I'll make it to WCSS. Work keeps me out all week and then I'm home for the weekends. Kinda wears me out. At least I have something to drive now!

Your battery isn't holding enough of a charge to crank the engine is what it sounds like. The rest of the electrical system sounds like its okay if you can roll start it and it still runs fine. Your battery might be dead or is no longer able to hold a charge. Another possibility is that the wire going to the starter has a break in it somewhere so the solenoid will do its job, but then nothing gets to the starter. Good places to start anyway. Good luck!

I haven't been around for a while so here's an update. insurance company still hasn't finalized anything yet, but they offer me about $1800 and I keep the car. I also just became the new owner of 87 GL wagon. Got that for $250 running and driveable. Its a little thrashed though. Skid plate and oil pan are dented pretty good and the drivers side exhaust isn't attached. One of the stud holes is totally busted, but it might have enough threads to get a little torque on it and the Y pipe isn't sitting flush with the manifold so it probably didn't even have the second stud when it hit the rock or whatever. In any case I plan on swapping out all the electronics from the loyale into the GL and pulling, resealing, and any other repairs needed the Loyale engine (oil comes from punctured oil filter) and putting it into the GL. Both are FI and I'll have to swap the senders so analog dash will still work, but thats no problem. It sure is nice having the cargo and map lights and the d/r 4wd, assuming it works. Haven't finished putting the loyale Y pipe onto the GL so haven't gotten to take it for an offroad test yet. Wouldn't want to melt the timing belt covers or anything. Hopefully I'll have it registered and everything by this Friday or Saturday along with pics since I'm outta town every weekday for work. Maybe I'll even be able to buzz around with you Reno guys soon!

I'll definitely start looking around here to find out what others would go for. Thanks for the comments , ideas, and support!

After a week without a car I called his insurance again and got things rolling. They were able to contact him and he admitted that he was at fault! Yay for me, but the adjuster said they are most definitely going to total my car. I just hope they give me a resonable amount for it and then don't try to rip me off if I try to get it back. In any case I'll find out tomorrow how much they'll give me for it!

Last time I redlined my Loyale the crankshaft pulley came off...Shouldn't do it again, although now my Loyale's gonna be totaled. Engine still will work with a new oil filter though!

It was the intersection of Rock and I-80. I was going North and he was coming South and going onto 80 east. Thanks for all the replies.

My Loyale got bashed up pretty bad today. The short story is that a guy made a left hand turn in front of me and here's the results... Here's what she used to look like There wasn't much visible damage to the Saturn Ion...My poor subie was bleeding antifreeze and oil. There's a possibility that the traffic lights were giving him the green arrow and me the green light, so the insurance companies are going to have fun with this one. Does it look worth repairing or should I start looking for a new one?

Solid glass is more of a plastic than a liquid. It just takes forever for it to deform, but let it sit for a few years and it will deform. Check out an extremely old house. The window panes will be thicker at the bottom than the top, even though they were originally the same thickness throughout when installed. In any case your glass jar should do just fine.

Have you checked the hoses going to the heater core? They go right up to the firewall and might have spung a leak. My 4wd (93 Loyale) used to clunk and rumble until I put a new set of tires on all the way around. When I got her, she had different tires on the front and rear and the difference was enough to cause torque bind. Just make sure you have the same sized tires on the front and rear with close to the same amount of wear and you should be fine.

I'm glad that carb worked for ya. Ever figure out what that electrical connection was for? I sure didn't. Couldn't find anything under the dash that it would plug into. Maybe thats for the choke?

It sounds like your diagnostic wires are connected. I'm not sure where they would be on your car, but my 93 loyale has them located under the hood against the drivers side firewall. There's two white connectors and two green ones. The green ones put it in D check mode, which disables the computer timing advance and starts the solenoids clicking on and off. The white connectors pull any codes from your computer, which can be read by the blinking light on the computer. There is a write up on that in the USRM. Connecting both sets at the same time is supposed to clear the codes from the ecu. If the green connectors are connected, disconnect them. This should hopefully fix the sputtering too.

Thats a shame. I had to switch the center and right (Facing the front of the car) wires on the connectors and there are three metal tabs that keep the 9004 bulb in place, but only the top one matches up with the 9007 bulb. I cut the two tabs as far down as I could then started at them with a little file. The filing doesn't take too long and the bulb still fits in tight and secure with just the one tab and the locking ring. Switching the wires was a cut, splice, and solder job that is a little bit of a pain just because you don't have much wire to work with unless you feel like undoing a lot of the tape wrapping. You might be able to use connectors instead of splicing, but I do advise against just splicing and taping and hoping that they don't come appart while you're driving down the road. The difference between the bulbs are: filament orientation, the high beam and ground are switched when comparing to the 9004's, 9004 high/low is 65/45 watts and 9007 high/low is 65/55 watts and obviously upgrading to a brighter light helped greatly. I hope this helps.

I upgraded my Loyale with some Sylvania 9007's. Check the thread out here I have my lights aimed as low as possible and they still illuminate further and wider than the 9004 bulbs. High beams are awesome too! You just have to switch two of the wires and get rid of a couple metal tabs inside the lense backing. Gives you another option anyway.

I did the same thing before work one night. Came back out and the lights were on and I figured that it was the switch since I'd been playing with it on the way to work. I've left lights on for 6+ hours and not killed the battery though, including some driving lights I installed. Gotta love a Subaru!

The brake cleaner shouldn't have ruined the MAF. I used brake cleaner on mine probably a month or more ago and its still doing fine. When my 93 Loyale is cold it will hesitate until the RPM's are above 3000 and then it does just fine. I've heard that replacing the O2 sensor helped greatly with the hesitation. The oil in the intake is most likely coming from your PCV system. Its not hard to check it or replace the valve. I forget offhand where it is exactly, but it screws into the intake somewhere and has a tube coming out of it that T's to the valve cover areas. You might also want to check the Throttle position sensor. I've heard of them going bad from time to time. Welcome to the board!

Yes must be the clutch switch I'm talking about. The one that will keep the starter from engaging if the clutch pedal isn't depressed.

For the past couple days I've noticed that sometimes I have to push the clutch pedal extra hard to get the starter to crank and tonight it finally woulnd't even click. I checked the connections at the battery and the starter and all are good. I'm pretty positive that it is the neutral safety switch. Is it just out of adjustment or failing? Since this is my daily driver I need it to start everytime I turn the key to start, so what should I do? Try to repair the switch, readjust it, or bypass it?

I get 40 mpg consistently between Carson City, Nv and Markleeville, Ca. Thats also the only drive that I do get that kind of mileage. About 80 miles round trip. I'm not sure what the elevation change is, but it does take me into the Sierra Nevadas.