nvexplorer

Around here the motorcyclists wave at each other. It's funny to watch...even when they're driving opposite directions on the highway.

Not exactly a new gen guy, but here's a good time to have chains...driving my Loyale on mountain roads covered with packed snow and an iced up corner. Slid right into the side of the mountain and couldn't force my way back onto the road forward or backward. Tried wood under wheels and still didn't work and I remembered I had a set of chains with me. Couldn't get to the passenger wheels, but I did manage to get them on the front and rear drivers side tires. Tried only front and didn't work. Chains on both pulled me right out and I got outta there. Moral: It's better to have chains and not use them then to get stuck miles away from anyone and not have them, even if you only need them for a few feet.

Almost the same but not quite. My Speedometer always sticks a little. If I hold the speed steady for long enough it will eventually creep its way up to it, and decelerating it takes a while to return to 0

I always thought that the push button solenoids worked like this: When 4wd not engaged vacuum is supplied to one solenoid and when 4wd is engaged it only has vacuum to the other solenoid. If this is the case then one line will always have vacuum so with the car running he should be able to unplug the lines and note which one has vacuum and where it came from and plug it into the other one. Sound about right?

If you have more room to adjust it out, yes you should be able to loosen it more until it releases where you want. I have mine set so it releases right before the clutch starts to drag, this way if I want the HH to stop holding the car I just let the clutch out a bit but it still doesn't move the car by means of engine power.

If the rear end is sitting higher than the front I'd tend to think that the angle would change relative to the road, but not to the car itself, so I also see what you mean, but am too tired to reason it out in my head, so I'm going to sleep.

93 Loyale with 176K

I checked out their website and found a couple other bulbs that I would be interested in, so did an inquiry on the 9104's too. The ones I wanted weren't in stock anymore and he quoted me the 9104s at $10.10 each. Possible that its the difference between virginia and nevada, but who knows. Still not bad for an upgrade. Oh and says that the minimum purchase is $50.00.

The cable will slide in and out of the casing. On the dash side the cable just fits into a square hole to make the parts turn. The casing keeps it lined up and in place. If you took the cable out and its not damaged or stretched too far then you can probably lube it and put it back in. I'm not sure which type of lube should be used, but somebody around here must. Partsamerica.com (the actual store said they couldn't order them but I got a new one anyway from their online store) can order them and the cables do have different numbers for a different set of years. The 03295 works for the 85-89 DL, GL, GL-10, 90-94 Loyale, 88 RX, and 86-87 Std. For before 85 there are two different ones, one for automatic one for manual. The manual cable is part# 03244 fits 81-84 Brat, 86-87 Brat, 80-84 DL, GL and Std, 80-82 GLF and apparently also the 84 VW Jetta. It might be that they got away from that retaining collar because it was a pain and the push on type works just fine. I'll check out my 83 hatch when I get a chance.

The speedometer cable is designed just like the one in my Loyale. The cable housing doesn't screw into the dash...it just plugs into it so you should be able to just give it a good yank and it'll come out. I replaced my cable when I did my heater core since I had the dash appart. My speedometer still doesn't work right, but at least it isn't the cable.

Got the smog done today and passed with flying colors. ~176000 miles and still doesn't come close to the limits for HC's or CO%. Not bad for a $500 car.

I read that if the HID setup is not installed at the factory then it is not street legal. http://www.coolbulbs.com/HID_faq.asp near the end of the page. I really don't think that most cops would bother taking the time to check as long as you don't have the lights aimed directly at oncoming traffic.

Need to get my car smogged soon, so I changed the air filter. My Loyale was getting around 26 mpg, which is about normal, but it should be changed anyway. Took the old one out and so much dust came off of it. It would fall off with barely a breeze or a tap. Think it was time to change it? Maybe I'll get closer to 30 mpg now. I love my subaru.

Check the first post in this thread.

Perhaps the wiring between the MAF and ECU isn't continuous. At least it's worth a try. I'm sure that it'd be cheaper to rewire than get a new MAF, unless it is under waranty. Then maybe you could get them to check the wiring to make sure that it actually works this time.

The first major repair I did on my loyale was replacing the water pump after the shaft sheared off leaving the mechanical fan flopping around the water pump not rotating. I also did the T belts, but should have replaced the tensioners and cam seals while i had everything apart. I'm not sure what else can and should be replaced up there. Some say to leave the timing covers off, but I still have mine on.

You can come up here to take a look at how the carb on my 83 hatch is hooked up. I haven't touched the thing since i last started it, so everything should still be in working order. Send a PM if you're interested.

So install the low beam HID and add some more lights for extended vision. Even when i use my brights its hard to see so i added two walmart driving lights and aimed them where the low beams usually are. Provides wider field of vision and increased road visibility. Plus I can turn the driving lights on and off as I wish whether the key is in or not.

That might also be refering to a supercharger. Same concept as a turbo but belt driven instead of exhaust.

Last winter coming home from work one night my subie was plowing snow for the last .2 miles with the bumper. Didn't have any problems stopping or backing down my driveway or pulling out in the morning. Love the Subie!!

I'd love to have cruise control, but I don't want to spend alot on aftermarket setups and from the sounds of it I'd have to find one in a jy and pull the gauge cluster and stick it in my loyale along with the steering wheel and sounds like much more work than its worth. Anyone know a cheaper way to get cruise without just rigging up a hand throttle?

That sounds about right. At least now I know that I'm not the only one that it happens to. What should I lube it with? I think I have some lithium grease around here somewhere. Thanks for the reply.

Hardest part of doing the clutch on my loyale was separating the engine and tranny. I pulled the motor and used a jack under the tranny to line things back up when I dropped the motor back in. Bonus to pulling motor is cleaning the engine bay and might as well give the engine a scrub while its out. The easier way for you sounds like the tranny though.

Thanks for the reply. Its weird that it only does it when it is cold. happened this morning and still wasn't right so I left it signaling left (engine off so wasn't blinking) but later in the day when I came back and put it in the center it locked in place and has been fine. We'll see what happens tomorrow morning with a low of 15 F

Every time my car is really cold my turn signal switch starts acting up. After signaling a turn it normally pops back to the center position, where it isn't signaling right or left, but it totally skips the center position like it isn't there. It moves freely from right signal to the left. Oh yeah, this is on a 93 Loyale. Anybody else have this problem or know how I can fix it? Does it need to be cleaned and lubed and if so any suggestions? Thanks