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Showing results for tags 'EA81'.
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I was thinking about redrilling my hubs to 4x110. I have a couple extra pairs of atv wheels, some are 4x156 and some are 4x110. Do you guys think it'd be anything near safe to try and do? I don't know how I'd go about doing it, I'm assuming in between the original studs? I'm a cheapo, I know, but this is a trail only rig so there isn't a dot worry or a rims blowing up worry, and I want to be able to use atv tires, I mean imagine having some black mamba tires on a brat!
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looking to source a remanufactured ea81, just the short block. Or a good working one that could maybe use a rebuild. Anyone in Seattle area have leads? Also curious if anyone has delt with engineHaus in Gig Harbor?? Thanks for any help!
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As of 7-26-14 I have bought this '83 GL 2Door Coupe locally, I couldn't resist for $900 Some info: EA81 with Hydro Lifters (Possible Calif. Spec emissions) Jatco 3AT FWD 3.700 Mileage: 75,745 The Undercarriage has some rust and a couple holes but is very fixable. Right now the plan is to get it running smooth, go thru it all, change all fluids and leave it be until Safariwagon is finished. Time for photos! When I went to pick it up. Got it home running on 18lbs of pressure on every tire lol. I've always loved the rear of these cars. Does this thing have Calif. Emissions on it? And yes, this is someones half assed attempted at replacing the radiator with one that does not have a built in ATF cooler. This will all be changed. Also working on getting some new Weather stripping. Loads more to come! -Tom
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84 Brat Intermittently Grounding Out?
jmoss5723 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I did some searching, but I didn't come up with much and electrical issues are my biggest weakness. So if I'm asking dumb questions, please enlighten me with your ingenuity. The car: 1984 Brat with a replaced EA81. When the engine was replaced, some "extras" were removed and I definitely have some wires to nowhere. The issue: Recently, when I turn the key to start the car, 1 of 2 things happen. It either: 1. Starts right up. OR 2. The dash lights up, the battery gauge needle hits about 8-10V and the starter doesn't turn. If it starts and I drive it there are no issues. If I roll start it, jump it with the 50 amp setting on my batter charger, or jump it from another vehicle there are no issues running it and driving it. Once it is running the needle sits just above 12V and everything is great. I got my battery tested. It is supposedly fine. It seems that no matter what, if I drive the car then shut it off, it always starts back up if I try within a few minutes. The questions: Is my starting circuit grounding somewhere intermittently and killing my battery? I'm assuming an intermittent short to ground because sometimes the battery is fine and other times it gets drained very quickly. What should I look for? Edit: I'm not sure if it matters, but the car had been mostly sitting for a year while I worked on it off and on to finish the lift and do some rust repairs to pass inspection. I just started driving it again last week and that is when the issue started. Edited again for grammar. -
The time has finally come for the Ignition Lock to get stuck in my Brat. It was already in a state where the key could be removed in any position and while driving around. Currently it is stuck in the Run position, and can start the car, but will not turn back to shut the car off. Is it possible to remove this lock cylinder? I have a parts GL Brat with a good lock cylinder in it to swap out if so. 1985 Brat Gl (tilt column steering)
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August 9th, 2014 Rosland Park Edina, MN 4300 W 66th St, Edina, MN 55435 What: This meet is open to anyone in the group, feel free to bring friends and family along. This is being held in conjunction with Japanese Nostalgic Car and is open to anyone with a classic Japanese car or interest in classic Japanese cars. We are trying to grow the community here by intermingling between each other and meeting other people with classic Japanese cars, hard to believe that Legacys and SVXs are considered that. Officially a Japanese Nostalgic Car is any Japanese car made 25 years ago, for this purpose it is anything made prior to 1994, so feel free to come visit and show off your classic Japanese machine. Any car will be accepted but if the lot gets overfilled and you have a newer car you will be asked to make room for cars that qualify for collector plates in the state of MN (20 years or older). Location: The meet will be held at the back lot of Rosland park in Edina, Minnesota on Saturday, August, 9th. The meet will officially start at 11 am and end around 4 pm, there are grills for people to grill food, feel free to bring drinks and snacks. This is the same park as the Edina aquatic center, we are meeting in the back lot which is large enough to support 30 cars or so. There is also parking on the street near by and in the main lot, however I doubt it will get that busy. As this is a public park and will be open to the public please arrive on time or even early to guarantee a spot. Please set a good example of how car enthusiasts act, that being said... Now time for the rules: -THERE WILL BE ABSOLUTELY 100% NO TOLERANCE FOR HOONING, REVVING OR BURN OUTS. You will be removed from the event and the Minnesota EF Owners Club if you are a member, If you are on JNC or USMB I will ask the mods to block you. -Listen to the Admins of the show(the list will be growing soon). If we tell you not to do something don't make us tell you again. -No loud music, Edina is known as being nazis about this kind of thing, please set a good example of how car enthusiasts act. -Be respectful. Acting like a jack rump roast will get you kicked out in a hurry. I feel like I don't need to list off what disrespectful activity is but the short list is: parking like an idiot, being rude to others, leaving trash around, etc. -Have fun. This is an event to instigate comradery in our community and bring together people who wouldn't normally talk to each other. Please feel free the comment or PM me about this meet if you have questions. Below in a link to the Facebook event page https://www.facebook.com/events/797013693672574/?ref=notif¬if_t=plan_user_joined -
so I'm just trying to see if this is possible. what i'm thinking about doing to taking a 86 brat and pull the motor and trany. i've found a donor car that i would take the trany, drive line, rear diff, and cv axles out of so i would have stronger parts to hold up better. i figured i would have to get a drive line made to fit the right length. i want to put a ej20 or ej22 motor into it to give it some go. the donor car is a mid 90's legacy. i just want to try and find out what i need to do before i get to deep into this build and get stuck. anything will help out.
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This is a write-up on using the Rear Wiper Arm from a '09-14 Honda Fit. This is a direct bolt on upgrade! Parts Needed: Honda Fit Wiper Arm Part Number: 76720-TF0-003 Wiper Blade: Trico Exact Fit 16B Install Duration: 5 Minutes _____________________________________________________________________________________ First off a new genuine Wiper Arm assembly can be found on Ebay for $23 or less, usually free shipping! Most don't come with a Wiper blade as shown, but most parts houses will have the Trico Exact-Fit 16B which is no longer the J-hook style clip. Now once you have the Wiper Arm, remove your original one by removing the one 10mm nut behind the plastic cover, pull off the old Wiper arm (May need to jiggle as they tend to get stuck on the motor shaft) once off, remove the round plastic dust cover which covers the motor shaft and nut, this part will no longer be needed as the new Wiper arm covers that. You will then want to position the new Wiper arm so the Wiper blade will be Level with the Window Trim/Seal, once adjusted, apply the original 10mm nut and tighten down with mild force, the Shaft will press into the Beveled washer inside the new wiper arm and it will not slip under operation! Install the new Plastic nut cover provided with the Wiper arm and you're finished! The new wiper arm will press harder on the window for a cleaner, consistent wiping path. One of the best upgrades you can do for visibly. Enjoy, -Tom Note: This setup may also work on the EA81 Wagon and Hatchback. -
Went through high water tonight on way home from work. I bailed out of the street into a drive, was idling like a carp out of water, tried to feed it more fuel didn't seem to make it worse but not any better either. After a couple of minutes it died then couldn't get it started again. Thought it was just vapor locked cause it was backfiring through the Weber 32/36 and then through the exhaust sometimes not every time. So I let it sit for 15 minutes before trying again & same thing. I though maybe I'd be better letting it sit for longer like 45 minutes, still no luck coming back through the carb. I looked for vac hoses that may have come off and saw nothing out of place. Do I need to take the carb apart or let it sit over night and see what it does in the morning? Other thoughts?? Thanks for any input in advance. -
These bolts are no longer available from Subaru and I was wondering if anyone had any dimensions so I can order them through other channels. Thanks!
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So I'm in the process of revamping my exhaust. I've taken the ASV brackets off of the exhaust manifold, and I'm going to extend my Y-pipes up to the engine itself without the brackets. I took the old crusty gaskets out, and I'm buying new ones. But all of the gaskets that it seems I can order are just simple rings, whereas the ones that I took off were the shape of the pipe flanges on my Y-pipes. My engine is an EA81 on my '83 BRAT. What kind of gaskets do you guys have at this spot? Will the simple, circular ones work? My whole point of working on the exhaust in the first place was to keep it from leaking right at this spot, so I want something that will hold well.
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So, I was changing the clutch cable on my 2nd Gen Brat when I found out the pedal box was cracked in two places. This was causing the pedal box to give and flex during operation of the clutch cable, which was resulting in poor shifting. I'm having an incredibly hard time sourcing a replacement. Pulling and welding the current one seems like my only other option, and that would probably not be as permanent of a fix as I would like. My first inclination was to check and see if I could use an ea82 pedal box. Has anyone done this?
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Hi, My gyroplane has an EA81 twin carb engine that was overheated to siezure and has now been rebuilt but it runs rough and does not develop the power it should. The rough running does not allow an idle below 1200 RPM as it causes the gearbox to chatter, previously it would idle down to 800 RPM. The engine seems to smooth out as the revs increase but the power is down as the new engine will not rev past 4800 RPM whereas previously it would go to 5400 RPM with the same pitch on the propeller. The engine was 700 hours old before this rebuild with compression significantly lower than has now been achieved. The work done Cylinder heads professionally machined and rebuilt, new valve seats, valves and valve springs Cylinder blocks decked, bored 0.5 oversize. New pistons and rings Pushrods checked for straightness Pistons, rods and crank rebalanced Camshaft checked, it is believed to have been mildly ground in the past but I did not measure it up when I had it out. Reconditioned carburettors with butterfly shafts bored and bushed, Hitachi carbs, float levels correctly set. New sparkplugs, distributor cap and points, points were set with dwell meter. New spark leads were not replaced as they were only 30 hours old. One lead measured high resistance and was replaced. All 5 leads were then exchanged with a set from another engine that is running well without improvement of symptoms. Alternator reconditioned. New oil pump Waterpump approximately 30 hours old. Battery is 30 hours/12months old and in good condition. Engine was rewired approximately 30 hours ago, some was heat damaged and repaired. Spark plugs,coil and points have been replaced yet again in sequence without improvement. Currently cylinder compression ranges from 175 psi to 195 psi. There is no water in the oil or other indication of head gasket issues. Ignition timing is set at 30° BTDC at 3500 RPM, this results in 4°BTDC at 1200 RPM (with vacuum line attached). Distributor has not been rebuilt but timing light gives a very solid and stable visibility of marks on the flywheel up to 4000 rpm, and was not tested any higher. Valve clearances have been checked and rechecked at 0.25mm inlet and 0.35 mm exhaust. I have sprayed carby cleaner liberally around all manifold and vacuum connections looking for a leak without success. I have balanced the carburettors with a vacuum meter. I have disconnected the carburettors one at a time and sealed the air intake forcing each carburettor to be the only carburettor in turn, no change in symptoms. Carburettor idle solenoids were disconnected in turn with a significant deterioration of the idle in both cases. I run the engine on 98 octane fuel with a valve seat protection additive. The engine does not overheat when running. Oil pressure is good. I cannot hear any pinging or knocking but engine is run without a muffler so these would only be heard at low rpm. Is it possible for symptoms to be caused by missaligning the camshaft by one tooth? Would the compression suffer if this error was made? I don't believe this is at all likely as I remember viewing the alignment mark through the large bevelled hole on the crank when reassembling but if somebody knows the symptoms of this error it would save some hair pulling on my part. Otherwise I am devoid of ideas having replaced or swapped out everything I can think of. Any suggestions out there? Cheers and thanks -
Wondering if anybody out there has any kind of dimensions for an EA81 bellhousing? Like the measurements of where it bolts to the back of the engine. Trying to draw up an adapter in Pro-E (CAD program) and cant seem to find any good dimensions to use.
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I have some six lug hubs and drums on wrecked 84 gl. Will both the hubs and drums switch over to a 90 loyal? Thanks! -
Hi all, I noticed a coolant leak and traced it (fortunately) to a coolant bypass hose. I managed to remove it, albeit with trouble as it's buried under spark plug and carb tubes/cables, an alternator (at least it gave me an opportunity to swap the old belt for that!), etc. No store around me carries such a small hose, molded of course. It is so tiny, a generic straight line would kink if bent that tightly I believe. ALSO: I snapped the plastic tube off the part that connects between the hose in question. I need this too! I'll check real quick online, but I could only find the larger bypass hose on parts sites. On the FSM photo, the plastic piece would be between the (right) end of the highlighted hose and the bypass tube. It is absent in the FSM snapshot. The broken plastic stem connects to the bypass tube. Any advice or links would greatly help! ~Please and thanks! -Sam -
Greetings to the group, I've been a 'lurker' for a long time and keep watching the threads about EJ22 updates. I have a 83 EA81 BRat, which I dearly love. It is not a daily driver, but when it is taken out, it is often for a long distance...two or three hundred miles each way. I am planning to do some minor rust removal and paint work; but I just ran across a local 95 Legacy 2.2 4WD manual transmission, with 209K miles, that has some well bent sheet metal. It is being sold as a parts car. It is all there, having just been towed to the owners home after the accident. I have only seen pictures at this point. They are asking $500 for the whole thing. I was not planning on this project, but the opportunity to get a whole donor, close to home, has arrived. As I understand, I will either need to use an adapter plate to retain my 4-spd D/R tranny, or forgo the D/R and use the non D/R 5-speed tranny from the donor chassis. Is this correct, or is there another tranny option I also understand I will need to do a lot of wiring modifications to accommodate the FI computer and different ingition system. The owner says the car does have some minor oil leaks, (with 200+ K on it I'm not surprised) but that it was running just fine prior to the accident. The major damage is to the right front suspension. If it was not for the broken strut and bend lower A-arm, it looks like it could have been driven home. Am I overlooking anything serious? Any major or minor "GOTCHA'S" I am going to look at the car this evening. Thanks for taking the time to read this. Rod J -
Got the weber swap done and car is running. Been driving it for a couple days and it is much quicker in the lower end and a hell of a lot louder idles good and runs smooth other than a sort of "flat spot" when giving it more throttle, almost as if its shorted on fuel or air? I also think the timing could use some adjusting but I can't advance the disty anymore because of a port and hose coming out of the intake manifold, into the block. (This is an EA81 motor with a weber on a EA82 intake manifold). But thinking I can remove and block that hose to get the timing dialed. So my question to the board is; what would you do to this setup to give it just that much more power/response/smoothness? Cap and rotor? Coil? Btw it's a 1982 GL 4x4. Thank you! -
New Market Skills Center is hosting its annual Car Show on MAY 8th! We have decided to mix it up this year and try to have more variety. Rally cars, clean builds, and even wheelers are encouraged to attend! New market is an alternative high school. In addition to the car show we are also having an open house for our programs. If you aren't interested in the school side its totally fine to simply view the cars. Free burgers! Complete a tour book and insistently win a prize from one of many sponsors! If you would like to enter a car please call (360)470-0596 and ask about the car show. This is a student run event. Thank you everyone! https://www.facebook.com/newmarketskillscenteropenhouseandcarshow
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So after finishing up the weber swap and starting to crank it over, it cranked for a while and sounded good, giving it a few tries to get the fuel all through the system, then all the sudden no power anywhere. No lights, nothing. Battery is good. Good connections to the wires coming off the terminals. All the fuses inside the car are good. So I'm stumped a because I don't know much about all the electrical wiring.. What should I check along the wires or fuses?? Thank you for any help
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A few weeks ago I noticed a coolant leak, and tracked it down to an intake manifold gasket -- no problem, just pull the manifold and replace the gasket (or so I thought). I wound up busting a stuck bolt, and had to drill it out, unfortunately I managed to drill through a head mounting stud in the process -- I didn't notice this, however, until I tried to turn the engine over and wound up filling my cylinders with coolant. Now, I need to replace a stud, and probably the head as well -- I put a small divot in the bottom of the thru-hole while drilling through the stud, I assume that it is this combination of busted stud, plus divot, that led to coolant in the cylinder. Does anyone have any advice, or a head (left side, ea81) they can sell me? I'm in Albuquerque, NM
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My CV axle nut on my 85 brat constantly comes loose on the front driver side wheel and makes my brakes grind when I press on them. I have a cotter pin it, its the one that came with them when i purchased the axles. I have no clue whats causing it to come loose or how to fix it. It comes loose every few days. Anybody know why or how i can solve this problem? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/118112-axle-nut-failure-point-reachedat-45mphhelp/?hl=%2Baxle+%2Bcoming+%2Bloose This thread seems to be close to same symptoms of what mines doing, except for the shearing and other fun stuff. i just need this to keep me going for a few more weeks until i can get my other brat running.
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Hi, of so ive been doing work on my 1982 subaru brat like cutting out rust and pulling the front end out since it has been in a front end collision . (carfax needed) lol. So after pulling the frame and paint and such i would like to build the suspension for baja style off roading. I was reading that body lifts limit the amount of down travel so i want to stay away from that. Soooooooo, im pretty sure many of you guys have pondered this idea and i think ive seen a white gl wagon with long travel shocks in the rear but not up front. I know this will be a very involved process and will take a lot of work and everything will have to be custom fabb'ed but still would be a cool idea or possibility. My buddy built his own suzuki samuri using toyota solid axels and was telling my that i could make custom long travel a arms and it would be , also that i could use coilovers up front but how to get more down travel up front? THe rear is east to get the down travel but the front is only like 3 or 4 inches than on jacks. I'm not really looking for a crazy lifted suspension (not body lift) or a down travel of like 12 inches but just more. Would this be remotely possible with the knowledge and custom fabrication or am i just plain crazy . Please post your opinions and yes i have searched this in the search bar but couldn't really find anything about the front other than people just saying there is nothing other than ranchero shocks available. Thanks guys! hopefully i can pull the frame straight then get it ready for rego . hasn't been registered in 8 years and doesnt have the pink slip. Yeah california! haha -
I'm thinking of doing a lift on my Brat (1983, so it's an EA81) and have three questions: 1. Is there anyone that makes a 3" lift kit for EA81? 2. How close can you get the tire to the wheel wells before they will hit once the suspension is compressed? (I measured 15" from hub center to the bottom of the fender. Without doing a lift, if I ran 28" tires, would they hit the wheel wells ever? Would I have to go smaller than 28" tires? In other words, would 1" between the tires and the fenders be enough distance to keep from hitting?) 3. I heard from AKghandi in a different topic that, "On an ea81 you have to drop the subframe when you lift it. Otherwise your cv axles will explode." What's this mean/is it valid?
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I have a good running EA81 subaru engine and a good working 5-speed dual range 4x4 4wd transmission with a brand new never used clutch. I was going to put this set up im my subaru brat but decided to go a diffrent route. Im selling this because im going to collage on March 3rd and I need it gone or it has to go to scrap. so im asking $200 OBO. thank you for your consideration. If you're intrested please call me at (541) 323-5000. I'm located in Bend Oregon.
