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Showing results for tags '1984'.
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I have the manual to the 84 gl, but the vehicle I drive is an 85 BRAT. Can I use the 84 wiring diagrams to fix the 85 BRAT? -
Today’s problem, ignition coil. What is a good replacement? It throws a yellowish spark 1/4 inch. It is definitely not any shade of blue. Leaky engine oil. The oil pump seal is the culprit. The oil pump is fine, only one season on it. How do I re- do the seal? Water pump. This one is 11 years old, and 24,000 miles. Replace? Catastrophic Converter y pipe piece needs to be replaced. Where can I buy a decent one? Oh, and an donor-body. This one is rusty.
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Greatings. Currently have no power to my factory FM radio in my 84 DL. I have checked the fuse (15A) in fuse box and glass (2 amp) fuse behind radio. No luck so far. Radio stoped working a few months back. All the wiring is original and has not been messed with. Any ideas?
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1984 GL 4WD 49 State, with Weber carb. Bah! Trying to find the cause of a problem which comes and goes. 'been pleased with the Weber carb, starts right up usually. Yesterday, I had a crank but no-start condition. Choke in right position, correct fuel pressure to carb. 50 degree day. Removed dist cap, wd-40'd and thoroughly dried it. I attempted to start several times, and I did not get even a "pop". Also, with starting fluid, choke open, then choke closed, no start, no detonation. I let the car sit for a couple of hours, then came back to it to do diagnostics. I removed #1 spark plug wire, to check spark on disembodied spark plug. The car started right up with gusto on 3 cylinders. What is the most likely cause of intermittent spark problem? Anecdotal information wanted! It's all I have to go on.
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I plan to run some wiring for a dash cam. I would like to run it under the headliner of my 1984 GL wagon. Any advice or instructions on how to remove the headliner? It seems to be styrofoam, with a thin vinyl color layer. Is it glued in place? mkoch
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1984 4WD GL, I need to replace the axle shafts, front. 200,000 miles, seems like a good idea to replace the front wheel bearings and seals while I am at it. What else should I do on this job?
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I just did a clutch replacement on a 1984 4WD GL. I replaced the rear main engine seal, and the orange gasket featured in this video It looks like the oil pan gasket is leaking, and also I have some oil in the clutch housing. Can oil leaking from the oil pan gasket migrate up into the clutch housing? The bottom of the clutch bell housing is open. I am hoping it can, it would be an easy fix. Otherwise, I am looking at fixing a leak in the transmission.
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3-43 7. Hydraulic Valve Lifter 1. Replacement The hydraulic valve lifter can be replaced even when the engine is mounted on the vehicle as follows: 1. Disconnect both the blow-by and PCV hoses 2. Revove the valve rocker cover. 3. Using the special tool (Socket Wrench: 899988607), loosen the valve rocker ASSY and remove the push rod. 4. Raise the vehicle body with a jack and suppor it on a safety stand. 5. Remove the nuts which secure the front engine mounting and slightly raise the engine using a floor crane. 6. Remove the drain plug to drain the engine oil completely. Detach the oil pan. 7. Remove the hydraulic valve lifter. Use of a magnet facilitates removal. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3767-ea81fig-3-45-a-5678/ Fig. 3-45 A5-678 8. The valve lifter can be installed in reverse order. 2. Adjustment 1. Perform adjustment in cold condition [coolant temperature 20 to 40 deg. C (68 deg. to 104 deg. F)]. 2. Retighten cylinder head nuts and bolts previously if necessary. 3. Adjust hydraulic valve lifter with the following procedures: a. Perform adjustment in two (2) sequences. Sequence (I) -------------------- Position #1 cylinder at TDC (compression), and adjust the valve lifters for intake and exhaust valves on #1 cylinder, for exhaust valve on #3 cylinder and for intake valve on #4 cylinder. Sequence (II)---------------- Position #2 cylinder at TDC (compression), and adjust all the others, i.e. for intake and exhaust valves on #2 cylinder, for intake valve on #3 cylinder and for exhaust valve on #4 cylinder. b. Raise up the bend of lock washer, loosen the lock nut, and then turn the valve rocker screw clockwise by approx. four (4) turns using Valve Clearance Adjuster 498767000. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3768-ea81fig-3-46-a5-700/ Fig. 3-46 A-700 <Valve opens. Screw by approx 4 turns> c. Leave it with the valves opened for approx. 15 minutes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3769-ea81fig-3-47-a5-701/ Fig 3-47 A-701 <Leave for approx 15 minutes then pressure chamber volume becomes minimum. Valve moves to close a little.> d. Unscrew the valve rocker screw gradually. Then, the rocker arm stops moving due to the closing of valve. This condion is called "Zero Point". http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3770-ea81fig-3-48-a5-702/ Fig. 3-48 A5-702 <Valve closes Zero point Unscrew gradually> e. Moreover, unscrew the valve rocker screw counterclockwise by 1.5 turns http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3771-ea81fig-3-49-a5-703/ Fig. 3-49 <Hydralic valve lifter adjusted Unscrew by 1.5 turns> f. Tighen lock nut, and bend the lock washer.
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Blast, double post. Moderator, please delete.
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Looks like the two sides could be joined with bolts. Repair, or replace?
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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3772-pilot-bearing-included-in-clutch-kit/ This pilot bearing was included in my clutch kit for my 1984 GL 4wd . . I did not take a part off the car like this... that I know of! The outside diameter is 16mm. Does the 1984 4wd GL use this bearing? I do not want to complete the engine installation, and then find that this should have been included in the assembly. Do I need it? More importantly, does my car need it?
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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3765-ea81-do-not-adjust-valves-sticker/ A sticker on my valve cover says "Don'd Adjust Valve Clearance". The engine is at 160,000 miles. What should I do?
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Duplicate...Moderator, please delete this.
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The input shaft holder seems to be on there pretty well, I cannot pry it off with a screwdriver. Can I replace the oil seal for the transmission from here? edit: the video may be upside down.
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Here is a video: The new and old clutch plates do not look the same. Will this be a problem? mkoch
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The condition is: I have a 1984 GL 4WD Wagon, and the engine is out of it. The oil pump, and crank pulley are removed. The front main engine seal needs to be replaced. Can I replace the front main engine seal after I put the engine back into the car? I wonder if there will be room to do this.
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Alright! I'm starting a thread on the resurection of my 1985 Subaru BRAT GL. A little backstory... I purchased this thing in 2012(?) from an old dude on Craigslist. I wasn't looking for a BRAT, but just stumbled upon it while looking to get a car. I always loved BRAT's but sort of forgot about them over the years. When I saw it, I HAD to have it. So off I went to Welches, OR to pick it up. One issue... I never drove a stick! Ha! So I jumped into the fire and had to learn on the drive home. On the drive the BRAT started losing power and surging and dying. I pulled over and looked under the car to see the catalytic converter glowing BRIGHT red. Uh oh. I called the previous owner and he kindly had it towed to a shop and had his mechanic check it out. He figured the cat was deffective/clogged and installed a new one. I just barely got the BRAT home. Same problem. So what did I do? Joined the USMB! -The day I got it home after a much needed wash- Since I feared the new cat was melted, I took a rod and punched out all of the comb. Still couldn't get it to run right. Rebuilt the Hitachi carb, cleaned and tuned as much as I could. No change. I was at my wits end. I thought I'd been had. Then I decided to reach out to GeneralDisorder (Rick at Superior Subie and Import (before he had the shop)). He generously let me tow the car to his house to see what was up. Without much effort he figured it out! Are you biting your fingernails yet??? It was the ignition control module in the disty! It wasn't screwed down! Halleluja! From there we went over many other things and he imparted a wealth of knowledge. I am eterrnally grateful! So without going into the entire history of this BRAT, here is the short: Ditched all emissions junk, replaced ill-fitting header with a stock one, did the Weber swap, new 185/75/13 tires, new fluids, wires, water pump, DEEP cleaning, yadayadayada. It ran GREAT for a couple years. Out of town trips, Seattle hills, off-road camping, snow, etc. A really creat Bi-Drive Recreational All-Terrain Transporter. So what happened? It developed a few serious oil leaks that went unnoticed. This was my only car and I didn't have the time or space to address every issue it had. I heard some ticking and thought it was noisey lifters. Blew a headgasket, replaced it. ATF flush. New oil. Tick got worse. After a few hundered miles, KNOCK KNOCK! The damn thing siezed. And I was moving that week. Kill me. SO I towed the dead BRAT to my new apartment (with a garage!) and there it sat. For a year and a half. Life got in the way of wrenching, but now it's time to give this beast a new life! I will be updating this picture heavy thread regularly thoughout the build. I hope it helps people and I hope you help me! -Here is how it sits now. Sad, sad BRAT.-
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Does anyone know what the ECS light is on the dash? I recently did a weber swap on my 1984 Subaru DL. Var runs better and stringer than ever. My only concern is that afther a while of running it (15 minues or so) a ECS light comes on. Is this anything serious what could it be and how do i get rid of it. I never had any lights come on before the swap. Thanks
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Not sure what this is... Or its purpose... Looks like i has a filter inside. Connecter to two vacuum lines? Maybe both are fresh air? Sits just to the rear drivers side of the intake manifold and engine. Off a 1986 GL Hatchback. Probably the same for Brats. Thanks! If you look close you can see that the two hoses connect to two different switches (?) on the intake manifold.
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My '84 GL Wagon (2WD) has blown out the driver's side ASV,become difficult to start, and sooted up that side of the engine compartment. Anybody have one for sale or know a work-around? Thanks, Geoff in Georgia
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First post to this board. Just bought a 84 GL. Only one of the four wheel drives works. When the normal 4x4 light is on it won't engage gears. It's like I'm in neutral. When I pop it to 4 lo it works but the guy that sold it to me said he thought that was the only 4 wheel option and he took it up to speeds much higher than 4 low can get to. It is a Manuel, and has a ea81 brat motor in it. I would like to get both working. Just wondering how big a fix this might be. Thank you.
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Hello, I got an 84 brat and it ran awesome, however within 2 days the fuel pump went "out" replace it and still nothing. So a kid my age had it before the owner I got it from and kind of messed with it all. I'd like to rewire is so I know the pump is betting proper voltage and everything. Does anyone live in Vegas or near that would possible help or just schematics for a good rewiring. Also any other help for a restore would be helpful. This will be my first restore. V/R
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howdy all, am going to try and resurrect my 83 wagon which has been sitting since 2008. (i have spent time poring over previous pertinent threads seeing if this has already been adequately addressed, but did not find what i am looking for) when last running, "olive" had developed a problem in which she would fire up and idle just fine, but had no power and would not accelerate beyond a crawl. i am no mechanic, back in earlier days i learnt how to replace the clutch, axles, steering knuckles, but not much beyond that, my pal joe, who gave me olive, and i spent three hot days trying three different c-w carbs to see if we could affect a cure, but gave up, i left her parked and jumped on my bicycle and the bus for a few years until i found an 84 2wd sw ("silver car") locally for $800, which served me beyond the call of duty until she blew a head gasket on the james river parkway south of springfield, coming back from the eastern ozarks sunday evening. i managed to limp silver car adding water every 15 miles to get to the oklahoma border and within range of a free AAA tow back to tulsa (the gasket blew a hole between the water jacket and the exhaust, so no water in oil yet, but there is something knocking, perhaps a lifter, when started). anyhow, the next door neighbor came over having heard the tow truck come in and offered his services as a shade tree wrencher, since olive was sitting back in back with the mysterious ailment above mentioned, he thought it would be cheaper and easier to get her running again rather than trying to fix silver car which will need the engine pulled regardless. he spent the last two afternoons working on olive, he established that the fuel pump was working and fuel getting through the filters to the carb, and has dissasembled both c-w carbs and found the accelerator pump diaphragms on both to be rotted/perforated and thinks that may be the source of the no power/stall issue. am now waiting for surfside aauto parts to call about a new accelerator pump i ordered yesterday. meanwhile, the reading i have done on this board leaves me with the impression that the carter weber is a problematic unit, and i never did get very good gas mileage out of it, whereas the hitachi on silver car, even in the neglected state i allowed her to be in had delivered 28 mpg on the tank i used getting over to the ozarks. ok, so enough background ramble, the thesis question is, can i switch carbs from the 84 to the 83, and what all is involved? there is extensive documentation about fitting ea81 with SPFI, but i do not have interest or locally obtainable resources for that, but i do have both cars. i am thinking the dizzys may be paired to each carb, but are the manifolds and wiring different? as the carter seems to be a problem, and the hitachi seems to deliver better mpg and is much more widely available, i think the detailed discussion may be of use to others in the future. finally there is the chance that another part/function/system other that the fuel/carburetor may be the problem causing the idle fine but no get up and go that i last experienced when i parked olive six years ago. please help, this is not a leisurely project, being broke down right now is extremely destablising, i have had a challenging year of transition, and have only began to get on my feet, as recently as three weeks ago experienced being flat broke for the first time in years and really need to be able to get around to take care of some pressing tasks. i had planned to be spending this week running loads and assembling a multi ton uhaul load of vintage records to haul up to kansas. the title says it all in a nutshell, but i am also looking for insight about the c-w, i am so hoping just replacing the accelerator pump will fix the issue. thanks for any reply, and for being here to ask! -
Ok so I was under my wagon tonight replacing the differential fluid when I saw this little sweetheart. is this another fuel filter? (Well I take that back I know that it's a fuel filter, I just don't know what kind of fuel filter it is) could someone give me some info on it? it's located underneath the car just behind the back passenger side tire. Thanks all! -
Hi; I have a 1984 turbo wagon with an automatic trans. The trans shifts and seems to work like it should, but I have a bad crunching and vibration when the car accelerates. The former owner had new axels installed so not them. I pulled the axels and the splined stubs appear to be loose, maybe something in the front diff? I also have a 1986 turbo sedan for a parts car, dual range 5 speed, that I would like to install into the wagon. Has anyone done a changeover like this? Would the later clutch pedal and cable work on the older car? Just from measuring none of the crossmembers look like they will work, so I guess that I will have to fabracate my own. The rear gears are the same 3:70's, but the sedan has LSD in it. Any ideas, input would really be appreciated.
