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Showing results for tags '1987'.
Found 10 results
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STOLEN 1987 Subaru GL wagon. Silver color, EA82 with 5 speed D/R. Stolen Oct. 17th in North Seattle. WA plate AHR0543. The back seat (bench type) was removed. The image is from before the 'Quick-n-Easy rack' and tent install. The roof top tent is a 2 person TEPUI. Travel cover is black. Large black plastic wind deflector in front of tent. The tent fabric is the silver colored all weather, 4 season canopy. I made a larger rainfly that fits over the stock rainfly. Very unique appearance because the custom rainfly is supported by tent poles with shock cord to make long horizontal poles. The tent had defects from the factory. One problem was the holes for the stock rainfly support rods were drilled horizontally. I had to drill vertical holes so the rod anchor places have 2 sets of holes. The ladder side floor has two 4" diameter port holes with threaded covers in the corners for a heating system. Half the heating system was in the tent. The tubes to convey dry heat are 2" diameter stainless steel bellows type tube (very rare tube ). Vehicles all over Seattle are stolen with shaved keys so homeless persons can have vehicles to commit crime and live in. It is mobile family dwelling. The homeless population is immune to prosecution. They park on the streets and can not be towed. If my vehicle is trashed, I will have EA82 and GL spare parts available: engine, heads, case bolts, lash adjusters, mirrors to list a few. If you see this vehicle in western Washington, please call the Seattle Police Dept. non-emergency line 206 625-5011 with regards to incident # 2020-296202 Thanks ahead of time, Silverback
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Good morning all, I posted a while back about a fuel pump, which thanks to y’all’s help I was able to get replaced. However, a new problem has arisen. My 87 GL-10 wagon isn’t running well. This morning it started up fine, but began to misfire and sputter when I put it in drive. I replaced my spark plugs and fuel filter, but now it won’t turn over. I have a Haynes Manual to go on. Does any body have any idea what it could be? distributor cap and rotor maybe? thanks, Kevin -
So i lost my spare key the other day, it was the last one i had left and was out in the woods so we had some mcgyvering to. Got it hot wired under the hood but the steering wheel lock still works so straight was our only option. We tear the steering column apart (its a gambler style car not worried about breaking things) to get the key cylinder out, that was easy, got the car started, great, got home. Next day went to start it, no choke on it cuz of weber carb, so i was warming it up.... it died, went to start up again dash light and heater/radio all the auxiliaries came on turned it over and they all faded out. no power nothing, checked battery cables just fine, fuseable links on coil are fine (maybe the hotwiring fubard it). Heres what strange to me while trying to figure out wtf is goin on we hotwired it under the hood again and it starts up runs drives, power to everything dash/radio/etc. turned it off, no power to anything with key switch still. Checked all fuses checked voltage of harness under steering wheel, 12v, I am out of ideas, and leads? is there are relay or something im missing that went out? please heeeeeelp meeeeeh. Thanks!
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I had my oil pump fail on my 1987 ea82. The belt pulley broke off the shaft. It seems the rotor seized in the block (see pictures) and I am not sure what could have happened or if metal flakes got in between the rotor and block because it looks like the rotor had been scraping as you can see in pictures. why would the rotor go rogue and do this damage? also is that opening in the middle supposed to be misaligned? it almost looks cracked?! I have just recently purchased this vehicle and have had zero issues or TOD until the pump failed after I put roughly 700 miles in. I am a little scared to try and remove the rotor using some force because I don't want to damage the block. Advice or ideas?
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I have a problem when I try to accelerate, the engine bogs down like it is not getting enough gas or something. If I slowly depress the pedal the engine does speed up but when put under load, it bogs down again. I have been fighting this on and off for a few weeks now. I had initially thought it was bad gas so when I worked through a tank or two it seemed to return to normal for a time. However it has returned. I added SeaFoam to the tank but it has not resolved the problem. I can find no vacuum leaks and the car idles normal, no skipping or misfiring. I can't imagine it is bad gas at this point. I looked on the formums before posting and did find another person with a similar issue in a 89 wagon and his was a coil issue. Could this be what is happening with mine?
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Video of truck: Starts off stationary - at operating temp 0:10 - 0:30 then fwd 1st at 0:31 - 0:49 4wd lo first gear 0:50 into second last 10 seconds is 4wd lo 2nd gear, but going slow. Only speedo tach and thermometer work. I have oil pressure, and I'm not pushing 18v. I've done a new weber carb, fuel filters, plugs, plug wires, coil, and egr delete. Oil and filter are fresh These are the stock redline Weber subaru kit jets, with the short air filter, and a free flow (hollow cat, single muffler) exhaust Any ideas on what I should do next? This has been the problem my almost my entire time owning this thing, would be great to finally be able to floor it without killing it.
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Hey guys, So I found a 1987 Gl10 Turbo Wagon for $1000 (he says that the price is negotiable though) in pretty good shape for being 28 years old. For a first car I'm looking for something that I can daily drive to school (engineering student) and handle Utah winters, and I'm really digging this car so far, but I want to make sure it's the right choice. here's the ad: http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/2383534?ad_cid=18 The good: +138,000 original miles +5 speed manual +paint and body are MINT (some rust and small dent in front, but that's it) +power everything still works, except the auto lock doors (even the power sunroof!) +interior is decent to good (no ripping) +Heat/AC works perfectly The bad: -clutch needs to be replaced (slips in 4th and 5th, but still drivable). -needs new tires -Turbo? I hear turbo ea82s have reliability problems? Anyone know what I should expect? (though turbo's are fun!) So yeah. Should I go for it? I'm really digging this car, and I have no problem getting dirty and working on the thing, but as a student, I have a limited amount of free time (and money!). I hear it's not too hard to lift the engine and replace the clutch, which would be much cheaper, but I have little experience working on cars, though I know my way around tools. What's your guys' experiences with GLs? Thanks, Matt
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So the title pretty much says it all, can't get my brat's interior lighting to work besides the dome. Would very much like to have that, what are the main wires for that? Also, my heating doesn't work, but I don't have my ac compressor connected, don't know if that's the problem or not. Anything helps Thanks -
just trying out my new water pump, much work to do on it
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A few weeks ago I noticed a coolant leak, and tracked it down to an intake manifold gasket -- no problem, just pull the manifold and replace the gasket (or so I thought). I wound up busting a stuck bolt, and had to drill it out, unfortunately I managed to drill through a head mounting stud in the process -- I didn't notice this, however, until I tried to turn the engine over and wound up filling my cylinders with coolant. Now, I need to replace a stud, and probably the head as well -- I put a small divot in the bottom of the thru-hole while drilling through the stud, I assume that it is this combination of busted stud, plus divot, that led to coolant in the cylinder. Does anyone have any advice, or a head (left side, ea81) they can sell me? I'm in Albuquerque, NM
