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Showing results for tags '1989'.
Found 10 results
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Hey super new. And there is probably a good forum you can point me to. But here is the issue I am having with my 1989 FWD GL. I just bought the car it has 100,000 miles and looks to be in ok condition. While driving it I noticed it was slow going in and out of gears and had a lot of trouble in reverse. When in reverse It would rev and slowly back up like a boat then it would get more traction and be fine. NBD I thought, it was old and cost me a couple of hundred bucks and when it goes bad I’ll put some hair on my chest and learn a bit more about cars. Lol. The next day while driving the transmission decides that going into gears isn’t cool. Press down on the gas and it revs like it’s in neutral. I check the fluids. (Which I promise I was going to do that that day.) Everything looks good except the ATF is empty. That can’t be good. So I fill it to proper levels at proper temps. Shift through the gears. Drain, clean the atf filter and pan. Refill. The car still doesn’t move. It’s not leaking any atf. Not a drop. So after some research I have a few ideas. Governor gear getting apple cored. Vacuum Modulator sucking atf into the engine and burning it. or A host of issues that all at up to transmission says no. THANKS IN ADVANCE!
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I'm trying to find a wiring diagram for my 89' GL so I can install the radio myself instead of paying a 50$ fee just to get it put in. I'm simultaneously trying to learn more about my car as it is my first car and I wanna be able to work on it myself rather than relying on body shops, mechanics, etc. etc.. If anyone could help me out it'd be much appreciated since I'm basically a new born in terms of being in the car scene. -
Hi there Subaru lovers of all kind lol. I have had my Subaru since I was about 2 years of age. It has stayed in the family for years. I would like to put an sjr lift in it but I know you have to do some fabrications and such. I was wondering if there was a professional shop that could install the kit properly or anyone that would like to do it on the side. I would like to see past work of course. This car is very sentimental to me. It's an 1989 GL with the high low gear box. I'm currently putting my rebuilt ea motor in it as we speak. If anyone can help me out I've been searching for a long time. My dad also has one that needs to be fixed. I think he has the 4 inch lift in it now.
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Hey everyone, Recently, I got back from a holiday and had my 89'GL sitting there for a month. It got driven a couple of times, but was dead when I got home. I replaced the spark plugs and she was up and running. Ever since though, it's ran like crap. Shakes with a very low idle, back fires when changing gears/de-accelerating and has bad fuel economy. I came to think it could just be time for a timing service. I have all the gear, new water pump (while I'm down there), timing light, compression kit etc and know how to test each thing. However, I'm just confused as to what order each part should be tested in? Disty, Ignition, Belt, Carbu idle speed? Cheers all! Hayden
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I have an 1983 gl (ea81/4speed tranny) and was wondering if the 5 speed tranny from an 1989 (ea82) would fit? I know about the normal modifications for a 5 speed swap. I was mostly wondering if the year difference would affect the swap... -
I'm looking for help diagnosing the front turn signal lights on my '89 GL Wagon. Problem: Both the right and left turn signal lights are not working on the front of the car. Assumptions: 1. The rear turn signal lights are working. 2. The turn signal light bulbs in the front are working (not flashing) when the headlights are on and not indicating to turn. 3. The turn signal indicator is working on the instrument panel when indicating to turn. 4. The normal clicking sound is heard when indicating to turn. 5. All of the fuses are good. Thank you for considering the above. Your advice will be appreciated. -
Good morning all, Does anyone know the part number for the FWD manual transmission that goes into a 1989 Subaru GL wagon? I attached a picture of a transmission that is thought to be for my car but I want to make sure. The number that is hard to read is TM70F5A2AT-AK thanks, Lewis
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Good afternoon all, I have a 1989 Subaru GL wagon (EA82) that I will be lifting 2". I am looking for recommendations for rims & tires. I will also be drilling out my hubs to the toyota 6 bolt pattern. Any favorites for big tires and rims (size, brand, etc) that have the off-road look and feel without sacrificing street handling. I will most likely be driving to work (20 mi) with this car. Any input/suggestions are greatly appreciated. Cost is always king I am not looking to sell my kidneys to fund this build but I understand it will take some coin. Thanks, Lewis
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Last week I finally took possession of a 1989 RX coupe with 74,270 miles on the odometer. I have decided to name her Ruth after her original owner. The car was purchased new in New Hampshire, and I bought her from the original owner's granddaughter in Washington, DC. Ruth is pretty solid overall, and the interior is immaculate but for two holes in the driver's side headrest and a bit of wear to the trunk carpet. I've decided to get her back on the road and clean her up to the extent I can without going broke. I wanted to take Ruth to Carlisle, PA this past weekend, so I launched into a flurry of activity to make sure she was roadworthy. The front brakes turned out to be completely shot, but the calipers moved easily and worked fine, so all I needed were rotors and pads. The rear pads and rotors need replacement, but they could wait. I ordered a full set of rotors and pads from my local Subaru dealership; apparently I got the last set of NOS rear pads in the country. While driving home, I noticed that the temp gauge didn't work. When I checked the connector, the terminal popped right off. Unfortunately, the dealer ordered the wrong temp sensor, so I had to improvise. The copper wire was still lodged in the sensor, and there was just enough length to crimp on a connector from my toolbox. Not ideal, but it worked. Now I can replace the sensor at my leisure. Next up: the passenger outer CV boot was completely gone, and the bearings were clacking around in the race. When I got home with the replacement drive axle, I discovered that the crown nut had been crossthreaded so badly that it was unusable. I packed grease into the joint and jury-rigged two boots I cut off of old Forester axles, tying them together with twine and reusing the metal clamp near the hub. This somehow lasted 62 miles before disintegrating in spectacular fashion. Surprisingly, it was the metal band that failed - the twine had held together and had to be cut away to remove what was left of the boots. I drove another 200 to Carlisle and back to DC with a completely bare outer joint. The last thing I checked before taking Ruth on the highway was the timing belt. The belt itself looked good, but it was frighteningly loose. I was about to give up on driving her to the show, but then I discovered that the tensioners on the ea82 are manual, not hydraulic. And there are even access holes to reach the bolts for the pulleys! Ten minutes later, the belts were nice and snug. I started to feel nervous when I felt some nasty vibration from the outer CV joint around 65mph, but I discovered that it smoothed out above 75. Cruised all the way there and back at 75-80, grinning like a madman the whole way. Among the highlights at Carlisle was meeting Nipper, whose posts on all these Subaru boards I've been reading for years now. Also loved seeing his CVT-powered Justy. My biggest problem now is some odd noise from the rear suspension, along with left rear camber that is not exactly within factory specs. I suspect it might have something to do with this: The worst area of rust is the rear crossmember. If anyone has a replacement in good condition or knows where to find one, please let me know. I'm not terribly keen on the rear suspension falling apart while I'm driving. I also need new bumper beams front and rear, because the front is bent from a small accident, and the rear is more rust than metal. I'm holding out hope that the plastic bumper covers will be reusable. In the 250-odd miles I've driven, I have fallen completely in love with this car. It's small, sprightly for its age, and like few other cars on the road in my neck of the woods. I am grateful for any assistance I might receive here, and I hope to keep you posted while I return Ruth to her former glory. -
Hi guys, Have recently bought my first Subaru here in New Zealand. From what I've read on Wikipedia, they changed the names for different markets, so I may have a rebadged Leone or Loyale. I'm really not sure, so I was hoping some of the experts here may be able to help. One of the problems I've encountered with this car is getting parts for it. If I go into an autoparts store and give them the exact model and even the numberplate to do the lookups off, every part that gets ordered in is wrong. When I ordered HT leads, they were far to short. Tried to order a distributor cap but the one that corresponds to my model in the parts book they use is a clip on, not screw in like mine. So I went to a Subaru wreckers, they gave me a cap that looked exactly the same, Hitachi and all, even off another Omega. But the width between the screw holes is 2mm too short, so it doesn't fit. As you can see in the pictures, the cap is in need of desperate replacement. I've seen dizzy caps on American websites, and I am hoping that if someone here can figure out what the equivelant of this car is in the American market, I may be able to buy one that will fit, using the make/model/year search on a site like this: http://www.partsgeek.com/mparts/distributor_cap/subaru.html I've included some pictures of the car, and the # of the distributor itself is this: 22100AA450 D4P86-01-A8206 A wreckers told me the last part (A8206) is a manufacture number or something, and is not important? Would love to know what you guys think, I'm in a bit of a pickle otherwise! Cheers, Logan PS: The car is running rough, hence me trying to eliminate the problem by replacing all the little things (spark plugs, HT leads, dizzy cap). If the cap isn't at fault, my next though it the fuel injection. If anyone has any input regarding fuel injection on this model, please speak up
