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Showing results for tags '1990'.
Found 20 results
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I have a 1990 Subaru loyale with a no start no spark I’ve replaced ignition distributor made sure it is properly wired the only thing is the ignition pulse if I’ve done the test right with a test light. there is no pulse. There is also other random stuff that doesn’t work on the car , lights, dash light etc. I wondering if it is infact the ecu that isn’t working and if not other things it would be side note there is no check engine light or codes -
My buddy Eric1111 has been working on my car. I cant sign into his account for some reason to post this so I made my own account to post for him. (Loyale 1990 with weber conversion) Eric says-- I've just finished replacing the clutch components and was to the point of trying to start the engine. It turned over nice, sounded good, good battery, but I hadn't hooked up the throttle. Next try, turns over nicely, timing's off, shut off the key, adjust timing. Try again, turns over, but timings wrong. Shut it off, adjust timing. Turn the key and nothing happens. Now the horn works, the emergency blinkers work. The chime that tells me my hand is on the key works, but I can't find anything else that does work. All the fuses look good. The fused links look like they did before, and I switched them around,looking for some change. The battery reads 12.48V, (It was 12.49 before I jumped the starter, which turned the engine over easily), but at the ignition switch,the hot wire reads 11.82V, with the key in the off position. Is the 1 volt loss an issue? I thought I had it narrowed down to the ignition switch. Replaced that to find zero change. Been workin on this car all day with Adam Sandler's POS car tune going in my head. Any thoughts on what the issue is?
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Hi, My 1990 american legacy wagon I've just bought has an over heating problem. It drives fine and the coolant temp stays slightly below the centre of the gage on all flat and downhill roads no matter how much you thrash it. It's only when I drive up a hill that it slowly starts to overheat. If I pull over and let it idle it will go back to the normal operating temp in less than a minute, as soon as I start driving up hill again it starts to overheat. It doesn't seem to matter how much I accelerate, it seems like the only thing that makes it heat up is going on the up hill slope. Does anyone have any clue what could cause this? Thanks -
Hey guys I picked up this Loyale back in August. so far Its been awesome I have took it beyond its limits numerous times its only let me down once (in the middle of a golf course, ) The power (or lack of) is getting to me so I will be doing an engine swap in the next few months,the engine is currently sitting in the garage ready to be worked I need to do the timing belt and seals. I am using a 1990 legacy as a donor car, if anybody is interested in parts not being used for the swap let me know (I have car full ) I would like to lift it eventually.
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I'm getting my car ready for a long cross-country drive (mostly cosmetic things and getting it to my standards) The biggest thing I have to do to it is repair the air conditioner system. Here's the deal: I got into an accident and destroyed my condenser coil that sits in front of the radiator and all of my R-12 coolant blew out. What I want to do is get a new condenser and convert the system over to R-134a instead of pulling R-12 out of old window air conditioners at the junk yard. There is a lack of parts that I need. My uncle tells me I'll need a dryer to clean all the moisture out of the open lines. And I also need a condenser coil. The online retailer that I've been going to for parts to my car does not carry condenser coils. There are 2 at my local auto parts junkyard, what is the consensus to using junkyard aircon parts? Would it even be worth it? Are there any condenser coils from other cars that would fit in my car with little to no modification? Like how certain Nissan Maxima alternators fit? Looking online the very few retailers that do carry those coils are asking way over $100 for them. How difficult is switching an old system over to 134a? Is it reliable? I don't expect it to reach negative 40 in the car on a 120 degree day. I'd like to know how much refrigerant oil to put into my OEM compressor, and are there any brands that I should stick to? I read in another topic that NAPA sells universal 134a conversion kits so i'm probably going to do that. Anyway thanks for reading and thank you for helping me out!
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Hi all, Re-entering the Subaru world after a long break (previously owned an '85 DL Wagon, '87 GL10 Wagon). I just bought a 1990 Legacy L Wagon for my son today and I need some advice. General Advice - best online parts market place? Specific to this car - The key won't unlock (or lock) the drivers side door. Works on passenger side. Is this about the cylinder or the key? The original key is broken but I still have the "stub" and I'm currently using a key that was copied from original some time ago. Is it worth it to bring "stub" with code to dealership to get new key cut? Thanks in advance for the help! - Drew -
Hello. So my friend did an engine swap on his 1990 Subaru Legacy. During the change the shaft came out of the torque converter. Now, when we start the car there is a clunking kind of noise. Any suggestions on what can be causing that noise or how to fix it would be so helpful. Are there any spline alignments in the engine? -
We were gifted a 1990 Subaru Legacy for our family of 3. The previous owner said it overheated and leaked radiator fluid and didn't want to drive it. I checked it, replaced the $5 leaking radiator hose. Ta da! No overheating problem! Passes emissions. Drives smoothly. Passes Utah's safety check. Tires good. Ac/heat good. Fast forward some months... I now have a check engine light that came on. I followed the directions here with success: http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm It runs codes 15, 24, and 35: 15:Fuel injector #2 inoperative (Abnormal signal emitted from monitor circuit) 24:Air control valve inoperative (Abnormal signal produced in monitor circuit) 35: Canister purge solenoid valve. Solenoid valve inoperative I have no idea what these mean, or if I need to worry about them. Anyone more experienced with this sort of diagnostic? Thanks so much! -Matt -
Hi there, So I just bought a high mileage 1990 subaru legacy with the 2.2l and auto trans. I went into it knowing there were some issues to resolve, those being primarily leaking valve covers and some throttle body issues. While talking to the seller he told me that the alternator had recently gone bad and that he had replaced it with a junkyard one. He assured me he'd had it tested and it tested out well. I drove the vehicle a few days to figure out some of it's quirks before I dove into the project. After a thorough cleaning of the engine bay I drove about five miles, noticing some serious electrical malfunctions with the gauges and the headlights dimming, and eventually the car died from a lack of electrical power. Obviously, I jumped at the alternator. Pulled it and the battery out. Took the battery to work (I work at a Chevrolet dealership) for a full charge and a diagnostic to make sure that it was not in fact the problem. Battery tested great, so I charged it fully and put it back in the car. Next came the alternator. Again, took it down, got it bench tested and it too tested out fine. So I came home, installed everything again, hit the key and it starts right up. I hopped in to take it for a test drive and made it maybe 100 yards down the road before the whole vehicle just shuts off like someone hit an on/off switch. The only time I've ever had electrical failure to that extent is when the battery cables aren't properly hooked up, so I checked everything out and it's all hooked up fine. Tried to jump it with my Jeep and the motor still wouldn't turn over. So like I said, I'm a newbie to the Subaru world, so I was wondering if there's some engine ground that may have come loose that wasn't readily apparent or if there might be a fuse or relay that would cause these symptoms. It's very clearly all of a sudden not getting power to the starter and I can't figure out why. Any help is appreciated. -
I done some digging in the various forums but can't seem to find the answer. I have a 1990 Legacy wagon with only 140k on it. I've done the front struts but the parts store wants stupid prices for the rears. I've seen that I can swap top hats and use later model struts but i can't find exact information. If anyone has some for sale I'd be interested. I'm sure I need springs too. AFIK OEM is still in there from when my dad bought it new in 1990. You can also reply to mcopeland at pobox dot com Thanx, Mike -
Hey everybody, I just got a 1990 Subaru Loyale a few days ago (will post pictures soon), while driving the check engine light turned on. It turns out it is a ISC Solenoid Valve Fault. I'm just wondering if anybody else has had this problem and what you guys did to fix it. EDIT; my bad guys, i was looking at the wrong codes After looking at the correct codes the problem is in fact the Idle Air Control Valve or Circuit.
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I just want some opinions here, my concern is through the roof. I am considering taking my 1990 Loyale wagon on a trip from Portland, Oregon to Gallipolis, Ohio, which is on the eastern side of the state. The trip is about 2600 miles, beginning on I-84, then moving onto I-80 and I-74. I'm a stranger to drives this far but if I do it, i'm not worried about lack of driving skill or anything like that. I'd maybe cruise a bit less than 500 miles a day until i got there. Who knows. What I AM worried about is ye olde ea82. Its a tough old gal, but it has given me trouble here and there, no surprises. I have a bit of an oil leak on the passenger side cam tower, which became pretty noticeable after cleaning the block. It's not enough so that I need to dump more oil in, in fact, I haven't noticed any oil loss whatsoever. What DOES go down the drain is some coolant, and I dont really know where it goes. Its not an absurd amount but, like i say, noticeable. The car drives like a champ for what it is, a yellow bellied ea82. However, I would kinda be up spoob creek with half a paddle if it blew up on the drive. I know my way around the engine bay no doubt, but thats not gonna save me if i throw a rod bearing or really cream the cam tower/head. Does anyone have experience with a trip like this in a "seasoned" ea82, or some insight they can give me? I would appreciate it greatly. I dont have much cash to save myself in the event of a mass failure. Is it worth trying? Car is a '90 Loyale wagon, optional 4wd, 5spd tranny. Thanks in advance guys. The car has been running pretty solid lately, it has had an electrical problem before but its fixed now. If spoob hits the fan, what kind of costs(jagged, rough estimates) can i expect to get this thing rebuilt? Any parts you see as impending doom-bringers? -
Does anyone know where an RX front lip can be obtained? or a "replica"/something aftermarket? I know there are plenty of DIY lips for imprezas and legacies, but how about for an ea82? pics?
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So my wagon is having issues. Saturday: Ran fine, took out injectors to see if the were the cause of my terrible idle, all seemed well so they went back on. Tried to start it, nothing. A few tries latter the engine seized. I pulled the plugs, unclipped the coil pack, and turned it over. Gas came shooting out like a fountain out of my engine. Put it all back together. Car then turned over but wouldnt start. Realized I forgot an O-Ring for one of my injectors. Replaced it. Still nothing. Sunday: Let it sit overnight. Tried to start it, nothing. Siezed again, cleared it out and replaced plugs. Nothing. Monday: Checked EVERYTHING. Siezed again and again. Then randomly ran for 20 minutes shooting gas out of the tail pipe, turned it off and tried again. Nothing. Tuesday: Replaced ALL O-Rings tried to start, siezed, tried to start again, ran for 5 minutes, but then I hit the gas a little and it died. I noticed that if I press on the pedal and prime it while I try and start it, it starts, but then dies or will run but dies when I press on the pedal. My neighbor (owns a BADASS Forrester) thinks its a fuel pressure regulator. Could anyone give me some of their opinions? -
hi Im an newbie to the forum that is need of a mechanic to work on my subaru loyale 1990. I think i have a cam shaft oil leak and im thinking of replacing my ERG solenoid myself. thank you in head of time for all your help michael -
Hey All, My 1990 Legacy LS trunk latch is bent, and will no longer latch. Does anyone know of any where I can get a replacement, I've been looking around and cannot seem to find one. Thanks for any help you can give. PVFD1305 -
Hey Subaru Nation - I have a 1992 Legacy 2.2 (non-turbo) and I'm trying to diagnose some idling issues. The car runs fine but once its warmed up it begins to surge idle at stops (sometimes stalling). I had a cracked air intake and I replaced it with no resolve and I've cleaned out the throttle body and I'm currently replacing the Idle air control valve with a new one (new gaskets all around). My next option is replacing the mass air flow sensor. My current sensor has 5 pins and all of the replacements I've seen online have 5 slots but only 4 pins?? Does it matter? Will the 4 pin work the same? Also if anyone has any further ideas or sollutions for idling issues - I'm much appreciative. I've also changed out the coolant/thermostat. Thanks for the help! -
So, I own a 1990 Loyale with push button 4wd. I want to lower it using coilovers or springs(if possible) from a 90's Impreza. Does anyone have experience with this, or other bolt-on/spring swap projects? I'm not looking to cut springs, OR buy 1800 dollar coils.. Help appreciated. thanks!
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So I just recently raised my Legacy onto Outback Suspension and put 27' General Grabber AT2's on her. I've noticed a HUGE loss of power, which I expected. With a tired out EJ22 I know its time for an engine swap in the short future. My question is, What are my options? I dont want a EJ25 because of the common HG problems. Would a 3.0 out of an H6 Outback work? I'm open to just about anything, but I wanna try to keep it subaru.
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So about a month ago I noticed my power steering started to get harder and harder to turn. About a week and a half ago it began to make noise. Last week I replaced the pump and yet still no change. Today I blew an axle...yay me....so as I was under the car checking out my busted hub and axle, I noticed a small tear and the power steering boot. I squeezed it and power steering fluid came gushing out. Does anyone know if this is the cause of the squeeky and difficult steering, or is it something more internal? Also, of anyone has instructions on axle Replacment, that would be wonderful. Thanks guys!
