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Showing results for tags '1997 legacy outback'.
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UPDATE: Its been a while since the swap, I added an interesting discovery about the EJ25 in a reply on the second page if anyone is interested. Hey everyone! As swap time moves nearer, I decided to move the thread from "EJ22 Build- Discussion, Suggestions, and Advice for a First-Timer" to here, in hopes to neaten things up and confirm that I'm not building some crazy turbo-frankenmotor-stroker, just a plain old EJ22E with fancy painted valve covers. Im still putting the finishing touches on the motor itself, I still need to find an intact center timing belt cover and a harmonic balancer, along with a small collection of nuts, bolts, coolant hoses, and vacuum lines. Not to mention the UEL headers... (Its a race car! ) The swap is still a week out, maybe more depending on parts. the EJ25D is starting to overheat pretty regularly now. Ill add coolant to the radiator and burp it later today, as if that'll make a difference. -EDIT- took maybe a quart, so its not leaking from anywhere, just air caveating in the water pump... So until then, Ill pester you with my questions! -In terms of registration and insurance, what should I say, if anything? I seriously doubt anyone from the DMV or USAA is going to be able to look under the hood and tell the two engines apart, or even really know what a boxer is! -Anyone know where I can find timing belt covers? every one in the junkyard is smashed, apart from a phase II EJ222, but, ya know why that wont work... I threw the original one out, and if it had a part number on it, either I'm blind or it was destroyed. -EDIT- apparently the EJ25 one will work -What sort of break-in procedures should I be aware of? I plan on running Mobile 1 synthetic (SEE EDIT), however I've heard that its best to break-in with conventional to help things seat, and change it after the first 50-100 miles. The engine hasn't run in at least a year. -EDIT- I'll just be running CONVENTIONAL OIL. My Chrysler teacher works for a local Subaru dealer (yep, he quit a dodge dealer to work for Subaru) and has told me horror stories about what happens to these engines if you use zinc-free oil, such as Mobile 1. And apparently since this is a roller motor, there really isn't a "break in" other than cooking the moisture out of it. He said the best thing I could do is start it and let it idle for about an hour, then change the oil and filter. (obviously if it starts clacking away shut 'er down and throw an oil pressure gauge on). He's also said that of all the motor pulls he's done, Subarus are the easiest. the worst part is the two studs/bolts that must be removed on the top of the engine. Surprised to see its only like 3 pages in the service info... -Coolant passages... they're all crusty. Should I be concerned and run a garden hose through there to clean them out or will they self clean when coolant starts to move? Thanks! Sorry if my questions are pretty basic and annoying, but I'm 18 and don't have many other financially viable options and need this car to get to college and work. I paid $4,000 for this car and its practically worthless as it sits, so I cant sell it for a better car 'cause no one will buy a car with bad head gaskets for $4,000.
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Drone noise started this morning. Sounds like an exhaust drone but it just started and theres no exhaust leak. Starts around 55 to 60 mph. Vibration too, i can feel it in my seat and the rearview mirror, etc. vibrates. I dont have a splash pan on the underside of the car and i hit a frozen over deep puddle this morning before i noticed the noise, might have something to do with it. What do yall think? Engine? Exhaust? Trans/driveline? Also, does anyone know where i can find a splash pan for this generation, if this even came with one? Im tired of a cloud of steam bursting out underneath my car every time i go over a puddle...
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Where I live in upstate new york it is not uncommon for the temperature to stay between 0 and 10. The past few days have been like that and i notice that when I start my car in the morning my rear wiper does not work. continues not to work on the morning commute. If I try it later in the day if the temp gets above 20 or so it works just fine. those who live in cold climates know cold does funny things to cars, im just wondering if anyone has an idea of what could cause this?
