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Found 3 results

  1. I had a rock thrown through my rear window last week. For the first time in a long time the Internet let me down. Very little information on how to remove and replace the rear glass on any car- never mind a Subaru. So here is my accounting of my experience. It should be mentioned that the real reason I did this is because the cost of the glass and the install fee was pretty crazy expensive. Min $650 and then $260 on top of that to install it never mind taxes. It took me most of the day to hack out the replacement glass from a salvaged hatch back, clean up the broken glass from the receiving car and glue it into place. A lot of work to be sure but I saved $900+ so, worth it in my opinion. Here is the before picture: The tools that really helped were a oscillating saw and guitar strings. Saw in action ( Look very closely for the little teeth) I used a medium sized blade on the saw. A 3/4" blade for wood. I really took my time and did not force it at any point. First thing I did was to remove the "SUBARU" bar and lights from the donor hatch. It would get in the way of the removal of the glass. I put a piece of foam to protect the glass. At times I had to lightly strap the hatch to my work table to stop it from moving. I used the oscillating saw to cut a hole for the guitar string. You have to use them like a pull saw. A handle on either side. Pull, pull,pull. I started with the largest E string and worked my way through a set of old strings, breaking them as I went. I went through almost a full set but finished with the second smallest string I had started using wrenches as handles but it was too hard on my hands so I made some wooden handles and drilled a small hole for the guitar string. I had to keep a eye out to not hack up the gaskets on the window. That being said there was some damage done to the seals. Not enough to worry about but it would have been nice to pull the window cleanly. FINISHED! One of the surprises were these plastic plugs that had to be cut through with the wire The hardest part of this project was removing the glass intact from the donor hatch. It took a long time. You have to be careful of the defrost connectors and the seal on the donor glass. I took hours. Cleaning up the urethane caulking on the glass was fast and easy on the glass side with the oscillating saw!! Like 60 seconds!!! Not so much on the car side. I would strongly recommend safety glasses as the splinters shoot into your face as you cut away the glass impregnated glass with the oscillating saw. I also damaged the paint on my car with the saw. I was not too worried as it would be covered my the glass, but it still meant another trip to the hardware store. I could not find the perfect match of paint either. Again. Not worried as it would be covered. I masked the SUBARU bar and some lights with tape. Sprayed a couple of coats of paint on the bare areas while I tried to get my seized window wiper nuts removed. (Penetrating oil and a wire brush). I was lucky to have a glass shop 6 blocks away. They sold me this urethane caulking I think that you have you use the urethane caulking in one go. The glass shop recommended that you lay a bead the size of 3/8" or 5/16". I considered taping the glass into place as it dried but It was the end of the day and the glass seemed to fit snugly. The window wiper nut held everything in place as well. The "After" Picture. I don't think you could do this job without the guitar strings or other string-like cutter. You could use other cutting devices for the caulking removal and clean up - but I really liked the oscillating saw. (I got mine at Canadian tire on sale for like $30) A sharp chisel and utility knife would do in a pinch. Just remember to take your time and don't force things and it all should work out.
  2. Hello USMB users, I am asking for help diagnosing a flashing AT Temp warning light on my 1998 Legacy L 2.2. The warning light flashes only when the car is started and the turns off after a few flashes. Also when making a tight turn it seems the wheels in the front are having trouble. They tires squeal even at speeds less than 5 mph and they seem to be "binding" or have trouble rotating when the steering is fully to one side. It seems like one wheel is slipping forward to keep up with the other. Thank you in advance. Dave
  3. So I just bought a 1998 Legacy L sedan with the 2.2L a week and a half ago. Today I replaced the CV shaft. Now I have 5 codes coming up. Also, the brake light on the dash panel is on. Any thoughts about these codes? P1700 P1507 P1540 P0500 P0325 Any and all help is greatly appreciated!
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