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Showing results for tags '2.5i'.
Found 16 results
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Hi all, I'm looking at purchasing an '06 OBW that had a JDM 2.5 ej253 installed a couple months ago. The seller sent me a video of it idling.: There's a weird slightly rhythmic clicking/clacking noise that repeats every 1.5 - 2 seconds. It doesn't seem tied to the RPMs of the engine though. Any thoughts? I have to drive 4 hours to see/pick the car up. Hoping to feel more secure before making the 8-hour round trip. Greg -
Hi all, Looking for advice. I am looking at purchasing a 2007 OBW. 2.5i, 5mt with 245k on it. It's from an online auto-auction site, that just happens to have their physical address 5 minutes from my house. It's priced at about $1000. I'm able to go look at it, so that is a plus. Anyway, thoughts. Right now I'm assuming that the motor and/or the transmission is shot. I have the transmission/clutch covered, as I have a 5mt from an '05 LGT wagon with about 60k on it, and the clutch is brand new. Motor though, is a different question. Again, I assume it is toast. So, I wanted to know if anyone has ever bought a jdm import from ebay? They claim to have 50-60k on them, and the price is around $1900. If I go that route, should I replace all gaskets before throwing the motor in? Or, should I try and find a short-block/long block from any of the subaru dealers, costing close to $3k? I'm also assuming that the suspension will be tired, and possibly the brakes. Other than that, what else should I consider with this high mileage of OBW? I'm unfamiliar with this generation, so what else should I be looking at having failed or about to? My total price range for everything is $5500-$6000. I've looked at quite a few used cars from that price range, and I only find Subarus that are high mileage and beat-to-crap/neglected by their owners. I'm not really open to jumping to a new platform (GM, Ford, Honda, etc) as I very familiar with subaru, and my time is limited. UNLESS someone has a very compelling argument to do so. The goal is to have a dependable car for at least the next 6 years so that I can get through grad-school and my first few years of work while I pay my loans off. I have to do clinical rotations next year, and because of Covid and its ripple-effect(s), there's a good chance that I'll have to commute a long distance for at least one 12-week rotation. As long as the interior isn't burnt away from a fire, I am fine putting seat-covers on. I really just need the drivetrain (and I guess the A/C since I live in the desert) to work dependably. Are these motors (EJ253, SOHC correct?) prone to oil consumption? Or leakage like all subarus? If I buy one from the dealer, will it still have consumption issues if so? Thanks for your time guys, Greg https://www.copart.com/lot/43891860/clean-title-2007-subaru-legacy-outback-2-5i-nv-las-vegas (please don't buy it out from under me) @1 Lucky Texan@GeneralDisorder@Fairtax4me@Rampage
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I apologize if there is another thread related to this. If there is, point me to it and I'll be on my way. Basically, this is where I'm at. I have a 2009 Impreza 2.5i. Rear Setup RalliTEK 1" Rear Raised Springs & KYB Excel-G Struts plus 3/4" Spacers Get-Primitive Sub Frame Spacer Kit Front Setup RalliTEK 1" Front Raised Springs & KYB Excel-G Struts plus 1/2" Front Lift Kit Spacers Mevotech Control Arms with Whiteline Anti-Lift Kit I had ordered the sub frame spacer kit to align the rear tires center in the wheel well but appears after the suspension settled, the tires have gone back to their original position. My question is, what do I need to center the rear tires to the wheel well? Trailing arm spacers? -
2005 Outback 2.5i How do I know which 02 sensors to buy based on my emissions decal? Federal vs California, etc...
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Im looking to purchase a 2011 Subaru Impreza 2.5i, however it, just like all automatic subarus before its time, is stuck with one of the worst automatic transmissions in the history of the planet. I also own a 1999 Nissan Altima, and it to has a 4-speed automatic. My question is, is it possible to swap in a 5speed transmission, like one found in the later legacy models, or is this a no go. I would like for the swap to be somewhat painless, obviously it will take some elbow grease and a few moments of pure frustration, but is it possible? Ive considered a manual, however, i just cant be bothered. I do a lot of highway driving and id love to just throw the sucker in drive and be on my merry way. -
Greetings Scoob experts, I have developed a misfire and am struggling to get a handle on what the issue is. Here's some background: The misfire is only really apparent when the car is idling and you can hear/see the engine stumble slightly, not a a lot, bu it's there. Every now and then a check engine light will be thrown with a 0301 code. As the plugs and ignition leads were due a change, they got changed. No difference. The coil pack got changed: no difference. I tested the spark of that cylinder against the block when running: they all appeared consistent in timing and strength. I did a compression test: all the cylinders came up the same strength and healthy (the head gasket and all seal had all been recently changed). So now moving onto the fuel system, I figured that by swapping two injectors I could determine it would be the culprit if the code shifted from 0301 to 0303 (i swapped cylinder 1 and 3 over). The problem is that the issue is so weak that the CEL won't activate to determine it. Any advice? Thanks in advance. -
Hello fellow Scoob owners! I'll cut to the chase: Impreza, 2.5i 2007 Sedan 150,000 miles. When I drive hard (ie hold revs to roughly 4000rpm), something will happen whereby when i begin to slowdown, or reduce revs, it begins to overheat, (even if i idle even when in motion). Maybe I'm being a little specific here, but it will begin to overheat. I got home and felt the lower rad hose (by the thermo) and it was cold. I then bled the system of air after and everything seems to be ok until I repeat the action again. The head gasket has been recently changed with all new seals and gaskets, along with thermostat and rad cap. I'm completely at a miss here, any ideas? Thanks in advance!
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Hey, is there any secret to installing the small rubber hose from the waterpump to the metal cooling line? It's very hard to get the rubber hose to slide on the metal line because the metal tube want to flex on the tabs that hold it to the block. Is there a Secret Lube to help it slide on? Trick? Thanks -
Hello, My question is this. Is there a certain mile interval in which head gaskets should be replaced even if they are not showing any symptoms of leaking etc? I have heard some people say do it at 100k whether it needs it or not. Thanks for any advise
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I am hoping for some positive news here..... I have a 08 2.5i Impreza 5spd manual with 135K miles. I bought the car used in 2010 and had to replace the clutch about a year ago (110K miles). The replacement was done by a Suby dealer. This was the first clutch I have ever replaced in any of my cars including previous VW (15+ years driving a manual). In recent weeks, my fiance has been taking my car to work. About a week ago, the yard at his job was a mud bog. He said the car was stuck about up to the frame. But he managed to get the car out (AHHHH SERIOUSLY). Earlier today he spent hours trying to get the car out of the snow/yard in PA. When I went outside, the car smelled like a pile of tires smoldering. A few hours later, I was going to go to the store and found out I couldn't. The car shifts into all the gears easily. But when in 1st or R and trying to drive, the wheels WON'T move. The rpms don't act like a slipping clutch though. There are no odd sounds either. I am floored that the clutch may be bad. I drove the car about 2 weeks ago for the day and the clutch seemed fine. It wasn't spongy, no odd noise when shifting and it seemed to catch fine. I am hoping there is something else that could be wrong. (PLEASE TELL ME THERE IS) But I don't expect this to be a cheap fix. Would 2x of trying to drive a car out of being stuck cause the clutch to go in a week? I would expect a diff to may be the problem. But would that keep the wheels from engaging? Any help or guidance is appreciated. -
I am nearly at my wit's end with my '09. 2.5i non-turbo. I bought it in January 2016 with 203,000 on it (All highway, original owner, full maint log, good shape, ran great). Noticed it had a significant oil leak from both heads (head gaskets, external oil leak) Pulled motor this fall, resurfaced both block and head with the manual block-sanding method, installed new gaskets, torqued as per specification, reinstalled motor. Noted oil on plug wires, replaced valve cover gaskets and got cheap auto-parts store wires* (we'll come back to this shortly), installed new NGK iridium plugs. Reset valve clearance to stock (was slightly loose by a few thou on most valves) Shortly after getting it back together it got a flashing MIL on hard acceleration (misfire codes on cyls 1 and 2 (P0301, P0302)). Didn't really feel the misfire however, it is very faint and only noticable under full throttle, light throttle to redline and you can't feel it, sometimes the mil will flash on part throttle pulls, but will ALWAYS on full throttle pulls.then the light goes out, only comes back if I push it over 4000 and over 1/2 throttle, enough of these will result in it staying on and getting the flashing cruise control (perm codes set) Figure well the coil is probably ancient, I just changed the wires, with the HG job, so lets replace the coil. NO CHANGE So I tried a new set of plugs (NGK iridiums) NO CHANGE So at this time I'm figuring that the ignition system is completely replaced (with the exception of the main ECU), I turn to fuel. clean out MAF (non-chlorinated brake cleaner + compressed air) NO CHANGE This one has an in-tank filter instead of the nice easy to replace one of the pre '05 models, so it was cheaper to get a junkyard pull full pump assembly instead of the fuel filter itself, so I got a pull from a car with 78k miles and install it, NO CHANGE So I figure, maybe the one I got has a clogged filter, so I rig up rube goldberg fuel pressure gauge I can watch while driving, 52 PSI all the time, even at full throttle pulls when the MIL flashes the misfire blues.. so it's not the pump or plumbing up to the engine. Googling seems to indicate a remote possibility of the timing belt being off by one tooth, so I drop the coolant, pull the radiator, and pop off the covers and double check, nope it's SPOT ON, and the tensioner is fine (not leaking) So googling some more seems to indicate all but OEM or NGK plug wires are garbage, so I order a NGK FX-101 set and install them (fits great), NO CHANGE Running out of things to replace. Only thing I can think is left is a possibly burnt valve, or a bad pair of injectors (that are flowing less than they should) Using my OBD-II tool (Obdlink-SX and OBDwiz) shows the misfire counts are highest on cylinder number 1, and about 1/4-1/6th as many on cylinder two, never any on cylinder 3 or 4. Was going to swap the 1&2 injectors to the 3&4 position next to see if the problem follows it.. Anyone else have any suggestions? I don't have a leakdown tool, but I'm sure amazon does, though the engine cranks evenly, so if it was down on compression it would typically be noticeable during cranking from the weak cylinder.. -- frustrated.... I really miss my '98 OBW with the 2.5 NA quad-cam -
I have an automatic Subaru impreza 2009 2.5i and I have discovered the manual mode, (The +/- in this image http://images.gtcarlot.com/pictures/47884906.jpg) and I have been using it for a while and I know how to how to upshift correctly it seems (I let the car downshift by itself) but I recently have been wondering if this is at all bad for the car. Will it ruin the car/wear it out more? I just find it more enjoyable to use while driving, shifting myself instead of just pushing a pedal, I am a college student and don't have a lot of fun throughout the day, doing this makes driving much more enjoyable for me. For anyone saying why I didn't get a manual, I am the youngest in the family and my parents bought this for my older sibling, my sibling no longer uses the car and I don't want to ask for a new car and don't want to seem ungrateful so I am using their car. -
I have a 2005 subaru legacy 2.5i automatic sedan. i was driving it today and pulled it into the driveway stepped out for a second and stepped back in. When i put the car in reverse gear it emitted a squeaking noise like a slipping belt. i immediately put it in park, and the noise went away. once again i put it into reverse and the noise resumed. all of this was with my foot on the break at a stand still. any ideas what it could be? Here's what it sounds like: -
So I was curious about doing an engine swap and from what people are telling me that I'm in over my head. My new question I need help with is I have an 09 legacy 2.5i. I want to put a turbo on it, what all do I need to do. Ive been told that it won't just bolt up without replacing every thing in the combustion chambers. -
Hey everyone from USMB, I have a few sensor questions as to what is what on my '07 2.5I SOHC EJ25. I have a couple pictures attached below. I have them color coated just to make it easier to look through. RED BOX is where the bracket that holds the camshaft position sensor is supposed to go and the cam sensor (and bracket) I have is broken which is shown in GREEN BOX. Lastly, the mystery sensor in BLUE BOX, (I'm guessing could be an oil bypass) I need it because the connector broke off. These parts are located behind the cam pulley on the driver side. I've spent the last couple days trying to research and find the mystery sensor and the bracket for the cam pos. sensor. I'm trying to find out what they are called, and I had no luck so far. I need to buy them so I can get my car running smoothly. of course, I had no problem trying to find the cam sensor itself, but it does not come with the bracket. It would be great to know where I can find these parts and what they're called. Thanks! Pat
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Hello, hello! I'm looking at a 2007 Impreza 2.5i Hatchback. I've never bought Subaru before so I'm asking for some guidance and help with my decision making. Are there any red flags I should consider before moving forward? Any typical problems I should be aware of during certain mileage markers? Any comments, positive or negative would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
