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Showing results for tags '2002'.
Found 20 results
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Hello, my garage is adding an aftermarket cruise control unit, John Gold GC55 (mechanical) to my SF Forester Turbo AT from 2002. There is a problem: he cannot locate the vehicle speed sensor wire anywhere in the car that gives the speed for the CC. Is this harder on an Automatic Transmission model? Can anyone help? Thank you! -
When it’s absolutely dumping rain, my car’s abs light will flash intermittently, usually relating to a hard stop, corner, or hitting some washboard roads. Now, after a big storm 2 days ago, the problem persists. If I crank the wheel, hit the brakes pretty hard or hit some good old Michigan potholes, the abs light will come on for maybe half a second, causing the radio to cut out. I don’t really know where to start. I’ve played with all the connectors and it won’t pop on at all. Anyone have any ideas of where I should start this goose chase? Thanks- CL -
My husband and I took my 02 Legacy wagon to a local Suby dealer to see what it needed to pass PA inspection. (It had passed when we first bought it used a couple of years ago, but we knew it'd need some work this time.) I was really bummed when the service writer told us that, in light of the CEL codes my husband reported reading, the engine is on its way out and it wouldn't even be worth their looking it over! My previous Suby, an '01 RS 2.5 which we bought new and had for about 14 years, had over 300K on it and was still running when we sold it. My Legacy just passed the 200K mark. My question: is there any way to know how long the engine will keep running, and is there anything we can do? It doesn't bode well when the Subie dealer doesn't even want to work on it. Not only do I love my Legacy, but we can't afford a new or even new-used car, right now! Here are the codes: 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304, 0172, 1137, 0457. Any advice would be most appreciated! -
I just purchased a '02 Outback LL Bean ed. with the 3.0L; I know with a heavy SW like the Outback it tends to sway and dip pretty good with aggressive turns and big dips, but I'm relatively sure it's time for a KYB strut upgrade project... I've heard rumors that Forester struts of some year models will be a direct bolt-in with the '02 OB and provide a stiffer ride/slight lift; has anybody tried this? What model of Forester struts do I need to fit into my OB? On a related note, if I decided to install the OB struts, is the strut spacer a viable option for achieving a similar lift? Trying to make mine look a little sportier and give some extra clearance/stiffer and more controlled ride. Thanks! Any recommendations appreciated... PS Does anyone with the H6 have the whiney power steering pump? I saw the easy fix with the 4 cylinder (the housing adjustment) but the H6 has a different configuration... I've heard maybe the O-ring in the PS fluid line is going bad and sucking air??? -
Vehicle is a 2002 Subaru Legacy Wagon 2.5 SOHC 5 speed. 220,000 miles. Problem would only occur after 30+ minutes of driving on a hot day, as of last week. Now it occurs as soon as engine is warmed up. Plugs, wires, fuel filter, and a million other things have all been replaced in the past couple thousand miles. Once the car warms up, I'm getting a terribly low idle and hesitation/jolting so bad it isn't even road worthy. It's so bad that I can barely get it into 1st gear sometimes. The car won't cut out, but seems pretty close to it most of the time. At idle, it revs up just fine. Could this be a TPS issue? Injectors? Fuel pressure? I don't see why it would only do this once fully warmed, it runs fine (seems a little slower than usual) until it warms up. There is no check engine light. In the past, it threw a code for IAC valve, but it went away once I cleaned it. Thanks guys. -
I have an 02 outback LL Bean 6 Cylinder 3 liter, turbo charged. I have a misfire on 6 Cylinder. Which cylinder is 6? -
I recently bought a used 2002 Outback LLBean. The paint has what my mom cause the Crackle Affect. The paint has very even little cracks everywhere. It kind of looks like an OCD artist decided to put 1/4 inch long key scratches in every which direction, about 3 per square inch. I knew it was this way when I bought the thing- I mostly am curious as to why this happens? I have seen a few other LLBeans with this same paint crack pattern. Any ideas? Thanks!
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G'day I have a 2002 Forester and today the driver's side window decided to remain in the down position (right side window; I'm in Australia). When i opened the window today the motor kept running after the window was down, and it wouldn't go back up again. When I try to use the switch to move the window it makes a whirring sound - like the motor is still operating but not grabbing anything. We've removed the interior door panel and tried to move the window by hand but it seems firmly in the down position. We've also tried using the window switch at the same time - again no luck. Over the last year the window has intermittently hesitated before operating when raising and lowering it. Possibly related? Does anyone have any recommendations for how to determine what has failed and how to fix it? Also, does anyone have a quick fix for how to get the window up again so I can drive it in the rain or park it somewhere unattended? Thanks! -
On idle, engine seams to completely want to stale because of boggs. also while driving down highway it seems like when i need to let go gas to reduce speed , when its time to finally give gas, i get wat i call " gas pedal kicks" seems to be a misfire p301 p302 p303 p304? I get the code p0172 too lean banc 1 (i know its the 02 sensor and have purchased one) after reading some older forums it seems like it wont make a difference? Im just looking for someone who had the same problem in the past to maybe shorten the spending spree i have changes plugs, wires, the coil, fuel filter and air filter no change, i also get po447 evap system valve open Any advice or knowledge???? -
Hello. I was looking at buying a 2002 Subaru hatchback for a daily driver. I found one that I thought was good but just a little unsure about some things. The car has 240,000 miles on the chassis with no rust. The owner has replaced the engine and its sitting at 80,000 miles. The car is surprisingly clean with only a few dings here and there. He has put on new brakes new shocks/struts, tires, turbo, and a new subframe. Is it worth buying or should I stay away? -
I have a 2002 Legacy Wagon with a bad crank bearing. Has 290k miles and had a HG at 218k. What year 2.2 engine will swap easily and any suggestions as to where to find a good 2.2 engine? Love this car and don't want to part with if possible. -
2002 Forester 5MT 210,000-km I am ready to replace my rear suspension struts. The FSM says to disconnect the rear brake-hose from the caliper, and to tape the hose out of the way. Is this necessary? I would prefer not to have to re-bleed the brakes after I've finished. So can I leave the brake-hose connected to the caliper, and just support the rear-axle and brake hub/rotor assembly? Will this give me enough room to remove and reinstall the strut? I haven't done Subaru struts before, so any help would be appreciated. -
So I just picked up my very first Subaru. Its a 2002 Forester L. Of course the jerk who sold it to me forgot to mention that the headlights don't work. I replaced the bulbs with new ones, and still nothing. If I "fiddle" with the drivers side bulb connector I can get both of the headlights to come on, but they are very dim. Oh, and the passenger brights come on... WTF?!? I checked the ground cleaned it off and it didn't change anything, also I squirted some dielectric grease one the headlight connectors because they're a bit corroded, drivers side is actually burnt a little bit too. I'm assuming the problem is bad three prong female connectors, but i'm confused on why both headlights turn on very dimly when I fiddle with the drivers side connector. Any tips/advice would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance. -
I have 2002 2.5RS and there are a few problems 1. The ABS Light is on and ABS is not functional at all what could it be? 2. Check engine is on and I can't run a code because there seems to be a short somewhere. I took it to autozone and when the code reader was connected to the OBD-II slot it wouldn't even power the reader. There are 2 exposed wires under my dash next to the green test plug. Maybe that is the issue but I can't find where they go. The Engine seems to run really smooth no knocks or anything. I suspect it is a fault with the gas cap. Please HELP!!! Thanks!
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I have a 2002 Outback sport. I began having hesitation problems about one year ago. The hesitation would only occur after a fuel fill up and last for about 1-2 minutes then gone. Did not occur at idle, only when driving. Now, I've been having the issue at varying fuel levels regardless of fuel fill up or not and the hesitation appears to be worsening. The Knock sensor has just been replaced with no improvement in the hesitation. I've suspected the fuel filter, water in the fuel, what else? Any thoughts? -
Quick question, I have a 2002 Subaru Outback sedan Automatic with the 3.0L but has a back read diff. and I was wondering if I could take a read diff out of a 2001 Legacy L which is also an automatic with the 2.5L and put it in the Outback. I know the bolts will match up I was just wondering about the gear ratios. I know that there's a difference between the Autos ans standards but wondering the same thing base models and Outbacks -
Hi guys, I'm new to this forum and would like some advice about the engine swap that will be getting done for my subaru pretty soon. I have a 2002 outback base 2.5l that I was pretty sure was a dohc when I first got it, and I havent checked the VIN yet to make sure since the car is at storage. Here is the question though, what would need to be done to make a DOHC work for a car that had a SOHC in it, because the engine is already on its way and it would cost way too much to send it back and get a new one. The engine I have coming is a 2005 ej254 DOHC 2.5l 16 valve with only about 65K miles on it, the engine block for my old engine is completely siezed up so replacing it is the only good option for me at this point, ill just scrap the old one or give it to someone who has the time to tinker with it. Any information would be very helpful , thanks. -
Hello, I have a 2002 Legacy L Wagon 5spd with 195k on it and it's in great shape, runs strong and I love it. I have put many hours into this car mostly in preventative maintenance (keeping the rust away is yearly task up here in SaltLand!). But anyway... my issue: A month or so ago I was pulling into a camping spot in some slightly off road conditions (which I do not normally do, I know it's AWD, but it's not a Jeep!). The place I was pulling into had shallow ruts and it was a very tight turn, and I had the steering wheel cranked all the way to the right and attempted to cross over the ruts and she stalled out because the front bumper cover hit a rock and I was being easy on the throttle. So, I was going to change my angle of approach and I backed up and tried again, and again, with the wheel pinned to the right, she shuttered, bucked and stalled out (remember, it's a manual transmission and I wasn't hammering the throttle). So, I then gave up on this way into the camp site and when I went to take off in first gear there was like this crunch, crunch sound coming from the front end. It was unmistakably a metal sound, so I thought maybe I was hitting a rock, so I got out of the car and looked under it to look for obstructions; and there was none. So I just shrugged my shoulders and continued on down the road. I started hearing like a "clack, clack" sound when I would let off on the throttle, and I thought maybe I broke a tooth on a CV joint or something. Later I noticed a whining when I got up to about 30 miles an hour, mostly when I let off on the throttle. It seems to go away when I give it throttle or am over 40mph. I showed a mechanic friend of mine the problem and he said not to worry about it... so I haven't been... UNTIL THE OTHER DAY! .... I was backing down a friend's dirt driveway and maybe going a little fast for being in reverse, but all of a sudden it just sounded like someone dropped a bag of ball bearings into my gearbox! It didn't entirely bind up tight (there were no skid marks) but it slowed way down, and as soon as this happened I threw the clutch in.... When I proceeded to back up, it seemed find again... It's been a week now, and it's still going, but has the whining and clicking sounds like it has since I broke whatever I broke. I will not be gunning it in reverse again! My question: what did I break, how can I fix it and how much longer do I maybe have until I will be without a ride? Has anybody else ever heard of anything like this or experienced anything like it? Any insight or direction would be appreciated. Thanks! Chris -
Last year I posted on here about my brake and battery light flashing on my dash on my '02 Outback. Everyone said it was my alternator. I took it to a shop and they confirmed and said my battery was bad too. So, they installed a new battery and alternator for about $600. Fast-forward to a couple weeks ago, my brake and battery light come on again, but don't flash. They just stay on. I decided it might be a fluke and just continue driving it. Nothing seemed wrong. Now, fast-forward to yesterday. I was driving from an appointment that was in a town about an hour away. I noticed something was wrong when I put the car in first gear and the radio shut off. I continued driving and notice my spedometer stopped working, basically everything stopped working. I was still able to drive about 15 miles close to home until my powersteering went out and I lucky pulled into an offroad. I looked under the hood to see what was wrong and found this: Any idea what could cause this to happen? This is the positive wire that connects to the back of the alternator. It appears to come from under the fuse relay box near the battery. It completely got fried off! So my questions are: 1) What could cause this to happen? 2) Does anyone have walk-through on how to install a new alternator. 3) What brand of alternator is the best? Should I get a re-manufactured or new one? -
Hi all, have had issues with my 02 plate GX (yep turbos are too much for me to handle ) which long story short I've narrowed down to being pre-cat o2 sensor - problem is all the tech manuals i can find are fairly vague about parts for the GX (it looks like it's the b*d child of every other model in the range!) so I can't quite work out the part number for the front lambda - any ideas? the ones suggested always seem to have the wrong connector (mine has a white box shaped connector) any help much appreciated
