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Showing results for tags '2003 Outback'.
Found 10 results
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after 17 years of ownership, today I discovered that the DS window defogger vent in our '03 OB can be flipped to direct upwards to the windshield!!! -
Hello! I have a 2003 Outback R Premium Pack 3GEN Auto AWD MY04, I have taken it to both an independent mechanic and the Subaru dealership in the town across from me. Both have come to the conclusion that the abs module/pump (part number 27596AG010) is stuffed. Subaru so far have been the only ones to have the solution but it comes with a hefty $6000 price tag and it's honestly worth more than the car itself at this point. I have had absolutely no luck in trying to track down an exact match for the module/pump combo, my mission today is to try and track down Bosch and see what they can do for it but my question for you guys, is there any difference between this 27596AG010 and this pump/module 27536AG010? Which I can find lot's of on the internet for about $150. They look similar in regards to where the holes and stuff are but I honestly have no idea what I am looking at. I have attached pictures of the one I have found vs the one currently in the car. Any help here is always appreciated! Thanks!
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I have to get an engine together for an 2004 Outback EGR 2.5L. The old engine has a hole in the case. I have a good short block from a 2002 Outback that doesn't have EGR heads so I want to remove the EGR heads and install them on my good short block. I figured it would be best to mill those heads and have any other necessary work done to them before installing on this short block. My question is which company provides the most dependable headgaskets? Cometic? Six Star? Suggestions? Any thoughts and suggestions from people who have learned what's the best route via personal experience? -
Good Evening, I just joined the forum, thank you for having me. I loaned my 2003 Outback to a friend in need recently. While he was driving on an exit ramp off the turnpike it broke down. No warning lights came on before or during the break down. He could not get it to start back up. Also, he says the dipstick was dry when he checked the oil after the fact. He put more oil in and towed it back to my place. Once I got it back to my block, I was able to get it started. However, it is making a very loud clacking sound once it starts. The engine seems to be running normal with the exception of this sound. The sound kicks in several seconds after the engine turns over. I took a video but am having trouble attaching. A friend with some mechanical experience thought it might be valve related after hearing it. Any thoughts or suggestions before I take it in. I don't have a trusted subaru mechanic in New York, my guy is in Virginia and before I tow it there myself I'd appreciate any insight anyone might have. Thanks! Ryan -
Good Evening, I just joined the forum, thank you for having me. I loaned my 2003 Outback to a friend in need recently. While he was driving on an exit ramp off the turnpike it broke down. No warning lights came on before or during the break down. He could not get it to start back up. Also, he says the dipstick was dry when he checked the oil after the fact. He put more oil in and towed it back to my place. Once I got it back to my block, I was able to get it started. However, it is making a very loud clacking sound once it starts. The engine seems to be running normal with the exception of this sound. The sound kicks in several seconds after the engine turns over. I took a video but am having trouble attaching. A friend with some mechanical experience thought it might be valve related after hearing it. Any thoughts or suggestions before I take it in. I don't have a trusted subaru mechanic in New York, my guy is in Virginia and before I tow it there myself I'd appreciate any insight anyone might have. Thanks! Ryan
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Hi, all, Need a little advice. This is a 2003 Outback Sedan with H-6 engine and automatic. One tire in front developed a ply failure and I bought 4 new, all were to the wear bars. I laboriously took off the fronts one at a time and carried them down to a tire shop for mounting, now the front axle has two new and the rears are down to the wear bars. Obviously the twin shafts coming out of the transfer case are going to spin at different speeds and the clutch in there will have to take up the slip. Asking at the dealership and they say do not drive it (only 10 miles to that garage) or I can wreck the clutch pack in there. In looking through the web I discovered a post where there is a fuse spot inside the front fusebox in the engine compartment, marked "FWD," and if you pop a fuse in there then the solenoid engages constantly and disconnects power to the rear shaft, thus converting the car to a front-wheel only. So I go look in the box and there aare no spade contact points ofr that fuse! Looks like SUbie decided not to include that wiring feature in the Outback Sedan. Is there some other way to wire up that solenoid? How risky is it to drive it over to the dealer with both shafts engaged (and presumably the sensors will disengage the clutch, maybe not). Or should I err on the safe side, jack up the car in my driveway, pull off one tire at a time, and do a ferry trip x 2 to finish the mounting? Which latter exercise is a real pain, already wrecked one jack when the car slipped and bent it to a pretzel. Oh, well. And, what provoked Subaru to not install the by-pass wiring into the front fuse box on this model? Sure would make life easier! -
This is a follow up to a thread from last week about replacing a front caliper and recommendations as to used, new, brand, etc. I started out with a garage that told me my front passenger brake was sticking, the cause of our 2003 base model outback 146k miles, pulling to the right. They recommended replacing the caliper, rotor, pads at about $600. I just did a $90 alignment and $550 worth of tires so wasn't in a position to spend another $600. I asked did they check the slide pins, they said yes that's not the issue. I declined and took it home and started looking for answers. I finally after having our garage snowed in, was able to pull the wheel, and examine the caliper today. One slide pin worked fine, the lower one was frozen. It took a pliers and brute force to move. Once out, the good one was lubed, the bad one was bone dry. Next once I got the pads out I found the backs of the pads against the pistons to be very rusted and the insides of the Pistons to be full of rust or dirt or both. One had rust inside, the other looked like a pipe that corroded down to 80% of its capacity. So from here, should I clean the insides with a wire brush maybe on a dremel, or just clean away the loose debri/rust, or replace the caliper. Nowhere locally can I find a rebuild kit that includes new pistons and we have all the major chains. Subaru tells me they discontinued caliper rebuild kits. I bought a new Subaru rotor, and pad set with the hardware. If not for the rust I'd be looking at a simple clean & lube I think. I'm still pretty new to this and not sure I'd be able to rebuild the caliper, if I could find a kit. I'd like to finish this up, today Tuesday the 21st here in eastern PA because I'm working in an unheated garage and it's supposed to get cold again on Wednesday. I've got a bad back & neck, so working in the cold is not good for it. Thank you in advance for any help & advice. Spiney-Dave -
My wife's 2003 base model Outback 2.5L Auto, AWD, U.S. model 146K miles. The front right caliper is dragging. Dealer says it needs replaced to the tune of caliper, pads, rotor( gouged ) about $600. I'm willing to tackle it myself. My question after determining it doesn't just need cleaned & lubed if I replace is there a good aftermarket caliper & rotor? Also recommendation for pads. A new Subaru caliper is $300. I can get a salvage yard caliper with 60K miles and 6 months warranty for $59. Is that a better option than the typical Autozone / Advanced caliper? I just saw that Rock Auto has remanufactured Subaru calipers by Cardone & Raybestos. Are these ok? My wife doesn't put a ton of miles on this car. She drives 90 miles to work, stays there for the week and returns home. So about 800 miles/month. Do I need to replace the left side which is operating just fine for balance? I need to get my wife back on the road soon. Also any tips for the replace & bleeding are appreciated. Thank you so much, Dave in PA
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What would you do? Looking for some advice / thoughts regarding my noisy Outback transmission. Car is otherwise in good working condition and runs well. I'd like to keep it as long as possible before replacing it. My 175K miles 2003 Outback transmission began whining about a year ago, and has gotten noticeably worse in the past 3 months. The noise occurs when there is a load on the transmission (i.e. acceleration but not coasting). There's another Forum post re transmission here at USMB that has a video / sound attachment to illustrate what a bad pinion sounds like...that's the sound I hear while driving. The transmission seems to function just fine...shifts well and smoothly as always, so I don't feel any urgency to fix it (today) but worry it could fail anytime. The transmission noise is not quite deafening, but it's getting there. I've taken the car to my local Lambs Automotive, Aamco, Cottmann Tranmission,and even the Austin subaru dealer and have a whole range of recommendations ($700 to open and then diagnose / repair ($$ unknown); replace with 113K used transmission and 6 month warranty ($3000), install used transmission from 2006 vehicle ($4425 at dealer). I have great trust in one of these repair shops as they have serviced / repaired my four vehicles over the past 15 years (Lambs). The others don't know me from Adam. Thanks in advance for whatever thoughts and ideas you can share. Happy 2016 to all. -
Found 2003 outback limited ed.280,000 mi.new heads alot of other work.body good.like 800 bucks.just thinking about the hi miles.etc..opinions
