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Showing results for tags '2006'.
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I have 2008 Outback LL Bean with auto climate control and recently, it stopped blowing any heat on the driver's side. I figured a clogged heater core was to blame, but before I dove into a flush, I decided to also check the actuators in the dash and see if they were working. I found that the driver's side actuator (72131AG27A) does not move when the hvac system is run through the positions and heat setttings. The passenger's side actuators, (three of them!) visibly move through the same hvac cycles. Figuring the driver's side actuator must be dead and stuck in the cold position, I've tried ordering the part, but have a hard time finding it. As of today, it's discontinued if I call a dealership. Some sites list it, but they cancel the order when they can't find it. Does anyone know if it's possible to repair a non responsive actuator? Is there another place to search for hard to find Subaru parts? Can I manually bypass the actuator to get heat? Any help is greatly appreciated. -
Hi all, I'm looking at purchasing an '06 OBW that had a JDM 2.5 ej253 installed a couple months ago. The seller sent me a video of it idling.: There's a weird slightly rhythmic clicking/clacking noise that repeats every 1.5 - 2 seconds. It doesn't seem tied to the RPMs of the engine though. Any thoughts? I have to drive 4 hours to see/pick the car up. Hoping to feel more secure before making the 8-hour round trip. Greg -
I have a 2007 Outback with manual non-heated seats. I also have access to a 2007 Outback with electric seats that are heated. The interior in my Outback is trashed and I want to swap the good interior from the broken car into mine. Has anybody dealt with installing seats that have wiring for electric and/or heated situations? I'm assuming that the entire wiring harness to some degree needs to be changed. Anybody that's been through the process could help me save time I'd appreciate it. All the love from Colorado! -
On our 2005 Outback, our backup lights have been collecting water during rainstorms. Usually it appears as heavy condensation or fog, but after a big rain when I open the tailgate hatch and remove the backup light bulb, water runs out of the assembly. So far it has not shorted out the electrical outlet. I searched the forums but had a hard time finding exactly this problem on this car, so I just want to provide some info and couple helpful links for someone down the road. This is not a difficult repair with basic tools, but do allow at least a couple hours, more like 3 or 4 if you take your time. It took me a long time because once I got the tailgate bezel off (the part where the backup lights are), there was a lot of clean up to do - and of course you want to take your time on a careful reassembly. Body panel clip removal tools are very handy, but not essential. Harbor Freight has a cheap set. I was careful, but still managed to break one of the clip anchors and two bolts. This necessitated getting creative with a different screw and anchor, which took a while to figure out. Both of the breaks were caused by the nut/bolt being rusty, and not loosing. You will need some silicone sealant for the lights themselves, and 3M Strip-Calk, which is about $17. The Strip-Calk is specifically made for assembling body parts and light housings, etc. This was originally described to me as, "Dumdum comes in 12 inch long string sections (like the very thin red licorice)". I also used a lot of 409 and paper towels getting everything nice and clean. I have noticed in the past that most leaks are associated with a build up of dirt and grim in hidden or hard to reach areas. This first video covers removing the interior panels. You do not need to remove the long horizontal panel above the window. Also, on the rubbery weather striping, the small white clips popped right out, which is better than separating them from the strip as Tony does. I taped the strip back in place so it would not be damaged if the tailgate closed. You need to unclip one electrical connector, which on my car was kind of a pain. In this second video, Bruce removes all those interior panels, but also the tailgate outer bezel with the reverse light assemblies. If you only have time for one video, watch this one. I think Bruce misses a set of nuts on each side of the tailgate bezel, far left and right. They are covered by skinny black panels, which I only partially removed (I could not budge the visible clip, but the hidden ones came right off). If you have removed all the 8mm nuts inside the tailgate and the bezel does not budge, look for those other four nuts. Besides using the Strip-Calk on each side of the light foam and around all the bolt hole locations, I put a strip along the rubber edge below the window, wear the bezel makes contact. That is the first place for water to enter under the bezel recesses. I used the silicon to seal all around the light assembly, where the clear part meets the black assembly. That should about do it. Time for a beer. -
Hey everyone - I have a 2006 Impreza wagon. Last oil change, the mechanic brought me over and pointed out this circular piece. Said it was leaking fuel, but that it might be easy to fix myself. My problem - I have no idea what it's called, where to find it and if it's safe to fix myself. I'm worried about any pressure build-up, etc. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for the help!
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Hello, I would like to get information from actual Legacy owners who have Bilstein B6 Struts & Shocks with either GT or Regular Legacy OEM springs. The questions I have are: 1. How does it ride? 2. Do you have any pictures of the car (before & after) installed. 3. Do these struts & shocks have any drawbacks? The KYB that are on it now are bouncy... I don't like them at all. Thank you -
Okay, it's a 2006 Legacy 2.5i Limited. I have owned this car for about a month and half or so. It has 99,500 on it. Today I am driving and the engine loses power/stalls, I try to restart it, with no luck. I get the car home and want to make sure the timing belt was moving properly. When I remove the small part (driver side) I see metal shavings. I could press the timing belt down at least a 1/2" and I know that not good. I was honestly feeling a little sick/kind of depressed. I let the engine get cold before draining the antifreeze. Remove all the stuff (belts, alternator, harmonic balancer etc) I take the remaining bolts out of the timing belt cover, and there it is, the Timing Belt Tensioner bolt had sheared off.... the tensioner was just floating it its area kind of... I know the timing had to have moved, if you see the picture with the belt, the clip is to show you where it was... According to Carfax the car had a cam seal(s) installed and Timing belt tensioner & Idler check on 10/10/16 @ 96,764 miles at a NON Subaru repair place in Round Rock, TX... I won't say who YET but they should have seen the tensioner leaking, and they of course didn't. Now what to do next... I don't want a junkyard engine because - You get someone else issue. Thoughts
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Hello, I was talking with a reputable engine builder about my engine EJ25. He told to to look at my Oil Pump housing number in the upper left corner. If it is a 7 or 9 he recommends getting a better pump. Either the 11mm or 12mm pumps. Has anyone ever heard of this? I'm going to talk with him today in detail to see what happens to these pumps.
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Hello, My question is this. Is there a certain mile interval in which head gaskets should be replaced even if they are not showing any symptoms of leaking etc? I have heard some people say do it at 100k whether it needs it or not. Thanks for any advise
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Hello, I am wanting to take out my Instrument Panel Pad. Has anyone ever did this? Is there a procedure for it anywhere? Thanks for any help, Mike
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Hello, I read a article from a builder that recommended using a water pump that cooled better because the fins were more closed off than most that you see. He said that with the Closed Fin style, the cooled was forced into a more narrow patch/direction, versus the open style with allows the coolant to kind of cavitate and stay stagnant. Do they make a Closed Style for the 60 Legacy 2.5i non turbo? Thoughts? See Images below
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Hello, I hope that this is the proper part of the forum to ask this question. If not, please point me in the correct area I need to do this. I was considering ordering one of these OBDII testers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-Diagnostic-Scanner-Tool-SRS-ABS-CHECK-ENGINE-LIGHT-OBD2-CODE-READER-SCAN-/171876308696 Do they really work? Do they cause any harm to the factory software? Thanks for any help you can give.
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Hello, Well this is my first post on this site. I purchased a 2006 Subaru Legacy 2.5 and few days ago with 98,000 miles on it. It needs a new a new battery (old one has a date sticker on it of (Nov 2012) When I take it out I don't want it to have to relearn, and loose things like radio setting, etc. I recently purchased a Schumacher DSR Pro Series Model INC-7A-OBD memory saver. http://www.batterychargers.com/inc-7a-obd/ I was wondering if this WILL or WILL NOT hurt my system? Thanks for any help you can give. Mike
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Hi all, I have a 2006 Subaru B9 Tribeca. It works pretty well for its age, but the most annoying part about the car is the fact that the keyless entry fob will only unlock the passenger and rear doors, and I must use the key to unlock the driver's side door. I've pored over the owners manual and haven't found anything-would anyone be able to point me in the right direction? Thanks -
Hey everyone i first post here. I am 99% Sure i am buying a 2006 FXT this Saturday. Just want to check to see what y'all think and if there is anything you recommend i check out. Details, it is a 2006 FXT with 88k miles. Fresh oem headgaskets and timing belt and tensioners within the last 1k miles. Only things wrong with it are a few stress cracks in the sun roof, and the current owner says he thinks it needs new struts. Plan is to pay 6200 for it we will see how that goes. Are there any common issues with these other than headgaskets and timing belts? What should i look for. Tell me what ya think. Thanks
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about 3 times now I have noticed an odd thing leaving for work in the morning. The right side headlight does not come on (drl) when I release the handbrake. One day, it stayed off for my entire 11 miles trip, another day it had a delay of about 1 or 2 seconds, then came on. This morning, it came on when I revved to leave my driveway (I have to reverse up an incline). This morning I was also able to confirm that the high beams work OK when this is happening. Also, the symptom persists if I use the stalk to switch on the low beams. When the light is off - no manipulation of handbrake or switches would make it illuminate. The problem 'seems' to be getting more common but - I have only seen it happen 3-4 times. I think i recently read that the 2 'sides' of the system may have different relays? maybe I could swap them? -
Hi all, Recently had a 2006 subie Legacy 2.5 non-turbo come into the shop with a noise coming from the transmission. We looked at it, found that there was an issue internally and suggested the lady put in a used transmission. While I was doing the transmission I also did the driver's side motor mount (it was leaking bad) and a new flywheel and clutch kit (Sachs). But after I put it together and the lady picked it up she got towed back into the shop ~2-3 weeks later with a completely smoked clutch >500 miles on that clutch. Now, under warranty, I put in another clutch kit and another new flywheel after inspecting the master cylinder and the line plus reservoir. Everything worked flawlessly on the hydraulic system side. After I completed the clutch (now the 2nd time) I took it for a test drive ~5-7 miles and smelt clutch bad. As well as when traveling ~40 mph and checking the clutch with the old clutch in, rev it to 5k and drop the clutch to see how fast the rpm's snap back, the clutch was slipping bad. Again. Ok, ok, third time my manger (who ordered all the part from the beginning) called up the dealer, and asked which flywheel is supposed to go in this car. The parts guy said it was a single mass flywheel (which I had put in a dual mass because literally every listing my manger could find said it called for a dual mass). The parts guy from the dealership said the dual mass goes only in the turbo models... Hmm...ok On to the install of the third time, I again do all the work, put on the SINGLE mass fly wheel and me and my manager looked over the clutch + pressure plate and decided to reuse them as there were no noticeable issues with them and the fact that that clutch had 5 miles on it (my previous test drive). I finished the clutch and took it for the same test drive. The clutch is still slipping, maybe 20% better then the 2nd time. My manager called up the dealer, ordered the factory clutch kit and I'm going to be putting that, along with the factory fly wheel in on Thursday 3/3/16. TL;DR Installed a new (used) transmission with a new dual mass fly wheel + clutch kit. Clutch still slipped installed a new clutch kit and dual mass fly wheel a second time. Clutch still slipped. Installed the factory single mass fly wheel and reused the clutch kit from second install (had ~5 miles on it). Clutch still slips. Will be installing the same factory single mass fly wheel + the factory clutch kit on Thursday 3/3/16. Will the clutch suddenly not slip? My question is. Why is the clutch slipping so much? There is no excess pressure being applied by the master cylinder and we have the correct fly wheel in there now. And as a note, my shop uses Sachs clutch kits for a long time and very very rarely have issues. So is the OEM clutch kit going to magically make this not slip? What else is there that could cause this issue? Anyone have any ideas just for me to look over on Thursday? -
Hi All, We've just created an in-depth tutorial on changing the oil on your EJ201 2007 Subaru Impreza. We thought the members of USMB would find it useful. Tools Required Socket Set Flathead Screwdriver (To remove clips) Trolley Jack and Axle Stands Oil Pan See the guide in full here! -
Hi everybody! I could use some advice . . . . . After my oil change the Valvoline guys had trouble getting my hood closed, and used a screwdriver to push down the hood-release cable. (it was sticking) Yes, they put the screwdriver through something they shouldn't have I had *just* had the coolant changed at the Subaru dealership because I'm aware of the typical head gasket issues. Mine is a 2006 EJ253, so I think it's low-risk, but it still pays to be cautious. So what was in my cooling system was the right stuff with the right additive (official Subaru stop-leak). Valvoline pulled off my radiator before realizing they actually had stabbed the air conditioning exchanger. So I've got my original radiator. I was *very specific* I didn't want any of their coolant in my car, but they topped it off with their product (probably XEREX) when they reassembled. * Is this going to be ok? They say Valvoline supplies Subaru's coolant. If that's the case, why shouldn't I just have them do it (giving them a bottle of the official additive to mix in) rather than pay 3x as much at the dealership? But if the Valvoline XEREX coolant isn't the right stuff, I'll probably be continuing to go to the dealer for that. My immediate concern is that I don't want the Subaru coolant/additive to react badly with the XEREX and plug my radiator or heater core. My long-term concern is that I want to not have to do a head gasket job on this car for a very long time if possible. Looking for some good advice from those who know these things! Thank you ~Nicole -
does anyone know what other year motor can drop into a 2006 Forrester x. my head gaskets are going bad at 242000 miles and I am looking for another motor from a wreck to rebuild and just be able to drop into the 06 when complete. I just need to know what other years have compatibility with the least headaches
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I bought an excellent 2006 Baja Sport from Kendall Subaru in Eugene in July 2015. I'm in Kansas now, but relocating to WA in Sep 2015. I hope to keep this car forever, so simple repairs and especially preventative maintenance stuff i can do myself will be my main interests.
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Hello Everyone I have owned my Baja for 2 years now with no significant problems. I have kept it well maintained, changing everything needed. As of late it started smoking from the exhaust and under the hood beneath the turbo where I think the manifold is...I took it to my mechanic ( whom I trust ). He told me that A. he thought it was the turbo going, and B. it needed a valve cover gasket. He said he wanted me to get a 2 nd opinion because the turbo is a big job. So I took it to another place where they have a Subaru mechanic and he said that he saw no indication of turbo issues. I then took it back to my mechanic. He changed the valve cover gasket. It still smoked. So I took it back again, and he said that there was something adjacent or behind the valve cover gasket and he fixed that. He told me to drive it for a week to see if the oil would burn off and if not bring it back... It is still smoking...maybe not as much...I am not quite sure yet. Today I took it about 45 miles and it didnt smoke until I was 1/2 mile from home. I am beside myself. NO loss of oil, always full, no idiot light...nothing... Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Thank you. -
Subaru Legacy 2006 automatic Just did a lot of work on my Subaru, timing belt, water pump, head gaskets. Today put everything back, plugged everything back, all the wires and grounds too (rechecked). Tried to start the car but nope, On the odometer says "ER HC". (High Speed CAN communication error) Did a lot of research on it hoping to find something and so I wouldn't have to post in here, but literally nothing! No one fixed this issue yet except the dealers. Found some topics related to the ECU connectors and stuff like that, but no legit answer This is the best thing so far that I found and planning to try this tomorrow: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/n9320h/2010-07-16_222648_sub.pdf maybe somebody faced this issue before and knows how to solve it? I really hope so.. Thank you. -
I recently bought a 2006 outback , the car has had front end damage before . That doesn`t bother but the two not matching headlights do. In the passenger side they have one with the black background and the drives side is chrome. I don`t mind either one but can someone tell me what to order to get a mate to either thanks for now
