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Showing results for tags '2008'.
Found 20 results
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Metallic Dark Gert IMPREZA Gen 3,Hatchback, 2008, EJ20, 150 hp 2.0 l - 5sp MT no mods, upgrades nor tuning done before me. Bought from GA BIL, Eskilstuna, september 2024. 23500 km. Approx 4000$. Before this car I havent changed tires on my cars, now I wanna custom and tune this car to be healthy and full of life. I believe in the combustion engine and strive to learn about it. GOAL/AIM: custom and tune my impreza so it, with regular maintenance, can be driven beyond 40k km.
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I have 2008 Outback LL Bean with auto climate control and recently, it stopped blowing any heat on the driver's side. I figured a clogged heater core was to blame, but before I dove into a flush, I decided to also check the actuators in the dash and see if they were working. I found that the driver's side actuator (72131AG27A) does not move when the hvac system is run through the positions and heat setttings. The passenger's side actuators, (three of them!) visibly move through the same hvac cycles. Figuring the driver's side actuator must be dead and stuck in the cold position, I've tried ordering the part, but have a hard time finding it. As of today, it's discontinued if I call a dealership. Some sites list it, but they cancel the order when they can't find it. Does anyone know if it's possible to repair a non responsive actuator? Is there another place to search for hard to find Subaru parts? Can I manually bypass the actuator to get heat? Any help is greatly appreciated. -
Like the title states - I have a 2008 Impreza (auto trans) with a cruise control problem. After about 5 to 10 minutes of driving the cruise stops working and the "cruise" light flashes until I turn the car off. Wait few minutes for it to reset. Wash, rinse & repeat. I've read several other threads with similar symptoms. But mine -There's no check engine, or other idiot lights in conjunction with... Plugged my scan tool in anyways (just in case) and it says everything is ok. Clearly not. Any Ideas? Thanks! -
I have a 2007 Outback with manual non-heated seats. I also have access to a 2007 Outback with electric seats that are heated. The interior in my Outback is trashed and I want to swap the good interior from the broken car into mine. Has anybody dealt with installing seats that have wiring for electric and/or heated situations? I'm assuming that the entire wiring harness to some degree needs to be changed. Anybody that's been through the process could help me save time I'd appreciate it. All the love from Colorado! -
On our 2005 Outback, our backup lights have been collecting water during rainstorms. Usually it appears as heavy condensation or fog, but after a big rain when I open the tailgate hatch and remove the backup light bulb, water runs out of the assembly. So far it has not shorted out the electrical outlet. I searched the forums but had a hard time finding exactly this problem on this car, so I just want to provide some info and couple helpful links for someone down the road. This is not a difficult repair with basic tools, but do allow at least a couple hours, more like 3 or 4 if you take your time. It took me a long time because once I got the tailgate bezel off (the part where the backup lights are), there was a lot of clean up to do - and of course you want to take your time on a careful reassembly. Body panel clip removal tools are very handy, but not essential. Harbor Freight has a cheap set. I was careful, but still managed to break one of the clip anchors and two bolts. This necessitated getting creative with a different screw and anchor, which took a while to figure out. Both of the breaks were caused by the nut/bolt being rusty, and not loosing. You will need some silicone sealant for the lights themselves, and 3M Strip-Calk, which is about $17. The Strip-Calk is specifically made for assembling body parts and light housings, etc. This was originally described to me as, "Dumdum comes in 12 inch long string sections (like the very thin red licorice)". I also used a lot of 409 and paper towels getting everything nice and clean. I have noticed in the past that most leaks are associated with a build up of dirt and grim in hidden or hard to reach areas. This first video covers removing the interior panels. You do not need to remove the long horizontal panel above the window. Also, on the rubbery weather striping, the small white clips popped right out, which is better than separating them from the strip as Tony does. I taped the strip back in place so it would not be damaged if the tailgate closed. You need to unclip one electrical connector, which on my car was kind of a pain. In this second video, Bruce removes all those interior panels, but also the tailgate outer bezel with the reverse light assemblies. If you only have time for one video, watch this one. I think Bruce misses a set of nuts on each side of the tailgate bezel, far left and right. They are covered by skinny black panels, which I only partially removed (I could not budge the visible clip, but the hidden ones came right off). If you have removed all the 8mm nuts inside the tailgate and the bezel does not budge, look for those other four nuts. Besides using the Strip-Calk on each side of the light foam and around all the bolt hole locations, I put a strip along the rubber edge below the window, wear the bezel makes contact. That is the first place for water to enter under the bezel recesses. I used the silicon to seal all around the light assembly, where the clear part meets the black assembly. That should about do it. Time for a beer. -
Hello, I would like to get information from actual Legacy owners who have Bilstein B6 Struts & Shocks with either GT or Regular Legacy OEM springs. The questions I have are: 1. How does it ride? 2. Do you have any pictures of the car (before & after) installed. 3. Do these struts & shocks have any drawbacks? The KYB that are on it now are bouncy... I don't like them at all. Thank you -
Okay, it's a 2006 Legacy 2.5i Limited. I have owned this car for about a month and half or so. It has 99,500 on it. Today I am driving and the engine loses power/stalls, I try to restart it, with no luck. I get the car home and want to make sure the timing belt was moving properly. When I remove the small part (driver side) I see metal shavings. I could press the timing belt down at least a 1/2" and I know that not good. I was honestly feeling a little sick/kind of depressed. I let the engine get cold before draining the antifreeze. Remove all the stuff (belts, alternator, harmonic balancer etc) I take the remaining bolts out of the timing belt cover, and there it is, the Timing Belt Tensioner bolt had sheared off.... the tensioner was just floating it its area kind of... I know the timing had to have moved, if you see the picture with the belt, the clip is to show you where it was... According to Carfax the car had a cam seal(s) installed and Timing belt tensioner & Idler check on 10/10/16 @ 96,764 miles at a NON Subaru repair place in Round Rock, TX... I won't say who YET but they should have seen the tensioner leaking, and they of course didn't. Now what to do next... I don't want a junkyard engine because - You get someone else issue. Thoughts
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Hello, I was talking with a reputable engine builder about my engine EJ25. He told to to look at my Oil Pump housing number in the upper left corner. If it is a 7 or 9 he recommends getting a better pump. Either the 11mm or 12mm pumps. Has anyone ever heard of this? I'm going to talk with him today in detail to see what happens to these pumps.
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Hello, My question is this. Is there a certain mile interval in which head gaskets should be replaced even if they are not showing any symptoms of leaking etc? I have heard some people say do it at 100k whether it needs it or not. Thanks for any advise
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Hello, I am wanting to take out my Instrument Panel Pad. Has anyone ever did this? Is there a procedure for it anywhere? Thanks for any help, Mike
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Hello, I read a article from a builder that recommended using a water pump that cooled better because the fins were more closed off than most that you see. He said that with the Closed Fin style, the cooled was forced into a more narrow patch/direction, versus the open style with allows the coolant to kind of cavitate and stay stagnant. Do they make a Closed Style for the 60 Legacy 2.5i non turbo? Thoughts? See Images below
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Hello, Well this is my first post on this site. I purchased a 2006 Subaru Legacy 2.5 and few days ago with 98,000 miles on it. It needs a new a new battery (old one has a date sticker on it of (Nov 2012) When I take it out I don't want it to have to relearn, and loose things like radio setting, etc. I recently purchased a Schumacher DSR Pro Series Model INC-7A-OBD memory saver. http://www.batterychargers.com/inc-7a-obd/ I was wondering if this WILL or WILL NOT hurt my system? Thanks for any help you can give. Mike
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Hey all, so I would just really like some opinions and insight from people such as yourselves that have much more knowledge about these cars than I do. So I have been looking and doing research for quite some time now on the next Subaru for me. I have ruled it down to the 07-09 Legacy's, due to personal preference on styling and looks as well as available options. I have recently come across two opportunities to purchase a 2008 model, however I can not decide which would be the best option. The first one is a LTD model with 220k on it with many new parts and services done for $8995. I went and test drove this one, and it ran strong aside from some delay in the auto transmission when you step on the pedal, however some amount of delay is to be expected, I'm not sure how apparent or common it is for this vehicle. You can see it here, with all the parts and services below the pictures: http://roosales.com/2008-legacy-ltd-sedan-coming-soon-2/ The second one is a GT model with 90k on it for $10995 that you can see here: http://www.apxautobrokers.com/2008_Subaru_Legacy_Lynnwood_WA_7447565.veh Now if this was anything besides a Subaru, the obvious choice would be the one with 90k miles because why buy a car with so many miles when there is another option with fewer miles for only a small amount more. However, due to the fact that Subaru's are known to last basically forever as long as you take care of them, I find myself having a difficult time making a choice. Another reason that I am at a bit of a crossroads, is that I have heard of turbochargers failing on Subaru's before, which costs a lot of money to repair. Is this a common issue with the 2008 Legacy's? Or is it more of just a myth? I would just really like some opinions and insight from people such as yourselves that have much more knowledge about these cars than I do. Thank you for your time! -
The blower fan in my 2008 Subaru Outback starts freezing up when it's about 0 degrees outside. After I drive it for 10 or 15 minutes, the blower comes on and works very well. Until it comes on, I can't defrost the windshield and it's pretty darn cold. I'm not sure if it's really frozen or what the actual problem is. Note, I live in Fairbanks, Alaska, so we'll be seeing temps like this for the next several months. -
Hey all I just bought a used motor with about 60,000 miles on it to replace mine with a thrown rod. It's a 2008 2.5i Impreza, non-turbo. Replacement motor went through a compression test and was said to have good compression. We replaced all the timing components, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, and clutch. Went to turn it on and the motor wouldn't turn over on it's own. The starter spun the flywheel like it was supposed to but nothing happened. We then checked the fuel lines to make sure it was getting fuel pressure and it was. Then checked spark plugs and verified that we are getting spark as well. Motor still won't turn over. Can anyone help? I can give more info as needed. Thanks in advance! -
Okay....so this is general question, really more of a survey. Has anyone experienced a complete lack of shifting in a 4EAT equipped 2008+ Legacy after a TCU software "update"? The car in question is a 2008 legacy sedan w/4eat. With a recently installed Subaru optional Remote start setup. I physically installed the remote start kit. Excactly according to instructions down to last detail. The key fobs were "talking" correctly to the box. Put the unit through the Idle speed programming. Checked all key fobs chirped the system, brake pedal canceled, etc......Every step of the instructions followed and checked out good. The only step I did not complete to finalize was the "interlock transmitter" code program. To those not familiar, this model and all newer have a RF chip in the key, so that even if the ignition is physically turned, the engine will not start without the proper key with RF chip matching that car. The reciever is built into the ignition cylinder. Now, obviously for remote start there is no key present....that's were the interlock transmitter comes in....it has an antenna that loops around the ignition cylinder, and after programmed emits a mimic signal of the RF chip to allow starter engagement. Basically fools the system into thinking there is a key present. This programming can only be done using Subaru Select Monitor computer/softwware (SSMIII) which I don't have..also requires all keys. and the RF code.....which we do have since the car was purchased by us brand new. So....we make an appointment with delaership where the remote starter kit was purchased. Appointment 1 week out....no problem, car starts and drives normaly with no CEL or other issues when started with regular key. Drive car for one week in the mean time....no problems whatsoever.........drop it off for programming on a friday......when we get the car back wednesday of the following week.....the remote start has been programed and now fully functions. Here's were it gets weird. For some reason, the dealership says their tech "had to" reflash the TCU software with an update. And now the AT temp light flashes, CEL and CRUISE, traction control, and ABS lights all on. Dealer says "it's just the lights, car drives fine" but claims both the TCU and the transmission valve body need replaced....cost, $1950 dollars!!!! He then say's if the TCU does fail further the car will not drive and we will be stuck "like it's in Nuetral or park" I know this to not be the case. Default from loss of electronic control is 3rd gear mechanical operation...but I don't bother to correct him....I just want to get the car out of there. I am very suspect. we take the car home......from the first minute driving I can tell the trans is in "limp" mode. 3rd gear only. I confirm this with "sport mode" trying to manually select gears to no avail. So the car is screwed up bigtime. I am refraining from posting any further information on the dealer, the alterations to they made that deviate from subaru install instruction, and a few other infuriating tidbits until the SOA representative I called can try to remedy the situation through said dealer. (SOA rep listened attentively, and seemed genuinely interested in helping) So for now I am just wondering if anyone else has had trans issues immediately following a "TCU" software update or a remote start install. I will note that I've confirmed with other, trusted dealer techs that TCU update should not have been needed for a simple RF interlock transmitter programming. Discuss -
Hey everyone! New to the forums but I thought I would start out with a great mystery for everyone that I still can't seem to figure out I have a 93 Legacy L, just a hair over 200K and just did an oil change and a battery pull roughly 30 miles before this incident. I'm driving about 4 miles, cold car, doing a little under 30mph. My AC is on but engine temp is low and no cel or anything. I slow to turn and clutch in to shift into second, when I suddenly lose power steering part way through the turn! I safely pull over and notice CEL, Battery, and maybe one other light (Oil?), I really can't remember because I shut it off so quickly. I stood there for 20 minutes just inspecting the engine trying to figure out what could possibly cause all those symptoms. Turned the AC off and it started up like nothing had happened and drove the 1/2 mile home. The idle was erratically low but it has been all week because of the battery negative pull. The car is also showing no data for the check engine either. Now I know my negative terminal clamp needs to be replaced, but if it fell off it would be totally dead and not partial. All fluids were normal, no power steering leaks, and the belts were perfectly fine (no burnt smell either indicating seized AC compressor). I've heard suggestions of an alternator, but the alternator is somewhat new and tests fine for voltage. I really have no other problems with this car besides a chattery clutch when cold So here's where it gets weird...This was my dad's car previously (Bought New), and he said it's done this once or twice randomly before with the exact same symptoms and no lasting effects or symptoms. Now he also owns an 08 Outback that he claims has done this once before too, which adds to my utter bafflement. Now take his claims with a grain of salt; I wasn't there and it they could have been different enough to just be another matter entirely, but still odd nonetheless. I've been over this a thousand times and I just can't make heads or tails...If anybody has any insight it would be greatly appreciated! Hopefully I didn't break any rules already by making such a huge wall of text, but thank you all for reading/submitting, and I look forward to posting some of my own responses around here in the future! -
The blower for the heater/AC on my son's 2008 Impreza WRX (non-STI) stopped working. No fan or air movement at any setting. It's the automatic climate control version. I checked all related fuses in driver side interior fuse block. They're good. He says the fan surged a couple of times during use so he turned it off. The next time he turned it on, nothing. Where should I look next? Thanks. Tom -
Hi, I have an 08 STI and I am not digging the fog light set up one the front bumper and was wondering if anyone has or knows if its possible to fit a newer front bumper on the car with the updated fog lights.
