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Showing results for tags '2WD'.
Found 10 results
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I have a 1990 Subaru Loyale for sale, asking roughly $1200 for it. It was my daily driver (100 miles/day) and I'm looking to offload some vehicles. You can contact me via text messaging at (803)-609-3204. SMS is the best way to contact me..thumb.jpg.2cf67f439f963c3ccacd96c4b1de0497.jpg)
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I'm looking to replace my suspension. Nothing fancy, just correct parts ordered the first time. I have a 2wd 87 3door and I think it's struts all around... I think. Can anyone help me with some direction to a good website to get these struts?
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So I'm working on this project with my 1984 EA81 DL wagon. Attempting to swap in an EJ22 and the transmission from the same car, 5sp 4MT. I'm having some trouble figuring out how to mount the trans. I can cut out the tunnel but even so, I'm puzzled on how to attach the trans. I could use the EJ22 crossmember with the front sway bar removed. Any thoughts? -
Hi there, My Subaru Lancaster (same as Outback) has just died, I can't get it to go further than a couple of kms and don't want to try as it has a few engine lights coming on and revs keep dropping etc. My main question here is how can I tow it? I know the recommendation is to put it on a flatbed but that will cost a lot, I have also found a video showing me how to insert a fuse to change it to 2 wheel drive. If I do this can I tow it with all wheels on the ground? The distance to the mechanic is about 15km. Cheers -
So I bought a gorgeous 2wd hatchback and everything on it is goorgeeeeous to a fault. Consistently maintained, no major rust, interior is nice, gearbox is working well, oil and coolant leaks are minor and under control. Dedicated picture thread for the car coming soon so I can show her off. The brakes, however, have not agreed to age so finely. The car takes some coercion to stop, to a degree I consider unsafe around contemporary cars. The current master cylinder outputs force at a rate equal to the force of my foot on the pedal. I have strong legs but the car is still 2500 pounds. I want to do the following: New rotors Bigger calipers, under 14 or 15 inch alloy rims The nastiest brake fluid I can buy A more robust master cylinder Potentially even new lines R1 concepts can build new old-gen Subaru-spec rotors to order, and I've heard that they're pretty well made. Any other parts suggestions that will fit without major hub modifications?
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My '84 GL Wagon (2WD) has blown out the driver's side ASV,become difficult to start, and sooted up that side of the engine compartment. Anybody have one for sale or know a work-around? Thanks, Geoff in Georgia
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howdy all, am going to try and resurrect my 83 wagon which has been sitting since 2008. (i have spent time poring over previous pertinent threads seeing if this has already been adequately addressed, but did not find what i am looking for) when last running, "olive" had developed a problem in which she would fire up and idle just fine, but had no power and would not accelerate beyond a crawl. i am no mechanic, back in earlier days i learnt how to replace the clutch, axles, steering knuckles, but not much beyond that, my pal joe, who gave me olive, and i spent three hot days trying three different c-w carbs to see if we could affect a cure, but gave up, i left her parked and jumped on my bicycle and the bus for a few years until i found an 84 2wd sw ("silver car") locally for $800, which served me beyond the call of duty until she blew a head gasket on the james river parkway south of springfield, coming back from the eastern ozarks sunday evening. i managed to limp silver car adding water every 15 miles to get to the oklahoma border and within range of a free AAA tow back to tulsa (the gasket blew a hole between the water jacket and the exhaust, so no water in oil yet, but there is something knocking, perhaps a lifter, when started). anyhow, the next door neighbor came over having heard the tow truck come in and offered his services as a shade tree wrencher, since olive was sitting back in back with the mysterious ailment above mentioned, he thought it would be cheaper and easier to get her running again rather than trying to fix silver car which will need the engine pulled regardless. he spent the last two afternoons working on olive, he established that the fuel pump was working and fuel getting through the filters to the carb, and has dissasembled both c-w carbs and found the accelerator pump diaphragms on both to be rotted/perforated and thinks that may be the source of the no power/stall issue. am now waiting for surfside aauto parts to call about a new accelerator pump i ordered yesterday. meanwhile, the reading i have done on this board leaves me with the impression that the carter weber is a problematic unit, and i never did get very good gas mileage out of it, whereas the hitachi on silver car, even in the neglected state i allowed her to be in had delivered 28 mpg on the tank i used getting over to the ozarks. ok, so enough background ramble, the thesis question is, can i switch carbs from the 84 to the 83, and what all is involved? there is extensive documentation about fitting ea81 with SPFI, but i do not have interest or locally obtainable resources for that, but i do have both cars. i am thinking the dizzys may be paired to each carb, but are the manifolds and wiring different? as the carter seems to be a problem, and the hitachi seems to deliver better mpg and is much more widely available, i think the detailed discussion may be of use to others in the future. finally there is the chance that another part/function/system other that the fuel/carburetor may be the problem causing the idle fine but no get up and go that i last experienced when i parked olive six years ago. please help, this is not a leisurely project, being broke down right now is extremely destablising, i have had a challenging year of transition, and have only began to get on my feet, as recently as three weeks ago experienced being flat broke for the first time in years and really need to be able to get around to take care of some pressing tasks. i had planned to be spending this week running loads and assembling a multi ton uhaul load of vintage records to haul up to kansas. the title says it all in a nutshell, but i am also looking for insight about the c-w, i am so hoping just replacing the accelerator pump will fix the issue. thanks for any reply, and for being here to ask! -
So i just bought a new gl wagon because i was given a price i could not refuse for a car that was worth double if not triple what i paid. The only issue i have with it is that it does not have 4wd which is a total bummer. Is there any way to convert this beast of a car to 4wd? im planning on lifting it already so the clearance shouldn't be an issue but please correct me if i'm wrong
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I just bought my first subaru, It is a 1988 Subaru GL-10 Turbo 1.8L 2wd Sedan, I would like to start doing some small modifications to the car, and slowly build the car up. I have enough stock parts to build this car over a total of 4 times (minus complete motors, transmissions, and shells, I have extra body panels and a ton of etc parts) Basically i was wondering for first of on this list of mods: 5 Lug conversion Lowered suspention Blow off valve Front mount intercooler adjustable boost controller w/ boost gauge catback exhaust anything to add some small horsepower without breaking the bank too badly, or to make the car more reliable. please if somebody could start me off in the right direction that would be great, i just finished all of the body work to the car, now i am eager to start modding! -
Modifying the Rear Spindle's Locking System (for Front wheel Drive -2WD- EA82 Subarus) _________________________________________________________________ When is Needed to do Service on Ball Bearings or Brake Pads / shoes on the Rear wheels of a Front Wheel Drive -2WD- EA82 Subaru, you'll notice that the Drum / Disc is held in place by a simple Nut which is prevented from spin freely by a Locking twistable Washer that Locks everything, and with time and repeated Twistings on and off, such washer trend to Break. Sometimes is even worse, the worn Washer Breaks / Fails \ Loosens the Nut while the Car is in Motion and it Makes the Bearings to Loose its tightness and can lead to a Huge Bearings Fail, Damagin' the Spindle and even it can lead to Loose a Wheel and Make a Huge Fat Crash... So, I Decided to get rid of the Washer Locking System, for a More Safer Option: I installed a Safer "Castle" Nut instead of the regular Nut, and I Drilled a Transversal Hole to the Spindle, where the castle nut settled, to Cross both the Castle Nut and the Base with a twistable Nail. Images Worth thousands of Words... See: Drilled the Transversal Hole on the Spindle, and placed the New Castle Nut Closer Perspective: Already with the Nail Crossed and Twisted: Finally, with the Original Cap ...... it Works Great! Finding a Castle Nut with same Thread and with Small Width to fit there, was very hard, I Found mines on an aftermarket store; the salesman told me they belongs to the steering arms of a '97 impreza ¿ ? I Hope this Idea Could Help Many FWD Subies Owners ... ... Kind Regards.
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