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Showing results for tags '3at'.
Found 9 results
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I have an 87 XT turbo coupe. As far as I know it has the 3AT, I've heard the 3AT can handle a fair amount of power increase. What I'm wondering is how much power I can add to my EA82T before it becomes too much for the tranny. I'm also curious, if I reach my goal of getting my EA82T to 150-160 HP, how much more top speed and how much shorter 0~60 time will I end up with using the stock 3AT tranny? I have dug up various articles on the XT, back in 87 it was rated for 115 top speed and a 0~60 time of about 9 seconds. I don't know if those numbers were with the auto or the manual, but i would like to know what kind of improvement I might see with the 30 extra HP. Thanks in advance.
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Hey super new. And there is probably a good forum you can point me to. But here is the issue I am having with my 1989 FWD GL. I just bought the car it has 100,000 miles and looks to be in ok condition. While driving it I noticed it was slow going in and out of gears and had a lot of trouble in reverse. When in reverse It would rev and slowly back up like a boat then it would get more traction and be fine. NBD I thought, it was old and cost me a couple of hundred bucks and when it goes bad I’ll put some hair on my chest and learn a bit more about cars. Lol. The next day while driving the transmission decides that going into gears isn’t cool. Press down on the gas and it revs like it’s in neutral. I check the fluids. (Which I promise I was going to do that that day.) Everything looks good except the ATF is empty. That can’t be good. So I fill it to proper levels at proper temps. Shift through the gears. Drain, clean the atf filter and pan. Refill. The car still doesn’t move. It’s not leaking any atf. Not a drop. So after some research I have a few ideas. Governor gear getting apple cored. Vacuum Modulator sucking atf into the engine and burning it. or A host of issues that all at up to transmission says no. THANKS IN ADVANCE!
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I have an 85 Brat with the 3AT. I also have an 89 GL parts car with a 5 speed D/R. I want to put the 5 speed into the brat but, I have to get rid of the GL by this weekend, so i wanna pull the transmission and other stuff I need. My question is what do I need to pull from the car for the swap? If the list is somewhere on here just post the link. If not please help!
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picked up a great '87 GL wagon with only about 30k miles on it last winter. engine was pretty clean, no real fluid leaks, was working great till a couple months ago. when i started her up cold, and just pulled away from the curb, she wouldn't shift into 2nd gear unless i let her warm up a little, and run through the gears a couple times while still parked. after that, she'd shift fine and the problem wouldn't happen again till she's parked and cold. this car's body is in pretty good shape, has manual locks and windows and runs great otherwise, sans some front end alignment that needs to be adjusted and i hope to drive her into the next century so really looking at getting to the bottom of this. seems like the trans fluid isn't circulating until it's warmer and thinner, possibly? gonna drain it and put in a new filter and new fluid, WHAT TYPE AND HOW MUCH, EXACTLY, do you use? maybe as treatment fluid of some kind can be added w/ the new fluid? heard a few different answers and suggestions, but can always count on the USMB for delivering the best advice. thanks, Glen.
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So I've got a 92 loyale with a rebuilt 1.8 and the stock 3AT tranny pb4wd. The engine seems fine other than some valve chatter I've been to lazy to fix but the 3at is getting sketchy. It's left me stranded a few times and it gets -60 here so no good. I'd love do drop in a 5 speed d/r but haven't found one yet and frost is on the ground so I'm down to what's at the landfill. I can pull whatever parts from a 90s? Legacy sedan, 91 loyale with a sloppy 5speed, or the only one that's in any remotely decent shape; a 84 GL with a 4speed or MAYBE a 5 speed not sure as I didn't get a chance to mess with it much. So is it feasible to swap out the 3at for a ea81 4 or 5 speed? So fare on here I haven't found a thread with much on the subject. I know the 4speed isn't as good as an ea82 5speed but the 5speed in the 91 loyale is very sloppy and goes into gear with out the clutch so I'm assuming it's toast. Should I just deal with the 3at till I can find a good 5speed d/r? Swap in the questionable 5speed from the 91? Try to use the ea81 tranny? I also plan to do a 4" lift and maybe a EJ engine swap if that matters.
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So the 3at in my 92 loyale is slowly going up the creak, engine has some valve and leaks some oil but is mostly still good. Now all I have access to for parts cars are an 91 loyale and an 84 GL. The 91 loyale was drivable a few months ago but the tranny seemed sloppy, the 84 GL while not ideal has dual range so I'm tempted to put its 4speed in my loyale. I hear the 4speeds suck though so I'm wondering is it worth it for D/R or should I use the 91s 5speed? This car is already slow so I'm not worried about that, maybe an EJ swap in the future when my engine nukes. It's a daily/ATV and the trails around me are extremely crap due to the Florida like rain we got this year. This is why I'm really set on the D/R. Even if it's a harder swap and needs brackets built, not to much of a problem. So anyone have a rightup on this type of swap? Found lots about putting a 5speed in an ea81 but nothing about a 4speed d/r into a ea82.
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I have a front wheel drive 3-speed Automatic 1988 Subaru DL Recently I had the ol' "doesn't shift in drive!" issue that is notorious in this transmission in particular. (My story goes like this one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/158122-3at-problems-in-86-leone-turbo/) I replaced the Oil Modulator on the transmission.... no difference. So now it's time to check linkage and the Governor. But first I have some questions. Does that linkage bar look alright? I am unsure where it should or shouldn't be bent.My shifter goes into park but needs a very hard push to actually CLICK the lever into the park detent. I also want to know if the second image is indeed the governor cap with the three bolts. If so, do I need to drain my ATF before I remove it?
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im looking for the FSM section about the 3at. i recently acquired a 76k mile loyale 3AT 4WD, and i want to clean out the governor valve, replace the vacuum modulator (have a new one on hand) and completely flush the fluid and clean the filter screen afterwards. later, plans are to add a very large cooler, and experiment with how long it can hold up to big tires and off road abuse, and potentially reworking the valve body to deal with it. highway cruising speeds with the 3at are about the same rpm as what i ran my 5spd at in 4th gear with 215/75/15 tires, so i feel like it holds the engine in the powerband where it needs to be to run large tires at highway speeds. iirc, they held up the power of some turbo models, and similar variants of the jatco 3AT were put on nissans and mazdas with much more power than a spfi EA82. its possible they have torque converters that might interchange with a higher stall speed too. if it doesnt end up working out, ill be looking into a 4EAT swap, or possibly a full drivetrain swap from a 4.44 ej powered vehicle. the car is being built for a mini 4x4 camper, with sleeping platform, auxilary battery and inverter system, propane mini heater, curtains, accent lights, etc etc. i figured having the FSM section on hand might help, and the PDF of the 89 ea82 FSM doesnt include it. otherwise i might order a chilton or haynes manual. anything on the 3at was on the old usmb and doesnt exist anymore, the governor cleaning procedure isnt even up anymore. anyone have any input on this? avoiding these transmissions like a plague just because some people are scared of the red oil is kinda dumb. they are about as simple as automatics get, honestly. thoughts?
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Trying to assess my current '94 Loyale / 3AT situation, concerning the ticking sound which accompanies the generally rough sounding idle. Not a knocking but a tick, which i've been told is commonly referred to as "Lifter-Tick" or "the Tick of Death", and can be caused by a few different things. I'm getting help from another USMB member and fellow Loyale owner, @175eya, who said he eliminated his by swapping out his oil pump, but don't quote me on that, i think there was more to it than that. I've also heard simply using a particular type of oil treatment, not sure off the top of my head which one, and then using a heavier weight oil will more temporarily solve the problem. additionally, it's been suggested the valve covers need to be adjusted. i can live with the noise, but i'm looking to increase the performance of my little 90hp engine and more importantly, help save it from any potential damage i'm currently doing to it buy continuing to drive it while it's ticking. even being able to get it up to 70mph at 42k RPM, rather than 65 at the same RPM would make highway driving better, and i'm hoping that solving the ticking issue could help w/ that. thoughts? thanks, the generosity of knowledge and expertise i've experienced here on the USMB already has fantastic and i'm truly grateful.
