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Showing results for tags '4WD'.
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Hey y'all! I am removing my bumpers and am wondering if anyone is interested in it. I will have the front marker lights attached. I'll send pics tomorrow when it's brighter out. I am not asking anything for them, just pay shipping. -
Hey guys and gals, Im a new time member with a new-to-me 1981 DL 1800 Station Wagon 4WD. And I am having issues getting my wipers, radio, A/C, and radiator fans to work. A previous owner Jerry rigged a wire to bypass the temp sensor on the radiator and also Jerry rigged a relay where the three Fused wires go. My question is: does anyone have pictures of a stock fused wire area in the engine bay? I looked on the digital service manual that was provided on this forum...but a ton of electrical pages are missing/corrupt. I just need a reference to what is stock and possibly fix these issues. Also, I have a fuse that keeps blowing....from the wires (blue and blue/red?) they look like the A/C fuse. Any help would be super appreciated! I will attach pictures later when I get better lighting.
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Hello every! So I've started moding up my 1982 GL wagon. It' has a lifted body and suspeion and I'm running kuhmo 27.5 tires. I'm almost finished doing an SPFI conversion and an EA82 swap. Got the engine and harness/ecu from a 1988 GL sedan 4wd. I'm building an EA 81 engine on my shop bench too and may swap back to the original after a while and once I'm finished building the 81. I may.......uh hum.....keep the 82 even until it quits. Either way I'll have the SPFI system on whatever I run. Ive already done the distributor conversion fir the 81 to use the SPFI manifold and SPFi on it. It has a Weber carb now. The new FI fuel pump comes in tomorrow so I should be firing her up. Have a bit of wiring and alot of organizing of the new harness to do first tho. I've been busy fabricating a winch bar and installing a new winch on the front past couple days. Here's a few pics of how that turned out. I found some 1965 mustang sway bars (2)
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Recently purchased an '86 Subaru Standard, my first FWD Subaru. Started contemplating a 4WD conversion, have a rusty Brat that would be a perfect donor... so I thought. This is why I will always return to this forum for research: Through searching this forum I learned that the 4wd hatch gas tank is 4wd hatch specific, the Brat tank would not work. There are ways around this using the fwd tank, but only if you lift the car considerably. I wish to keep the car more or less stock height. Also the driveline to the rear diff is different, the hatch has the shortest wheelbase of the ea81 models. Thats a no-fit for the Brat driveline. Plus the locations for the mustache hanger and center carrier bearing are not "there" on fwd models... would have to drill and tap locations for the bolts or have them protruding into the passenger compartment. And have read that the trans tunnel is shaped differently, and could need some massaging. Even after that the shift boots will most likely not have a great fit. It would be great with 4WD, but like wise people say on here; unless you are a masochist, leave it be and find one that is already 4WD. I will let it stay a gas sipper. Have heard mention that the "fat case" ea71's that come in this model are somewhat rare. Wonder if they are more similar to the ea81 than earlier ea71's. Thanks again USMB for the great info.
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Hey guys, I have a 1984 subaru brat that I bought because it had 4wd, but when I push the 4wd button the light will light up on the dash as long as I hold the button down, but the rear end won't kick in. Any thoughts? -
I just did a clutch replacement on a 1984 4WD GL. I replaced the rear main engine seal, and the orange gasket featured in this video It looks like the oil pan gasket is leaking, and also I have some oil in the clutch housing. Can oil leaking from the oil pan gasket migrate up into the clutch housing? The bottom of the clutch bell housing is open. I am hoping it can, it would be an easy fix. Otherwise, I am looking at fixing a leak in the transmission. -
Blast, double post. Moderator, please delete.
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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3772-pilot-bearing-included-in-clutch-kit/ This pilot bearing was included in my clutch kit for my 1984 GL 4wd . . I did not take a part off the car like this... that I know of! The outside diameter is 16mm. Does the 1984 4wd GL use this bearing? I do not want to complete the engine installation, and then find that this should have been included in the assembly. Do I need it? More importantly, does my car need it?
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The input shaft holder seems to be on there pretty well, I cannot pry it off with a screwdriver. Can I replace the oil seal for the transmission from here? edit: the video may be upside down.
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Hi Folks!, Any one got a line on where to get new front struts for my 1980DL? All the usual suppliers (RockAuto, Summit Racing, AutoZone, Napa & O'Reilly's) have only rear shocks. Thanks in advance for your help!
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Hello folks, exist somewhere a list with all subaru-transmission codes?? greets bert -
I have disconnected all the stuff from the engine needed to pull it. I'm going to pull it tomorrow. I will replace the clutch, and the rear oil seal. Is there any other easy convenient thing I should do while the engine is out?
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I have a 88(I think) dual range transmission with a blown ring and pinion. Instead of buying a new ring and pinion from subaru for $500 I picked up a gently used 93 manual push button transmission($100) with the intention of taking the ring and pinion out of that. The transmission is perfectly fine except that I would be better off with the dual range on my rig. So my question is, would it be possible to just swap the transfer case on the end of the transmission? They seem to be the same size, and it would make the project much easier. Thanks for the help. And just for kicks I have an 88 Gl-10 4" lift ej22 swap -
Hello Everyone, greetings from South America new to forum posting, long time voyeur. I recently picked up a 89 loyale 4wd ea82 carbed, 5mt dual range in regular body conditions but with a really smooth running engine, not so smooth tranny! My question is, What is the number of positions the 4wd lever should have (curved lever, not the "T" style lever found on brats), and what does its supossed to do on each? As of now i have figured out: 2H N ( should this be a 4 High?. No light at dash)) 4L ( this posittion turns on light at dash) Normal should be? 2h 4high 4low Little info: On purchase chek, i noticed a squirring sound when putting it on 4wd, (first step of lever y assume). Previous owner said it was only the rear diff being dry and that i would just have to pour some oil in it and it will stop making the sound, he offered me a deal, 200 usd of, if i took it like that, v/s regular price if he refilled it and it stopped the sound. Took the gamble, only to later find out that rear diff spins all the time (yikes!) Refilled it and it seemed to work fine! But still, cant find or seem to find how the heck to get it on 4wd High. Looked under the car when doing the oil change, when movin the 4wd lever it posittively made the rod on the transfer move in and out without issues.
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Hey everyone, My name is Tim and I'm a long time USMB reader, first time posting. Back in August of 2016 I picked up this sweet little stock 1982 Brat GL that had lived its life primarily in the Southwest, so very little rust. With fresh tires, light maintenance and a new front axle I drove the Brat daily from my home in the mountains about 40 miles round trip in to the city for work and it was great. I love older cars and the Brat has a ton of character. Anyway, after five months of daily commuting we experienced a cold snap and the stock 144K-old head gaskets blew. Here's a photo just days before that happened. After sitting down and budgeting a rebuild of the stock motor and considering a carb upgrade (mine has that terrible large single bore carter) I took two days and researched the EJ swap here on USMB and weighed the pros and cons. I ended up sending Scott at SJR an email and ordering his transmission adapter plate and redrilled flywheel while I began hunting for a parts car. After two months and three botched deals I bought a 1995 Legacy with front end damage, but not enough to make contact with the motor. We managed to bend the radiator core support enough to get a fresh radiator in there and I drove it 70 miles home with no issues. The white Brat in the picture kind of fell in to my lap, so I just took a few parts I needed and sold it, which paid for the Legacy. I pulled the motor and wiring, then sent the wiring to Scott to be thinned down and labeled so I stand a chance of doing this correctly Big thanks to Scott for all of his help so far! While Scott was doing his thing with the wiring my buddy Alex helped me get the EJ22 from the Legacy freshened up for what I am hoping are many trouble-free miles. This week all of the the SJR swap parts arrived and I am just waiting on a fuel pump and clutch to begin the swap. In the future I would like to make it a bit more truck-like with better ground clearance, but one step at a time.
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So I'm working on this project with my 1984 EA81 DL wagon. Attempting to swap in an EJ22 and the transmission from the same car, 5sp 4MT. I'm having some trouble figuring out how to mount the trans. I can cut out the tunnel but even so, I'm puzzled on how to attach the trans. I could use the EJ22 crossmember with the front sway bar removed. Any thoughts? -
o/ I tried a bit of searching before hand and didn't come up with anything similar to my problem, and NASIOC didn't have much help other that the direction to this site. (Which I'm ecstatic about.) I bought a 1985 GL from my in-laws, I found the car a year ago and was about to buy it when they said they needed it more, so I let them snatch it up with the intent of buying it from them later on. Well, that time has come and now it's mine. They drove it maybe 2,000 miles in the year they owned it and did improper maintenance. Now it's got a dead lifter and 2 blown head gaskets. I'm not very concerned about those two issues, they're easy fix's for me. I am however concerned with my 4WD system. FWD works perfectly, it'll even do a one tire fire if I'm not easy on the peddle. 4hi it makes a ton of gearbox noise from the center diff, and it feels like one of the rear wheels locks up and just drags, all while going straight, I haven't dared to turn. 4lo makes the same noise however it seems to work just fine. I haven't really tried 4lo that much due to the fear of it breaking on dry pavement. The weirdest part of all this, is it only goes back in 2wd if I'm going in reverse. It refuses to go back while moving forward. If you've got idea's before I start cracking the box's open, I'm all ears.
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These forums have illuminated for me the importance of using OEM CV boots. Though, I am having difficulty finding these boots (and necessary clips and grease) for purchase. I'm looking for specific recommendations, and other tips you all think would assist in this search. For example, some listings on eBay are for just boots without the necessary clips and grease. Thanks!
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Hi! I'm an absolute newb when it comes to subies. I needed a cheap car, picked a GL wagon up for $150, a month and a half and another $500 in parts (distributor, the infamous timing belt + water pump) and labor it is running, albeit with a few kinks. Any insight into good sites and threads to read to help start sussing out the little problems- like the too-rich carb, rough idle, the jerry-rigged fuel pump, and especially what to look out for are need and much appreciated. Especially any online manuals and schematics. I had no idea these cars were so beloved, but I am starting to see why now. 200,000 miles, sitting non op for over a year and now the new parts are in, it starts instantly and runs strong. I am excited to get it together before the snows so that I have an excuse to use the 4WD (although I have now lost my 'snow day' get out of jail free card... ) Anyways,Thanks for your time and assistance. -
Hey all. I'm in the middle of doing the ball joints and CV axles on my 1988 ea82 4wd wagon. Getting them out wasn't hard, and one side went in like a charm (with some hammer persuasion), but the passenger's side will NOT pop into the steering knuckle. I've tried PB blaster, lightly wedging the pinch bolt open with my pickle fork, lithium grease, BFH treatment, and last but not least installing the new joint into the control arm first and wedging the knuckle down onto the ball joint with a breaker bar. Anybody have any tips for getting the new ones in?? for the record I'm using ACDELCO ball joints from Rockauto, they are both identical and seem to be the same in all critical areas as the old ones.
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86 GL 5sp sporadically won't move
1cor6.nine-11 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Hi again friends. I recently had my clutch changed and immediately after, I had an issue where I would put the car in 1st or reverse, try to release the clutch and it couldn't move, making the engine bog down as if the emergency brake was on or the gears were somehow bound up. However, once I press and release the clutch, the car would take off as usual. Now it continues to bind up occasionally like that (maybe once per day) but an extra press and release of the clutch frees things up. It feels like maybe 4wd becomes partially engaged (just enough to bind - if that's even possible); however I don't understand why it would start immediately after the clutch was changed and why a press of the clutch would release it. Does anyone know what the problem is? Thanks in advance. JW 86 gl 1.8 5sp dual range 4wd -
What parts do I need to get to do a rear disc brake conversion on my 88 GL 4wd wagon? Any input would be helpful. Also is there a thread somewhere on how to drill hubs to the 4 x 114.3 pattern?
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Alright, I'm a new Subaru owner. I have a 1991 Loyale 4wd. Bought it with 133km and have put over 9k on it in a month. Basically everything is original from my guess because everything seems to be breaking down. Most recently the altinator went. Since than the 4wd is no longer functioning. I am having trouble finding information in the Haynes manual as well as online, any information would be great!
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Hello everyone. I am currently looking at possibly buying a 1986 Subaru GL 4WD wagon that's on a lot in Washington, but I'm in California so I had someone check it out for me. He tells me that the on-demand 4WD is not a push-button, as I expected, but rather on a lever on the steering column. I've tried to look into this, and it seems like Subaru stopped making that kind of 4WD transimission in the late 70's? Can anyone discuss this with me? This is a big purchase for me - not a "fun" car, but would be my only car. Thank you! -
Hello all, I am new here (to Subarus, this forum, and the like) and I'd like to share this saga of "Drivin' Miss Subie" which comes to you in the form of a 1991 Loyale Wagon. She's a 5-speed, 4WD, with ~250k miles on her, and she runs, albeit poorly. Interior is fairly decent considering her age, and the body is ~85% solid. Yes, it was a bargain buy ($300). PO got rear-ended, so it was salvage titled, which means I can't use the rear hatch. Her main downfall: She stalls at idle. I'm trying to figure out the problem, and then I will go from there. I was actually shocked that it came with power windows and A/C. Here she is currently in my driveway as we speak:
