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I was getting ready for a road trip last month and about 45 minutes after I left our caravan stopped for a photo opp. When we got back on the road I noticed what I thought might be rod knock, but it would only make noise under load, and was related to wheel speed. I did some research, checked my wheel bearings and axles, and they checked out fine (although the DOJs for the front diff were loose, I could wiggle them by hand). So I jacked up the front of the car, put the fuse in the FWD slot and put the transmission in gear. The ratcheting sound doesn't seem to be coming from the bellhousing or front diff, but sounds like it's coming from the bowels of the transmission, above the oil pan. Is my transmission trash? Is this a common failure? The Forester has almost 250k miles on it. If the trans *IS* toast, what's the preferred method of finding a healthy replacement? @GeneralDisorder @idosubaru -
Hi i need to swap out the trans in my 2000 Subaru Outback 2.5l auto 4eat. I need help to make sure what i buy is compatible. Can any 00 01 02 03 04 outback used 4eat trans plug and play fit and electrically connect in my 00 outback? Ive read that the gear ratios are the same across these years, but i dont know anything about the rest or electrical connections, harnesses, etc. Please help. I need to buy the right one. I can be sure to get one only out of an outback so final drive would be the same. Thx Paul -
Hello fellow Subaru enthusiasts! I have been experiencing automatic transmission problems for many years and the time has finally come that I can avoid fixing it any longer. Since I acquired the car in 2011 there has been a intermittent problem with the duty-C selenoid, the transmission has been binding up around corners for a long time, but the car was given to me for free so I never took the time to replace the duty-C. I do not drive the car very far so I have gotten away with this for some time now. When I do drive the car over 15 miles, the transmission heats up and starts to whine under load. After about 30 minutes of driving the scratching/grinding noise between gears is awful, its so loud I feel bad driving it. I have done 3 transmission flushes over the last 6 years, the first flush was because my transmission cooler line broke while driving 60 mph uphill and dumped all my fluid. While refilling the transmission fluid I accidentally over filled it, and drove it like that for at least 2 years. This summer I start a new job that is about 110 miles away and I know my car won't make it, not even once. I need to replace the transmission, one with less miles that does not have quite the abuse on it. I plan to remove a transmission from a matching year legacy when one appears in the junkyard and swap that. Once I find a replacement transmission I plan to bring it to a shop and have them test it before I go through the trouble of swapping it out, but I am wondering if anyone has done a project like this before? If so, were there any unexpected issues that came up? What gaskets should I purchase before so I can change them all before I install it? Is there an item number for a kit with all the gaskets? Even better, does anyone have a link to a similar situation that someone has already posted? Thanks for the help everyone! 1993 Legacy L, 4-EAT 287,452 miles -Mike -
Hi all, I'm looking to purchase a 2009 outback, 5mt. 160k miles. Hit something and the front bumper is cracked, along with the hood being a little wrinkled now. The steering wheel airbag deployed. I'm hoping to buy the car cheap, and replace the airbag myself. Is it just that simple? There are a lot of airbags on ebay for about $150, but they all say 4AT on the back of them. Does that mean they're not compatible with a 5 speed manual? Also, do I need to replace airbag control modules too? Seatbelts x4? I assume once I've done the manual labor, I need to have the components synced at a dealership? I haven't found a write-up on the forum for airbag replacement. OEM airbag from subaru is $550... Take care Greg -
I have a 2000 Forester automatic with 260k KM that is pretty much 2WD due to the transfer clutch not working properly.....most of the time it won't engage but the rare times that it does it engages with a distinct 'thump' and full drive which leads me to think its grooved the basket or hub or both rather that it being a solenoid fault. So my question is, is there anywhere online that does a 'kit' with all the bits i'd need to replace the clutch basket, hub and plates etc?..... I asked at my local subaru dealer's parts desk....and got blank looks from everyone followed by.... 'we can supply you a rebuilt transmission if its not working properly.'.......the annoying part is that trans is running beautifully apart from only being 4wd when it feels like it. Cheers Callum -
Some help needed again... 1989 XT6, FWD, 4EAT automatic transmission. When I start the engine, the Power indicator light on the dash blinks 16 times and the idle speed is very low. I'll read deep into the FSMs and see about retrieving any codes, but I don't see any at the ECM in the trunk. Maybe there is a clue in the transmission section. I've investigated a bit and found that there may be a bad solenoid on the transmission. Along with the 16 blinks, the engine idles very low. Could this be a simple fix, add transmission fluid, or is this a sign of a bad solenoid, and which one, C? Recently I've posted various sensor replacements, CTS, TPS, MAF and IACV, all of which are now working properly. I'm getting close to selling this temperamental beauty and look for a newer and more daily drivable Subaru, the wife needs a car soon. Any help is appreciated! -
Please see my video at this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/11FP39hKrU2XqiSRT4n7GRie5ra_5cdiY/view?usp=sharing I was experiencing a vibration at speed. It felt like front wheels/bearings/balance... but I would slip it into neutral and it would roll just fine. I figured it was "drive-train" somewhere and took it to a shop for diagnosis. They found a torn boot and told me that 1/2 axle was bad and causing vibration and that when I slipped it into neutral it took the torque off the axle and allowed it to re-center itself and spin freely. I started installing new axles and seals. When I removed the driver side retaining plate to replace the seal, the axle stub just clunked to the bottom of the opening (unlike passenger side which had stayed centered in the hole...) - Please watch my video and let me know what you think has happened inside the case. Thanks!! -
Background: Struts are all newish, brakes recently serviced, new inner/outer tie rods, new ball joints, new FCAR bushings, wheels rebalanced, recent alignment. Symptoms: Faint clunking noise at low speeds while accelerating. Shaking at 60 mph, felt like unbalanced wheel, except we just had them rebalanced. Back story: I've been chasing an issue with the passenger's front wheel on our 1999 Forester for a few months now. The car is closing in on 200k miles and I had just finished replacing the ball joints and tie rod ends on the car when I noticed the passenger's side front control arm rear bushing was pretty badly torn. I replaced that bushing, got an alignment, then my wife tells me that the car is shaking on the highway. OK, wheels must be out of balance, so we get them rebalanced. No change. I do the wheel shake test and I felt some play, so let's take a look at the wheel bearing. Wheel and brakes removed, I can feel some clunking as I turn the hub. The driver's side feels smooth when rotated, but there is obviously something wrong with the passenger's side. I get the passenger's side spindle assembly on the bench expecting to find some grumbling and play, but it feels pretty smooth in rotation, with no axial or radial play. So I grab the halfshaft and rotate it. The clunking is still present, but it doesn't feel like it's coming from the CV or DOJ. I supposed it could be either of those parts, but I get the feeling that the passenger's side differential carrier bearing is going south. Question: I've read a lot about Subaru transmissions over the years and that if not reassembled properly with the correct backlash and bearing preload, they will fail again in pretty short order. As I see it, we've got a few options on how to proceed: 1) Rebuild the original transmission - Has to go to a shop and could get expensive with labor and, "while we're in there" incidentals, rebuild could re-fail 2) Replace original transmission with a good used one - I can do this, no problem, but I worry about getting a bad used transmission 3) Sell the car and find the wife a new vehicle - Since our Forester is a the bottom of it's depreciation curve right now, does it really make sense to sink $600-3,000 into a vehicle that's only worth $4,000 tops? Looking for opinions, experiences, etc. If you've got a nice, used transmission, I'm all ears too!
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Hello, I am a newbie. I own a replica 1955 Porsche 356 powered by a mid engine 2001 2.5 Forester and 4EAT. Car runs great, and shifts fine while in drive, but I can not manually downshift to any lower gears. Whatever lower gear the selector is placed in the car acts as if in drive. This problem was intermittent at first, now happens all the time. I have replaced the inhibiter switch, drained and replaced both filters, new fluid, checked all solenoids, and shifting linkage. I even tried different TCU and ECU. Car runs great in drive, shifts up and down as it should, but still I am not able to manually use any lower gear. I have contacted several local shops but the problem can not be pin pointed. At first the only codes pulled pointed to the inhibiter switch, but now I can not pull any trouble codes at all. Anybody out there recognize this problem? -
Help!!! Had a severed wire in trans when pan pulled. Blue wire going solenoid in bottom when pan was pulled. Reconnected the wire connector broke but have rechecked since and is fine, was reading the torque convertor solenoid voltage code, went away when vehicle started. Have EGR code now but trans only drives in 1st and 2nd gear. If it shifts to 3rd which is rare, slips all the way. When lifting car letting it engage 1st or second gear when hitting brakes (all new hardware) torque convertor. Sounds like a bunch of bolts rattling around or a heat shield loose type of sound. Where do I start? Pulling trans now, but need fixed now and have very little money. 96 outback 2.5 4eat. Also gear shifter does not line up with gear selected. Reverse is N, drive is 3 no real click between 1 and 2 on shift lever. -
So I went to swap out my '98 LGT 4EAT back to it's original transmission as I had taken it out to repair (Duty C etc) but I evidently fubar'd the oil pump putting it back in because once it was fully seated it would not turn more than .5-1" But that isn't my issue. When I put the temp trany back into car I can not get the sifter cable to install correctly. Even after putting the inside adjuster screw all the way forward/inward. I still need about a 1/2" further. No man handling to get it to work either. Note this is like the 3 or 4th time installing auto trans into this particular car. I went by the FSM Inhibitor Switch and adjusting guidelines. I looked at the lever assembly and it seems 100% AOK. IE not bent out of shape etc. (though I don't have a picture of one) I'm at a loss. -
I have a 2005 Saab 9-2x Aero (WRX) 141,000 miles, completely stock, with the 4EAT automatic. Under full throttle, at about 70 mph, it will shift from 3rd to neutral (and redline) rather than shift to 4th. I must let off the throttle and give it a few seconds to find 4th gear when this happens. Under normal acceleration, it has no problem going from 3rd to 4th gear. I have just replaced the transmission fluid and filter (using genuine Subaru stuff) and still the problem persists. I have never driven anything with an automatic transmission before and really don't know where to start with this, it is also difficult for me to find anything on the web about this exact problem, so any help would be appreciated. Thank you! -
Hello All, New to these forums and looking for some 4eat advice. I have a recently acquired a 1991 Subaru Legacy wagon with the automatic transmission (142,000 miles). After a week of local daily driving, I've noticed a couple things regarding the transmission. Most interested in thoughts on #2. 1) This week the 16-flashing POWER light deal on the dash happened. Went through the process to determine code...TCU code 22 - Atmospheric sensor. Unfortunately, not a solenoid that can be replaced from what I gather, but actually has to do with the ECU. Checked the OBDI engine codes, no corresponding ECU atmospheric sensor fault (would be code 45). After a full reset of the ECU/TCU (pulling fuse 14 from the driver side kick panel) this has gone away (for now). 2) However, despite the TCU POWER indicator not coming on after the reset, I am still experiencing my primary cause for concern. From a stop, upshift from 1-2 has a little "thud" (not too unusual for the 4EAT from what I gather). Then upshift from 2-3 is smooth, BUT, there is an acceleration lag after the shift before the car starts forward again (I have NOT let off the accelerator pedal at all). It doesn't last long, but it's obvious and annoying. It seems to become less pronounced the longer I drive the car. 3) Fluid looks brand new, reddish and clear, not burnt or brown looking at all. It is however above the high mark on the HOT side after driving the car and go through all the gears while on a level surface. Any thoughts on these issues, particularly #2? My plan is to drop the transmission pan, replace the filter, add new fluid, as well as replace the inline transmission filter located near the coolant reservoir. Could it be something to do with the brake band and if so, go tighter or looser? Is there cause for concern here? Thanks(!) in advance for your time and thoughts. Matt -
I have an Impreza 2.0L 4AT 2008 at 100k mark and the gearbox is acting up: slow to shift, rough shift, vibrations on D when stopped. Inspected the ATF, level is good, but color is weird: clear, slight yellowish, almost just like fresh engine oil. Likely wrong oil was replaced by someone before me. Also manual states that vibration can be caused by higher viscosity ATF (dexron III instead of VI). The manual also list possible mechanical issues causing the delays, but let's try flush first. I know there are different opinions, flush vs. drain, let's not discuss that here. I decided to do a full flush. Now I was searching the internetz how that could be DIY'ed... And oh man, some people are brave. In other words, I did not find a safe way this could be DIY'ed without fancy flush machine that only large specialized shops have. Did I miss something? Was even thinking about making a special pump myself. -
Longtime lurker, first time poster. I have a 1999 Subaru Outback 2.5 130K miles. For about 2 months, I have had the AT temp light flashing constantly at random times and not in any pattern (not on startup! maybe about an 20 min to hour into the drive). My wife, when I was out of town and trying to make less work for me, took it to the dealer and they did a $750 trans flush (!!!) where they 'removed the pan to check for shavings'. This didn't help the issue, btw. After I gathered myself and calmed down, I found the handshake procedure for reading the TCM codes. I got a 76. This told my I had a incomplete circuit in the Transfer clutch solenoid. I put the FWD fuse in there and no light on dash and we're still stuck in AWD. I hadn't really noticed binding in turns, but now that I am trying to get it to bind, I do feel some and it's definitely still got lots of grip. Sorry for the long post, here comes the questions... because I have a 76 code, this is a Phase II 4EAT trans (also have external filter). The Phase II 4EAT version2 (that is the only info I can find online) has this solenoid accessible in the trans pan but looks like it starts being used in 2002. I can only assume I have Phase II 4EAT verson#1? and the Solenoid is in the tail end of the trans? So I need to take off the tail end of the trans and access it there? Is 2500 miles driving locked up enough to damage the transfer clutch and should I plan on servicing that while I have it out? OR Is it an opportunity to 'upgrade' and find a newer and better trans (like from an 03 or 04) and if so, which best, coolest option should I look for that will work easily in my 1999? Thanks for any opinion you folks can provide and thanks for all the past help. T -
So, I'm just gonna post what I've got going on and what I've found and hopefully people can chime in who know more about this than me. Even if you don't know about all parts of my question please post what parts you do know. I've read alot of posts on this forum and other Subaru forums but this is by far the most involved repair I have attempted. Short version: Duty C solenoid. Most info posted in this thread should apply to 99-04 models as this repair is similar on those years (99 models with TZ1A2 trans) Last fall my AT Temp light started flashing intermittently, with torque bind when it was flashing. After a couple weeks it pretty much stayed on. I found how to get the TCU codes and got codes 93, 27 and 79. According to this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113278-how-to-read-transmission-codes/?do=findComment&comment=1103000 27 ATF temperature sensor. Detects open or shorted input signal circuit. 79 Transfer duty solenoid. Detects open or shorted output signal circuit. 93 Rear vehicle speed sensor. Detects open or shorted input signal circuit. I thought that it had to be a loose TCU cable or something because how could all 3 go bad? I checked the codes a few times over a month or so and got the same codes, clearing them in between at least a couple of those. A while later I was able to try unplugging and reconnecting the main cable at the TCU, Transmission, and the weird little extension above the transmission. Light still on, still torque bind. I was originally writing this post to ask for help verifying the Duty C solenoid, but just last week as I was finally going into detail researching the problem and the repair I decided to check the codes again, and with a few checks over the past week or so it's showing only code 79 which seems to verify that as the specific problem. Now that you've spent a couple minutes reading my description of the problem, here are my actual questions: 1. I have a vibration sometimes, starting at about 60 MPH. Sometimes it is in the steering wheel, sometimes more the whole car, and it varies greatly in strength on different days at the same speed. Sometimes pressing on the brakes hard will make the vibration stop for a while, sometimes not. Does this make any sense to perhaps be caused by the transfer solenoid? 2. Until I have time and money to actually replace the transfer solenoid, can I safely disconnect the front differential solenoid and will that reduce the torque bind when parking? 3. Has anyone else done this on a 99 phase 2 transmission, TZ1A2 who can verify the part numbers I found? 31942AA103 - transfer solenoid 31337AA191 - case gasket 31952AA060 - Transfer valve gasket plate 31523AA410 - transfer clutch pack 31954AA071 - transfer valve gasket gasket 4. I swear I had some other question which I will probably remember on the way to work tomorrow lol Thanks for taking the time to read my long post. I attached the Vin Plate or whatever it's called as well
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Hey everyone. Ok, so I get off work one day, and figured I should stop and get engine oil and filter before I head home to do my standard maintinence on my 1995 legacy L. While I'm stopped in the parking lot, I'm noticing a large amount of smoke coming out of my engine bay. I turn off the vehicle and get out to look underneath. I find a very large amount of ATF leaking onto my cat. I immediately call for a tow truck so I can diagnose the issue at home. I've searched a huge amount of forums regarding the 4eat, leaks, problems, and so forth. I can't find much. Other than, by where the fluid is draining out, it's most likely my rear driveshaft seal. I was just wondering if anyone else has had this type of experience, or knows if it's even worth fixing. Thank you! -
Hello people, I asked this on another subaru-oriented site but so far I've had no answers, and I need an answer soon. The transmission on my '05 OBW is going belly up. When cold (specially if the car has been sitting for a while, e.g. for a weekend) it takes a while for the forward gears to engage, and then shifts like crap until it warms up somewhat. The tranny was overfilled, and when I removed the extra ATF (about 2 Qts) the fluid that came out looked all but "bright red". There were also some friction material bits on it (not too many, but still). In any case, I think this transmission will fail this winter, and I'd like to be ready when that happens. I've been trying to find information about compatible transmissions (specially from Foresters, as there seem to be way more of them than Outbacks on the junkyards around here) but so far no luck. Is there any way to "decipher" the transmission code (mine is TZ1B7lCACA) to see which transmissions would be compatible? I googled that code and didn't get anything significant. The only search that gives something is for "TZ1B", so I assume that's the most relevant part of the code. But which cars have compatible transmissions? Thanks! -
Hey guys, So my new (to me) 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback with the 4EAT on startup blinks the AT OIL TEMP error code 16 times. I'm 95% sure it's a problem with the Duty C Solonoid. I both lifted the car off the ground and went offroading (before I knew of the problem) and the rear wheels and drivetrain never turn, which also makes me believe this is a problem with the Dudy C Solonoid. However, before I start looking into replacing the Dudt C, I want to see if anything else could be causing this problem. Where is the wiring for the transmission or more specifically the Duty C solodnoid? I'm thinking it could just be broken somewhere. I've looked online and from page to page of my repair manual but i cant find anything about transmission wiring. Thanks guys, Matt -
While putting the engine into my '01 Forester 4EAT I failed to properly seat the TC and ended up damaging the pump in the auto trans. I've been looking at various options. Namely: either taking the pump apart and fixing it or replacing the pump, or putting another transmission into it. I bought a used '98 Forester trans (TZ103ZJ1AA-L1) without realizing that it was (mostly?) incompatible. I could exchange the '98 Forester transmission for one out of a '00 Outback Wagon. Are they compatible? I know the final drive ratios are the same and the transmission will likely bolt right up to the engine, but what about the electronics? Will the driveshaft from my Forester fit with the OBW trans? Will my Forester starter fit on the OBW trans? Are the gear ratios similar? How will the OBW trans in the Forester affect things like the speedo reading accurately? The information: '01 Forester 4EAT with about 174k (Trans replaced at 89k) Trans # TZ1A3ZC2AA-P8 '00 Outback Wagon (milage unknown. Reason for ending up in the junkyard unknown, but it wasn't a collision) Trans # TZ1A4ZCABA I'd hate to go through the trouble of getting the Outback transmission only to find out it won't work in my Forester. Any help is greatly appreciated! -
Okay....so this is general question, really more of a survey. Has anyone experienced a complete lack of shifting in a 4EAT equipped 2008+ Legacy after a TCU software "update"? The car in question is a 2008 legacy sedan w/4eat. With a recently installed Subaru optional Remote start setup. I physically installed the remote start kit. Excactly according to instructions down to last detail. The key fobs were "talking" correctly to the box. Put the unit through the Idle speed programming. Checked all key fobs chirped the system, brake pedal canceled, etc......Every step of the instructions followed and checked out good. The only step I did not complete to finalize was the "interlock transmitter" code program. To those not familiar, this model and all newer have a RF chip in the key, so that even if the ignition is physically turned, the engine will not start without the proper key with RF chip matching that car. The reciever is built into the ignition cylinder. Now, obviously for remote start there is no key present....that's were the interlock transmitter comes in....it has an antenna that loops around the ignition cylinder, and after programmed emits a mimic signal of the RF chip to allow starter engagement. Basically fools the system into thinking there is a key present. This programming can only be done using Subaru Select Monitor computer/softwware (SSMIII) which I don't have..also requires all keys. and the RF code.....which we do have since the car was purchased by us brand new. So....we make an appointment with delaership where the remote starter kit was purchased. Appointment 1 week out....no problem, car starts and drives normaly with no CEL or other issues when started with regular key. Drive car for one week in the mean time....no problems whatsoever.........drop it off for programming on a friday......when we get the car back wednesday of the following week.....the remote start has been programed and now fully functions. Here's were it gets weird. For some reason, the dealership says their tech "had to" reflash the TCU software with an update. And now the AT temp light flashes, CEL and CRUISE, traction control, and ABS lights all on. Dealer says "it's just the lights, car drives fine" but claims both the TCU and the transmission valve body need replaced....cost, $1950 dollars!!!! He then say's if the TCU does fail further the car will not drive and we will be stuck "like it's in Nuetral or park" I know this to not be the case. Default from loss of electronic control is 3rd gear mechanical operation...but I don't bother to correct him....I just want to get the car out of there. I am very suspect. we take the car home......from the first minute driving I can tell the trans is in "limp" mode. 3rd gear only. I confirm this with "sport mode" trying to manually select gears to no avail. So the car is screwed up bigtime. I am refraining from posting any further information on the dealer, the alterations to they made that deviate from subaru install instruction, and a few other infuriating tidbits until the SOA representative I called can try to remedy the situation through said dealer. (SOA rep listened attentively, and seemed genuinely interested in helping) So for now I am just wondering if anyone else has had trans issues immediately following a "TCU" software update or a remote start install. I will note that I've confirmed with other, trusted dealer techs that TCU update should not have been needed for a simple RF interlock transmitter programming. Discuss -
I have a 96 legacy with 262k on it currently. It started doing the 16 flash A/T transmission light. It ended up being code 24 (duty solenoid C / Valve transfer assy) I put in the FWD fuse and it didn't work at first (no FWD light). I decided to leave it in and see if its working at all. I noticed it might work for a day or half a day or 20 minutes and then the FWD light will go off again. (my thinking is FWD works when the solenoid is working with the fuse in)... I looked into prices and it would cost me around $2-400 to do the solenoid and clutch pack myself. or about the same price for a used transmisison here in phonenix. I don't want to do this job and then have it break again soon with such high miles. And frankly its hard to spend more money on a car that is worth around $2000 these days... So here are my questions... 1. What is the life span of a 96 subaru/nissan 4EAT? 2. Is it worth it to change the Duty Solenoid C / clutch pack on a tranny with 262k on it... WIll another solenoid or someting else likely go out in my transmission soon? 3. Could it be something being plugged up causing the FWD mode to work intermentately... to which a fluid drain and fill could possibly fix my woes? Your advice is appricaited! Any advice.... I've been thinking of selling it and getting a newer suby... I'm just so use to the 2.2 reliability and have been afraid of the head gasket issues of any 2.5 legacy/outback till 2010 which is out of the budget for now. -
Took my car for a drive today, I live in the buffalo area thats all over the news so the cars been sitting for a few days. I usually let the engine warm up before I drive it but today I was in a hurry so just started up and drove it. As Im driving it, since I pull out of the driveway and for a solid 10 minutes after it feels as if the engine is bogging down, almost stalling so it bucks if I accelerate from 25+ Holds in gear for a little bit (a few seconds at 3000 rpm), but might just be because Im putting my foot down, it always does that. After it bogs the revs jump up, like its bucking but speeding up. The surging feels almost like tranny slip. I know it has a bit of tranny slip, I live on a steep hill and really have to give it to 'er to make it up with any sort of speed. Any tranny slip ive experienced before occurs above 4500 and lasts half a second at most. Todays occurances were at 3000. The bogging feels like the timing isnt advancing. (As i put my foot further down it bogs harder) I dont think its a trans issue as it happens in all gears. It went away mostly as the engine warmed up though. Didnt go away, but got much much better. After the engine was warm when I got home, I revved it up under the hood, with my hand pushing the throttle linkage. The engine would stutter, feel like its about to shake itself out of the car, then rev normally. I cant rev it long at idle 'cause it overheats with its leaky head gaskets. Could the head gaskets be doing this? (Probably a stupid question) All of the ignition componants are origional to my knowledge, and its pushing 85k. I was just reading on another thread last night about how ignition coils go easily on these due to heatsoak issues. Also on the same thread how upstream O2 sensors could have a similar affect to my symptoms If this is an engine problem I couldnt care less as long as it runs, its almost swap time anyways. Im worried about trans issues. I have not had the trans serviced and there are no records. I was told not to have a flush done for the first time above 80k, as it could loosen debris and cause failure sooner. Help! Please and thank you! -
Hello. Thanks in advance for reading. A bit of a long post, I'm trying to provide as many details as possible. History I recently swapped a '95 4EAT (90k) and rear differential into my '92 Legacy L AWD Sedan. The original final drive ratio was 3.90, and is now 4.11. However, the winter tires I am using are significantly larger than the factory tires (I do not have tire clearance issues, BTW). The factory calls for 185/70 14s with a circumference of 76.017 inches, and I'm running 195/75 14s with a circumference of 80.161 inches. At the advice of the local Subaru guru, I did NOT swap the TCU. The steeper gears combined with the taller tires is a near-perfect match IF there were to be a TCU issue: 3.90/4.11 = 0.949 76.017/80.161 = 0.948 I've also verified this by calculating my speed through several mile markers. Symptoms 1) Intermittent, totally random failsafe mode (stuck in 3rd gear). This can happen at any speed, at any time, and for any duration. It can be downshifting normally as I slow to a stop, only to go into failsafe as I accelerate. I can drive it for 30 minutes on the highway with no problems when it suddenly drops to 3rd and revs. It can happen first thing in the morning when cold, or not. It can be in failsafe for two seconds or fifteen minutes. Totally random. Overall, it seems to fault approximately 25% of the time, and is not getting better or worse. 2) When it exits of failsafe mode, I receive one and only one power light indicator flash. I receive no indications when the 4EAT enters failsafe mode, and I am even sometimes unaware the the transmission has faulted until I observe the one flash. Occasionally, I also get one extremely fast AT temp indicator flash. This happens very quickly. So quickly, in fact, that I can barely even tell which indicator came on. The AT temp indicator may be flashing every time the power indicator flashes, but I don't think this is the case. I cannot tell because when I am able to visualize the indicator, it stays lit for just a split second. 3) Occasionally, but much more infrequently then the symptoms above, I receive the 16 power indicator flashes, indicating a stored TCU code. When I am able to retrieve the codes, I always receive a 32 and a 33 for vehicle speed sensors 1 and 2. 4) As to 3) above, I cannot always retrieve codes. When I follow Josh's code retrieval steps, the power indicator lamp does not always come on in step 3. Actions I've changed the fluid twice. It is always bright red with no burnt odor. I've used 1/2 bottle of red LubeGuard each time. I always keep the fluid right on the full mark. Next I do not think that I have a mechanical issue with the transmission. The intermittent but binary nature of the symptoms, combined with occasional lack of power indicator at startup point me to an electrical issue. I could try a '95 TCU, speed sensors, cleaning the transmission connectors, or cleaning and adjusting the throttle position sensor. Any other ideas? Thanks for the forum, the great write-ups, and the good community attitude. This is my first Subaru and I've had fun learning not only about my car, but what everyone else is doing. Dana -
I have had some experience repairing various fails of the duty c system. recently I had a solenoid fail mechanically bleeding off atf failing to lock the clutch packs yet the solenoid ohm tested fine and did not throw a tcu code. this all resulted in front wheel drive only this video depicts how I use air pressure to open the valve body and make sure pressure is applied to the clutch disks. https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10154906353260372&l=4129290750931752898 there are several writeups on how to get to the tail section but I do plan on doing my own with pawl instructions! the one I did find in USRM the guy had a loose one he HOPED would not lock up on him.... GEEZ X.x
