Search the Community
Showing results for tags '5 speed'.
Found 12 results
-
I aquired this cool little wagon a little while ago From JAmacT. I thought the motor had issues and the 5 speed had no reverse But the price was right FREE. See ad here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/155635-free-86-subaru-dl-manual-5-speed-4wd-wagon/?hl=free So after towing her from Bishop to Salmon Idaho with no issues I was feeling pretty good. I pulled the dip stick and it was overfull by almost a quart and a half, maybe to quiet the terrible noise the motor was making. It was the tick of death X10. So I'm thinking junk! I always do a engine clean out before I pull it. I will give the recipe as was told to me by a career mechanic back in the early 80's. for a four quart system 2.5 oil 1.5 ATF new filter start and let idle for 30 minutes watch the temp. OK i can hear the flame throwers charging up, but I have done this to more engines than I can count with zero bad juju. Well Blue wagon seemed to love it the engine quieted down to a normal TOD. Drain oil/ATF and the sludge, and repeat, with a new filter. Drained and filled with synthetic blend I had on the shelf, TOD only at idle now. A stuck lifter or lifters, I am now thinking. The 5 speed has its own weirdness going on. NO reverse. it goes into a gear type space but no gear. While messing around I found reverse but closer to 4th. There is not a lot of slop in shifter except where reverse should be and is. But now I have a running driving (extremely loud) wagon. Push button 4 wheel works well. Needs a clutch in the worst way and front boot is gone, but axle isn't clicking loud enough for a deaf Ironworker to hear. We put 500 miles on her in the three weeks at the house. She is now in hibernation next to my vette and Electra Glide waiting for spring and a bunch of parts. and one of my son showing me he is almost big enough to get my ol Harley
-
(updated with the answer) Symptoms: The transmission on my 5 speed 2000 Legacy GT (AWD) sounds like an angle grinder or go-cart (grinding/buzzing/putting noise). Started making noise overnight, in every gear and in neutral, sounds like something rotating/grinding and is proportional to the car's speed. When the car isn't moving there isn't any noise. Another interesting thing is that in 5th gear (possibly others, but most noticeable in 5th) it makes noise with 0 throttle, less noise with 1/8th throttle, and then more noise again if you go past that. What more knowledgeable friends have said: A trusted mechanic said it's probably a bearing in the transmission, but he doesn't work on them so I'm not confident he knows the exact issue. A good friend said he had a similar issue on his 2000s era Forester, and it was the center differential, but I've heard that if the differential is the issue, the symptoms will get worse while making tight turns, and I haven't experienced that, at least at low speeds. Possibly relevant info: I had a rear tire replaced this past summer, they didn't shave it down. I measured them and it was essentially the same size. Maybe a small difference in diameter caused an issue? ANSWER: I'm transcribing from the mechanic so this may not be 100% accurate: The transfer gear was split, which damaged/destroyed center differential (and the back clip came off). The transfer case damaged as well. The mechanic said it was just normal wear and tear, so I'm not sure if this had anything to do with one of the tires being replaced. -
I have a 2003 Forester 5 speed already out and split to replace the input shaft seal. My question is on the seal I received from Rock Auto. I've attached a picture of the two, the one on the left is the original. The one on the right came from Rock Auto. As you can see, the one from Rock Auto is half as wide. Does anyone have experience using their seal here? I've used other sized seals like this on other not so critical areas but it's a lot of work if I have to pull this back out. I was unable to find a conversion chart for National to NOK seals. Rock Auto says it's the correct one. My nearest Subaru dealer is 90 miles away so if I have to go, I'd like to go once. The National (Federal Mogul) part number is 222558. The rest of the seals I received for the axles and rear main look correct. My inclination is to send it back to Rock Auto and make the trip to the dealer. What are your thoughts? Also, where do you guys shop online for your Subaru parts? Thanks for your help.
-
I have a 2002 Forester 5 speed AWD. When accelerating from a dead stop, letting out the clutch pedal, it frequently shakes the car like it is possessed by demons. I combat this by revving the motor a bit and/or double clutching. It does not do it once the car is moving. Also, it does not occur when the car is cold and gets noticeably worse after it has been driven awhile, fairly consistent then but still somewhat intermittent. Once the car is moving there is no sign of it, even accelerating heavily in upper gears. No bearing noise. Clutch was recently professionally replaced. Crawled under the car to check u-joints and drive line coupler. Only thing I could find was the rubber mount in the center driveshaft bearing coupler had a little play when I tried to twist it (very little but enough to see). The shaking feels like it starts in the tranny area but quickly transfers to the back/differential area. Any ideas what is causing this and how to fix it? Thanks, Joe -
I have an 1983 gl (ea81/4speed tranny) and was wondering if the 5 speed tranny from an 1989 (ea82) would fit? I know about the normal modifications for a 5 speed swap. I was mostly wondering if the year difference would affect the swap... -
Hi names Kellogg im 19 years old, i took out my buddys motor 2.2 outback wagon legacy 5 speed, i got it all done and put back together within a day. but now it smokes white smoke. im sure thats because of the chainsaw gas he put in it cause it was almost empty. but im more worried why wont it shift into any gear while its running? i can shift it into any gear and hit the clutch start it up and then let go of the clutch and it goes fine. but cant shift into any gears while its running. i did not replace anything besides the throwout bearing and the bearing fork. PLEASE HELP!!!!! i only got paid 100 bucks but it was my buddys car. I wanted to see this beast on the road with my lifted legacy wagon with a snorkal, pushbar and roof rack strait piped! -
I have a 99 OBS and I love it except that it's not a manual. it has 270,000 miles but I just replaced a lot of parts and the only thing wrong is a slight exhaust leak and play in the rack and pinion. My friend is selling a 98 legacy outback with 210,000 miles and who knows what maintenance history but it is a manual. I'm tempted to buy his and sell mine (yes a manual means that much to me) but I'd rather swap my finicky AT for a 5 speed. Is this even a viable choice, or a ridiculous undertaking that cost a lot of money? Any advice or links would be greatly appreciated as I really don't know what would be a smarter choice. -
Just bought a 2nd Generation 1988 Subaru GL 3 door hatchback 4 speed manual transmission with dual range (4 hi, 4 lo) with an EA81 engine. I've been searching this forum, but haven't found alot of info regarding the benefits of swapping my 4 speed manual for a 5 speed? There are alot of posts about swapping an automatic for a 5 speed, but that doesn't help me. The main reason I'm interested in doing this is I do alot of freeway driving, and I go about 65-70, which puts my rpms in the 3000-3200 range. I know that's not great for the engine, and I want this engine to last. I read on one post where a person said by swapping to a 5 speed, it lowered the rpms by 500 while highway driving. Is that true? I wanted more confirmation than 1 person before considering this. Are the gear ratios the same, or will I be able to be at a lower rpm going 65-70 if I swap to a 5 speed? What does a swap involve if I'm going from the 4 to 5 speed? I read that they made them in 5 speed with the EA 81 engine those same years, mine just happened to have a 4 speed manual. Can anyone confirm it that's true, Wikipedia isn't always correct. I would think it would be easier to find a 5 speed transmission from an EA 81 than EA 82 if that's the case..... Thanks for your help and replies! -
Hi; I have a 1984 turbo wagon with an automatic trans. The trans shifts and seems to work like it should, but I have a bad crunching and vibration when the car accelerates. The former owner had new axels installed so not them. I pulled the axels and the splined stubs appear to be loose, maybe something in the front diff? I also have a 1986 turbo sedan for a parts car, dual range 5 speed, that I would like to install into the wagon. Has anyone done a changeover like this? Would the later clutch pedal and cable work on the older car? Just from measuring none of the crossmembers look like they will work, so I guess that I will have to fabracate my own. The rear gears are the same 3:70's, but the sedan has LSD in it. Any ideas, input would really be appreciated.
-
is there a 5 speed transmission you can hook up to an ea71 engine in a 1980 brat? if so what is the easiest way to go about getting it done?
-
Hello, I have a 2002 Legacy L Wagon 5spd with 195k on it and it's in great shape, runs strong and I love it. I have put many hours into this car mostly in preventative maintenance (keeping the rust away is yearly task up here in SaltLand!). But anyway... my issue: A month or so ago I was pulling into a camping spot in some slightly off road conditions (which I do not normally do, I know it's AWD, but it's not a Jeep!). The place I was pulling into had shallow ruts and it was a very tight turn, and I had the steering wheel cranked all the way to the right and attempted to cross over the ruts and she stalled out because the front bumper cover hit a rock and I was being easy on the throttle. So, I was going to change my angle of approach and I backed up and tried again, and again, with the wheel pinned to the right, she shuttered, bucked and stalled out (remember, it's a manual transmission and I wasn't hammering the throttle). So, I then gave up on this way into the camp site and when I went to take off in first gear there was like this crunch, crunch sound coming from the front end. It was unmistakably a metal sound, so I thought maybe I was hitting a rock, so I got out of the car and looked under it to look for obstructions; and there was none. So I just shrugged my shoulders and continued on down the road. I started hearing like a "clack, clack" sound when I would let off on the throttle, and I thought maybe I broke a tooth on a CV joint or something. Later I noticed a whining when I got up to about 30 miles an hour, mostly when I let off on the throttle. It seems to go away when I give it throttle or am over 40mph. I showed a mechanic friend of mine the problem and he said not to worry about it... so I haven't been... UNTIL THE OTHER DAY! .... I was backing down a friend's dirt driveway and maybe going a little fast for being in reverse, but all of a sudden it just sounded like someone dropped a bag of ball bearings into my gearbox! It didn't entirely bind up tight (there were no skid marks) but it slowed way down, and as soon as this happened I threw the clutch in.... When I proceeded to back up, it seemed find again... It's been a week now, and it's still going, but has the whining and clicking sounds like it has since I broke whatever I broke. I will not be gunning it in reverse again! My question: what did I break, how can I fix it and how much longer do I maybe have until I will be without a ride? Has anybody else ever heard of anything like this or experienced anything like it? Any insight or direction would be appreciated. Thanks! Chris -
The Car: 1984 Subaru Brat EA81 Turbo - 5 speed D/R swap (3" body lift, increased tire size) ........................................................................... The issue: 1984 5-speed D/R Transmission has a small amount of play (side to side, up down movement) on both of the front splined-stubbed output shafts. on both (passenger and driver) sides of the Transmission. there is a noticable difference between the amount of lateral movement experienced in the front stub shafts (transmission) and the rear stub shafts (rear-differential). ...... i recently put in both new (not remanufactured) front CV-axle shafts, from O'reillys. (yes ive read all of your posts' about the low quality since acquisition). the axles went 200 miles and developed a significant amount of slop; to the point where i do not feel comfortable driving it. the inner CV axles (inner boot) on both front shafts are now quite sloppy. I popped out the pin and removed the Half shafts from the transmission splines (stub shaft) and found them to have some lateral (side to side) movement. I then compared this to a spare rear-differential i had in the shop and found the the transmission to have a noticable amount more slop than the rear-differential. ........................................................................... The Question: what is the correlation between the amount of slop on the stub shafts and its effect on the CV axles? vice versa? is it possible (or necessary) to tighten the stub shaft and remove the play? does an incorrect alignment increase the failure rate of CV axles? How can i get more life out of my half shafts? any other question and useful information on this topic?
