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Showing results for tags '5mt'.
Found 18 results
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Hi all, I'm looking to purchase a 2009 outback, 5mt. 160k miles. Hit something and the front bumper is cracked, along with the hood being a little wrinkled now. The steering wheel airbag deployed. I'm hoping to buy the car cheap, and replace the airbag myself. Is it just that simple? There are a lot of airbags on ebay for about $150, but they all say 4AT on the back of them. Does that mean they're not compatible with a 5 speed manual? Also, do I need to replace airbag control modules too? Seatbelts x4? I assume once I've done the manual labor, I need to have the components synced at a dealership? I haven't found a write-up on the forum for airbag replacement. OEM airbag from subaru is $550... Take care Greg -
Hi all, Looking for advice. I am looking at purchasing a 2007 OBW. 2.5i, 5mt with 245k on it. It's from an online auto-auction site, that just happens to have their physical address 5 minutes from my house. It's priced at about $1000. I'm able to go look at it, so that is a plus. Anyway, thoughts. Right now I'm assuming that the motor and/or the transmission is shot. I have the transmission/clutch covered, as I have a 5mt from an '05 LGT wagon with about 60k on it, and the clutch is brand new. Motor though, is a different question. Again, I assume it is toast. So, I wanted to know if anyone has ever bought a jdm import from ebay? They claim to have 50-60k on them, and the price is around $1900. If I go that route, should I replace all gaskets before throwing the motor in? Or, should I try and find a short-block/long block from any of the subaru dealers, costing close to $3k? I'm also assuming that the suspension will be tired, and possibly the brakes. Other than that, what else should I consider with this high mileage of OBW? I'm unfamiliar with this generation, so what else should I be looking at having failed or about to? My total price range for everything is $5500-$6000. I've looked at quite a few used cars from that price range, and I only find Subarus that are high mileage and beat-to-crap/neglected by their owners. I'm not really open to jumping to a new platform (GM, Ford, Honda, etc) as I very familiar with subaru, and my time is limited. UNLESS someone has a very compelling argument to do so. The goal is to have a dependable car for at least the next 6 years so that I can get through grad-school and my first few years of work while I pay my loans off. I have to do clinical rotations next year, and because of Covid and its ripple-effect(s), there's a good chance that I'll have to commute a long distance for at least one 12-week rotation. As long as the interior isn't burnt away from a fire, I am fine putting seat-covers on. I really just need the drivetrain (and I guess the A/C since I live in the desert) to work dependably. Are these motors (EJ253, SOHC correct?) prone to oil consumption? Or leakage like all subarus? If I buy one from the dealer, will it still have consumption issues if so? Thanks for your time guys, Greg https://www.copart.com/lot/43891860/clean-title-2007-subaru-legacy-outback-2-5i-nv-las-vegas (please don't buy it out from under me) @1 Lucky Texan@GeneralDisorder@Fairtax4me@Rampage
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My transmission is TY752VACAA the donor trans is TY752VA5AA. Both have exactly the same gear ratios ,except for 5th. Mine is .780 the donor is .825. what if any issues might I have, without swapping the rear diff or driveshaft. The Impreza that Im getting the trans from was originally an automatic. Someone had done a manual swap on it, I checked the vin decoder. The donor has a 1.8l ej18 engine in it now. I have a 2.2l ej22. I’m unsure of the rear diff on that (donor vehicle )if it was swapped when the manual was put in. But with all the gearing the same other than 5th, should I be good with just swapping the transmission?
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(updated with the answer) Symptoms: The transmission on my 5 speed 2000 Legacy GT (AWD) sounds like an angle grinder or go-cart (grinding/buzzing/putting noise). Started making noise overnight, in every gear and in neutral, sounds like something rotating/grinding and is proportional to the car's speed. When the car isn't moving there isn't any noise. Another interesting thing is that in 5th gear (possibly others, but most noticeable in 5th) it makes noise with 0 throttle, less noise with 1/8th throttle, and then more noise again if you go past that. What more knowledgeable friends have said: A trusted mechanic said it's probably a bearing in the transmission, but he doesn't work on them so I'm not confident he knows the exact issue. A good friend said he had a similar issue on his 2000s era Forester, and it was the center differential, but I've heard that if the differential is the issue, the symptoms will get worse while making tight turns, and I haven't experienced that, at least at low speeds. Possibly relevant info: I had a rear tire replaced this past summer, they didn't shave it down. I measured them and it was essentially the same size. Maybe a small difference in diameter caused an issue? ANSWER: I'm transcribing from the mechanic so this may not be 100% accurate: The transfer gear was split, which damaged/destroyed center differential (and the back clip came off). The transfer case damaged as well. The mechanic said it was just normal wear and tear, so I'm not sure if this had anything to do with one of the tires being replaced. -
The patient: 1999/2000 RX Liberty wagon (EJ251) 5spd manual. Issue: swapped in second hand gearbox (pick a part special!) only to find the vehicle now has a wobble like feeling from the front left when under acceleration, becomes worse with heavier acceleration. All other times the vehicle generally feels unsettled. Both of these issues were not present with the last gearbox. The other issue is that I have that totally awesome “catch-let go-catch-let” go feeling or experience when turning tight such as when performing a U turn - classic symptoms of a dead centre diff.Questions: 1) can a stuffed centre diff create the issue with the front end that I’m experiencing?2) can the viscous gel stuff leak from the viscous LSD housing, and if so, what does it look like? Question 2 was asked because after stripping down the old box that was replaced, I’ve found a ball of what looks like silicone near the front diff area, and in between the drive and output of the centre diff is the same sort of material. It does seem like silicone but it’s just odd. This gearbox has presumably done over 400k km now - if it hasnt been changed at some point. It was swapped because of a bearing noise and it was slipping out of gear (possibly due to shot pitch stopper rod and gearboxs mount).Upon rotating the centre diff it seems the noise is in the rear bearing. This centre diff is good so itll end up in the wagon either way - unless that grey material is the viscous gel stuff. The plan is to build one good box from the two. I’ll be replacing the front diff bearings, all seals and most likely use the centre diff bearings from the replacement box as there’s zero noise from this box, other than the noise when performing a U turn. Cheers Bennie -
Hi all, I am about to throw my SOHC 2.5/DOHC 2.5 frankenmotor into a '98 outback in pretty great (cosmetic) condition.... but it is 200,000 miles. I have gone through about 4 different 5mts in the past 6 years... All were cheap, but all were high mileage. I'm planning on purchasing a transmission that came out of the '05 Legacy GT wagons... Transmission code: TY757VBAAB... The gear ratios look to be a dream! With my wheel/tire choice, I can be at 3000 rpm and going 75 mph down the interstate and thus keep very good fuel economy. My problem though... In the picture of the transmission that I'm looking at, there doesn't appear to be a speedo-sensor installed... There is a plug circled in orange... Anybody have a guess if there will be a speedo gear in there when I take the plug out? If not, I'm assuming that I'd have to split the case halves to install? Just a matter of spending the time to do so? Unfortunately I'm not in a position to get this information as the transmission is coming from an online auction source. Supposed to be at about 50,000 miles. I guess I could go without a speedometer, and just memorize the tachometer-to-gear-ratio-to-wheel-size speeds off of a chart... I figure it'll last much longer behind a NA motor versus turbo... http://www.rallispec.com/downloads/Transmission ID Chart_Public.pdf http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru Transmission Chart Thanks all, Greg
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Somewhere along the road from Alaska to Utah one of the boots of my front right CV axle blew a hole and I still haven't dealt with it properly, the axle is getting pretty noisy now. I browsed the forums here pretty thoroughly and compared what I read to the FSM Diagrams, then pulled the trigger on this axle from Rockauto which they have listed as fitting a front right 4wd MT Fuel Injected 1987 GL with my SOHC engine. After getting the axle in the mail today though I counted the splines and realized it has 25, not the 23 the manual says I'll need. So I'm wondering if anyone else has experience with this so I can know whether or not the axle will fit before I tear the car apart and count the splines on the old one?
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I am replacing my 98 Legacy Outback 2.5 transmission - 96-TY752V2DCA. This is my first transmission project. Could the community here please provide input on what transmissions will work? I have been searching the forum, but am having trouble nailing this down. My goal is to find the least-used transmission I can afford. It will help if I can look at a broader selection of used transmissions. Thanks! Here is what I think I already understand: phase 1 engines like mine have 2 bolts up top and 2 nuts at the bottom holding the bell housing to the engine block phase 2 engines use 6 bolts and 2 nuts, but the holes match up and using just 4 attachment points is OK; I either need to match my current 4.111 forward drive ratio or install a matching rear differential with the replacement transmission; changes in other gear ratios may impact torque or freeway RPM and are engineered to match the weight and performance of particular cars, but if I'm a relatively boring driver I should not be impacted too much by these changes. my current front differentials use spring pins to secure the front axles. This may not be the case with a replacement; 5MT manual transmissions continue to be installed in Subarus to the present day and will still bolt up to my 20 year old engine. Here is what I'm pretty sure I don't know: what transmissions are compatible with my hydraulic push clutch? Are there other compatibility issues that need to be considered? Thanks for any help you can provide! -
I have an 85 Brat with the 3AT. I also have an 89 GL parts car with a 5 speed D/R. I want to put the 5 speed into the brat but, I have to get rid of the GL by this weekend, so i wanna pull the transmission and other stuff I need. My question is what do I need to pull from the car for the swap? If the list is somewhere on here just post the link. If not please help!
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Ok Guys, Greetings from Chile. First time Loyale owner, 1989 1.8 ea82, carbed 5 MT /DR. Lots of previous owners, rough life and history. Lets hope any of the Gurus here can lend me a hand. A week after i got it, and without any signs of overheating head gasket on passanger side went off, just sitting iddle on the driveway . From there on it was engine out and rebuild, I have done the following so far: -Full gaskets (Intake, Exhaust, heads, oilpan) -Resurface heads( usual cracks between the valves found, did nothing) -Polished piston cilinders (Cilinder N°3 had a broken ring and was scratched) -New rings -New timming belt kits -"New-ish" valves, couldnt find them brand new arround here ( a couple of the old ones had cracks in their heads, so they had to go) -Helicoil in sparkplug hole #1 and #4. -Helicoil and new studs on exhaust drivers side. -New filters all arround -New heating elements hoses. Oil and water pump havent been touched. Mechanich crash course it has been Took it to the emisison test, and it did not pass. Cilinder 1 was low on compression and running on 3 cilinders. TImming belt was off one tooth, fixed it...still wont pass...but almost. A little tinkering with the carb screws and presto, emission passed, now street legal. Took it on a highway and street test, all seemed fine, smoother than ever, little noise, Kinda torquey! and averaging 29 MPG Life seemed good! Yesterday on the ride home (some 40 miles up the mountains) Hot it went ( outside temp barely 60F)...halway up the road it felt kinda slugish, low on power, always kept it between 2.000 and 3.000 rpm range, and the needle kept creeping its way up, when it reached halfway mark i slowed down on the side of the road and it kep going up until the red zone...started praying and it went down Ha Ha, after that i let it sit, and then cheked all fluids, all was good.oil, coolant, everything... Kept driving her, and then again after a some 10 miles..Temp started going up again everytime a hill was on sight. Intake and exhaust hoses for the radiator, both hot and seem to be flowin ok. So here i am, with a freshly rebuilt ea82 that doesnt seem to wanna stay ...well...fresh nor cold.. Sooo...What could cause it to feel low on power, kinda draggy, and at the same time could cause overheating ? *It is Not, burning oil, drinking coolant, nor dripping in any excess way, there is a small oil leak from the oilpump pulley, and Hidraulic fluid leek from the steering as far as i can see. ** There is a kinda of rattling arround the 3.000 rpm mark, under load, like a tinggling, or bell-like sound.(maybe valve rattling) -
Hello Everyone, greetings from South America new to forum posting, long time voyeur. I recently picked up a 89 loyale 4wd ea82 carbed, 5mt dual range in regular body conditions but with a really smooth running engine, not so smooth tranny! My question is, What is the number of positions the 4wd lever should have (curved lever, not the "T" style lever found on brats), and what does its supossed to do on each? As of now i have figured out: 2H N ( should this be a 4 High?. No light at dash)) 4L ( this posittion turns on light at dash) Normal should be? 2h 4high 4low Little info: On purchase chek, i noticed a squirring sound when putting it on 4wd, (first step of lever y assume). Previous owner said it was only the rear diff being dry and that i would just have to pour some oil in it and it will stop making the sound, he offered me a deal, 200 usd of, if i took it like that, v/s regular price if he refilled it and it stopped the sound. Took the gamble, only to later find out that rear diff spins all the time (yikes!) Refilled it and it seemed to work fine! But still, cant find or seem to find how the heck to get it on 4wd High. Looked under the car when doing the oil change, when movin the 4wd lever it posittively made the rod on the transfer move in and out without issues.
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What would be involved replace a 2.5 AT with a 2.2 5MT motor . Taking 2.2MT motor from a 1992 Legacy into a 1998 Outback that has a 2.5AT. Thanks
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something happened about 1/2 mile from home this morning, immediately after a 'gentle' u-turn. Now there's a 'clattering' noise - seems kinda rhythmic as I went home at slow speed in 2nd gear.and related to road speed, not rpm No overheat, I don't 'think' there's loss of power.... too dark to look at anything yet. Hoping for axle problem, fearing transmission or, ....engine. The rhythmic part gets me - concerned it's valve train related. -
I dropped a strutless front knuckle last weekend on my 99 OBS, and yanked apart the inner joint on the passenger CV shaft. D'oh. Where can I find this rebuild kit? Or can I just order the boot kit with the circlip, jam some grease it it and boot it? Am I missing something? Thanks -
So I can see there is a ton of information available (relatively) about swapping the EJ22 into EA81 Brats. Especially in that page on numbchuxconversions.com, makes it seem like a piece of cake. I want to swap an EJ22 and 5MT into my Brat out of an old legacy, but for some reason the very few I have been able to find in the area have the auto transmission, and if I don't start my Brat swap soon, it just isn't going to happen. I'm working on a budget, so I'm not about to start buying parts individually, I just want the whole car. I'm wondering how much more difficult it would be to use the EJ25 SOHC, because there are loads of those for sale around here for really good deals. I know about the head gasket issues, I'd of course take care of that before putting the motor in, just finished doing it on my 02 legacy. The Brat would absolutely fly with that 2.5, so my question is why does nobody use those? Is it significantly more difficult? Does it just not fit properly? Thanks guys.
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Appreciated Fellows, Today, I was driving my beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" doing my usual daily errands, when I noticed that the GearBox was noisier than it used to be; despite that somehow it always has been noisy when I left the gas pedal only; but now, besides that such described noise is louder, it also developed a New noise that sounded like a fast little gear, almost similar to a turbo whistle, but coming from inside the GearBox; that fast pitch noise is mainly noticeable during acceleration on Second Gear. So, I came home to lunch, and right after that, when the Drivetrain cooled down, I went to check the dipstick on the GearBox, and it came out dripping dark fluid, it showed oil up to the full mark, then such oil was covered with something that seemed to be Water, whose mark went up more than Twice on the Dipstick, than the oily full mark. I did the old paper napkin Test: Let a drop from the dipstick to drip directly on a clean paper napkin, and the oil mark stayed dark and solid in the center, and a surrounding ring of wetness grown around: thus usually means Water in Oil. I have been with this Subie for the last thirty years and never experienced such a thing, nor in any other car, so I wonder... ► How the Heck, water found its way inside the GearBox? ► Or could this be some sort of moisture buildup? Please let me know your experiences with this issue / similar issues, the possible causes and ways to avoid it from happening again. I check the fluids on my cars on a weekly basis, it was alright; and the last time I went driving on a pond, was ~ a year ago; also I've not washed the engine in around two years... For those who don't Know, my Subie is a 1985 GL wagon with its original EA82 engine and 5MT GearBox, runs with a 2" Lift + 25" tires. Kind Regards.
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Hey all! I've been poking around the site searching for info on 6-Speed swap. I'm trying to find out who has paired a 6-Speed to their EJ motors and what all it entailed. In the mean time... -
My friend needs a tranny for his 2000 forester, 5 spd. I was told it had a 411 gear ratio but I don't know much more than that. Anyone know which year trannys might interchange? I was told only 99 to 01 foresters and no other models but I have a hard time believing that. Thanks for any help.
