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Showing results for tags '98'.
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Four days ago I returned to my 98 Subaru, it having been parked in Yosemite Valley for sixteen hot days. Not only did the car start without complaint, but I used the front wipers to wash away a lot of dust. No problems. Two days ago, while hanging with a few friends, I gave the car to my friend and her car mechanic brother to not only drive to the market, but also to get his impressions on the overall health of the car. He reported back that it ran well, sounded good, etc . . . Last night I went to use the wipers and they didn't work. Back one works fine, fronts, not---I can flick them on and hear the motor running, but there's no action from the wipers, which are bolted down snug. So who broke my wipers? was it my friend, or maybe her nervous mechanic brother, or maybe--as things do just break---the wiper mechanism just decided to die? Should I no longer allow mechanics who I am not already paying, sit in my car? I stopped wondering if I could fix it when told to remove or check under the "cowling" which took me a few trips through the index to figure what that is . . . . Could I have blown a fuse? unhooked a wire? flipped a switch? Thanks for any insights. -
So I went to swap out my '98 LGT 4EAT back to it's original transmission as I had taken it out to repair (Duty C etc) but I evidently fubar'd the oil pump putting it back in because once it was fully seated it would not turn more than .5-1" But that isn't my issue. When I put the temp trany back into car I can not get the sifter cable to install correctly. Even after putting the inside adjuster screw all the way forward/inward. I still need about a 1/2" further. No man handling to get it to work either. Note this is like the 3 or 4th time installing auto trans into this particular car. I went by the FSM Inhibitor Switch and adjusting guidelines. I looked at the lever assembly and it seems 100% AOK. IE not bent out of shape etc. (though I don't have a picture of one) I'm at a loss. -
Greetings all, Im replacing my DOHC 2.5 engine for an SOHC 2.0 JDM... Is anyone familiar with that type of swap?? Do you know what kind of issues i would be encountering?? So far i was so lucky as to take out my old DOHC engine. Realized i couldn't use my intake manifold (duh). So I'm curious as to know anyones pros and cons to my upcoming project. -
I drive a 1998 Forester I've had it throw codes quite a few times now. First time, a month ago, there was a lot of lurching, it was repeated misfires. Got sparkplugs changed (went with NGKs) and new plug wires as well. Ran nicely after. I had it diagnosed at an autozone, so while I think it was 3 and 4 misfiring, I didn't get a look at the exact diagnosis so I'm not 100% sure. Second time, used my OBD II reader, 3 & 4 misfires. Had them pretty consistently, swapped the coil pack. They seemed to stop. The engine threw the same cylinder 3 and 4 misfire codes on the way home today. I've heard from friends that injectors seem unlikely since the misfires wouldn't be this random if that were the issue. Not all that sure where to go next. MAP sensor or vacuum leak? Possibly irrelevant facts: 1. Swapped my clockspring last night. Successful. Airbag light is off and horn and cruise work again. 2. Driving (or trying to drive) from Ogden, Utah to Oshkosh, Wisconsin in 3 days. Joy. -
I'm a teenager who recently bough a '98 Impreza L with 262xxx miles after getting rear-ended and totaling my '97 Camry. I'm just looking for tips and advice from wiser and more experienced Subaru owners. Anything from a new air intake to a different muffler tip or new exhaust all together. It's a low powered engine and I want to have the kick my old turbo charged Camry had again. I've already replaced my radio and done some cosmetic work. Any input would be great. I just need help dudes. -
98 ej22 in a Legacy L. ~141k I'm pretty stumped at this point and I appologize for a long post - bare with me here: After an oil change I start the engine with the knock sensor disconnected. I then reset the ECU or clear the code. Don't ask me why - it prevents the bogging issue - it works for me. After the latest oil change at 140k (Castrol 10w-40, FRAM filter), however, I have been getting the typical knock sensor bogging issue even after the tribal oil change dance. I moved the knock sensor to the location of a factory ground point (on bracket above starter), reset the ECU and drove for about 100 miles. Knocking? Yes. Hesitation, bogging BS? No. Corrosion was apparent on the mating surfaces so I sanded them back to clean metal. I then tried the old knock sensor in the factory location, reset ECU and got no joy. I do observe the ~15mile learning cycle by the ECU before it begins to bog. It is at this point I was confident a new knock sensor would fix my woes. I purchased a new Knock Sensor from Autozone and installed in correct location with about 15 ft-lbs making sure to orient the wire lead so that it was clear of block protrusions. Reset the ECU and got no joy. Now I started to suspect a bad connection so I cut the wire and hardwired the old knock sensor in sans connector. That resulted in no change of symptoms (see note 1 below). Now I was becoming befuddled and a bit ticked off. I can change the performance of the car by relocating the knock sensor but a new one won't fix the problem. I figured I didn't need a new knock sensor and, at this point, I started to march down the path of "Gee, maybe there's too much knock!" so I returned the new KS to Autozone. I drained/refilled and burped (to death) cooling system and installed a new thermostat (the bigger OEM type) and a new rad cap. Operates right around 180-190F according to OBDII data so it is not running hot. Then I went after the ignition system a bit: I installed $40 NGK wires and NGK Irridium plugs gapped to a tight 40 thou. I also installed 500 pounds of copper all over the place to enhance grounding. I cleaned the mating surfaces of the igniter and it's mounting plate, although the igniter is currently sitting on two ring terminals - one as a spacer only - the other with a lead directly to a ground point on same sheet metal platform igniter is mounted to. The coils are about 25k miles old and I have an older set which I have swapped out with no change in symptoms. The coil contacts are clean and I use dielectric grease on the plug wire boots. Then I filled up with high octane gas and reset the ECU. With the original KS installed in factory location I still got the bogging issue. When I move the KS to my off-the-block location the bogging goes away and there's no audible knock with high octane gas. So, at least I know that high octane gas really has a higher octane. After all this I went to the junkyard to source an OEM connector and soldered it in. There is a short section where the sheilding is soldered together but the rest is completely sheilded - see note 1 below. I then went back to Autozone to buy a new knock sensor. I did this with the hope that I would get another knock sensor (not the one I returned) but I got the same one. I'll ask and see if I can try another next time I'm by there. I purchased a BAFX Bluetooth OBDII adapter (cool tool) and tried to read engine parameters with Torque Lite. All I got was engine temp and load so an actual analysis of engine parameters was a dead end there. (If I buy Torque PRO will it give more engine data or is my car just too old-school?) At this point I'm thoroughly stumped. I will check the main harness connections but I don't expect anything to come of it. I saw some other threads on USMB with good info but it seems the threads just died without any real resolution - here, here, and here. I can't imagine it is anything other than knock sensor related. My next steps are to check the car's recall history and see if I can get a hold of a second new knock sensor to test the infant mortality theory. If a third knock sensor makes no change perhaps the ECU is to blame. All pointers/tips/ideas are welcome and appreciated! I have a degree in Electrical Engineering and can surmise that the real need for the sheilding on the knock sensor wire is when ignition parts begin to leak their current i.e. a leaky spark plug cable that is jumping to metal on the engine somewhere rather than fully to the plug. I can't imagine that there is any other source of electrical interference in the engine bay that could induce electric current in the wire - mine was a short, unsheilded piece which, I believe, means there has to be a LOT of unshielded current flowing somewhere else before any induction will take place in the short unsheilded wire to the knock sensor. -
Can I put a 97 forester transmission in a 98 forester? They both are auto transmission and AWD. Sorry if it is a dumb question I'm not very knowledgeable on cars. I bought a 98 forester and I need to replace the transmission. -
Suspension on my '95 Legacy is pretty shot (well at the least the rear for sure) I keep hearing that Outback struts will bolt right up and lift the car about 1.5 to 2 inches. I think this is a great idea. But I feel like there is more to it? Do I need outback springs? spacers? anything like that. If anyone can give me any leads/video's/info on this swap. That'd be Great. thanks- travis