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Showing results for tags 'AC'.
Found 16 results
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98 obw 2.2 251k. AC has not worked in years. System has been evacuated and open for a long time. I was going to replace compressor only until I saw black sludge like oil dripping from the compressor and metal bits. Tried to flush all components and it was fruitless. One thing led to another and I found myself replacing everything including hoses when bolts snapped. I am hear to tell you that you can remove the evaporator in 30 minutes. No you do not need to remove the dash. -
85 BRAT, where is AC thermostat? I want to locate every component. Pic
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Hi all, '98 OBW, 2.5L high compression build, 5MT After moving to Las Vegas, Nevada about two years ago, I've finally begun wanting to use my air conditioning system. Before moving down here, I had a mechanic pull vacuum on the system and charge it. I think he put in less than 2 lbs? It was a very minimal amount. Here are the symptoms that I'm experiencing. Blows cold while driving, and cool while idling. While driving, when the A/C compressor kicks on, there is a VERY noticeable decrease in performance... almost like I've instantaneously been loaded with a 700 lb 4x8 U-Haul trailer...It'll buck/shake the car slightly. I know I've read multiple times on the forum that the A/C can rob power, but this seems exceptional. The motor has good compression (in the 200s) and has lots of power when not using A/C. I am in the habit of turning the A/C off when accelerating from stops. With this amount of strain placed on the motor though, why doesn't it just stall out when idling? The motor doesn't stumble or strain when cycling the A/C on/off while idling. What's the deal? I've checked the gap on the clutch, and it seems to be within specifications. It also appears that this clutch isn't replaceable? I've looked at the different write-ups on this forum, and the videos available, but NONE of them show the type of compressor that mine has... The Triangle with the 3 circular pieces and the single bolt in the center... I've attached the pressure gauge from one of those auto-store recharge kits, and supposedly the system is topped-off. Does this have anything to do with my neutral switch? I've checked my Short Term/Long term fuel trims while idling and I think I don't have a vacuum leak, as they're in the negatives. I'm just worried that I'm going to jump timing because of the instantaneous loading that is presenting, or the A/C is going to catabolize itself while driving and having to replace EVERY part of the system. Thanks for your time, Greg -
I removed the dealership AC from a brat to put in another (will not see the other for a while) and I thought the non-AC brats had a box/duct with a vacuum actuated flap to cover/uncover the fresh air inlet. My brat now has an opening for outside air and if this item exists I wanted to install it to control fresh air/recirculation. If so does any one have a picture of the item for some friends who are looking for this for me? -
I'm working on a 92 loyale 4wd wagon AT and AC. When I select anything on the panel the AC compressor runs and cycles on and off while its running down the road. I can tell because it pulls on the engine when the compressor engages. I have seen defrost cycles run the AC compressor on some cars, but not the heater. Is this designed into these cars? This is the 2nd panel I have changed on the car because the vacuum valves inside the panel dried up, but both have acted the same way with respect to the AC running. Any suggestions or help is appreciated!
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The AC system on my 2003 Legacy Outback has been out of coolant for a long time, so I'm going to replace the receiver drier before I vacuum the whole system out. My repair manual says that I should add 10ml of refrigerant oil to the system when I put in the new receiver drier, to replace what gets taken out in the old part. Does anyone have an opinion about whether this is really necessary? As far as I can tell, refrigerant oil is only sold in bottles of around 240ml. It seems crazy that I would pay $10 for a bottle, use 1/24 of it, and throw the rest away. If people were really regularly adding 10 ml at a time, wouldn't it be sold in smaller bottles? If I really do need to add the oil, what weight do I get? AutoZone sells three different weights of PAG oil, but there's nothing in the manual or on the sticker under the hood about that. And where do I add it? Does it matter whether I squirt it into the intake or outtake hole on the receiver drier? Thanks for any guidance! -
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3h8j6sXR813blBiY05haDVJcWc/view?usp=sharing I have a 98 EJ22 in my 92 Loyale Wagon. I put in a D/R tranny, gave it a 2-4" lift and just last week put on the stronger springs that JesZek suggested along with all new struts and all new 1/2 shafts. She's running pretty awesome! But first! I need my AC for the upcoming hot summer! I scavenged all the R-12 parts out of a 93 Legacy (compressor, compressor bracket, tensioner pulley, lines, receiver/dryer/pressure switch) and paid Mac's Radiator here in Portland a large chunk of change to mate all the fittings together and integrate it into my Loyale (so it hooks up to the Loyale condenser and evaporator. They also ran through the system, changed out O rings, flushed and pressure tested it. They said it's all clean, flushed, the compressor seems to work fine, the system holds pressure and they also replaced the drier. Unfortunately they wouldn't put R-12 in it until I re-installed the Sub Fan and got it wired correctly. So I've spent the day searching for all the different wiring diagrams for each donor car and locating most of the necessary wires from the EJ ECU. I already have 2 fan relays that I set up. Plus 2 slim fans, pulling from the inside of the radiator. The main fan is switched on with Pin 74, a Red/Blue wire that goes to ground when the engine gets to about 90 degrees C. I was told the sub fan is switched on with Pin 73 after an even higher temp is reached. Pin 73 is a Green/White wire that I tried to use for my 2nd fan. It never seemed to work no matter how hot I got the engine so I ended up wiring a toggle switch next to the steering column for its relay. My understanding now is that it (Pin 73) is grounded when the A/C is turned on. My goal is to get the A/C wired up properly, so that the ECU does what it needs to do: Kick up the IAC for 1/2 a second and then switch on the A/C compressor relay and fire up the Sub Fan simultaneously. I would like to run the compressor trigger line on the A/C relay through the pressure switch on my drier so that it has that as a backup safeguard as well. I will also run the toggle switch to the A/C relay ground so I can keep manual control of the 2nd fan as needed. Here are my questions: Where on my 92 Loyale can I find the wire that is activated when I press "Defrost" or "A/C" on my dash? Is it grounded or hot when I turn on the A/C? If it's hot like I imagine, then I want to run this +12v wire to the hot on my A/C relay, and to the compressor trigger wire via the Pressure switch and A/C relay contact? I am assuming that Pin 31, Blue and Orange will provide the ground to fire the A/C relay and turn on the compressor. I'm also assuming that Pin 60 receives a +12v signal from my A/C "on" hot wire when I hit the A/C buttons and this gives the ECU the heads up that I'm calling for A/C so it can do it's job. Right? So, yeah, my biggest questions are: Where can I find the A/C wire on my Loyale? and is +12v the correct voltage to input into Pin 60 on my ECU when I call for cold air? Hopefully my link above shows the picture I drew of what I intend to do. Can anybody confirm or deny my ideas?? -
Hello again- So I'm looking on Craig's List at a 1985 GL that has a 1996 Ej22 engine swap - and no AC. Is it at all possible to add AC to this car, and if so, what kind of cost and contortions am I looking at? Thanks! -
My heat and air all work wonderfully, however they will not blow on 4(high). In the last year the blower motor assembly has been replaced, as well as the blower resistor, and the system does not behave any different. I checked the plug to the blower motor and on all settings and there is 12 volts coming in, however, the plug is not grounding on the number 4 fan setting. Any help is appreciated. Cheers. -
My parts vehicle (1990 Loyale) has the inboard A/C and my daily driver (1989 GL) has the A/C thats by the battery, the old A/C that was on my GL was made by KIKI DIESEL, thats all i knew, well it was almost impossible to find a replacement but apparently some nissan or something fitted mine so there it is now, my question is, if my A/C or alternator are compatible with this other version of the EA82? and why did subaru make 2versions of how the A/C mounted on the engine? if there is a way to mount these into my other engine? it would be nice to have spares. thanks! 1st picture is 1990 Loyale (blue) 2nd picture is 1989 GL (tanish) -
I've been reading around and I think I've figured out my a/c issue but due to my rather novice knowledge I'd be interesting in hearing some other opinons. Oh, my car is a 2001 Subaru Legacy L with 220,000km on it. Air conditioning worked last summer, there was a warm spell early in the summer and the a/c seems to work decently enough but I only used it for five or ten minutes. Now that summer has set in I went to turn it on a couple weeks ago and nothing happened. It still blew air but nothing cold, compressor didn't turn on and clutch (?) didn't do anything. I turned to the Internet, my Hayes manual and USMB. First thing I found to do was clip the two green plugs togethor under the steering wheel. Both fans on the rad turned on and off as they should and the relay seemed to work for the a/c. Went back to do more research and came back out. Took the caps off the pressure lines for the a/c and stuck a screwdriver onto the pins. Both gave a hiss, so not completely empty. I only did each for half a second, didn't want any getting out that didn't need to. After some more reading the third thing I tried was jumping the pressure switch located near the back of the passenger side of the engine compartment. Unplugged the cord, jumped the contacts and pressed the a/c button. The compressor came on and clutch caught. I tried turning off and on the a/c by the button a few times and the compressor and clutch went off and on. I let it run for a few minutes (with the a/c on) but it just blew warmish air. From my reading if jumping that works then it could be two things, either the switch or low freon. Since jumping the pressure switch worked but it only blew warmish air even though there was still some pressure in the system I'm guessing low freon is my problem. Would anyone with more experience care to comment? Hopefully I'm on the right track. Thanks! -
I had to replace my engine on my 2003 legacy, (long story) The short version is never let anybody change your oil. When I go to recharge the AC the bubbling shown in the attached occures, What do I need to replace, Thank you. subaru2003legacyAC.MOV
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That be frost there mateys!
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So my "newish" 1992 Legacy Wagon had the AC compressor start clicking in January. I had the shop disconnect the compressor so I could use the rear defogger without the noise of the failing compressor. Well, summer is here and I love road trips and don't really care for back sweat. The girlfriend has given me a choice, fix the AC or get a new car. Any recommendations? I've read that converting from a R12 to R134A is about a $1k. Ouch!!! Cheers! -d -
Is it possible to install AC in a 79 brat? If so....how much and how difficult is it? Thanks! -
Apologies if this has already been answered elsewhere in the forums but I did a search and couldn't find much on maintenance of my a/c unit in my 78 Wagon GL. Everything seems to kick on when I turn the A/C knob and for a second she actually pumps out some cool air but then goes luke warm. I looked on the unit for a port to recharge it with a conventional recharge kit but can't seem to see where I would even begin to think about putting anything in. Anyone familiar with recharging a unit like this? Any help would be appreciated. PS: I understand that a few folks are vehemently anti A/C in these old Soobs but down here in Southern AZ I will take a bit of power loss for the pure necessity some days of air conditioning.
