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Showing results for tags 'ATF'.
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Hello All, Its been several years since I've posted, but I come to you all for your wisdom. Patient: - 2008 outback XT limited, 5EAT, 157k miles, owned since ~152k miles Symptoms: - Transmission slipping, occasional hard shifts - RPMs rise when accelerating from a stop with non proportional increase in vehicle speed, bangs 2nd and 3rd gear sometimes. - "Rubbing sound" when car is running and is put in reverse or drive etc. Sound goes away when in park or neutral. The sound can be described as a light sand paper sound. May be the transmission bands slipping; I am not sure what the source of the sound is. - AT Fluid Temp light illuminates at times. first time i saw this light was after about 3 miles of some very low speed off roading. - Coolant Overheating on very large climb (3000ft, over 5 miles, in 90°+ heat) suspect partially related to ATF dumping heat into radiator. - AT fluid temp light illuminated on a 3 mile trip around town, immediately after recent maintenance*. Recent Maintenance: - Timing belt, water pump, thermostat, 11MM Oil pump, coolant temp sensor, coolant (radiator out), - Replaced ATF filter, refilled ATP to "full" mark using Subaru ATF while engine is running. - Power steering pump, engine oil cooler gasket, brakes, other unrelated blah blah My thoughts: - Intention was to replace the ATF as part of this job as well, but to keep issues separate the ATF change will be performed later. - Since the transmission was slipping prior to all the unrelated engine maintenance, (and only the ATF cooler and filter loop was opened, but refilled) the transmission should otherwise be slipping, heating up the flood, and shifting hard as it was prior to the radiator removal event. My questions: Any ideas as to what is causing the slipping? I suspect slipping and hard shifting is somewhat separate, as the hard shifting could be due to something valve body related. Should I proceed with a drain and replace of the ATF and return to full mark (while engine is running) or don't bother. Am I looking at a potential torque converter, valve body assembly, full transmission replacement? Thanks all! Related threads I've found: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/171114-outback-5eat-vs-cvt/?tab=comments#comment-1417184 https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/170318-5eat-blown-transmission-cooler-fitting/?tab=comments#comment-1411338 https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/171001-fb25-engine-reliability/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1417221 https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/170658-transmission-engine-or-all-the-above/?tab=comments#comment-1413879 ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/170283-2005-turbo-xt-outback-exhaust-question/?tab=comments#comment-1411088 https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/170283-2005-turbo-xt-outback-exhaust-question/?tab=comments#comment-1411071 https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/169577-05obxt-vs-03-forester/?tab=comments#comment-1405536 -
Hey super new. And there is probably a good forum you can point me to. But here is the issue I am having with my 1989 FWD GL. I just bought the car it has 100,000 miles and looks to be in ok condition. While driving it I noticed it was slow going in and out of gears and had a lot of trouble in reverse. When in reverse It would rev and slowly back up like a boat then it would get more traction and be fine. NBD I thought, it was old and cost me a couple of hundred bucks and when it goes bad I’ll put some hair on my chest and learn a bit more about cars. Lol. The next day while driving the transmission decides that going into gears isn’t cool. Press down on the gas and it revs like it’s in neutral. I check the fluids. (Which I promise I was going to do that that day.) Everything looks good except the ATF is empty. That can’t be good. So I fill it to proper levels at proper temps. Shift through the gears. Drain, clean the atf filter and pan. Refill. The car still doesn’t move. It’s not leaking any atf. Not a drop. So after some research I have a few ideas. Governor gear getting apple cored. Vacuum Modulator sucking atf into the engine and burning it. or A host of issues that all at up to transmission says no. THANKS IN ADVANCE!
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2010 Forester with 90000 miles. About 3000 miles ago I changed the power steering fluid with the Dexron III. Everything was fine but recently it developed a problem: when the motor is cold the power steering starts binding. To avoid binding I put the transmission in neutral, raise the RPMs a little and the problem goes away. I do not experience any problems with the warm engine. YouTube search shows that I probably have sticking valves in the power steering rack and recommends Seafoam TransTune. Has anybody used it? Will it help? And the main question: did I cause it? I am looking for some help/suggestion, Sam -
I have an Impreza 2.0L 4AT 2008 at 100k mark and the gearbox is acting up: slow to shift, rough shift, vibrations on D when stopped. Inspected the ATF, level is good, but color is weird: clear, slight yellowish, almost just like fresh engine oil. Likely wrong oil was replaced by someone before me. Also manual states that vibration can be caused by higher viscosity ATF (dexron III instead of VI). The manual also list possible mechanical issues causing the delays, but let's try flush first. I know there are different opinions, flush vs. drain, let's not discuss that here. I decided to do a full flush. Now I was searching the internetz how that could be DIY'ed... And oh man, some people are brave. In other words, I did not find a safe way this could be DIY'ed without fancy flush machine that only large specialized shops have. Did I miss something? Was even thinking about making a special pump myself. -
OK. 2000 Outback with 2.5 and 4eat. Son thought it was an off-road vehicle and did some mudding and crashed the transmission pan on a rock. Sloow leak from tiny hole in dent, eventually would not engage drive and that's when I was informed. Lots of mud removed, pan replaced, internal filter while I was there, new fluid. Runs super. Couple weeks later son complains car not engaging drive again. See posts about leaky seals and bad pumps etc. So decide to get Trans-x. At Autozone with Trans-x in hand find out atf not registering on dipstick! In with Trans-x and nearly 2 qt of atf and all ok again. NEXT DAY it is 1qt down again and I CANNOT FIND A LEAK ANYWHERE! Are there any mystery places atf can go??? -
Hello all. I recently purchased a 1990 Legacy LS Wagon from a couple who used it only to drive back and forth from their condo in Salt Lake City to Alta Ski Resort and back. At the time of purchase it had only 113k miles and they were the original owners. The car is in great shape and I hope to make it last for miles to come. I don't drive often but do plan to use it for highway trips and occasional times when AWD is required. I'm fairly mechanically inclined and feel very comfortable working on older Japanese vehicles such as this one. This is my second 1st gen Legacy. A couple questions regarding the Auto tranny: Even though they took good care of the vehicle and serviced it regularly I don't know that they knew much about the vehicle. I have most of the maintenance records. The previous owners stated they had the transmission replaced about 20k ago. I have the work receipt and I don't notice any problems. The power light did a flashing routine and after some searching found the diagnostic routine that someone here or on another Subaru forum posted. It also prompted me to check the atf fluid levels according to the manual. A couple questions regarding the Auto tranny: 1. The atf fluid is a bit harder to check than other fluids (I presume because of the angle of the dip stick and lower viscosity fluid?). I followed the routine for a hot fluid check. The dipstick had a solid line of fluid well below the 'low' mark on the hot side of the stick. There was a thin barely noticeable line a good way up the stick though. I don't think this 'counts' as being at a full level though. Thoughts? 2. I went to our local Napa (I live in a small rural town with only one auto store) and given that Dextron II has been gone awhile he recommended Max Life (full syn) multi-vehicle ATF for dex/merc, Mercon LV. I bought it and followed the procedure to top the fluid level off. Rechecked the dipstick using the recommended procedure and it seems to be a full 'line' on the dipstick that after drive a mile or so is a solid line of fluid the width of the stick and after half quart is up to the full line with only a small barely noticeable thin line extending past 'full'. I presume this is normal? 3. Is the fluid I used an okay substitute for Dextron II? All results I can find on various forums indicate yes but I know auto transmissions can be a finicky bunch. 4. As I mentioned I do most of my driving on the highway at cruising speed and make a couple 8 mile round trip runs to town for groceries or to take the dog hiking. It does not get heavy use. Exceptions are I occasionally take it off road for photo shoots where clearance allows. I'm keen to keep the underside washed afterwards but for this reason I feel I should probably change the atf fluid a bit more often than every 30k as those 50-100 mile stints do put a heavier strain on the transmission. Apologies for the long first post. I just want to make this ole girl last as long as possible. Interior is nearly perfect and the car really does drive nice. Emissions passed with flying colors, well below the CO & CA state limits. I live in CO for three seasons and CA in the winter months so the car does not see true winter temps. Any other advice or recommendations are appreciated. ~Nick -
Hey everyone. Ok, so I get off work one day, and figured I should stop and get engine oil and filter before I head home to do my standard maintinence on my 1995 legacy L. While I'm stopped in the parking lot, I'm noticing a large amount of smoke coming out of my engine bay. I turn off the vehicle and get out to look underneath. I find a very large amount of ATF leaking onto my cat. I immediately call for a tow truck so I can diagnose the issue at home. I've searched a huge amount of forums regarding the 4eat, leaks, problems, and so forth. I can't find much. Other than, by where the fluid is draining out, it's most likely my rear driveshaft seal. I was just wondering if anyone else has had this type of experience, or knows if it's even worth fixing. Thank you! -
I have a 2008 Subaru legacy limited 2.5L AT. I'm planning on draining the transmission fluid and adding new stuff http://www.amazon.com/SUBARU-AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISSION-FLUID-BOTTLE/dp/B00FA2AD5U/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1416421234&sr=1-1&keywords=subaru+atf What I can't figure out is how much Fluid I would need to buy in order to satisfy the tank. I can't find in the manual how much the capacity is or online at the current moment, it only tells me how to check the levels and what brads to buy, maybe I keep skipping over it, if so I apologize for wasting time with said question. I was wondering if anyone could tell me? Greatly Appreciated -
Automatic Transmissions' With shared or independent Differential Lubrication. Very Basically Talking, there are Two types of Lubrication Systems for the Differentials, that comes integrated onto the Automatic Transmission's Case, or "Transaxle" as those combos are known nowadays. ► First Type: The Differential has its Own Lubrication, independent from the Rest of the Transmission's Lubrication System and also uses its own independent Lubricant. ► Second Type: The Differential shares the same Lubrication system and the same Lubricant that is used for the Transmission. Also, very Basically Talking, there are Two types of ATF Additives, which independently from the benefits they could do and their disadvantages; the ATF Additives could be divided in Two Big Groups: ► First Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually "Thins" the ATF (getting Lower Viscosity) and works as detergent. In this group, you can find additives such like "Trans-X", and many more. ► Second Group: Are all of those ATF additives which actually mades the ATF to be "Thicker" or more Dense (Getting Higher Viscosity), and works as an added "Cushion" between moving parts to prevent shearing. In this group, you can find additives such like the "Lucas Transmission Fix" and many more. Why is this very important? Because if you pour an ATF Additive that thins the ATF and works as detergent, onto an Automatic Transmission's Fluid which also lubricates the Differential, and you drive long term like that, there will be a very high Risk of Breaking the Differential Gears due to improper Lubrication. Independently from the advantages that such additives could do to the Transmission; they simply are Not intended for the Differential, period. However, you might pour the same ATF additive onto transmissions which does Not share the ATF for the Differential, in such case there is No Risk for the differential, because it is isolated from the ATF and has its own lubricant. So, in case of Automatic Transmissions that shares the Same ATF for the Differential, you might pour those detergent ATF additives for short term use only, in example to do a chemical cleansing of the internals prior to do a complete ATF drain and then Refill with fresh ATF; but if you really need to Pour an ATF additive for long term use, on this kind of Transmissions that shares the ATF with the Differential, I highly recommend to chose wisely, from the ones that doesn't thin the ATF. ► Important Note: Not all the ATF in the market, has the same additive package nor are suitable for all the automatic transmissions; in fact, if you use the Wrong ATF, the Transmission might get damage, such like premature wear and shearing; Always follow the Manufacturer's recommendation on the Manual. In my case, for my Wife's car which has a version of the 4EAT, I pour Valvoline's High Mileage ATF plus a quart of Lucas Transmission fix additive, and that combo makes the transmission to work smoothly and flawlessly; I do change all the Transmission ATF with said combo, on a yearly basis. Remember, if you find this information useful, let me know by hittin' the "Like" Button. Kind Regards.-
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93 Legacy - New timing belt & water pump, Tune-up, Intake system cleaned, new filters etc. The car runs much better but still seems auto trans is sluggish. No real hard shifting or slipping but lacking umpf. I would like to change the fluid and filter screen & dont want to have a shop do it- prices are high, employee's are inexperienced, parts and performance lack workmanship & quality. I want to Drain the whole system not necessarily flush it, just get out all the old fluid out & replaced. I have searched on "how to do it yourself" & have a general idea of what to do. Take one of the trans cooler lines off to pump out the old fluid that isnt in the pan, Drain & remove pan then clean it out & remove old gasket material/residue, replace filter/screen gasket & trans pan, And refill with ATF. More or less this is the "How to" I found but very simplified. I think pumping/draining out of the cooler line would be done before the pan right? Would new fluid need to be added while pumping out so system doesnt run dry? I'd rather not run a bunch of new fluid in it just to throw it away. I would like to know if anyone has done a flush or drain the whole system at home & what procedure(with details) was used, problems or issues occurred, *lack of a better term* "Tricks"/techniques to use. What brand ATF is most commonly used by members? Any bad experiences with NAPA brand/Or similar ATF? What is a good way to clean trans out before adding new ATF? I was thinking about adding SeaFoam Trans Tune to help clean it out. Anyone used SeaFoam Trans Tune (not regular seafoam) before? Also read that Trans-X has been used & recommended by quite a few subaru owners in their auto's to help or prevent issues. Add SeaFoam Trans Tune drive a few miles, drain & replace with new fluid and Trans-X additive, what do you think? Any & All helpful information or ideas and opinions are appreciated, hope to get replies/responses ASAP, Thanks. -
Sorry no question about cars here, but some related fluids. For a scientific experiment we have to rapidly freeze our samples. Normally we do this by dipping them in liquid nitrogen at approx -200 C. But this is in the lab, with a liquid nitrogen tap. Now we are going to conduct this experiment outside the lab and we can not take the liquid nitrogen. So we thought of an alternative: 1. Mixing ethylene glycol (pure) 2/3 with 1/3 water, and add dry ice, now we should be able to reach -60 C in liquid state. But ethylene glycol is to toxic to work with! 2. Mixing propylene glycol (pure) 2/3 with 1/3 water, same as number 1 but less toxic. However we can not get our hands on it from car parts shops, only from chemical supplier at 99% purity while 85% would be sufficient so it is quite expensive. 3. ATF, but when does it solidifies (or what is the melting point)? Other oils will be to viscous and to dirty to use, ATF I think is not so oily as motor or gearbox oil.
