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Showing results for tags 'Alternator'.
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1985 BRAT. I have decided to upgrade my alternator to a 90amp 1989 Nissan Maxima model. Is there an online source for a v pulley? Is it possible to use the pulley from the original BRAT alternator on the new alternator? LINK to alternator at Advance Auto Parts -
I have a couple questions about my 1992 Subaru loyale I just put a alternator on it yesterday drove it around for like 5 minutes and notices the smell of burning plastic turns out the alternator was really hot along with the wire closest to the strut tower in the box right next to the strut tower I am confused and not sure how to approach this. If anyone has any help please let me know! -
My son's barn find 86 Brat. Has multiple issues we've been working through. Currently were working on the charging system. The alternator is charging at 14v at idle but the charge warning light burn dim. EGR, brake, charge, and stop lamp. These light go out at near 2k RPM. I'm pulling the alternator out now to check the brushes. Any ideas fellas?
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Theres a few questions below. Please feel free to answer any or all of them. Any help is appreciated. I tried to organize the post below I put a lot of the details i know about this car in the intro thread, but some basic info will be included. 95 legacy, 231k, lots of work has been done to maintain the engine and tranny, however i inherited a mess of safety issues. I will bullet my concerns below to keep organized and an easy read. Hopefully this post will keep my spacing inbetween topics. 1)Alternator: just discovered today, but someone had clamped the wires into the terminal connectors with the insulation, this inevitably melted and corroded the wires underneath and caused a short, i jerry rigged it for now, but the terminal bolt is also stripped and will not come off, nor can it be tightened... The alternator is fine otherwise, my question is am i able to replace just the terminal on an alternator? Or am i looking at changing the whole unit :(... Not that its hard, but you gotta hate wasting money because someone sucked at life when installing the current one. 2)Popping noise front passenger wheel area when hitting harder bumps?: I have replaced the rack and pinion, and inner and outer tie rods. The cv axles look fine and have no excessive play or anything. I am between the control arm bushing, which look fine, but not that you can see it, or the ball joint, which looked fine until i caught a specific angle and saw that one side of it is completely bare... The question here is, if it isnt the ball joint, will the control arm bushing become dangerous if failed, it looks like a solid piece with no chance of catastrophic failure unless it becomes unbolted... The driver side ball joint by comparison looks fine and its claimed just that one was repaired within the last yr or 2... With the otherone being at least 40k miles. Maybe older... 3)Steering: The reason why i changed the rack and pinion is because it was shot. Wasnt leaking but there was a lot of free play in the steering, there was alot of free play just pulling on the tie rods themselves, there was definite stiffness in the steering that increased the more it was used throughout a driving session(i.e. lots of turns in short amount of time would cause very notable rise in stiffness). And on hard turns from stop or going slow caused alot of vibration and feedback in the steering... So new one is in and fine, most of the symptoms are gone, but occasionaly i still get that vibrating feedback... Occasionally... And its no where near as severe... My question here is, am i just experiencing some aire in the system and need to rebleed the power steering? Or am i getting a warning sign that the pump is going out? Any other thoughts or suggestions on this question would be appreciated. Thanks for your time... I appreciate any thoughts or advice. -
So last week my stock alternator died. I replaced it with my GM 1 wire alternator 60 amp , which i keep for just this type of circumstance. Since the tension bolt does not match up. I installed it with my Redneck wood shims method of tightness. Then on Monday i was able to get an JY alternator from a 2002 EJ25, $17.50 Below are the wiring diagrams I used. Now with everything on still have 14.1 at battery.
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Okay, so I'm driving home in my 96 legacy and see my speedometer and tachometer drop to zero then when I step on the gas it comes back. Then the radio goes out. So I recognize the symptoms of a dead battery. Get to the top of the driveway and the car dies. I'm pretty sure I know what I'm going to find under the hood because This is the third time in 1.5 years that this has happened. I haven't ever figured out where that wire goes but I'm assuming it goes to the battery because it's connected to the alternator. The wire gets fried like that about every 6 months then I re-attach it and it's fine until it gets hot and fries itself again. I thought maybe it was a bad alternator but the last time I took it out and got it tested and it was fine. I'm thinking there is a deeper problem here though. Some thing is overpowering that wire(obviously) maybe someone here would know what's going on. And why is it so regular. Regular to the point that last week I checked the wire to see if I could tell if it was going bad. I couldn't tell anything so I just kept driving and now it happened again. I don't remember the check engine light going on the other times, maybe I didn't check the codes and maybe it was never on in the first place but this time it is on and so I checked the codes and I'm getting po500: the speed sensor is at fault Po135: the bank 1 O2 sensor 1 oxygen sensor heater circuit Po180: the bank 1 O2 sensor 2 oxygen sensor heater circuit I haven't done any research on what the last two are so I have no idea what that means but I guess it makes sense that this problem has to do with a heater circuit. Any ideas on how to figure out what's up with my subaru?
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Recently changed alternator on my 93 Loyale. Now my temperature gauge, fuel gauge, and air conditioner and heater blower will not work. Any Suggestions?
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alright so, recently I got this 88 GL and it was great for about a week. Since then I have replaced both the alternator and the battery and I'm still getting a charge reading of 11.5v when the car is started. I've cleaned some connections and still the same. I've been getting suggestions to swap out the battery cables and I just wanted to chime in here and see if anyone has any good resources for trouble shooting or has had a similar experience and can point me in the right direction..... Oh also! I'm now on my second NEW alternator in 3 days.....got the first new one tested today and they told me it was bad....literally bought the thing 3 days ago....good thing it was under warranty. Let me know what y'all are thinking.
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1996 Legacy L. After putting my car back together following a vexing electrical problem, I was happily driving the car around for 2 days with no issue. I still had a mess of wiring hanging out under the dash since I wanted to make sure the electrical problems were resolved before reassembling the lower dash panels. I finally secured the lower dash panels and wiring, did a quick restart test and then went to bed. This morning I drove the car for 20 minutes with all lights on, radio, phone charger when I noticed the Check Engine light came on. The car bucked a couple of times, then popped out an ABS light. I recognized this combination - I have seen before on failed alternators. I turned off all unnecessary electrics and tried to stay off the brakes (brake lights) to get the car as close to my work as possible. I noticed the fuel gauge was bottomed out and was puzzled why I could not see a battery light in the midst of this. I drove another 10 minutes in this state of tension knowing I was exclusively on battery power in Bay Area morning commute traffic. I managed to get the car into my work parking lot and was trying to back into my space when the car finally completely died. The additional 55w reverse lights sucked out the last of the battery charge. I ended up pushing the car into my spot for the last 10 feet. Throughout the work day, I replayed what happened the night before and concluded that I had not plugged in the left side of the instrument panel's connector. The battery warning light is on that circuit. Without that light on the charge circuit, the alternator will not charge the battery properly. Fortunately some wise folks on this forum have already discussed this at length....http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/143889-alternator-not-charging-dash-light-was-to-blame-seriously/ ! When I got off work, I quickly opened up the instrument panel and plugged the connector back in *dur*, and got a jump from a co-worker. The car started right up and drove home with no issues other than a Check Engine light that was an artifact of the power failure when the P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor. This was reset with my OBD reader and we are back in business. Public Service Announcement - make sure the battery light works and your connectors are installed properly! -
I have a 1985 wagon and the alternator checks out ok but the system is not getting a charge. Other symptoms include: the vehicle will not idle and the alternator, temp, and oil pressure gauges are not functioning. I purchased the car a couple of days ago and the previous owner stated that the only know issue was the water pump. I pressure washed the engine to clean off the grime before I replaced the water pump so I may have inadvertently caused the problem. The battery terminals were also covered in a heavy coat of corrosive residue. I have replaced the battery and tried two different alternators which are known to be good. Any help with this issue would be greatly appreciated. -
I have a 91 Legacy wagon and I purchased a new battery in March. After purchasing the new battery I drove the car daily for awhile, but about 2 weeks ago I stopped driving it and it was sitting for about 4 or 5 days. After those 4 or 5 days I tried to start it again and it would not start and none of the lights would come on either. I do know that one of the car's back doors will not close properly, and this causes a very small dashboard light to remain lit constantly when the battery is charged. Could it be that this very small light caused the battery to drain over time? I am guessing that doing a jump start will recharge the battery at this point since the battery is brand new. But do you think that small dashboard light is what caused the battery to die in the first place? Do you think it will eventually die again due to this light even if I am able to get it started by jumping it? If so, is there an easy way to disable this dashboard light without having an effect on the vehicle? I had planned to sell the vehicle since I was no longer using it, but this may not be a possibility unless I can get it started by jumping it. Even then, I would hate for the person who purchased it to have the battery die on them for any reason like it did on me. -
I need some help with my car not starting, 2003 Legacy GT 2.5 So on my way to class this morning, my car started right up and took off with no problems. Just as I was about to get to campus, I lost power to the engine and my power steering cut out. I hopped out and pushed it to a side street before trying to start it back up. The radio, dash panel, and headlights still worked fine. I remembered that I had left the dome light on all night and thought that maybe it had drained the battery to the point where it had enough charge for on start, but that doesnt make sense as to why it would just start. I had my room mate pick me up and take me to O'Reilly's so I could get another battery, (When I had my oil changed a couple weeks ago, they said my battery was at the end of its life and I should look into getting a new one) If it didnt fix the problem I still needed a new battery anyways. After we threw the battery in and got everything hooked up, I tried starting it again, and it was the same issue. It would sound as if it were going to turn over like usual for a second, but then it went to a lighter, less guttural starting sound. I had half a tank of gas so its not that. Is it the alternator or would that effect the power to the whole car? I thought it could be the fuel filter needing to be replaced and the engine was just starved of fuel. Any ideas? -
I have a 91 Legacy wagon which constantly has issues with starting. Normally if it has been sitting for a few hours without being driven then it will start up just fine, but if I drive it somewhere and then turn it off and try starting it again shortly afterwards, it will not stay started. The only way I have found to make it stay started when I am having trouble is to press on the accelerator as I am starting it, and then I have to leave my foot on the accelerator for a few minutes to keep the car from turning off again. I recently got a new battery, had the alternator checked (it was said to be fine), new fuel pump, ecm repaired, fuel intake system cleaned and new fuel filter, new air control valve, and plenty of other repairs along with it. Everything is perfectly fine with the car as far as I can tell, so unless there is something else that someone can think of which may be causing the issues I am having, then I have no idea what could be wrong other than it is simply an old car and that alone could be causing problems. I have already put over $1,500 worth of work into this vehicle since the problems started, and I am not ready to try anything else unless it is cheap or easy. Can anyone can suggest anything that I can possibly try to fix the problem which may be cheap or easy to do? Aside from that I will probably unfortunately just have to cut my losses and get rid of the car. The air intake hose was replaced in October, so I doubt if that is the issue even though it sounds like a likely culprit.
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1991 Subaru Legacy was sitting for 2-3 weeks and would not start. I got the battery jumped and it started and I was just going to drive straight to the shop, but when I got to the end of the road the car shut off and would not start again. Also prior to it sitting for 2-3 weeks it would start when I left from my residence, but if I drove it somewhere else and tried to start it again then it would not start. I have the following details: $1,500 worth of work done on it in 2015 including O2 sensor, ECM, fuel pump replacement, and new battery. The battery should still be under warranty. The car has an after market digital CD/cassette player, so I m not sure if that draws more energy than the car can handle. Also until recently one of the doors would not close completely and a little red light would be on constantly to indicate that the door was not closed. I m not sure if this light could have slowly been draining the battery/alternator or if this is even an issue. My question is based on the vehicle starting but not staying started, is this likely a problem with the alternator? Do I need a new one or could the current one be repaired? Cost estimate? I will have to get it towed to the shop because obviously it can t be driven in its current state, but I would just like to have an idea of what may be wrong and what would be the cheapest route since I have already spent so much money on the vehicle.
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So I recently took my car into the shop to have the fenders shaved and new fenders put on so I can fit wider tires. The car came back with the battery indicator light on. SO my best assumption is that a wire was cut during the shaving process. The car runs fine if it has jump leads connected to another car but once I remove the leads after about a minute later (when the juice runs out in the battery) the car shuts off. I assumed this was an alternator problem but after replacing that with a brand new one the issue was still occurring. So I replaced the battery, but the battery indicator light is still on so no/not enough power is getting from the alternator to the battery. Ive contacted the shop that did the work complaining that they must have down something but they are refusing to help. So what I thought about doing (as a temporary solution) was to run a large cable between the alternator and the battery. Is this be just a completely ridiculous idea that's going to short out my system or could this be a temporary solution. If it is a solution, should I put some kind of fuses between them or not? I am fairly uneducated when it comes to the electronics in a car so any help would be much appreciated. Thank you, Keon -
Alternator blew out last night, happened to find another super easy alternator upgrade. This alternator does not require a pulley swap unlike the altima alternator Mine came off of a 1994 pathfinder v6. But I'm fairly certain that any alternator from a Nissan vehicle equipped with a naturally aspirated VG30 (3 liter V6) will fit. Only modification needed is to grind the inside (sides facing each other) of the mounting "ears" on the side with 2 mounts. There's a bolt sleeve type thing that you'll want to grind flat. Then get a small washer and put that in between the bracket and the alt when you bolt it on. Not 100% sure if the non pivot side mount fits onto our Stock bracket, but it appears it's almost the exact same size. (my brat didn't come with that bracket, I use a bolt coming straight up out of the engine to push up the alternator). Wiring should be the same as the altima mod
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So I got a new battery after I had my old one tested at Auto Zone and they said it was bad. New battery is good and worked fine, but after three days I went to start it and I got nothing that time. It can't be the starter cuz that is new too, I had it put in some months back and didn't even run the car that much, plus I had my brother tap it while I tried to start car and still nothing. Anybody got any idea? Could it be the alternator? -
Alright, so after 7 months I have finally got my car running again. I asked a friend of my mom's to give it one more jump the day after Thanksgiving, and this time I let the car run for almost 2 hours to get the battery charged up. So it's not an alternator or battery problem like some here were saying, but now the only problem is that every time I go to turn the key, there is a delay for some seconds before the car actually starts/cranks. Anybody have any idea what that could be? Starter relay? Ignition switch? The starter itself? The starter is new and was put in back in April but may not necessarily mean it's good. Anybody have any idea?
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There has been a very obnoxious whining/whistling coming from my engine. I've checked all the vacuum lines, the air filter and in the process replaced both of my belts. This sound appears to be coming from one of my belts that gets louder upon acceleration. It sounds like the alternator belt, but I'm obviously lost on this one. Loosening/ tightening were attempted as well, but no dice. I've been ignoring my car sounding like a UFO for a few months now and it hasn't gotten any worse...or less annoying. Would this issue have anything to do with a loss in power when accelerating? (that could be a completely different issue.) 87 gl 3-door 5speed
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Problem has been happening since I bought the car. Whenever I go to floor it the rpm's die down a few hundred, for about one whole second, and then shoot to redline. Problem has been happening on hitachi and weber. (this is the reason I swapped). New ignition coil, wires and plugs. Cap and rotor look good, but should I replace those? This is mostly a problem in gear, letting the clutch out without having rpms at like 6k will cause the car to die. Was thinking a fluid change is in order? Maybe seafoam? When the engine is not under load it almost always only dives down, and doesn't die. Also, how are nn a/c cars' alternators attached? Just with the one bolt? I took off my a/c and that's all I ran for a little bit (hour max) but it seems to get loose too quickly and has destroyed my water pump bearing. How are yours held on? Pics are welcome Thanks -CL -
My parts vehicle (1990 Loyale) has the inboard A/C and my daily driver (1989 GL) has the A/C thats by the battery, the old A/C that was on my GL was made by KIKI DIESEL, thats all i knew, well it was almost impossible to find a replacement but apparently some nissan or something fitted mine so there it is now, my question is, if my A/C or alternator are compatible with this other version of the EA82? and why did subaru make 2versions of how the A/C mounted on the engine? if there is a way to mount these into my other engine? it would be nice to have spares. thanks! 1st picture is 1990 Loyale (blue) 2nd picture is 1989 GL (tanish) -
So is there even a predictable life span for alternators? I still have the stock one and my rig has 166,600 miles on it right now. No signs its going out yet. But given the miles on it should I be wary? -
thought i would see what insight you all have on my issue: not sure whats up but sometimes my dash lights will be way dim and one headlight will be way dimmer than the other one when i turn my lights on. its not a fuse they are all good...was told it could be my voltage regulator which is inside the alternator so i just replace the alt. bc it was old anyways but i still have the same issue! any thoughts??
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1996 Nissan Maxima Alternator 125 amp from junkyard in Portland $25 + 7 core. Pulley is from 1965 chevy alternator "externally regulated". Adapter pigtail used to allow for easy swap back should it fail. "Custom Bracket extension" necessary for install.
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Hi there, So I just bought a high mileage 1990 subaru legacy with the 2.2l and auto trans. I went into it knowing there were some issues to resolve, those being primarily leaking valve covers and some throttle body issues. While talking to the seller he told me that the alternator had recently gone bad and that he had replaced it with a junkyard one. He assured me he'd had it tested and it tested out well. I drove the vehicle a few days to figure out some of it's quirks before I dove into the project. After a thorough cleaning of the engine bay I drove about five miles, noticing some serious electrical malfunctions with the gauges and the headlights dimming, and eventually the car died from a lack of electrical power. Obviously, I jumped at the alternator. Pulled it and the battery out. Took the battery to work (I work at a Chevrolet dealership) for a full charge and a diagnostic to make sure that it was not in fact the problem. Battery tested great, so I charged it fully and put it back in the car. Next came the alternator. Again, took it down, got it bench tested and it too tested out fine. So I came home, installed everything again, hit the key and it starts right up. I hopped in to take it for a test drive and made it maybe 100 yards down the road before the whole vehicle just shuts off like someone hit an on/off switch. The only time I've ever had electrical failure to that extent is when the battery cables aren't properly hooked up, so I checked everything out and it's all hooked up fine. Tried to jump it with my Jeep and the motor still wouldn't turn over. So like I said, I'm a newbie to the Subaru world, so I was wondering if there's some engine ground that may have come loose that wasn't readily apparent or if there might be a fuse or relay that would cause these symptoms. It's very clearly all of a sudden not getting power to the starter and I can't figure out why. Any help is appreciated.
