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I have a 2001 Subaru Forester L with auto trans. I started hearing a really loud clunking noise (as the wheels turn) as I was driving near my house. I immediately took it back to my garage. The noise is very brutal, as in something is ready to break and break badly. The motor and everything jerks pretty bad with the noise while the wheels are rotating. First inspection, it had a really bad busted inner CV joint on the passenger side front, which I noticed had lots of play. Replaced with a new axle, but the problem is still there, no change at all. It really sounds like the noise is coming from inside the transmission, like the front differential is ready to go??? It only makes the noise when running in gear while driving or with all wheels lifted off the ground. It doesn't seem to make the noise / jerk when turning the wheels by hand. I took a rather large video (over 150MB) so I'll provide a link to the video below, any help would greatly be appreciated. https://sendvid.com/om7qyxz4 -
I was getting ready for a road trip last month and about 45 minutes after I left our caravan stopped for a photo opp. When we got back on the road I noticed what I thought might be rod knock, but it would only make noise under load, and was related to wheel speed. I did some research, checked my wheel bearings and axles, and they checked out fine (although the DOJs for the front diff were loose, I could wiggle them by hand). So I jacked up the front of the car, put the fuse in the FWD slot and put the transmission in gear. The ratcheting sound doesn't seem to be coming from the bellhousing or front diff, but sounds like it's coming from the bowels of the transmission, above the oil pan. Is my transmission trash? Is this a common failure? The Forester has almost 250k miles on it. If the trans *IS* toast, what's the preferred method of finding a healthy replacement? @GeneralDisorder @idosubaru -
Background: Struts are all newish, brakes recently serviced, new inner/outer tie rods, new ball joints, new FCAR bushings, wheels rebalanced, recent alignment. Symptoms: Faint clunking noise at low speeds while accelerating. Shaking at 60 mph, felt like unbalanced wheel, except we just had them rebalanced. Back story: I've been chasing an issue with the passenger's front wheel on our 1999 Forester for a few months now. The car is closing in on 200k miles and I had just finished replacing the ball joints and tie rod ends on the car when I noticed the passenger's side front control arm rear bushing was pretty badly torn. I replaced that bushing, got an alignment, then my wife tells me that the car is shaking on the highway. OK, wheels must be out of balance, so we get them rebalanced. No change. I do the wheel shake test and I felt some play, so let's take a look at the wheel bearing. Wheel and brakes removed, I can feel some clunking as I turn the hub. The driver's side feels smooth when rotated, but there is obviously something wrong with the passenger's side. I get the passenger's side spindle assembly on the bench expecting to find some grumbling and play, but it feels pretty smooth in rotation, with no axial or radial play. So I grab the halfshaft and rotate it. The clunking is still present, but it doesn't feel like it's coming from the CV or DOJ. I supposed it could be either of those parts, but I get the feeling that the passenger's side differential carrier bearing is going south. Question: I've read a lot about Subaru transmissions over the years and that if not reassembled properly with the correct backlash and bearing preload, they will fail again in pretty short order. As I see it, we've got a few options on how to proceed: 1) Rebuild the original transmission - Has to go to a shop and could get expensive with labor and, "while we're in there" incidentals, rebuild could re-fail 2) Replace original transmission with a good used one - I can do this, no problem, but I worry about getting a bad used transmission 3) Sell the car and find the wife a new vehicle - Since our Forester is a the bottom of it's depreciation curve right now, does it really make sense to sink $600-3,000 into a vehicle that's only worth $4,000 tops? Looking for opinions, experiences, etc. If you've got a nice, used transmission, I'm all ears too!
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picked up a great '87 GL wagon with only about 30k miles on it last winter. engine was pretty clean, no real fluid leaks, was working great till a couple months ago. when i started her up cold, and just pulled away from the curb, she wouldn't shift into 2nd gear unless i let her warm up a little, and run through the gears a couple times while still parked. after that, she'd shift fine and the problem wouldn't happen again till she's parked and cold. this car's body is in pretty good shape, has manual locks and windows and runs great otherwise, sans some front end alignment that needs to be adjusted and i hope to drive her into the next century so really looking at getting to the bottom of this. seems like the trans fluid isn't circulating until it's warmer and thinner, possibly? gonna drain it and put in a new filter and new fluid, WHAT TYPE AND HOW MUCH, EXACTLY, do you use? maybe as treatment fluid of some kind can be added w/ the new fluid? heard a few different answers and suggestions, but can always count on the USMB for delivering the best advice. thanks, Glen.
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Hello. I bought a '97 legacy L automatic car. Not knowing that aperently the manual cars are lacking the EGR system. So needless to say I have a CEL I need to make the auto ecu communicate with the manual motor. How can I get the car to work without EGR? First pic is my car second I found online of what it should look like
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Can I fit a 2010 legacy automatic transmission on a 2002 Forester. What would be the differences. -
93 Legacy - New timing belt & water pump, Tune-up, Intake system cleaned, new filters etc. The car runs much better but still seems auto trans is sluggish. No real hard shifting or slipping but lacking umpf. I would like to change the fluid and filter screen & dont want to have a shop do it- prices are high, employee's are inexperienced, parts and performance lack workmanship & quality. I want to Drain the whole system not necessarily flush it, just get out all the old fluid out & replaced. I have searched on "how to do it yourself" & have a general idea of what to do. Take one of the trans cooler lines off to pump out the old fluid that isnt in the pan, Drain & remove pan then clean it out & remove old gasket material/residue, replace filter/screen gasket & trans pan, And refill with ATF. More or less this is the "How to" I found but very simplified. I think pumping/draining out of the cooler line would be done before the pan right? Would new fluid need to be added while pumping out so system doesnt run dry? I'd rather not run a bunch of new fluid in it just to throw it away. I would like to know if anyone has done a flush or drain the whole system at home & what procedure(with details) was used, problems or issues occurred, *lack of a better term* "Tricks"/techniques to use. What brand ATF is most commonly used by members? Any bad experiences with NAPA brand/Or similar ATF? What is a good way to clean trans out before adding new ATF? I was thinking about adding SeaFoam Trans Tune to help clean it out. Anyone used SeaFoam Trans Tune (not regular seafoam) before? Also read that Trans-X has been used & recommended by quite a few subaru owners in their auto's to help or prevent issues. Add SeaFoam Trans Tune drive a few miles, drain & replace with new fluid and Trans-X additive, what do you think? Any & All helpful information or ideas and opinions are appreciated, hope to get replies/responses ASAP, Thanks. -
Hello, I have a 2002 legacy outback with the 2.5 and a auto tranny. Motor is knocking bad and has been repaired before so looking to replace. Found a 2001 outback in town that I can get cheap as a donor. However, it has a standard behind it and not sure on dohc or sohc. Question is, will in bolt in being out of a standard and how do I know if it will work with my computer etc. Thanks
