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This is where my build currently sits, figured I'd share it. It's a 1967 Beetle dropped on a 1998 Subaru Impreza NA 2.2 chassis. I had the shorten the pan about 5 inches and the suspension is a bit wide in the rear. There were a handful of routes I could have take th avoid that like cutting the body in half or lowering the shock towers and putting shorter shocks in, but I want the beetle to have as many off the shelf parts as possible so if something breaks I can easily find it. The front end is not staying like that, I'm going with a full fiberglass front but I'm not going to touch all that until I have the back sorted. The build is also getting uploaded on youtube if you want to follow along:

I thought it time to share my full L series build - I had a thread in the welcome forum, but since writing this out recently I thought it a good time to move over here. Some of you will already know this vehicle... This is the short version I purchased Ruby Scoo from Yackandandah, VIC, Australia (google it!) in 2004 or 2005 for $500. What we didn't know was that the engine was toast - over heated to the point that one cylinder was cracked about halfway down. After some research I found that the EA82 engine came in EFI format, so went with one of these and had a steep learning curve into the operations of EFI systems. Pick a part became my best friend here! Problem was I lived over 1 hour away. After a year in the shed she was ready for rego. This is me learning some 4wd'n with a mate near Kangaroo Flat, Bendigo: From here I had a few mods done - welded rear diff. This was a good and bad mod as it gave the vehicle awesome point and shoot abilities but with the lack of lift I managed some damage to the underside of the body, I inverted my floor pans and didn't realise this for some time. In 2007 I roadtripped to WA with my brother with a "fresh" 9 month old rebuild that was going really well: SA/WA boarder: Perth: Hit a new milestone while I was there: And we had some fun too: On the way home we (read: my brother!) blew the side out of the plastic radiator end tank on a hot day drive home. We were stuck in Tintanara and were trucked home the next day. After sorting a temporary radiator it turned out that the engine was severely cooked. For 18 months I put up with a jerry-rigged carb engine over the MPFI wiring. It got me around while I sorted all the bits for my EJ22 conversion - again pick a part played a huge role in this conversion - this time I got all the bits I needed the before getting into the conversion. Cutting down the wiring was another steep learning curve and in hindsight quite easy to do, just need to know what you actually need and go from there. I didn't do the HG's on the EJ as I bench tested the engine and was happy with how it operated. When pulled from the yard it had 127xxxkms on the clock. Turned out the clutch was completely fried. All oil seals were replaced, cam belt replaced and I should have replaced the water pump - did it about a week after the conversion hit the road. Easiest way to do the Engine and gearbox - out from under: I cased an L series gearbox in a set of EJ front cases to avoid an adaptor plate and an EA clutch. This conversion is all EJ clutch and bolts straight up without issues: The initial test was a bit of fun in the paddock - I should've put the bonnet on though, it wasn't fun to clean! All fits in like it should be there. The L series should've come with the EJ from the factory, it's a great combination! Out at Robe, SA: After a chance purchase of a lifted L series, in one weekend the swap was done and Ruby Scoo grew to this: More fun, Otways, VIC: A few years down the track and a lot of searching I managed to track down a set of the infamous Scorpion 14 inch rims, these ones with the awesome general all rounder Wild Conqueror Super Trippers (can't get them anymore ): Robe, SA: Wyperfeld NP, VIC: Lerderderg SF, VIC: After two seasons at Mt Hotham and a 4wd'n trip with a "rally section" on the Dinner Plain Track south of the township I got Ruby Scoo airborne unintentionally. Not realising for some time but I did some extensive damage to the suspension mount on the LHS. Not ready to part with her I stripped her out and went to work between other things: While everything was reinstalled I added power windows, mirrors and central locking. That took a pot load more time than I anticipated and blew out the build time. I would say this took me 6 months over the summer period to sort out and get back on the road. Return to the road: Getting back into the thick of it: Mt Cole: Getting out in the High Country with the Subaru Club of Qld (offroad club, can't remember their official title) - most of these guys are online mates from ausubi: Basalt Knob South Tk before it was switchbacked: Back at Mt Hotham for another visit (Love this place!) New "trick" gearbox - L series AWD locking centre diff, front OBX (cheap!) LSD, 1.59:1 low range, low range oil feeders and 4.111:1 diff ratio (old box 3.7:1 stock ratio): Diff locking mechanism: This was an awesome mod - the diff ratio change has transformed the drive for the better. The ratio matches the tyre size the same as the foresters run so it's a tried and tested setup, just not really done in an L series in this fashion on a regular basis. I added a snorkel for added confidence during water crossings: This was 2013. For the christmas period we were planning another road trip to WA to catch up with some mates I made over there on the cruise in 2007. Unfortunately after finally getting my AC sorted the Head Gaskets let go. Not a bad run so I shouldn't complain - just the timing over the silly season slowed down the new parts arriving in a timely manner. But she's sorted again and running very well. First time I've had an EJ stripped down like this: Where I think the HGs let go, wasn't major but enough to run hot on a warm day. No damage resulted, money saved there Back together sporting a new radiator conversion (N14 pulsar) and new thermo fans - a good setup so far: Over Easter 2014 we ventured into new territory out at Walhalla in the foothills of the Vic Alps: First real good use of snorkel - Fulton's Creek Tk, Walhalla: Messing around, Fulton's Creek: Trig Track - 12 switchbacks! Loved this area and seriously cannot wait to get back out there! Last trip most recently was to McKillop's Bridge (very speccie!) and the general Snowy River NP, VIC: ^ Pics do not do this bridge justice, it's very high, very long and has been flooded over several times! I was with a "different" cohort for this trip with some mates in larger, "real" 4wds: Ruby Scoo held her own: Until I managed to blow 2nd gear coming off throttle on a down shift from third. Nothing harsh about it. From here it was a tow job, not fun! Once back on a decent track - logging truck track - we decided to see if I could manage third, using low range as another gear. This was done to avoid time delays, rocks flicking up and damaging the front of my vehicle and my newish windscreen. It was noisy in the box but it kept going, at the time I was kind of past the point of caring. After stopping for the others to catch up (I was rally style, they weren't!) we continued but I think it was too much, once the oil settled in the gearbox bits had moved. At walking pace I ended up locking up all four wheels. We were trailered from there, trailer came from Orbost. Then another type of towing occurred a week later: ^ These guys were great, they let me park up for a week in their yard very cheaply! Near M&D's, not quite "home" though: The gearbox came out at M&D's before I took the car home as I was itching to get it started. Once the box was stripped we found this damage: I've since sourced an SG forester gearbox for it's stronger internals as Subaru did a big overhaul on the 1st and 2nd gearsets in these boxes along with a few other things. My bench looks like this as I work through the little hurdles that are thrown my way: I've had to modify a few things along the way, the low range synchro hub being one of them: Latest modification hurdle is the woodruff key for the 5th gear as I want to use the 0.87 ratio I've got in the shed, not the SG's 0.78 as that's what I used to have and I wasn't too keen on it at cruise: That's where I'm at. Using Redback (Brumby - more to come on this addition to the family!) as the daily which is what I got her for, but I can't wait to have Ruby Scoo back on the road and 4wd'n again. I'm also working on some surface rust I've found since removing the gearbox, this is a slow process itself and work/family/social life is getting in the way too. Weekends are not at home at the moment I hope you've enjoyed reading and viewing the pics. While writing this and looking at the large number of pics I've got I've surprised myself just how many places I've been with Ruby Scoo. Many more pics if you want to view! She's currently knocking on 500k kms... I've had many great times out bush in this vehicle and I'm hoping there will be a number of years of more good times to come! Just have to get it back together and out of the shed!!! Regards Bennie

Last month, I had an independent shop replace my 2003 Outback Wagon's front axle and CV joints to unsuccessfully fix a thunk, thunk sound that occurs when the car is warmed up and at slow speed the wheels turned a sharp right or left. Does anyone know if this might be the AWD Duty C Solenoid or ?

Hello all: Looking at a 1995 Subaru AWD on craigslist that needs some love. Super cheap since it needs a head gasket. I own a tow dolly (how I brought home current 1995 FWD). I know I can't tow an AWD on a tow dolly, but I just saw a thread on another website that said the following.... on the older stuff (90's) there's a capped fuseholder in a harness along the firewall on the passenger side of the vehicle. The cap on the fuseholder is labeled FWD. (black holder, white letters, from what I recall) Open the cap, and pop in a fuse, and you're in front wheel drive mode. I don't know what rating of fuse you need, though. Is this true on the 1995? Could I then drag it home on a dolly? Thanks as always for the help. Tom

Okay folks, I wanted to get peoples opinion on a unique project I've been planning. I have a 92 subaru legacy wagon AWD with only 100k on the engine. No issues other than a messed up body from my brother and I doing dumb stuff. We're both mountain bikers and want a shuttle vehicle that can hold as many people and bikes as possible. (A shuttle vehicle is driven up and down a beat up road, bringing riders from the bottom of the trail to the top, loaded down with expensive bikes and people). Here's what we're thinking: Lift the car 5-8 inches for increased clearance, mount a hitch rack on the rear for a heavy duty bike rack, install rear-facing seats (a bench maybe?) in the back of the car by taking off the back door and cutting out the top rear section for head-clearance, and put bigger wheels on it with off-road tires. We also want to put on new suspension, something that can handle big potholes and a ridiculous amount of weight loaded at the back of the car (6-tray bike rack with DH bikes hanging off it). We want to be able to fit 8 people with their bikes. Now if you can tell from this post, I don't know a damn thing about cars. I'm a bike mechanic but that's a far cry from autos. So my question to you smarter folks is, what would you do to make all this happen, and how feasible is it for someone like myself to pull it off? Keep in mind, I don't care if the car drives on the highway and city like garbage. It's gonna look offensive, and I'll install speakers to blast Slayer inside and out. Maybe take the muffler off just because, and add a huge "Pop country sucks" sticker on the back. That kinda car. We want it too look as punk rock as possible. Thanks for the help, and have fun helping me ruin a perfectly good vehicle.

1991 Subary Legacy - I used to ski and thought the Legacy AWD would be a real boon to driving up. It acted odd > When going up hill under power (freeway or near freeway speed) the front wheels would lose traction, spin way up (verified by the tach), and SUDDENLY the AWD would kick in. Traction would be good, then just as suddenly the AWD would dis-engage and the process would repeat itself. I thought it was poor tires, never having had AWD before. I was not sure HOW AWD should act. My previous ride was a 4WD Toyota Tercel that you engaged with a lever. Personally I thought it was great and worked quite well but was obviously different. Quit skiing so the car seldom gets in snow anymore, but occasionally in our driveway on a slope one tire will end up on wet grass. When loaded (I scuba dive now so the load is not trivial), when trying to take off it will spin > then suddenly engage. Engagement is not smooth, more like revving up the car a middling amount and putting the automatic transmission in gear. Now I have GOOD tires and fairly new all around. Recently I took it in for it's first CV joint replacement (160K). The shop (Subaru only) indicated the transmission had a problem with the rear not engaging correctly. Well, how about that. They also said that otherwise it was fine and probably not worth the trouble of tranny repair. I agreed since the AWD is about 95+% not necessary. If I didn't know there was a problem, there is almost nothing other than this odd and occasional behavior to indicate it. Then talking with a dive buddy that runs a Transmission shop indicted it could be electrical with the throttle sensor providing input to gradually engage the AWD. I did some searching and find there appears to be a bunch of such sensors. Anyone know where to start on this issue and what to check and where? I don't have anything to check computer codes nor do I have any CEL issues. Note-While researching I found out about the FWD fuse. I JUST put it in and will be taking it on a 100 mile test trip this afternoon. A trip around the block indicated normal driving behavior and a new FWD red icon on the dash. Appreciate any help. Fritz

So I dropped the clutch in 1st at about 5k rpms in some loose gravel to try to drift, the car bogged out hard but continued to run. Then the CEL came on and it idled high around 1200 rpm instead of the usual 5-600 rpms. Then after finding out auto zone couldn't run my codes I tried to drive home. After about 15 minutes The car bogged out under light throttle at a stop light trying to move in 1st. Then it wouldn't start after that. Plugged the black CEL memory cables in and turned the key to ON. now it's throwing codes 16, 17, 22, 23, 24, 35, 42, and 49 when the CEL was never on before. The car won't start at all just cranks and cranks until the battery dies. All stock ej22t awd 5 speed manual

Hi there, My Subaru Lancaster (same as Outback) has just died, I can't get it to go further than a couple of kms and don't want to try as it has a few engine lights coming on and revs keep dropping etc. My main question here is how can I tow it? I know the recommendation is to put it on a flatbed but that will cost a lot, I have also found a video showing me how to insert a fuse to change it to 2 wheel drive. If I do this can I tow it with all wheels on the ground? The distance to the mechanic is about 15km. Cheers

I just purchased my very first subaru less than a week ago. It's an 85 gl hatchback 4wd with the ea81 and 4 speed mt. I bought this car because my volkswagen is far to low for a Minnesota winter and I love Japanese cars and subarusee alike, and had never seen a subaru like this since that day when I opened up craigslist. Long story short I fell in love with it when I went and test drove it and I knew with the price tag of 1400 it was either buy it was sure to be someone else's. Anyways, Next summer I was hoping to make her a little less stock. I've been reading a lot on the engine and have a pretty good idea on what I want to do there. But I've been having some trouble finding almost anything on the hatchbacks suspension. I've heard of other people using miata coil sleeves in there old subi's but my shocks look like they mount up differently it being a torsion system in the rear and all. I guess my question is, are there any aftermarket, upgraded, or performance alternatives to my stock suspensionumber? Also any information on the trans. and drive train such as what commonly goes wrong and how they handle extra power would be much appreciated.

I just purchased my very first subaru less than a week ago. It's an 85 gl hatchback 4wd with the ea81 and 4 speed mt. I bought this car because my volkswagen is far to low for a Minnesota winter and I love Japanese cars and subarusee alike, and had never seen a subaru like this since that day when I opened up craigslist. Long story short I fell in love with it when I went and test drove it and I knew with the price tag of 1400 it was either buy it was sure to be someone else's. Anyways, Next summer I was hoping to make her a little less stock. I've been reading a lot on the engine and have a pretty good idea on what I want to do there. But I've been having some trouble finding almost anything on the hatchbacks suspension. I've heard of other people using miata coil sleeves in there old subi's but my shocks look like they mount up differently it being a torsion system in the rear and all. I guess my question is, are there any aftermarket, upgraded, or performance alternatives to my stock suspensionumber? Also any information on the trans. and drive train such as what commonly goes wrong and how they handle extra power would be much appreciated.

Had a flat yesterday, tires are pretty new <10Kmiles on them, very little thread wear. thinking on replacing only that one. tirerack says the full thread depth spec is 10/32", I measure 9/32" with my caliper. Searched the owner manual and found no mention that it may damage AWD? IIRC for my previous 02' and 2010' Legacy there used to be some acceptable tolerance on the tire diameter difference, but see nothing here?. Is the difference in tire diameter (circumference) no longer an issue with the new AWD drive for this MY? -Michael

Looking for a wiring diagram for 94 impreza awd for my hopefully soon ej18 swap. Can only find the RHD fsm online. Anyone know where I can find one?

I recently purchased a new twentysixteen Outback AWD, I head into the mountains regularly and have always had tire chains with me for security. I have been told that damage can occur if tire chains are used on a AWD Subaru but have not found any cautionary statements on this forum. I put new Blizzak snow tires on so I am not anticipating having any issues but I have personally witnessed a 36" dump while I was skiing and was glad I had chains to get my vehicle out of the parking lot and back to the mountain condo - the plows just simply cannot keep up with this type of snow event. Question 1). Will damage occur to the transmission or brakes or anything else with limited use of proper fitting tire chains? 2). My instinct say's to put the chains on the rear two tires, is this correct? 3). If the answer to question 1 is a resounding YES, then another idea I have if I get stuck is to simply place the tire chains laid out in front of the rear, or front, tires so that I can drive up on them to gain traction and up and out of whatever I am stuck in without actually placing them around the tires, (This however would create more traction on some wheels than others which may lend to transmission issues).

Hey guys, So my new (to me) 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback with the 4EAT on startup blinks the AT OIL TEMP error code 16 times. I'm 95% sure it's a problem with the Duty C Solonoid. I both lifted the car off the ground and went offroading (before I knew of the problem) and the rear wheels and drivetrain never turn, which also makes me believe this is a problem with the Dudy C Solonoid. However, before I start looking into replacing the Dudt C, I want to see if anything else could be causing this problem. Where is the wiring for the transmission or more specifically the Duty C solodnoid? I'm thinking it could just be broken somewhere. I've looked online and from page to page of my repair manual but i cant find anything about transmission wiring. Thanks guys, Matt

I can't afford to get ripped off by a "dealership" or mechanic so I came to see if I can be a little more informed on whats going on to my 1996 legacy outback. (I love these cars, they are reliable and durable) Thanks so much in advance, and please correct me if I am wrong. So I have been on a road trip for a month or more and I am assuming due to regular mountain and heavy load usage (northern California sharp turning roads) I am now hearing clunking noises every time I steer left coming from the driver side front left tire area usually happens when going 45-65 mph, sometimes when going slower. I've also noticed its happening when I am decelerating or hitting the brakes. When it first hit me I was on the highway going 65 mph and my steering wheel started jerking like never before. I pulled over next town and did some internet research. I came up with a list of possible things it could be: Bad tire alignment steering rack axle ball joints cv shaft cv axle cv joints inner/outer tie rods wheel bearing lower ball joints​ ​I then went under the car and took some pictures, I am not too car savy but enough to do the work myself if it isn't re-building a motor. I need help figuring out what's causing the noise so I don't get ripped off if I have to go to the mechanic. From other forums and posts I have read it seems to be something I definitely need to take care of as soon as possible. The torn boot is in the front left driver side. I have noticed atf fluid leaks and sits in a puddle sometimes (can't be good?) Another angle Torn Steering rack & pinion boot or inner tie rod boot I believe? Another angle of the torn boot This is again the same torn boot, except this time in the photo the steering wheel is turned to the left as far as it can go (this is the way when it makes the clunking noise) It seems to be the Rack and pinion teeth that is being exposed? (This is where I get confused, is this the steering rack and pinion boot or is it the inner or outer tie rod boot? please help) How bad does it look? Again, another angle with the steering wheel turned to the left as far as it can go. CV Axle boot (closest to the wheel) I believe, with the steering wheel turned to the left. Does it look bad? Again, another angle of the CV Axle boot (closest to the wheel) same position. So, what I am thinking it has got to be either a bad CV axle or CV joint? Or a bad inner/outer tie rod and boot. Or a torn Steering Rack & Pinion boot with a bad overall steering rack (Although I hear its rare). I am low on funds and really need to just get down to the nitty gritty of the problem and fix it. What must be done? I need your advice, tips and help. Thank you!

Hello. thanks for stopping by. First I have spent a good hour searching and digging before I posted this thread."pulse" and other terms I could think of brought up a lot of fuel system stuff but not what I feel is going, IE please hold your tongue for " do your own research" type replies. We are a community after all :0D The real thread starts here: 1998 Subaru Legacy Wagon 2.5 AWD automatic trans. I experience a pulse, " whoosh, whoosh whoosh" sound and feeling that picks up and slows down as the vehicle's speed does ( not engine speed, but vehicle speed) It felt to me like it was coming from the front. Things I have done / checked: 1. New tires and balanced ( needed them anyways did not fix issue) 2. checked boots at wheels , Front + back, No rips I could see 3. Checked boots at trans ( front axles ) no visible rips Unrelated recent maintenance since : oil chance fuel filter replaced Air filter service ( K & N type) Any thoughts/ Questions/ links / other threads related would be greatly appreciated

Hello all. I have an interesting issue. 97 Legacy outback wagon Automatic shuddering while pulling of the line in first gear. Feels like a bad trans mount in an old RWD car. Problem goes away with the FWD fuse in. There is also a slight shake at 60 in AWD but it is also gone in FWD. Unfortunately I did not drive it prior to pulling the motor for head gasket replacement except to drive it onto a Uhaul transporter for the 70 mile ride home where my daughter broke down. As I said, runs like a scalded dog in FWD but shudders in AWD in a straight line or turning unless on a gravel road. Shudder goes away then also but cant get up to 60 to check a tire shake. (I am not that nuts). One more thing. When trying to get a rounded nut off on the bottom left bellhousing the axle slid out some with the stub shaft. As this is my only Auto roo I do not know if this is supposed to happen. I did end up pulling the left axle to gain access to the rounded nut. Everything went back together in their original orientation. Any help or ideas would be helpful. I do have the option of bidding on a couple wrecked roos for parts if necessary.

I want to see Ford and Subaru enter into a 50/50 joint venture to develop and bring to market a vehicle of the following classes and specifications: Ford Mid-Size Pick Up, Full-Time Subaru Power Distribution AWD Sold as Ford with a Ford Engine and a Subaru with a Subaru Engine, both in diesel and hybrid variants, as well as fuel-cell and full electric in a sub-partnership with Tesla to work interchangeably with his battery stations. Not quite the same as Ford and Mazda, but that is another great partnership to pursue if Subaru is not interested. If not then Hyundai, or Honda, or even Toyota in an ingenious plan to profit from the 2 best-selling mid-size pickups... if you see where I am going with this. Ford Ultimate 5-star Safety NHTSA & IIHS, small-overlap and roof deflection rollover, Off-road Version would be the Godzilla Ecobeast Ford power plant 3.5V6 & 2.7V4 that came on a truck designed to plow through deep water and maintain constant traction through wet snow and soak up monster pot holes on a suspension designed for Baja racing and 305/75R18 tires and a manual transmission and Subaru Eyesight technology stock. 30mpg Real World Combined MPG in baby beast = target. Subaru Ultimate5-star Safety NHTSA & IIHS, small-overlap and roof deflection rollover, Off-road Version would be the Super-Boxer Turbo I4 & Flat 6 that came on a truck designed to plow through deep water and maintain constant traction through wet snow and soak up monster pot holes on a suspension designed for Rally racing and 305/75R18 tires and a manual transmission and Subaru Eyesight technology stock. 32 mpg Real World Combined MPG in Super Boxer Turbo 4 = target. AWD, All the time, courtesy of Subaru power distribution system in all models. Ford Body on Frame ruggedness & Towing & Technology. Subaru Rally Suspension and Power Distribution and Safety and Reliability. Subaru based Ford built Diesel and Diesel Hybrid and Ford based Subaru built fuel-cell & Tesla battery electric, and other variants to continually challenge the design teams to renew the partnership and inspire ingenuity in simplicity. These to be shared in greater detail in subsequent posts. Blend design elements of the Forester with the South American / Australian Ford Ranger that is current model not available in the United States. Must be available in both Crew Cab Ecobeasts a Manual 7 speed transmission with super-cruise overdrive for peak highway mpg whenever total payload is less than 500 pounds. The Subaru Variant should be available with Subaru boxer engines with turbos and superchargers in the Rally variants. They should compete in a Youtube contest of competitions and reviews in the style of TopGear with me as Special Guest Star & Quality Assurance Director for the Ford Subaru Joint Venture in charge of all testing and racing and special duty versions. The offroad version crew cab especially needs to trounce the TRD Tacoma, Nissan ProX, and Chevy/GMC competitors, while getting better gas mileage. Make a Remove-able Hard and soft top for the bed, flat and cap to cover the bed. The bed with cap should strive to be large enough to transport a Lazy-boy chair safely in the middle of a blizzard. And when opened or folded up and the tailgate lowered a sofa or queen size mattress, box-spring, headboard, and frame. There should be a snow-plow prepped package for both versions, separate and including a plow, torture tested in severe duty to breaking points plowing snow. This and the off-road versions should have the option for a built in winch behind one or both bumpers for self extraction from bottoming out and high middling the truck in snow or mud. Must include Subaru Eyesight technology in all models. This should be built in a union shop in Detroit and Ohio by Ford, and by a union-constructed Subaru Advanced Development built in a new facility in West Chester County, NY along the natural transit of the Hudson River to focus on alternative energy performance and design, and built there in a union shop, and in Japan, and in other locations as prudence dictates. Can we make this happen? How do we go about making this dream come true? I should finally get to use my Masters in Project Management and serve as the Project Director with ultimate decision authority on the joint elements of the project. Imagine how enthusiastic both Ranger fans and Brat fans would be here in the United States! -- Best Regards, Thomas Moore

What car would you buy? Criteria: $10,000 - $12,000 to spend (maximum of 15k if worth it) AWD (west Michigan roads get pretty awful in winter) Cargo space enough for two short and thin people to sleep in 20+ mpg highway Must survive 4-6 years of daily driving + light "two track" offroading Do I need to worry about rumors of reoccurring head gasket leaks? How do I avoid them? What model? What year and what mileage would you aim for? Hello friends, I just registered with your fine internet community to receive some advice. Pretend you're me, complete with a long and pointy red beard. You finally payed off your 2008 Wrangler Rubicon 4-door and want to either trade-in or sell it privately. You know you could get at least 12-15k for it. You could get closer to 20k if you spent 3k in cosmetic and minor mechanical repairs. So you figure you have a comfortable 12k to work with in your quest to find a AWD car with enough cargo space to accommodate a double size memory foam pad for you and your smokin' hot petite wife to "sleep" on when camping. You're just 5' 8" and that's alright because that's above the average male height in Ireland so all of those 6ft+ tall Americans that made you feel so insecure in High School are just a bunch of freaks with disproportionately sized genitalia being most probable. You would know because you do nursing work and have had intimate contact with hundreds of samples. You just remembered to stay on point and that you probably just crossed the line between a lighthearted request for help and an obnoxious attempt to be funny. You decide to make bullet points for the people that chose wisely and skipped your paragraph of nonsense and narcissism. Thanks for reading and thanks in advance to anyone that may reply! Serious and sarcastic replies are welcome. Nothing wrong with a little fun.

I have had some experience repairing various fails of the duty c system. recently I had a solenoid fail mechanically bleeding off atf failing to lock the clutch packs yet the solenoid ohm tested fine and did not throw a tcu code. this all resulted in front wheel drive only this video depicts how I use air pressure to open the valve body and make sure pressure is applied to the clutch disks. https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10154906353260372&l=4129290750931752898 there are several writeups on how to get to the tail section but I do plan on doing my own with pawl instructions! the one I did find in USRM the guy had a loose one he HOPED would not lock up on him.... GEEZ X.x

Hello. I have a 2002 Forester with 175,000 miles. After I drive the car for about 1/2 hour and the car gets hot, I have a problem when I turn the vehicle. No issue when I go straight, but when I turn, like going into a parking space, something starts binding. I can overcome the binding, with more power from the gas pedal. The tires are and have been good. I can not tell if the binding is from the front or rear. The binding will occur either going front or back with the wheels turned. It almost feels like the brakes are being applied, but it is not. Any suggestions, please. The car is a manual transmission

Hey everyone! i am relatively new to the world of Subaru and with that being said i have a 93 legacy L Wagon that im looking to change up a little bit. i have read a lot of forums trying to get an answer for the question i am going to ask and have came up empty handed, so here we go! As an end result i am looking for a Still awd car that can get a little bit drifty with ease. so my thought is in welding the center and rear diff's i can have a full time 3 wheel drive car that i can get slideways in. so this is the topic up for debate. If i weld my center diff will it give me a 50/50 power ratio to front and rear of the car? or depending on the position of the diff can i get more power to the rear vs the front? Any thoughts or comments would be greatly apreciated! lets hash this out , because in theory it should work. -HansChampton

Im gathering everything to put a freshly resealed 90 ej22 in my 84 gl. I currently have a 4spd d/r. At first i was just going to use the adaptar plate but now it seems like the 4spd is giving out. It would be for a street/rally car, so i thought itd be cheaper and easier to swap to awd. I've searched through alot of threads but haven't found any good info on installing the new trans. Anyone have some tips? Thanks

So im going to be swapping the drive system in my brat with one from an early 2000's wrx, and im currious how difficult a certain modification would be. i would like to keep the abiloity to select on the fly 2wd and awd, so it would be a slurr of a 4wd system and an awd system. is this a feasable thing to attempt?

Hello, I just got a 1995 Legacy. I had to take this poor car away from my parents, I just could not see her sit around and be a pile of junk as my parents tend to do with cars with minor problems. I fixed the wheel bearing last night. Now I am working on the transmission. It does not currently go into reverse, It is an automatic transmission. First, anyone else come by this problem. and second, does anyone know a good online dealer, or dealer in general of transmissions, I would like to not spend over 1000 on a transmission for it. Thats if it is not fixable for about the same price.