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Showing results for tags 'BOLT'.
Found 7 results
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WILL WHEELS FROM A 17 FORESTER FIT A 17 LEGACY? THANKS! -
Hey guys, I need some help with my full exhaust setup. I am trying to make it bolt on in 3ish pieces: header, cats, and catback (2 pieces). I'm going bolt on to avoid any welding as I have a limited budget. My current exhaust is rusty and the previous owner replaced the flanged with pipes and added a welded in flexpipe which has failed with a gnarly crack/leak. What I'm buying: Inferno Fabrications single port uel header (2.25") OBX catback (2.25") made for the 1998-2001 Impreza RS. What I am looking to buy/have found: Aftermarket catalytic converter (1 piece) made to fit in 2.5L (1997-2005 Legacys, Foresters, Outbacks, and 2.5L Impreza's). Does anyone know the inlet/outlet diameter size of these catalytic converters or what size donuts or flanges to use? I've been searching on many forums (here,nasioc, rs25, and a few others) but can't seem to find an answer. Any input would be appreciated. -
I've broken the outer most bolt for an EA82 oil pump. This is the bolt closest to the ear of the mickey mouse seal. Whats the likelihood of an oil leak if I finish the re-seal and t-belts? The other 4 bolts are fine and torqued down. I've tried drilling the bolt out because it broke flush to the engine, but I've caught it out of center and I'm losing hope that I'll be able to drill it clean and tap a new thread. If you guys recommend fixing the hole and re-tapping it what kind of drill bits would you recommend? I was doing this job in hopes of ridding the engine of the lifter tick, but I'm worried I've just made the problem worse. Any and all advice appreciated, thanks.
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These bolts are no longer available from Subaru and I was wondering if anyone had any dimensions so I can order them through other channels. Thanks!
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2002 Forester 5MT, 205,000km I am trying to remove my Rear Differential, to fix it (I think that one of the output-shaft taper-roller bearings is worn - I have a rear-end rumble & about 1mm radial & axial play on the output-shaft at the diff). But I am stuck on the first step of the procedure. I cannot get the suspension lateral-links (front & rear) disconnected. I cannot remove the long outer lateral-link bolt (#20540AA000). This has a 19mm hex head, and is about 150mm (6") long. I can remove the 19mm nut, and I can turn the actual bolt with difficulty, using lots of lubricant and a long breaker-bar. But the bolt will not move along its length to remove it. I've tried hammering on the loosened nut, but the bolt won't move. How can I remove this bolt? I'm reluctant to use heat, as this will destroy the rubber bushings. But maybe that doesn't matter, as it could be that a rubber bushing is seized onto the bolt any way. Any advice for me? Thanks. EDITED to add "a rear-end-rumble" -
Friends, I have a '93 Legacy wagon with 230k. In early February I swapped my failing alternator with the '96 reman (see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142320-weird-electrical-pulsing-93-legacy-wagon/ for details). Yesterday, I was driving home from work, and I could tell something was very goofy with the electrical system (started funny, delay/loss of power in acceleration, blinkers sounded weird). When I got home and shut off the engine, it would not restart - won't even turn over at all. This is the exact behavior I had recently when a squirrel chewed through my alternator wire - which I repaired. My assumption, therefore, was that my splice had come loose somehow, or some other wiring issue. The two-wire connector is just fine...reading a little under 12V to the battery and also impedance is 0 to the battery. So that's not it. However, the big two-wire socket connector on the top - weird stuff there. I just put this in a few months ago, and the nut and bolt are super corroded. I removed the nut and found that it had partially fused with the bolt - both are screwed up and I cannot get the nut to tighten down anymore. Appears the bolt may have to be replaced...if that's even possible...I'm going to get a free AAA tow to my mechanic on Monday morning. The big question is: what would cause rapid corrosion and metal fusing on that connector?? Could it be related somehow to using a different alt than spec? A sign of a different electrical problem? Also, could this possibly have anything to do with my latest squirrel problem? (see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146230-93-legacy-code-21-coolant-temperature-sensor/) (I have since added split tubing to EVERY exposed wire under the hood. Sigh.) THANKS!!! -
I need to clean up the threads inside my crankshaft. Made a mistake using a puller; got a small piece of metal jammed in the crankshaft end but fished it out with some epoxy. I want to clean the threads up before putting it back together. I am measuring thread spec using my crankshaft bolt and calipers. By my measurements major thread diameter = 12.8 mm, thread pitch = 1.5 mm (averaged along 15 threads). Should I assume that the proper tap size = M13x1.5? (The reason I come here to verify is because M13 isn't a common size, so I want to make sure I'm right before I order the tap). Thanks.
