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Showing results for tags 'Ball Joint'.
Found 7 results
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2009 Subaru Impreza 2.5i Hatchback. Am I doing this right? I feel like the inner portion of the ball joint is coming out but the outer portion is staying in the knuckle. I have spent half an hour banging on the control arm with a metal rod and sludge hammer and this is how far I've gotten. Reference this picture. Part 1 is separating from part 2 but I think that part 2 is supposed to come out of the knuckle and not just part 1. If I continue banging it will eventually remove the ball joint but keep this outer metal part inside of the knuckle. I'm having a horrible day. The pinch bolt already snapped off and I spent 3 hour welding nuts to remove it. I wanna pull my hair out so badly! Any advice would be appreciated! -
Theres a few questions below. Please feel free to answer any or all of them. Any help is appreciated. I tried to organize the post below I put a lot of the details i know about this car in the intro thread, but some basic info will be included. 95 legacy, 231k, lots of work has been done to maintain the engine and tranny, however i inherited a mess of safety issues. I will bullet my concerns below to keep organized and an easy read. Hopefully this post will keep my spacing inbetween topics. 1)Alternator: just discovered today, but someone had clamped the wires into the terminal connectors with the insulation, this inevitably melted and corroded the wires underneath and caused a short, i jerry rigged it for now, but the terminal bolt is also stripped and will not come off, nor can it be tightened... The alternator is fine otherwise, my question is am i able to replace just the terminal on an alternator? Or am i looking at changing the whole unit :(... Not that its hard, but you gotta hate wasting money because someone sucked at life when installing the current one. 2)Popping noise front passenger wheel area when hitting harder bumps?: I have replaced the rack and pinion, and inner and outer tie rods. The cv axles look fine and have no excessive play or anything. I am between the control arm bushing, which look fine, but not that you can see it, or the ball joint, which looked fine until i caught a specific angle and saw that one side of it is completely bare... The question here is, if it isnt the ball joint, will the control arm bushing become dangerous if failed, it looks like a solid piece with no chance of catastrophic failure unless it becomes unbolted... The driver side ball joint by comparison looks fine and its claimed just that one was repaired within the last yr or 2... With the otherone being at least 40k miles. Maybe older... 3)Steering: The reason why i changed the rack and pinion is because it was shot. Wasnt leaking but there was a lot of free play in the steering, there was alot of free play just pulling on the tie rods themselves, there was definite stiffness in the steering that increased the more it was used throughout a driving session(i.e. lots of turns in short amount of time would cause very notable rise in stiffness). And on hard turns from stop or going slow caused alot of vibration and feedback in the steering... So new one is in and fine, most of the symptoms are gone, but occasionaly i still get that vibrating feedback... Occasionally... And its no where near as severe... My question here is, am i just experiencing some aire in the system and need to rebleed the power steering? Or am i getting a warning sign that the pump is going out? Any other thoughts or suggestions on this question would be appreciated. Thanks for your time... I appreciate any thoughts or advice. -
Went to replace the right ball joint and the bolt moved about an 1/8th of an inche and the head snapped off.... I drilled into the bolt and went to drill the right size extractor into the bolt and the extractor snapped off inside the bolt. At this point I'm pretty ticked off, a simple job that turned into a big PITA. Thinking about just having a garage take it from here, I hate having other people touch my vehicles especially ones that charge out the butt but I've had enough and feels like I'm out of options. The car is due for inspection so it needs done ASAP, anyone local to Centre Hall,PA want to help in removing this? Lol.... Any advice for this situation? The extractor isn't easy to drill into like the bolt. ???? 2000 Outback Legacy. -
Hey all. I'm in the middle of doing the ball joints and CV axles on my 1988 ea82 4wd wagon. Getting them out wasn't hard, and one side went in like a charm (with some hammer persuasion), but the passenger's side will NOT pop into the steering knuckle. I've tried PB blaster, lightly wedging the pinch bolt open with my pickle fork, lithium grease, BFH treatment, and last but not least installing the new joint into the control arm first and wedging the knuckle down onto the ball joint with a breaker bar. Anybody have any tips for getting the new ones in?? for the record I'm using ACDELCO ball joints from Rockauto, they are both identical and seem to be the same in all critical areas as the old ones.
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So today I replaced balljoints in my 2000 forester. The old ones were a pita to get out but with a little heat and some motivation from a 3# sledge they gave in and came out. I was thinking everything was good...cleaned up my mess and started the car to test it out. As soon as i shifted from park to reverse there is a loud humming/grinding noise sounds like its coming from where the axles meet the differential. I did have to do some beating, pushing, pulling and a lot of cussing to not only get the old joints off but I also had a hard time getting the stud part of the bj back into the hole on the a arm. It makes the noise going into any gear and I also noticed the "AT oil temp" is lit up on the dash. Before I saw the light my first thought was while I was in there messing with it maybe i pulled the axle out a little ways and now the splines arent matching up? I didnt think I was putting that much pressure on it plus i never even messed with the pin holding the axle on but Idk. After seeing the at temp light now Im lost because prior to this Ive never seen that light or had and kind of sound or issue. The light came on within 30 sec of the car being started so idk hot it would get hot that quick but idk. Its dark here now so tomorrow my day is going to consist of taking it back apart and trying to diagnose the problem. I did some searching and didnt really come up with anything so I figured Id ask around here and hopefully get a few opinions and possibly a starting point. It just seemed strange to me that I didnt have any problem until I did the ball joints. which shouldnt have affected anything but the...ball joints?? I also forgot to mention that when I try to shift back into park theres a grinding noise like trying to shift a manual without the clutch and it only stops when i turn the key off but when you start the car the noise isnt there until you try to shift out of park. This ******* thing has me baffled! Anyways like always any info or help is greatly appreciated!! -
Parts Needed for 1980 1st Gen BRAT GL I am trying to eliminate a slight shaking at higher speeds and would like to get an alignment done. I found about half of the parts I would like to replace, but I am having trouble finding the inner ball-joint assembly parts. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! (See the attached photo to match the following numbers) What I REALLY need: 4. Lock nuts 5. Boots 6. Snap rings (boot) 7. Ball-joint assemblys 8. Lock washers What I was able to find and already purchased: 1. Dust seals 2. Snap rings 3. Tie rod ends - Outer ball-joints
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Last week, I replaced the CV axles, ball joints, tie rod ends, and struts on my '87 Subaru GL 4WD. For some reason when I apply a lot of (engine) torque when the wheels are turned hard to the left, there's a huge clunk as soon as significant torque is applied. This baffles me, because I've taken it apart to inspect (again) and could find nothing wrong. The CV axles, ball joints, struts, etc., are brand new. The ball joints, strut mounts, hub, axle nuts, brake calipers, sway bar mounts, etc., are tight. I took the wheels off today and re-checked all this stuff. The wheel lug nuts are torqued properly and everything, and I also checked the strut mount screws and the nut that secures the end of the strut into its top mounting plate. The wheel bearings also looked good. They were smooth and tight, and I packed a bunch of grease in there before putting the axles back in. The car makes no weird noises whatsoever when I'm running down the road at 75 mph. It's only when I start a sharp left turn. At this point, I'm standing around scratching my head. Other than the clicking the old axle did (because the outer boot had a rip in it and a bunch of grit got into the CV joint), it didn't make the big CLUNK when I was turning. Anyone have ideas? Thanks!
