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Showing results for tags 'Belt'.
Found 15 results
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Hey there! I’m new to this forum and finally decided to write about a problem I’ve been having for months now. My 2012 Subaru Impreza base has been squeaking ever since I got my engine replaced around December of 2020. It only happens when I accelerate from second gear up. I also replaced the stock air box with a cold air intake, but the noise has been there far before I did this. I also replaced the serpentine belt and it still makes the sound. I’ve tried putting a rag in the exhaust to see if it’s an exhaust leak and the exhaust builds up pressure and spits it back out. As I said before I got the engine and the catalytic converter replaced it had no such issue. Although when the cat was replaced they didn’t check the sensors attached to it and one was bad so I had to go back and have it replaced. Also when the engine was replaced they claimed they filled it with Freon, but my A/C didn’t work so they had to fill it up because it was empty. My ac also isn’t as cold as I think it should be. I include all the details about the A/C because I’ve read that the compressor could be going out. When my engine was replaced I had 180000 miles on my car, not it’s at the higher end of 195k. Also my serpentine belt is correctly in place and all the pullies spin, and the compressor turns off and lets the belt run freely when the A/C is off. If you guys could give me some advice I’d really appreciate it. I’ve been through two mechanics and my dad who turns wrenches and they’re all saying different things, so I need some help from someone who knows a lot about my model Subaru specifically. Any help would be greatly appreciated! -
I recently purchased a high mileage 2008 Subaru Outback (200,000 miles) with an automatic transmission. After driving it more, i started experiencing an occasional miss shift. ( only when shifting up into a higher gear would the RPM's climb and then catch hard.) And It always had a hard shift down into 1st gear (or neutral?) only when I'm coming to a stop. This happens almost every time i come to a stop after the car has warmed up, and less often when its cold. I checked the transmission fluid when i bought it, and it didn't seem bad. Ive since done a partial drain and refill of the transmission pan ( about 3-4 quarts worth ) But that didn't seem to help. I also tried adding some Lucas transmission fix ( very thick additive ) Which didn't seem to help, or hurt. A few weeks ago, my wife was driving the car and the timing belt broke, she was unsure if it was the timing belt breaking, or if the car was in the middle of a miss shift. Until the car died a moment later. I have since had the heads done, and have the engine put back together waiting to be put back in the car. But i am superstitious that the transmission might have caused the timing belt to slip, and that im putting all my money and time at risk by re installing the motor into the car with an iffy transmission. Am i crazy? The theory goes like this... Maybe an old tensioner, and a sudden spike in RPM from the transmission failing to find a higher gear, and then a sudden and violent clunk into said gear. May have cause the belt to slip off the sprocket, and ultimately break? As i was putting it back together i noticed there is no timing belt guide above the main crank. ( the manual says that it may not come equipped, or be necessary.) I think im going to put the motor back in, and test drive it more. hoping to find a solution to the odd shifting characteristics. But wanted to know if anyone had ever even heard of a bad transmission being able to break a timing belt before? IF at least to calm my fears. *Forgot to say that the timing belt did not look worn, or dried out in any way before it broke* -
Hi all, Recently had the timing belt on my DOHC skip some teeth. Was a brand new belt kit including tensioner. Was a Gates-brand. Well, I reset everything and about 500 miles later I believe it has skipped at least a single tooth, so I've parked it. I will purchase a brand new Subaru OEM belt and tensioner for it. My question centers around parts interchangeability. After perusing through opposed forces: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g11/type_28/engine/timing_belt_cover/ I've noticed that the '00-'07 WRX wagon has a 2.5L motor with timing covers that have timing belt guides for the cam sprockets as well as the crank. Any reason that these shouldn't work on the EJ25D? I'd like to add some additional security to the system. It seems to keep jumping off of the cams on the passenger side. Thoughts and advice will be appreciated. Greg -
2010 Forester with 90000 miles. About 3000 miles ago I changed the power steering fluid with the Dexron III. Everything was fine but recently it developed a problem: when the motor is cold the power steering starts binding. To avoid binding I put the transmission in neutral, raise the RPMs a little and the problem goes away. I do not experience any problems with the warm engine. YouTube search shows that I probably have sticking valves in the power steering rack and recommends Seafoam TransTune. Has anybody used it? Will it help? And the main question: did I cause it? I am looking for some help/suggestion, Sam -
Hi All, This is my first post here. I recently did a timing belt on my 1999 Legacy Outback Wagon, with a new water pump. Job went well, all parts bolted up and timing came out fine, no problems running now. However, even after burping the cooling system with a radiator bucket, multiple times, the car still overheats and I don't feel heat. There are no signs of a blown head gasket that I can tell, the car runs fine and doesn't smell or smoke or anything, has full power. What should my next step be? I replaced the thermostat with a genuine Subaru thermostat. My water pump is one of the old style pumps, with the teeth as opposed to the disc. Help!! I'm not sure what to do! -
05 forester xt manual. I got a slight clunk that recurs every couple seconds or so when the a/c is on. Then I noticed about one third of my a/c belt was chewed up and wrapped around the backside of the compressor pulley. I cut the belt off which was about 3-4 years old and the a/c compressor pulley spins nice and smooth with no play but the clutch is very stiff/drags and not smooth at all in either direction. But I also noticed the idler/ tensioner pulley has a bit of play as well. I'm assuming I'll need to replace the idler pulley but what about the compressor?...From what I read the a/c clutch is not a serviceable part. The crank pulley/harmonic balancer has no visible play or separation. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. -
Alright gang, I have another inquiry here. I recently replaced the power steering/alternator belt in my 99 legacy L because I heard some squealing. Then I was noticing that as I am driving in any gear, I can hear another squealing noise. I can hear it even while rolling in neutral, and it stops just before the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Changed the a/c belt just a few days ago and I am still hearing the squeal... It doesn't matter whether or not I'm blasting the system, or a/c. Any thoughts/suggestions are greatly appreciated. -Teddy G -
Hi all, I'm still in the assembly stage of rebuilding my engine (2.5L DOHC), but I've come across a weird issue. The new timing belt kit that came with my reman'd block, I just broke into it the other day to start putting the new sprockets on. The first sprocket one I opened, I bolted it on loosely just to see how it looked and feel the bearing, and to my surprise it wiggles. I'm not joking, this brand new never used sprocket, the bearing wiggles like a worn out bearing, though it's still tight when you spin it like a fresh bearing should be. I don't know about you but I'm getting a red flag about this, does anyone have any ideas on whether or not to use it? Thanks in advance, David -
Hey guys, I just pulled the engine and did the head gaskets on my EJ251 legacy wagon. As I was about to install my new timing belt, I realized that I am entirely unable to get the left side cam sprocket timing marks to line up! The repair manual and multiple internet resources show that the mark should be going pretty much straight up towards a notch in the rear timing cover. My cover happens to be chipped, but I can see where the notch used to be. For some reason, the cam sprocket just won't stay where it *should* be, the tension whips the cam far to either side of it (YES, my crank timing mark is lined up properly, all pistons are recessed, I didn't just destroy my valves). These are the closest places to the timing mark that the cam will rest. Timing hash on cam is indicated with red line. Timing mark on timing cover is indicated with a yellow line. What is going on here?? I have read on multiple articles AND the manual that there should be no tension on cam when it is at proper point, this isn't some weird Audi that I should need special clamps for. Thanks for the help!
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There has been a very obnoxious whining/whistling coming from my engine. I've checked all the vacuum lines, the air filter and in the process replaced both of my belts. This sound appears to be coming from one of my belts that gets louder upon acceleration. It sounds like the alternator belt, but I'm obviously lost on this one. Loosening/ tightening were attempted as well, but no dice. I've been ignoring my car sounding like a UFO for a few months now and it hasn't gotten any worse...or less annoying. Would this issue have anything to do with a loss in power when accelerating? (that could be a completely different issue.) 87 gl 3-door 5speed
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Any recommendations for a long-lasting Timing Belt? In my 2002 Forester EJ251, I replaced the original Subaru factory Timing Belt at 163,590km (101,671miles), as a maintenance precaution. That Subaru belt looked like almost new, with no cracks or other visible deterioration. The next belt was part of a MizumoAuto timing-belt kit (incl. pulleys, idlers, tensioner, water pump). After another 62,633km (38,927miles), I discovered that the belt was badly cracked. There are transverse cracks on the back-side of the belt, opposite to the ‘valleys’ in the toothed side. See the attached photo. That replacement belt only lasted 38% as long as the original Subaru belt, and I have removed it from service. I can buy a replacement timing belt on line for a variety of prices, and from a variety of manufacturers. The most expensive belts are the Subaru OEM (13028AA231), followed by Gates and Mitsuboshi. And there are many others available for a fraction of the price. Which belts are the best buy for the price (I have an interference-engine)? I know that the Subaru OEM belt is good (no visible deterioration at the recommended change-interval), but it is expensive. And the MizumoAuto belt was scarily inadequate, with cracking after a much shorter interval (I have asked MizumoAuto to tell me the manufacturer’s name, but no reply). I have seen lots of online reviews, mostly with comments about how the belt went on easily, or looked nice when new, etc. But I haven’t found any reviews that comment on the longevity of the belt, or otherwise. So I welcome comments/recommendations about what make of timing belt to buy, preferably with first-hand experience on how long the belt actually lasted.
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As part of my timing belt change on my '99 outback 2.5 DOHC (discussed in another posting), I had to remove the tensioner for the belt that drives the A/C compressor. When I put the car back together, I noticed that the two bolts that hold this tensioner to the block did not screw all the way in (short by about .5 cm), leaving the tensioner a bit loose. I know they are the correct bolts since immediately when I removed the tensioner I put the bolts back in their holes on the block. I tried swapping the two bolts for one another but that didn't help. When I put the belt on and put it under tension, it seemed to lock it in. Still, this does not seem correct. Has anyone else had this problem? Are there some washers behind the tensioner that I didn't know about and dropped? -
So my dad's 93 Legacy had been backfiring on startup & idling high. I checked the timing belt marks & it seems to be off by a tooth or more. Also the driver side timing cover is broken where the cam timing mark would line up, bummer. But lined it up on passenger side & driver cam was off, even after cranking it around by hand. Well while I was working it I noticed it was an EJ20 nice surprise, I wondered why there was more room in the engine bay compared to my Legacy EJ22. Anyway is the timing belt, idler's, water pump & damn near everything else the same between the EJ20 & EJ22? Im sure the timing procedure is the same right? So a timing belt kit for a EJ22 of the same year is the same for a EJ20? Gotta fix it this weekend! Also 4EAT in the car is kinda sluggish, what would some members recommend? A complete fluid flush & new filter? Adding a In-Line tranny filter? Specific Additive or supplement? A pinched breather hose? Any opinions for "tuning up" the older 4EAT are appreciated, Thanks USMB & members for helping & saving each one us time & money on repairs & information/ And also getting to know our Subie's even better. One last thing, I'd read of some people lubricating their throw out bearings threw clutch fork window, Is that something anyone has tried/accomplished? Its risky business greasing Throw out bearing once starting to make noise when clutch engaged. I assume only options are replace it or whole clutch kit OR ignore/get used to it but prepare for consequences. My 95 Legacy makes once pedal is released. -
I don't know an incredible lot about these cars, I just did an engine swap yesterday from 1991 Loyale into my 1987 GL. My '87 had almost 300,000 miles, still ran, but, it was time for a fresh motor, so, I put a 120,000 mile motor from my friend's totalled loyale in it. (It was rear ended) It started easily, ran great, accelerated easily, it was a fun little motor. But, I was driving and suddenly the motor just stopped, sputtered out. The engine was warmer than it should have been, so, I thought I might have lost head gaskets, but, no smoke, no coolant spew, and it didn't sound like I grenaded the motor. It just died and refused to start again. It turns over easily, no wierd noise or hesitation, it just won't start. I checked the oil when it died and it didn't look like milkshake (when coolant enters oil). So, I don't think it's headgaskets. I thought maybe I lost a timing belt, but, if I remove my distributor cap the distributor still rotates when I turn the engine over, which indicates timing. I know these cars have two timing belts, so, could I have lost te passenger side belt? I kind of think it would run, but, just run like spoob with half the timing. I don't know though. Anybody have any answers? -
anybody know the part numbers for the ea81t belts? or know the belts sizes? about the only parts i need to put the wagon back together to get it started so help is very apriated. have about 40 belts and i figured what size i would need by putting ones that were close on so i could find out the right one inbetween at the parts store. turns out that didn't work so i need to go back and get a smaller and bigger one or come in with dimensions or parts number.
