Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Body'.
Found 12 results
-
Had a front end collision on my brat a while back and finally getting around to doing something with it. Couldn’t find a radiator support or a shop that would fix her up so using her for a parts car on my wagon and parting out what i don’t need/can use seems to be the best route. The interior is in surprisingly decent shape, most of the plastic hasn’t deteriorated yet. I’ll check this thread regularly or message me about parts and I’ll shoot prices back. In the central California area so keep in mind the shipping and time to remove some of her. Interior is already started but body parts and others might take some time to get
-
The plastic C-Pillar window molding on my ea82 coupe is broken. (Number 37/38 pictured) I have to remove the A-Pillar/Gutter molding to get to it. (35/36) How should I go about removing these? Without snapping them, of course. Thanks for your time. -
The car: 1998 Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS Rally Blue Pearl 240k + miles HG done at 225k Clutch still 80% then Trans noisy in all gears Has a bunch of suspension upgrades. Check my older employer's website for complete mod list and early history (I haven't worked there in 5 years, almost to the day, but they still have my car on their site.) www.mttechsuba.com "RIDES" "LEWIS' RS" Basically, it has upgraded suspension, rear LSD, bigger brakes, stereo, etc. I also have a complete set of matching seats for future repairs. This last summer, I had rear ended another car at about 10-15 MPH, it was going to need upper core support work, maybe a hood, and replace the fender damage from WCSS 8 or 9 (2nd Hood River one) where I ran into the fence in the mud pit. I removed he bumper beam in order to get radiator fans off of the belts. Secured bumper cover to car with out beam and have been driving it since. Three days ago, a chick in a ford focus abruptly changed lanes out of her stopped lane into my open lane in which I was travelling about 25 MPH. My RF corner went into her LF door and fender. Without a bumper, the RF headlight support, fender, hood is smashed in. Her insurance (Geico) says it is a total. So, do I take the money and run? (obviously going to take car back, trade some parts out, stereo, etc) Buy back and fix? or buy back and part out? I am waiting to hear from them tomorrow, Friday 02 Jan 15 If I total it and don't buy back to fix OR buy back and part out, I have a 1994 Legacy turbo wagon that needs some love. I believe the struts will swap, maybe the sway bars and suspension bits, and the brakes for sure. Then I can keep my 16" gold wheels with studs, and my '05 17" GT wheels with Michelin Pilot SS tires, sending the turbo 15" wheels and small brakes away with the RS. Any thoughts on approach here? I have changed everything in my life this last year, this is the last thing to remain of my previous life. (Divorce, moved out of house, quit 21 year Subaru mechanic career for building maintenance / operations career) I love the little car but fear it is not worth it. I don't necessarily have the time to fix it, and I am not a body guy. I know people who are (Russ:)), but don't want to waste their spare time on my love affair with this car. Any interest here for the car itself? The parts therein? Thanks for reading, let me know what you all think! Lewis -
i suppose i shouldn't complain too much about a little ratting form a $700 car, but the tailgate on my 97 Legacy Wagon is driving me batty. at idle in gear, and over rough roads it rattles and buzzes like crazy. does anyone know of a way to adjust the latch or the rubber "bumpstops" in the doorjamb to stabilize the tailgate more when its closed? when i used to work at a volvo dealer, the tailgate bumpstops on the wagons were threaded so they could be made shorter or taller to slightly adjust how the tailgate sat when it was closed, but the bumpstops on my wagon seem to be solid. i should mention that if i really put some rump roast into it and slam the tailgate closed it still rattles a little bit, but not as much. any tips or tricks to cure this annoying problem would be greatly appreciated. thanks -
I have my pickings off a 96' outback for parts and my body on my 1990 legacy LS wagon is a little rough in some spots and just curious if anyone has ever done this or could give me advice or anything will help. List of parts I want to swap off the outback : hood(with scoop) Grill front bumper rear bumper thanks -
I have my pickings off a 96' outback for parts and my body on my 1990 legacy LS wagon is a little rough in some spots and just curious if anyone has ever done this or could give me advice or anything will help. List of parts I want to swap off the outback : hood(with scoop) Grill front bumper rear bumper thanks
-
So i guess this is my pre-build thread to see peoples ideas and any possable tips reguarding the restoration phase of the brat. my brat unfortunatley needs a lot of body work. however i found a very clean 85 GL hatch that i can take just about the whole front end off of. end product will hopefully have a wrx/sti driveline (or maybe something a bit more valuable, but that all depends on if i can find it). the GL will likely recieve the brat's current driveline which would be an upgrade from 2 wheel front to 2/4wheel dual range. the brat literally has all the rust spots you would expect froma neglected brat (though the frame looked good last i checked). any tips on body repair for the rear end (in the bed and the rear sill that almost doesnt exist anymore) and people that might be selling the bed chrome for a 2nd gen as mine is in questionable condition.
-
1985 subaru gl and 1986 subaru brat gl
zmarrott posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
So, i have a 1986 Brat GL that i recieved as a gift from in the family that is in depressingly sad condition. the engine runs, but has a phenominal time starting up, havent seen any problems with the tranny and 4 wheel. recently my mom was driving it and one wheel seized from a bad bearing(all 4 are since replaced), there is the all too common wheel well rust in the bed, both fenders and the hood are beyond repair and need to be replaced. drivers fender has a dent that interferes with the door and has rusted into its bent form, the passenger fender was attacked by a bear (not joking. both on my brat and my brothers outback legacy, the passenger fender got bit and bent out). and the hood has an odd bit of rust in the under frame of it. irrepairable, and i have no idea how it got there . interior is also in sad condition, but i dont need to type out annother paragraph on that. Now, in a random stroke of luck, i found a 1985 GL hatchback (2 wheel drive) that is the same generation body styling . and the even better thing about it; NO RUST . it lived in arizona all its life so it has the standard arizona car accessories such as; the awesome faded paint look, that is now a matte finish also. the oh, so, popular cracked dash and just overall rubber parts dry rotting. so my question is, just how much of the GL am i able to transplant into the brat? considdering the brat has been a New England car for most, if not all, of its life, i want to eliminate as much rust as possable. fenders and hood are a must, but do the doors match? windshield? i will upload pictures soon side note: i dont have access to my brat at the moment, due to it being on the opposite side of the country, but im going to get it this summer -
I recently have been helping a friend "repair" her 2000 Legacy Outback from a recent collision with an ELK!!! Hood, smashed, and drivers headlight busted and pushed in. Fender dented in but not crumpled back into door at all. Most of the force was in the "fall" of the elk onto the hood more than the "hit" pushing in. But anyhow...... The car had previously been "repaired" from a front end collision, so the passenger side headlight was already sunk in a tad. I sourced a '03 Baja hood and headlight.....cheap...with a bit of wrinkles but should match the car well since the fenders are not perfect, and the Bumper skin is gone. (a lift and bullbar are coming soon.....so the mad max...not so perfect look is fine) After bolting it all up,...it seems the hood and headlight are 3/4 inch or so longer than they should be. It really doesn't seem like the rad support is that far off. In fact it measures out to within 1/4" of a stock undamaged reference car. But still the hood and driver headlight are noticably farther forward in front than the headlight on the other side. Does anyone no if there is a difference in these hoods headlights? did they make the front end longer a hair when they introduced the H6? And Baja didn't have an H6 so why would they be longer? Or is something still just "off" with the front support piece? Anyone? -
Hey all. I was in a minor highway accident yesterday in my EA82. Nobody was hurt, and it was rather low speed, but I've bent my front left quarterpanel up and bent the valence under the bumper. The bumper itself is shifted to one side but it looks okay. I didn't even crack a headlight. However, it leaked coolant immediately after the collision, leading me to believe that the radiator took some damage. I assume this is from the valence under the bumper coming into contact with the radiator, and hopefully NOT from the center support. But on to my real question: I found a good fender/quarterpanel at a pick n' pull nearby, but didn't have the tools necessary to remove it with me at the time. What size are the bolts used to attach it this piece, and does anybody have a good writeup on replacing body panels? This will be my first wrenching on this car and I'm hoping for some guidance. Thanks! edited to add tags -
Selling complete vehicle or parting out. 88k original miles. Needs new transmission. Located Kingman AZ close to Las Vegas, NV All offers considered engine type EA82 1.8L single port fuel injected. Transmission type 3AT or M41 hydraulic controlled and vacuum. 1st gear works 2nd and 3rd wont shift into I think its the valve body or clutch pack. Power windows, locks, basically everything else works and many parts in excellent condition. Just not a mechanic and not interested in fixing. Engine runs great AC works excellent. Cash only or trade for trailer. Mark 928-377-9603 markwebfile@gmail.com -
I need help removing this trim for paint touch up. Are there clips, or is it just glued down? What is the best method to remove and reinstall? It is a 1980 Brat. Thanks for any help!!
