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Showing results for tags 'Check Engine'.
Found 13 results
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Like the title states - I have a 2008 Impreza (auto trans) with a cruise control problem. After about 5 to 10 minutes of driving the cruise stops working and the "cruise" light flashes until I turn the car off. Wait few minutes for it to reset. Wash, rinse & repeat. I've read several other threads with similar symptoms. But mine -There's no check engine, or other idiot lights in conjunction with... Plugged my scan tool in anyways (just in case) and it says everything is ok. Clearly not. Any Ideas? Thanks! -
2012 Outback 2.5, approx: 75,000 miles. She was driving on the highway about 40 miles into a 65 mile trip. Check engine light and traction light came on, Cruise and Brake warning lamps started blinking. Apparently these lights normally come on all at the same time when the ECU sets a code of some sort. Seems excessive to me. Scanned it and got a P0456 - Evap System Very Small Leak. Checked the gas cap and it was on and tight. Removed it and checked the seal, and there was a fine silvery layer of what looked like lead all the way around the seal. In some spots it was fairly heavy. Wiped it off with a rag and some light degreaser, also wiped around the filler neck where the seal makes contact. Reset the code and drove it about 30 miles while watching the monitors with my scanner and got the evap monitor to set about 5 minutes after I got on the highway. Rescan showed no new codes. Going to keep an eye on it and see if it pops up again. This seems to be a common occurance with these newer cars, and it looks like most people just replace the gas cap. Wondering if simply cleaning the seal on the gas cap is something that could be done periodically to prevent this problem. -
Hello, I am new to the board and this is my first post. I am on my 4th Subaru, and still recommend them to friends. However, my Forester (2011) uses too much oil, forcing me to constantly check the level. Now I have a new problem, At 102 plus K, I suddenly have a check engine and Dynamic Control light on stead, and a flashing cruise control. All appeared simultaneously. Any ideas? It is inconvenient for me to run to the dealer right now. -
Hello all, My 2001 Legacy L AWD sedan 5 speed is throwing the following engine code: P1101 mop$E1 Can anyone help me identify this? Thanks in advance, Jeff in Boston -
Dropped my WRX off at the Subaru dealer service center to get a diagnostics on an existing issue. Check Engine light comes on and engine codes read that all cylinders are misfiring. It started w/ #2 about two years ago, repair shop replaced the spark plugs. One month later, engine codes come back w/ cylinder 2. Eventually I get all 4 cylinders misfiring over a period of one year. Back to the diagnostics, the service techs ran a compression test on #2 and they said the compression was very low (I didn't write it down). How ever, after a little bit of research it seems like it could be a valve issue or more then likely a piston issue. Ether way its going to cost 5,000+ to fix. I looked at what a new motor would cost and Subaru can swap the motor they built for 8,400. Looking at Motion Labs http://www.motionlabtuning.com/services/pro-built-engines/subaru-pro-built-engines/ they sell a motor for 2,999 and after getting the complete set up its 3,800 or so. If you've got an engine from them or another site, please comment. What I'm wondering is if its worth putting that much money into this car? The two passenger doors need to be fixed, I scrapped a rail road tie a few years ago. I can use insurance to fix that for 500. Needs a new windsheild. KBB says its work 8,100 - 9,000 in "fair" condition, and the most it could be worth is 11,000 - 12,000. With repairs ranging 5,000 - 8,400 does anyone think its worth putting that kind of money into it. It will show an accident on car fax. Any tips would be great! My guess is that there might be someone who will pay 12,000 for a 2008 WRX with a brand new motor and the body being fixed up. -
I’m in Winnipeg Manitoba Canada and if you know the Parries, you know we get some cold weather. It has been -20 Celsius or less for a week now and I’m having some real issues with the warning lights on my dash. I have 2014 Forester 2.0XT with Eyesight and a factory installed car starter. After a night of cold weather I will, of course, try to warm up my car using the Subaru installed starter.. but it won’t work. It doesn't want to start the vehicle because the computer is displaying the following warning lights: Check Engine, Hill Assist, AT Oil Temp, ABS, Vehicle Dynamics System, Pre-collision braking system off and Lane departure off. I took the car into the dealership last year and presented a photo of the dash (because these things never seem to present themselves when you have a technician standing next to you), they agreed that it was strange and replaced the wiring harness. This seemed to do the trick; however, at this point the overnight temperature had begun to improve as spring was on its way. Now we’re into January again and I’m faced with same issues. I don’t want to be a super big baby about it, but I paid the extra money to have a car starter installed (because I don’t have a garage) and it just won’t work. Is anyone else experiencing the same issue as me? Or, do I have to just suck it up and face the fact the car starter only works in the summer, and that the warning lights are just another reminder that the winters on the parries are brutal. -
I have had intermittent problems with check engine light coming on in my 2005 Impreza Outback. Usually fixed with a bottle of fuel injector cleaner, but this time the check engine light is on and the cruise control indicator flashes constantly. Any suggestions? -
Recently bought a 93 Legacy wagon off Craigslist for my father to commute to work out of town. It runs good and is used to commute 250mi's a week (highway drive 125mi there & 125mi back). I check it out every weekend when he gets back. THE MAIN issue is it backfires thru intake at startup & the idle is high, only when engine is cold! After it warms up it runs better & idles fine. It had the Bosch 4 prong platinum spark plugs, runs better with copper NGK's, but still backfiring. I cleaned the PVC vavle, MAF sensor, IACV, & throttle body also. Had the exhaust checked out & they replaced 1 of the cats but not sure if they really checked EVERYTHING out. Previous owner had replaced the plugs/wires & air filter. I've researched this & came across a few possibilities but the car runs fine once warmed up. coolant temp sensor could be failing-dumping too much fuel at warm up. Timing belt could have jumped a tooth. Exhaust leak near the head or at the Y-pipe allowing air in & then closing when warmed up. Low or uneven compression. These are some of the problems that I read can cause a backfire but the car runs really nice once warmed up. Another issue is the speedo doesn't work. Check engine light is on for Vehicle Speed Sensor. And the POWER light for the trans blinks when you turn the key on. I figure that the tranny Control Unit senses the VSS & is why power light blinks. So does this mean the Tranny is in a "SAFE MODE" not performing at its best because the computer sensed a problem? It feels like it could have more acceleration & performance is what im getting at. Any helpful suggestions, comments, questions or information is highly appreciated! THANKS. -
So I bought a 1996 Subaru Impreza Outback Wagon a few weeks ago. For the most part it runs fine but I've noticed a few problems and the check engine light is on as well. For one it is not getting the gas mileage it should it's getting about 21mpg combined and thats because i have the FWD fuse in...it gets worse mpg when it's in awd like a good subie should be. Second, the engine seems to lack a bit of power and thirdly, which may also tie in with the second, it has over-revved twice on me on steep hills. Fourth, the transmission shifts a little rough especially in the first 10 minutes of driving. And fifth, there is often times (but not always) a slight burning smell coming from the engine bay (but no smoke). I took it to autozone today and had them run the codes on the check engine light and it came back with 3:P0325--faulty knock sensor or circuit bank, P0106-MAP sensor performance (which says likely cause is vacuum leak), and P0301- cylinder 1 misfire detected (leaking or blocked injector). Anyone on this forum good at diagnosing over the computer based on observed issues and check engine codes pulling who can give me an idea as to what could be causing the listed problems and were to start looking at fixing them? -
Hello All, I just receently had my oil and batter changed at a local jiffy lube. They attempted to hook up the device to not lose any info from the computer but it wasn't charged enough so it failed. When we went to start it up afterwards it took a few tries to get it to turnover and then when it finally did a few lights were flashing on the dash. My emergency brake, check engine, traction control, and cruise control are all blinking now. They couldn't run a diagnostics because their scanner is broken. They said that the system just needed to reset itself and driving it around a little bit should take care of it. It has been 5 days and over 100 miles and nothing has changed. When I brought it back, they told me to bring it to another garage to have them figure out the problem but don't let them do any work and have jiffy lube take care of it. I don't exactly feel comfortable having a garge go through the hassle and then telling them no thanks, don't fix it. Any ideas on what it could be? If its a simple fuse that I can take care of, i would much rather just do it myself. Also the weird thing I have noticed with my starting troubles is if I turn the key half way and let all the electronics come one first and then start it, it fires up no problem. Any help would be appreciated. -
Hello fellow subaru owners, I recently got a 2001 Legacy GT for both my first subaru and my first car, it has been running great and I'm beyond happy with my purchase but last night while driving home on the freeway, my check engine light came on, everywhere I have looked said to check the fuel filler cap and/or blame it on an emissions control unit malfunction. How would you guys recommend I diagnose the issue without breaking the bank? Thank you all.
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I'm posting this one because I found my own answer to an annoying situation and didn't find this same problem listed elsewhere. Hope it helps someone else. Our 2005 Legacy sedan was in at my (previously) trusted oil change place. The battery was 5 years old, at the bottom of the marginal rating, we live in Minnesota and they had a good price on a good battery = new battery. They promised they had the right equipment to keep a small charge so I wouldn't have to reset the ECM. When I started it up, not only were the radio pre-sets gone, I had a rough engine and a solid check engine light - You can guess I wasn't happy. I did the ECM reset, but the check engine light wouldn't clear. I took it to an auto parts place and they couldn't get a reading from the Data Link Connector / ODII. I called my local dealer to get the location of the fuse they might have blown and was told there are no fuses related to the ODII - Bring it in and the will run it through a full diagnostic $$$. Well, I'm not a sucker (there are/should be fuses protecting all electrical equipment) so I spent the evening with the schematics (bought a pdf of the repair manual from subarumanuals on ebay a while back) and traced down some possibilities. MB13 (7.5 fuse in the motor compartment, far right side of the fuse bank, 3rd from the bottom) was blown. Replaced it and all is well. My guess is they ran too much juice through their little gizmo - So my new question is did they have the choice of power settings and mess up or is it unusual for this to be on a little 7.5 amp fuse... Don't know, but their (lack of) response to their screw-up has me back making appointments for oil changes at the local shop. -
Sorry forum posting virgin here ... but I had an issue last night that I think maybe you guys on here have some smart advice for me Some background: I have had my Subaru Legacy 1996 since 2004 and it has about 140k miles on it now. It hasn't had any major issues lately and has always been a reliable machine. The Event: So last night around midnight after spending some time with the guys, I was driving home on the freeway/highway/motorway at a leisurely pace (around 55-60 mph) and suddenly my car started to lose power. I had to down shift to get any juice from the car and made it to exit. When I got to the exit ramp, all the lights on the dash lit up (check engine, oil, etc) and my steering got very stiff, but since I was going only 10-20 mph, I was able to control it and continue rolling down the hill to the end of the exit. I down shift all the way to 1st by the time I got to bottom of the exit, but then I noticed I was getting power back. I slowly made a right turn and drove into an empty parking lot and drove around without any noticeable issues. Luckily I was about 2 miles from home and took surface streets home without any issues. I was in 4th gear heading home and rolled down the window, but didn't hear anything out of the normal. When I got home it was too dark to look under the hood, but this morning I popped the hood. The ground under the car was dry, but the bottom of the car looked oily (but I don't know if that has been that way for a while or if it was new). The coolant tank was empty and I think the rest of the oil levels look ok .. the motor oil was a low but not empty. Anyways, the mechanic I would have taken my car to is closed today so I probably won't be able to get it to him till Monday, but maybe someone on here has some ideas of what this may be all about. Thanks in advance and I am finally no longer a posting virgin!!!
