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Showing results for tags 'Check Engine Light'.
Found 12 results
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I recently replaced an idle air control valve and the check engine light is still on and the idle is still rough. Do I need to reset the ecu? Or do I have a faulty wire? I'm a bit unsure because normally I've never had to reset the ecu.- 11 replies
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I am in the process of buying a 2006 Subaru Tribeca, the car run great and has been well taken care of. On the way to sign the title and make the sale, the check engine light came on flashing intermittently as well as the anti skid light, the cruise control also was flashing and neither the skid or the CC we're functioning. I had driven the car earlier and had no lights on. Car ran very smoothly. Had a couple mechanics take a look and nothing seemed to be out of order and there were not codes coming up from the scan. Mechanic said it might be a tight valve.....anyone have any advice about what this might be? Love the car but don't want to get involved with something that's gonna be more trouble than it's worth. -
Hello, friends. I desperately need any available insight into a 1.5-year-long recurring problem with my 04 forester with turbo. The check engine light comes on along with the flashing cruise control light, and if you drive long enough after that, there comes a very loud, echo-y, ominous "whoooooooooooo" sound that both ascends and descends, and the vehicle struggles to accelerate, most notably when traveling above 40mph. This has happened about four times over the past year and a half. The first two times, it went to Shop A where fluids were replaced and the vehicle ran fine after that. The third time, it went to Shop B, and they changed the oil and replaced the solenoid valve (which was identified as the root of the problem). The fourth time, it went back to Shop B and they diagnosed the same exact symptoms as being unrelated to the valve, but being the result of a failing turbocharger. Has anyone had an experience like this with a forester or with any subaru with turbocharger? Shop B has been really inconsistent and suggested that the turbocharger couldn't possibly have been failing over a year and a half, but these symptoms, to a T, have been recurring over that span of time. I bought the vehicle from friends and have their entire folder of vehicle maintenance, and there isn't really any problem of substance therein. Just routine maintenance. Thank you so much to anyone able to shed light on this problem. I'm very concerned that I'll have to buy a new vehicle. -
I am trying to clear the codes on my 1997 legacy brighton wagon and the scangauge II does not seem to work? Did I waste my money on it and is there another way to clear the code? -
I bought the car a month ago and drove it until last week when it stopped starting. When it was running it idled real strange when stopped, kept bouncing around but wouldn't stall. Also when it shifted to second it seemed to lag some power. Than it overheated once but cooled down and never overheated again. Next day the check engine light popped on and it got about 10 miles a gallon. So now it will crank but wont turn over. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and spark plugs. I am not that mechanically inclined and also can't afford to get it to a shop right now. Really hoping someone could offer some incite on what to do next. Thank you -
Hey guys, I recently bought a 1998 outback! After having the car for a couple of weeks I was looking at the fuse box and noticed a few wires were disconnected. I followed them up to the security sensor and because it wasn't connected to anything I just took it out and put it away in my garage. but, as I was sitting under the dash board I noticed there was a green connector both male and female that wasn't connected, I was curious to see what it was so I connected them, not thinking it would hurt. A couple hours late I decided to run over to pep-boys to pick up a few fuses and when i turned the car on my check engine light came on! since I was at pep-boys, I asked them to check my codes since they do it for free, after he plugged the code reader in 11 codes popped up! they were things like engine misfire, o2 sensor, feul, speed sensor (which works). As I got home feeling overwhelmed I remembered that green plug I had just connected earlier that day. I once again went under and connected it and low and behold the check engine light turned off. I plugged it back it and it came back on! I Need help!! why does this wire do that?? one other thing, the mechanic said it could be a bad ground wire because my turn signal lights blink fast and are dim, I don't know if that has anything to do with it. -
Hey guys, I recently bought a 1998 outback! After having the car for a couple of weeks I was looking at the fuse box and noticed a few wires were disconnected. I followed them up to the security sensor and because it wasn't connected to anything I just took it out and put it away in my garage. but, as I was sitting under the dash board I noticed there was a green connector both male and female that wasn't connected, I was curious to see what it was so I connected them, not thinking it would hurt. A couple hours late I decided to run over to pep-boys to pick up a few fuses and when i turned the car on my check engine light came on! since I was at pep-boys, I asked them to check my codes since they do it for free, after he plugged the code reader in 11 codes popped up! they were things like engine misfire, o2 sensor, feul, speed sensor (which works). As I got home feeling overwhelmed I remembered that green plug I had just connected earlier that day. I once again went under and connected it and low and behold the check engine light turned off. I plugged it back it and it came back on! I Need help!! why does this wire do that?? one other thing, the mechanic said it could be a bad ground wire because my turn signal lights blink fast and are dim, I don't know if that has anything to do with it.
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1993 4x4 Legacy wagon, 5sp, non-turbo 210,000 miles. Every day when I drive to work, the check engine light comes on in almost exactly the same place, just before the car reaches normal operating temperature. Sometimes the light goes off after a few minutes, other time it stays on untl I shut the car off when I get to work. The car seems to run just fine even when the check engine light comes on. I can get a trouble code number 42 out of the memory, when the light is on. I have changed the temperature sensor, the Idle Control Valve and the Idle Contro Switch, none of that has made any difference. Anyone out there have any ideas what to look at next? -
Hi, I have had a run of bad luck with my 2009 Subaru Outback, and was hoping I'd reached the end of it. But my check engine light came on in the evening two days ago. After that, I drove home 5 miles. I took it in the following morning - the verdict was that something chewed through one of the spark plug wires. Ok, so I had that fixed. This morning I call the mechanic and they're telling me that I actually drove 65 miles on 3 cylinders (this was before the check engine light came on) and that this put a lot of stress on the engine, and might have caused damage to the engine. Well, I just had a brand new engine put in last month, so I am totally freaked out at this point. They said not to worry about it too much, but how can I not worry?? I guess my question is, how worried should I be? Thanks, Bev -
All - I just bought a used 01 legacy sedan auto and a week into it noticed, while driving, it started sputtering/missing around 3500 rpm - 4500 rpm, as well as emit a high pitch type whistle from, what seems to be the rear of the vehicle/exhaust. this happens through every gear; 1, 2, 3 - have gone that fast in D. After the 4500 rpm mark - it smooths out until redline. it has 150k on it. AWD no upgrades. just had timing belt, water pump, and head gasket replaced before I bought it. Seems as though it was also done at about 126k miles based on documentation in glove box. so - did the guy who sold it to me actually do it - or am I a sucker - dont know - at this point - cant care - just need to fix the car and move on. In park, the car will rev up to red line with no issues - aside form the whistle noise our of the rear end - so, it doesnt appear to be mechanical. It only makes the noise through that 3500 - 4500 range. this started up two days ago - ive put about 50 miles on it since - seems to drive fine otherwise until today - check engine light came on. Last fill up was on Friday-check the cap. I havent brought it in to check the code yet - just happened on my way home tonight. Looking for a some guidance on what to check - used forums for my other soobies - seems to be the best place to get straight answers and willingness to figure it out with you. Thanks for any leads - if you know a reputable mechanic in Omaha, NE area - let me know. -
New to the forum! My SE-R's QR25DE bit the dust so for the time being I had to buy a winter beater. I was looking at 90's Civics, Crollas, Camrys, Maximas. Suddenly had the idea to check the area for Subarus. I didn't think I'd find one in my price range, but hey: 1987 GL Hatch? Rebuilt title? Rusty rear end from probably rear end repairs? Nonsense, less than a grand and some TLC later, I've got a soild runner. Someone even installed modern AC that works. There's only two things that concern me. 1. If I drive this car casually, after about 20 minutes the check engine light comes on. I'm guessing the engine or transmission warms up enough for something to go awry? Autozone and my local Subaru dealership said they don't have the equipment to check my computer, too old. An older guy at Subaru told me that it's probably "something with emissions (O2 sensor?)" and that although it won't get the best gas mileage, it'll run fine. THe only warning he could offer was to watch out for overheating. Driving on the highway or using 4WD offroad cuts this time down til the check engine light comes on. She starts everytime, runs decently well. I wouldn't be able to tell if it's running rough but it sounds like the ones I've seen on youtube. 2. I can hear an audible clicking coming from the driver's side front wheel/hub/rotor. It's always there, more noticeable now that the car actually has a muffler. It speeds up with speed of course, and I'd have to double check but I'm pretty sure it's always there. Not like it goes away by shifting to neutral. My memory is fuzzy at the moment, so I'd have to double check. I've done research while looking at other older cars, and from what I've learned: it could be a bushing? CV joint? Worst case, axle? These are just educated guesses, please enlighten me! I hope nothing too serious is wrong with my new Hatch, it drives very well, shifts great, and the suspension is like new (probably replaced). Let me know if I need to bust out my wallet to "buy" my car again :/
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So, I'm driving home from the store last night and the old check engine light pops on. Then it goes off after about 1 minute. Car is running fine so there's no obvious reason for it. Is there a way to read the codes without having to buy a code reader ? I tried to do a search but no success. This forum does not allow search terms like "CEL" or "code". "Check engine light" returns too many unrelated results.
