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Showing results for tags 'Coil'.
Found 14 results
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1988 Subaru XT, crazy no spark condition
Hamm3y posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I usually don't post to forums that much because I'm pretty good at finding issues and fixing them, but this no spark condition is drive me crazy. I have access to the factory service manual for my car. I was able to use it for the MPFI control unit pin read outs for intense trouble shooting. Condition of ignition system No engine codes in read mode. Crank angle sensor is functional. Tested all 4 wires going to the distributor and it is reaching the MFPI control unit. Tested Coil, it works when I take the negative post and I strike it on the negative side of the battery. Coil is good. 2 Wires going to the Power transistor that is connected to the coil are operational. one is out putting 12V and the other one is a Square-wave from the computer. ( i have pictures of the oscilloscope when I pulled the distributor out and put it on a drill) The only area that I am having trouble with is the power transistor. I tested the ground and it has 0 ohms to the negative side of the battery. I got another junkyard power transistor and it didn't give me spark. Its weird that there is no testing procedure in the 1988 Subaru xt factory service manual for the power transistor. So I either got 2 bad power transistors or the square wave from the computer is not strong enough. Does anyone know how to test a power transistor? *all fuses are fine* -
Hi guys, I am trying to do a tune-up on my 98 Legacy outback & ordered a wireset & coil from Rock Auto months ago. Finally went to put it in & it was all wrong. I thought it must be a mistake so went down to Napa to get the correct set & the one the pulled up is the same as Rock Auto. Now this is obviously wrong - the coil on my 98 has the female sockets for the plug wires & even the bolt pattern is different than the one I got on Rock Auto so it wasn't just a coil swap. My ID plate says 98' EJ25D which seems correct... Any ideas? ... What gives?
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Today’s problem, ignition coil. What is a good replacement? It throws a yellowish spark 1/4 inch. It is definitely not any shade of blue. Leaky engine oil. The oil pump seal is the culprit. The oil pump is fine, only one season on it. How do I re- do the seal? Water pump. This one is 11 years old, and 24,000 miles. Replace? Catastrophic Converter y pipe piece needs to be replaced. Where can I buy a decent one? Oh, and an donor-body. This one is rusty. -
I have a 2003 Forester XS with 217,000 miles and a misfire code for cylinder #3 (P0303). The plugs were replaced with NGK's 7500 miles ago and the wires about 17000 miles ago with NAPA lifetime made by Belden. After looking for obvious problems (loose wires, shorts), I replaced the coil pack with a used one from a '04 Forester. The junkyard just said that the engine ran well that it came out of. When I switched out the packs, it ran better, but its still skipping occasionally and throwing the same code. I also have a small evap leak (P0442), but I doubt that's related. I decided to check the wires with a timing light. FWIW, these are the results: Original Coil: #1 Fast light, occasional skip; #2 Slow and intermitted light; #3 slow and intermittent light; #4 fast light, no skip. Junkyard Coil: #1 Fast light, occasional skip; #2 Slow and steady light, occasional skip; #3 Fast light, occasional skip; #4 Fast light, no skip. I'm wondering if I got a second bad coil pack. Also, is there any protocol for bench testing the coil pack? -
Howdy, All. I'm hoping to get some guidance/advice on where to go next. I've got a 99 Legacy Outback (30th Anniversary edition) that just flat out died while driving on the interstate. No previous problems or symptoms. Car turns over, just never starts. Note: The check engine light is not on. I've run the diagnostics, and gotten no codes. Here's what I've done: * I believe it's not getting spark (by spraying starting fluid and still nothing, also I can hear the fuel pump switch on and I pulled the fuel line and am getting output). * I put on a new coil pack - no change to the symptoms or status. * I took my ignitor and put it into another car. Other car performed fine. * I took out the crank sensor and the cam sensor to test them. They appear to be functioning fine. * I took out the ECU and put in one that I know to be fine - no change to the symptoms or status. *** Note: I found it weird that the car had the same symptoms regardless of whether an ECU was hooked up or not. Now, where do I go from here? Timing? Also, please know that about every fifty attempts at trying to start it, it sounds like it gets close to catching at the initial key-turn, but then nothing. Please help. -
I have a 2015 Subaru Impreza coupe. The car has about 75,000 miles on it. While driving home from work about a week ago, the car suddenly began driving very rough with the check engine light coming on in a flashing mode within 3-4 minutes. I proceeded to drive directly to the local Subaru dealership, which was only a 5-10 minute drive away. Upon performing a diagnosis, they informed me that one of the coils was bad. As there are four coils, it raised the question of whether I should replace all four coils or just the one. Here's what I learned from the dealership: Subaru recommends replacing only the bad coil should one go bad If a bumper to bumper warranty (or other warranty covering the coil) were in place and a coil went bad, Subaru would only replace the single coil The dealership indicated that just because one coil went bad doesn't mean the other coils are any more likely to go bad than if they were on a different car which had similar mileage but never had a coil go bad There is no recommended mileage at which the coils should be replaced Coils cannot be measured for wear and tear. E.g. it's a black & white thing - either it works or it doesn't work. The dealer says the only real reason to replace all four would be for peace of mind My driving habits or the service history had nothing to do with the coil going bad Based on this info, there doesn't seem to be any reason to waste the money to get all four replaced. Is there any reason I should get all four replaced as opposed to just the one? Thanks in advance for all feedback -
I thought I posted this already but FF must have crashed first and lost it. I have a 95 Legacy with cyl 3-4 not firing. I ahve a spare coil and igniter from another wrecked car to swap in. My question is if a bad igniter can damage a good coil. If the igniter is shorted on would that burn out the coil primary winding? Am I better off to change both? I could do the light bulb test on the coil primary but this needs to be done by my son in another state and he may not have the resources to do that. Thanks. -
Hi All, I have a gorgeous 1985 Turbo Sedan in incredible condition inside and out, but the car hasn't been starting for months. And a snowy Boston winter is when I need it most! Car can be seen here: http://www.checkoutthiscar.com/2012/09/pleasant-pleiades-83k-mile-1985-subaru_14.html I hate to see the car garaged and not running, and I bought this little mountain goat to use it!! Just to preface, this is my first post, though I've read every last thread I could find related to this subject. I must be missing SOMETHING, but I can't figure it out. I've been at this for literally five weeks and I feel like I'm at a dead end. Here goes... Car cranks but no spark at coil. Primary and secondary circuits are within spec on a new Accel 8140(?) coil. Coil reads ~12V at both + and - terminals. Importantly, the tach does not respond when cranking. I have tried 2 separate digital gauge clusters to no avail. Coil is connected as follows: black/white from distributor to + 12V from harness (black/white) to + yellow from distributor to - yellow from harness to - thick black ground from harness to - I have a loose plastic connector from distributor not connected (what is this?) I have tried 3 separate distributors. Original, junkyard, and rebuilt/tested from Advance Auto Parts. Same problem with each = no spark at coil. Tested all HT leads from coil to distributor and cap to plugs. All good. Cleaned all pickups on old cap and rotor. Tried new cap and rotor. Took off both fenders and tested continuity of all wires through engine compartment and under dash, etc. I cannot locate a fault anywhere! I've installed a new battery and have not checked the charging system since the car won't fire. I'm getting fuel and the pump functions with green connectors attached, and also as the starter is cranking. Pressure and compression are great and consistent among all cylinders. Timing is set properly, and rotor points at #1 cylinder when flywheel is at TDC. I'm sure I've gone through other systems and sensors over the past 5 weeks as well, but they're escaping me at this point... Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions for me. I'll be forever indebted! Many thanks, Andrew -
Howdy, we have the 2005, and it needs suspension work. I am pretty handy and well equipped, and use the lifts at the garage on a military base - however, this is new to me. The garage has a strut / spring compressor mounted to the wall I can use. I need some recommendations for the best way to go about that. Should I just buy replacement struts with the coil (front) and the similar full assembly set up for the rear ? Or should I buy only the struts (front) and shocks (rear) and then reuse the coils ? I reviewed some of the info about ghostwalking, which is not an issue we have experienced. In the solutions area it says... Solution #3: Replace worn rear dampers. The 2005-2009 chassis dampers (struts/shocks) are notorious for premature wear. The rear end is the worst with a floatly/bouncy feeling after only a few years of use. The fix is to replace the rear shocks with a more robust aftermarket brand like KYB Excel-G/GR-2. Using the 2003-2004 chassis rear KYB shocks is a popular option because they stiffen the rear end considerably and are 100% compatible with the 2005-2009 cars. See the main suspension FAQ thread for more info. Would that be the best way to go at this point ?? I am not sure what a "damper" is, unless they are referring to the entire shock / strut assembly. They mention only the shocks, so are they reusing the spring coil ? Any other recommended struts or shocks, or should I stay with OEM from Subi ? Thank you, C -
I swapped a 97(?) JDM 2.5L in for a 99 2.5L recently. The 99 was driven about 60 miles with no water in it due to a blown hose, nuf said, it wasn't me. I installed the "new" older 2.5 with new timing belt blah blah blah. Timing set up nicely. Even though the JDM was injected, we transferred the inake and other appropriate items to the "new" block including drilling and tappping out the EGR hole in the head. I don't want to go into the 4 bolt vs 8 bolt "bell housing" issue as it doesn't seem to be an issue. Where my problem is at, is that I can get spark to the cylinders #1 and #2 but get no spark to #3 and #4. The coil(s) check out, the ignitor checks out and there doesn't seem to be a signal from the ECU to fire the #3/#4 ignitor circuit. I have checked the wiring between the ECU and the Ignitor and it appears OK. The connector at the ECU is clean and undamaged. So I assumed it was the ECU as I have read that it is the main source of "no start" conditions. I put in a used ECU. I got exactly the same deal, no signal to #3/#4 circuit in the ignitor. I find it hard to believe that a second (albeit used) ECU would have the same problem ........ or does it? What would cause the ECU to send signals to fire the #1/#2 circuit but not the #3/#4? I am baffled but it is probably something simple. Any help? I am new to this site and this is my first request. As far as my background. I have degrees in Electronics and Mechanical Engineering so I am no ametuer at troubleshooting and I am pretty much down to earth in that degrees don't mean spit sometimes. I usually find the simple things are the ones that trip us up. -
Got the weber swap done and car is running. Been driving it for a couple days and it is much quicker in the lower end and a hell of a lot louder idles good and runs smooth other than a sort of "flat spot" when giving it more throttle, almost as if its shorted on fuel or air? I also think the timing could use some adjusting but I can't advance the disty anymore because of a port and hose coming out of the intake manifold, into the block. (This is an EA81 motor with a weber on a EA82 intake manifold). But thinking I can remove and block that hose to get the timing dialed. So my question to the board is; what would you do to this setup to give it just that much more power/response/smoothness? Cap and rotor? Coil? Btw it's a 1982 GL 4x4. Thank you! -
Okay so its not literally purple lightning but thats what it looks like. My coil is arcing between the posts with purple "lightning". Ive never seen this before nor do I know how to diagnose this.... any ideas as to whats wrong? Is the coil itself bad or is it something I can fix? i.e. is it not grounded properly etc.... thanks for the input! I just wanna get my 81 sedan back in tip top condition so i can get it to the show this coming year.
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Hello , so I've been only getting like 20 mpg if I drive really nice (less if I'm driving normal) in my 1986 4wd GL Weberized wagon. I've done the usual tune up stuff (plugs , cap , rotor , wires, fuel filter , cleaned air filter) The weber is running the recommended tuning I got from loyale27turbo's guide. I figured we were both at similar elevations so it seemed close enough. I've also recently replaced the (roaring) bad front wheel bearings it had , with some sweet sealed ones. I run normal sized tires at right below their max psi. Everything has fresh oil. All the front cv joints have been regreased and booted in the last 2 months. I've also replaced the timing belts (they're spot on) and changed the oil pump gasket. (not that it helped the ticking at idle , I think those cam tower o rings are bad) Ignition timing is set at like 16 degrees btdc. Battery voltage reads in the 14's with the car running Anyhow here's the actual issue , so someone gave me the idea to check the voltage at my coil. It's only 12.7v with the engine running around 1200 rpm and goes progressively down with more rpm. It also heads down with whatever accessories I turn on (heater fan , headlights , turn signal , etc) to a low of 12 volts at 2000 rpm. I bet it even heads lower with an actual load on the engine and not just revving in place. Also I dunno if this is related but my voltmeter jumps with the turn signal. Any ideas? I mean I thought about doing a relay set up to get full voltage to the coil (using the same logic as the headlight relay set up. Bypassing all the various connectors and ignition switch that add resistance and rob voltage)
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So my car died on the freeway a few days ago. I'm driving along at 65MPH, I have an A/T. I'm at 3600RPM when suddenly the tach drops to zero, I feel a slight lurch (like the engine went from pushing the wheels to the wheels pushing the engine) and the car rolls to a stop. I try to start again but all I get is dry cranking. I got it towed home and tested the plugs. none of them are getting spark. The coil tested kinda funky so I replaced it. no change. the car still will not start. It makes the same sound when I unplugged the first plug on the ECU (wires 43-52) Everything electrical (lights, horn, wipers, radio etc) works with the key in the accessory position AND the on position. I want to get this problem fixed quickly. I refuse to say my car is beyond repair because it happened so suddenly and nothing else is wrong with the engine. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bb7NDFy9mxQ Attached is a video I took just now describing the situation plus my cranking the engine. Thanks so much for reading!
