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Showing results for tags 'DL'.
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Hey y'all! I am removing my bumpers and am wondering if anyone is interested in it. I will have the front marker lights attached. I'll send pics tomorrow when it's brighter out. I am not asking anything for them, just pay shipping. -
Hey guys and gals, Im a new time member with a new-to-me 1981 DL 1800 Station Wagon 4WD. And I am having issues getting my wipers, radio, A/C, and radiator fans to work. A previous owner Jerry rigged a wire to bypass the temp sensor on the radiator and also Jerry rigged a relay where the three Fused wires go. My question is: does anyone have pictures of a stock fused wire area in the engine bay? I looked on the digital service manual that was provided on this forum...but a ton of electrical pages are missing/corrupt. I just need a reference to what is stock and possibly fix these issues. Also, I have a fuse that keeps blowing....from the wires (blue and blue/red?) they look like the A/C fuse. Any help would be super appreciated! I will attach pictures later when I get better lighting.
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I’m wondering what gauge wire and what kind I should use for my 3 fuse links in my 82 Subaru Brat DL. https://imgur.com/gallery/L8EZVG6 -
Hi all, I've been using this forum for the last month to try and figure out for to get my 1983 Brat GL running. I recently rebuilt the Ea81 it came with and swapped the hitachi carb for a Weber (new). There are some rust issues with the car but the engine is in great shape. I've got the engine back in the car and it'll fire up with starter fluid sprayed straight into the carb. Tuned the fuel mixture, set idle, timing, etc. Now the issue is, if I detach the fuel line going straight to the carb and run the fuel pump, fuel comes out of the line and flows nicely. However, when I attach the fuel line to the carb and run the pump, it's like there is no pressure at all. No fuel runs through the forward fuel/vapor filter. I hear the pump running but fuel doesn't fill the filter. Could it be an issue with the float? Or possibly the Weber filter underneath where you attach the fuel line? Or a pressure issue? Do these carbs need a return line? Would really appreciate everyone's ideas and replies in advance. I've worked with the carb on my motorcycle (dr650) but other than that I don't have too much experience with carbed Subarus. -
hey old gen friends, recently came back to my wagon parked on the street here in New York City and found my driver side corner light smashed, so looking for a replacement. Also been hearing some grinding in the front end on the passenger side. I need to track down a complete front passenger side wheel assembly (bearing, hub, spindle). If anyone has these parts for sale, please let me know, I need the corner light to pass inspection which is coming up soon and from the sound of things, also need to replace the front passenger side wheel assembly ASAP as well. thanks, Glen
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So, I got this Subaru DL Wagon back in February. It’s only got 60k miles on it it’s honestly in great condition but I’ve now broke both CV Axles, driver side was simple replaced in axle good to go but the passenger side broke and tore up my hub. (Think the previous “owner” The Subie dealer that I got it from) put the wrong ones in and just pressed till they fit. Any ways I have been looking for a new hub does anyone know if the justy front hub will be a direct replacement for the stock one on my 1988 DL? Thanks for any advice or any where I can get the right part I’ve called Subaru and the parts guy laughed when I said what I had haha
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Windshield from a 1978 dl. Make a serious bid, prefer pickup,. Has small rock strike upper left. I will put in crush pile Mar 25,2018 Mike Kiester Oklahoma Windshields are hard to photograph!!
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I had my oil pump fail on my 1987 ea82. The belt pulley broke off the shaft. It seems the rotor seized in the block (see pictures) and I am not sure what could have happened or if metal flakes got in between the rotor and block because it looks like the rotor had been scraping as you can see in pictures. why would the rotor go rogue and do this damage? also is that opening in the middle supposed to be misaligned? it almost looks cracked?! I have just recently purchased this vehicle and have had zero issues or TOD until the pump failed after I put roughly 700 miles in. I am a little scared to try and remove the rotor using some force because I don't want to damage the block. Advice or ideas?
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Hey gang, So my '89 DL wagon has recently begun idling very low. It's a new issue, which as far as I can tell began after taking her for a bit of muddy time. However, unfortunately, I cannot be certain about that, as I only noticed the low idle a few days after. I don't know how many RPM she's idling at as there's no tacho, but it's low enough to be rather rough, and also the engine has cut out several times during driving. You know, pulling up to the lights, put the clutch in, engine goes back to idle, oh no! idles down too low, stalls. Bye bye power steering, bye bye assisted brakes. It's a little concerning for me, particularly as one of the first times she carked it like this was going around a roundabout! Anyway, I think I need the to find the Idle adjuster screw. I've had quite the trawl to see if I can find a resource that'll help me positively identify it, but no such luck so far. I'm posting here as this morning I found out that the screw I'd been playing with thinking it was the idle adjust was, in fact, the throttle stop screw. Oops! Can someone please post some pictures, to help me find this little guy? '89 DL, Hitachi carb, Australian edition! Thanks in advance team!
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I have a front wheel drive 3-speed Automatic 1988 Subaru DL Recently I had the ol' "doesn't shift in drive!" issue that is notorious in this transmission in particular. (My story goes like this one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/158122-3at-problems-in-86-leone-turbo/) I replaced the Oil Modulator on the transmission.... no difference. So now it's time to check linkage and the Governor. But first I have some questions. Does that linkage bar look alright? I am unsure where it should or shouldn't be bent.My shifter goes into park but needs a very hard push to actually CLICK the lever into the park detent. I also want to know if the second image is indeed the governor cap with the three bolts. If so, do I need to drain my ATF before I remove it?
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This thread on lock cylinder interchangeability has gotten me thinking. I'm on the hunt for an EA82 (Specifically an '88 or '89 GL), and have not had luck finding the right one. I've been thinking about gathering parts so when I do get one, I can easily swap out parts and pieces without having to hunt for them or wait for shipping. Ultimately, I would like to add a killswitch (or three) and have the locks be rekeyed to help with security. Can I go the junkyard, take a set of locks off of any EA82 wagon, have them rekeyed at a locksmiths, and have everything swap over really easily? Is there a better way to do this? Is there anything else you do to help with security? Let me know your thoughts!
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New member and its great to see all the support for these amazing vehicles! Anyhow, I have a 1986 DL original motor, trans, everything. It's a bare bones subie with power nothing, no AC, 4 speed, front wheel drive, front wheel e-brake. Like with everything else, the motor has slowly tiring over the years and I'd hate to get rid of it. Horsepower is the grail of this quest and how to go about a motor swap, suspension upgrade, etc. I have no idea what type of motor/suspension products to procure, what to look for, how to start, and of course, I'll need to upgrade my metric wrench set. Suggestions are certainly welcome. Thanks!!
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Does anyone know what the ECS light is on the dash? I recently did a weber swap on my 1984 Subaru DL. Var runs better and stringer than ever. My only concern is that afther a while of running it (15 minues or so) a ECS light comes on. Is this anything serious what could it be and how do i get rid of it. I never had any lights come on before the swap. Thanks
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I got a 1979 Subaru DL today. Unfortunately it is FWD and Automatic, but the price was right!!!!! It is having a couple problem probably from sitting for a year. When I start it it runs at idle for about 2 seconds then screams like I have my foot to the floor! I used a can do carb cleaner, checked the idle and mixture screw, checked air lines and don't see any problems. Could it just be that the float is not seating and the pump is just pouring gas? I drove it home 4 miles, started it and put it in gear it would take off and start racing, when it got going to fast I would shut off the key and let it slow down, then when I needed to go faster I would turn the key on and it would kick start even though it is an automatic. Hairy ride home but I made it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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The plastic C-Pillar window molding on my ea82 coupe is broken. (Number 37/38 pictured) I have to remove the A-Pillar/Gutter molding to get to it. (35/36) How should I go about removing these? Without snapping them, of course. Thanks for your time. -
I literally just registered here, so, hello. I spent some time lurking, trying to find information but it didn't work out so well. Anyway, I drove into a guy's tow hitch at about 10 mph yesterday and the car shut off... and won't start now. There was minor damage to the front end, everything got pushed in on the drivers side a couple inches, the radiator was broken, and the bumper sits crooked now, but the hood still latches and the fan and everything behind it is fine.. everything should be good once I install the new radiator either later today or tomorrow. But still, the problem remains.. I can not start the car. It will turn over, the starter has no problems.. I have spark and everything.. I don't think it's getting fuel. I have read different things about whether the 1988 DL's have an inertial cutoff switch, been told to check around the back of the car, etc. I spent hours looking yesterday and couldn't find a damn thing. SO I have come here, to seek help from people who know these cars. Does my car have one? Not sure if it matters but it's FWD and 5 speed. Or maybe it's something else? The fuel lines in the engine bay are all in tact.. I haven't removed one to check if there is fuel in it yet because I have just assumed it's not getting fuel and don't want to do the work.. The fuses are all fine, too. I'd like to have my car back running ASAP since it's my daily driver. Any help is appreciated guys! -
Greetings from the southern Sierra mountain in California. I bought my '85 Suby from an elderly gentleman for $400. Since then, it's been down muddy mountain trails, through streams, and passing brand new cars in blizzards. I've never seen a model like mine, with 4 headlights, so i'm not sure if it's been modified or is just a rare make. It still passes CA strict smog laws, and has only needed an engine head replacement 8 years ago for major fixes. I still amaze people with the spare tire sitting on top of the engine, and 4wd on-call buttton.
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Hi everyone - So as you may know I'm giving away my DL wagon. But because I've lost so much money on it already and I hope to own another wagon in the future, I'm keeping the steel rims if I can. I might have to sell them with the car, however. If so, what what would you say would be a reasonable price for the rims alone? Thanks! -
Hello everyone - Well, I went ahead and bought a wagon, and it came with a..a... I don't even know what it is, but it sounds like a bomb going off while I drive. I'd like an exhaust system that is relatively quiet but that babies the engine a bit. I need to drive up and lot of steep hills. Can anyone suggest what I should be looking for? Thanks!
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Hello - I just bought a beater 86 DL wagon with so much friable plastic it's kind of silly. I have a possible line on a parts car, but it's a 91 Loyale. Does anyone know what can be swapped right over w/o too much trouble? I've been looking at this thread on this forum, and it seems like I should be able to switch out, say, the door panels (or entire doors?) but the thread is comparing an 87 GL with the Loyale. Does everything still apply to my 86? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/131244-dumb-question-loyale-vs-gl-wagons/ Thanks!
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So a friend sent me the link to a CL ad and I had a buddy pick it up for me while I was across country. I guess I will find out what I bought when I get home in a few weeks. All I know is the Seller claims it needs ALOT of work. Here are the CL ad photos for now.
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Howdy, My Subaru won't start all of a sudden. I am new to this car, so bear with me. I will explain what I have observed. Upon turning the key to a point the lights turn on the fuel pump in the rear makes a "Rrrrrrr... Rrrrrrr" Sound with about a one-and-a-half second pause between sounds. This happened before but the car would start and then there would be a constant "rrrrr" sound. There was a situation not so long ago where I cranked for a while longer than I'd like to, and it did start. The fuel pump and fuel filter look brand new. But my first assumption to this point is that I must have been too low on gas and they got gummed up. However, I must consider than the sound is normal. Again, I'm a newb. Did a firing test. Definitely firing. Suggestions, ideas, knowledge? Update 1: After letting the starter attempt to do it's job for about five or six seconds the car did start and does start every time after. However, I do not know if that means the problem is somehow solved. The idle itself on the first rough-start was fine, but became more adequate all of a sudden with a higher RPM. I will be doing a cold start soon to see if I experience the same difficulty. Update 2: I let the fuel pump oscillate two to three times before attempting a start. After actually running or being on a trip it starts right away. The short (if there truly was one) is also gone. I have not experienced difficulty to start anymore. I assume it was dirty fuel causing inadequate pressure. But really, I don't know.
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I am interested to know what the value would be on a Subaru DL wagon such as this. The pictures show there are some rust issues, but not quite sure what would be a good price on a car of this condition. Any help would be appreciated. http://www.ebay.com/itm/171848541479?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true Thanks, Ryan
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Alright, so this is the first time ive posted on here before, ive been on here for 2 years now but never had a reason to post, well i recently bought a blue 1990 loyale that had been sitting for 10+ years, i need help deciding whether to pull the plug on this vehicle for parts for my other wagon or rescue it. Pros: not a single spot of rust interior is beautiful body is straight as an arrow A/C somehow still works power windows and locks work 130,xxx drove 180 miles from where i bought it. 4wd Cons: Automatic transmission oil seal leaks smokes ALOT when it runs rear passenger wheel bearing is bad electric fan does not work head gaskets look pretty soaked in oil so it probably needs new headgaskets my question is what is all the smoking out the exhaust? how do i fix it? is it head gaskets? and how much life can i expect out of an automatic EA82? is it even worth fixing, because my other wagon is ready for a new rear bumper and powersteering and seats and more stuff. keep in mind that i live in south Texas where these EA82 cars are rare and have yet to see another in the last 3 years of driving my GL sadly... i am the cars only mechanic, and finding parts down here is a joke. everyone refuses to work on it, even the dealership. any help is greatly appreciated thanks!! -Omar
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So I went out and bought some nice 16" rims on brand new tires. Little did I know subarus lug pattern is 4x140 and not 4x100 or 4x114 like I needed. Does anyone know if I can redrill my rims to fit the 4x140 pattern? They are universal 4 lug so they already have 4x100 and 4x114 bolt holes. Can I do this myself? Difficulty?
