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after getting the bolts out (serious slow torture on the rusted encrusted ones https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/186067-any-new-ideas-for-the-old-intake-manifold-stuck-bolt-problem ) then had to clean up the surfaces - the right side was so pitted I ended up taking it down with a medium diamond hone. The first and second image are from just scraping it with a sharp putty knife and carefully filing with a old "cross hatch" file - not happy.. so I worked it for about 3 minutes total with this medium diamond hone. Walla! did the same to the bottom of the manifold - but only removed what lines, pipes,sm0g stuff, etc. I needed to in order to lift it up only a few inches, so I had to use my selfie camera and it doesn't focus (kinda like my eyes now ) as I'm hoding the cell phone camera facing up .. kinda like holding a minature yoga pose Here's a couple of images using a "dental mirror" showing the ends of the manifold's water galley, I think I need to clean it up more BUT it was getting too cold and the wind and fog were rolling in.. .. and before I stuffed the sock in the intake port I looked down into it and I see a pile of "oxide crystals" so I'm going to make sure that intake valve is closed and try to get a skinny rubber hose attached to a vacuum cleaner down past it and knock most of it lose with a chopstick .. if yea all think that's a good idea?
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I plan on rebuilding it first with some new piston rings and pistons but they're gonna be OEM grade replacements so I'm wondering what it would be able to handle without grenading itself -
1988 Subaru XT, crazy no spark condition
Hamm3y posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I usually don't post to forums that much because I'm pretty good at finding issues and fixing them, but this no spark condition is drive me crazy. I have access to the factory service manual for my car. I was able to use it for the MPFI control unit pin read outs for intense trouble shooting. Condition of ignition system No engine codes in read mode. Crank angle sensor is functional. Tested all 4 wires going to the distributor and it is reaching the MFPI control unit. Tested Coil, it works when I take the negative post and I strike it on the negative side of the battery. Coil is good. 2 Wires going to the Power transistor that is connected to the coil are operational. one is out putting 12V and the other one is a Square-wave from the computer. ( i have pictures of the oscilloscope when I pulled the distributor out and put it on a drill) The only area that I am having trouble with is the power transistor. I tested the ground and it has 0 ohms to the negative side of the battery. I got another junkyard power transistor and it didn't give me spark. Its weird that there is no testing procedure in the 1988 Subaru xt factory service manual for the power transistor. So I either got 2 bad power transistors or the square wave from the computer is not strong enough. Does anyone know how to test a power transistor? *all fuses are fine* -
hey! i’m finishing my ea to ej swap and wondering if anyone has recommended an aftermarket baffled fuel tank that fits the gl wagon? i replaced the fuel pump & lines and i’m worried that the more powerful pump will cavitate with a 1/2 empty tank, especially uphill. thoughts? thanks, groucho
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This Thread is a Continuation from This one ~► Here, which have more Background info of my Former White, Wagon. ______________________________________________________________________________________ My Dad Purchased This Subaru Wagon New from a Dealer in Hollywood, CA (USA) in 1985 and the Subie Came Runnin' new, from there to my Country, Honduras, at the caribbean central america... I Can't imagine any Better Way to Break New an Engine! This Subaru wagon is a GL and came with white paint, EA82 carburated engine and 5 speed manual transmission. Since child, I learned Automotive Mechanics with my Father, working in a 1969 Mercury coupé, a diesel Truck and this Subaru; With time I did all the maintenance on our cars and eventually this Subaru became mine; since then I started to modify it ... ... The Subaru ran Good for the First five Years, but then the Smog Stuff (Cathalytics, etc) got poisoned with the Leaded Gasoline (Here became available unleaded gas just until 1994) so we Removed both Cathalytic converters, the Carbon Canister, solenoids, hoses and everything related, even the EGR... This is a very old photo which I scanned: After hurricane mitch hitted and devastated our country in 1998 ( if you want to read statistics and see photos, click ~► Here ) a friend of my dad that owned a similar Wagon with a blown engine, sold it to my Dad as parts car; eventually we obtained the engine off from a wrecked Subaru Alcyone XT6 (ER27) and we managed to fit it on the former parts car, painted it on yellow and that was how we started the Project "Loyale 2.7 Turbo" and thus explains my Screen Name. That 2.7 Wagon lasted ten years, I had the Two Subarus, the White EA82 and the Yellow ER27 during that time. In the following photo, you can see them together: Despite that there were no place on engine's bay to put a normal Radiator on the 2.7 and it was running hot with a tiny pair of lateral radiators and electric fans, (You can read the complete details of such engine swap, ~► Here) the car worked, until it was wrecked in a huge frontal car crash, as you can read the details, ~► Here. Since I Lost my Dark yellow 2.7 wagon, I took some parts from it to Transform my Good Ol' White Weberized EA82 Subie onto a Much Better Machine, with the Best parts from the Two, and made many, many modifications to it. I still wanted to drive a Yellow Wagon, so I Choosed to paint my White Wagon in Yellow too, but with some Style Changes: ► I Used Brighter Yellow Paint for the Body and Deep Black Paint for Stripes! ► I "Shaved" the Subie's Body. (Paint thread ~► Here) ► Lifted it for medium duty offroading! ► Some minor Body Design Changes, ► and I made many, Modifications, Retrofittings & Swaps. Here in my Country, ALL the Taxis are White, and 85% are Wagons! ... ... So, My white wagon was Looking like a Taxi ... ... also I Really Love How those wagons Looks in Yellow; That was my Motivation to Change its Colour. Part of the Minor body Design Changes are, a sheetmetal Hood Scoop, which I name: the "InterFooler" ... ... the Original Idea was to Let the engine to Scream out Loudly thru the Weber Carb's throat during deep acceleration! ... ... Also I changed the Lug pattern redrilling the hubs to use Different Rims, and many, many more Modifications, which will be explained in this thread. After all that, my former white Weberized Wagon has been Renamed as: The "BUMBLE BEAST"
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Vehicle: 1986 Subaru GL Wagon, Dual Range 5 Speed, Carbureted, Weber 32/36 Converted Issue: No longer getting Fuel Pump Signal to the Pump. It would be intermittent, but now seems to be consistent with getting no Signal. I've heard from @Gloyale that the 6 pin Fuel Pump Controller (Relay) only sends power to the pump when there is a Tachometer Pulse on the yellow wire... Is that Signal originated from the Distributor? Also I've heard from @GeneralDisorderin regards to the Controller, that: "The wire going to the pump is usually a blue with red stripe. The control unit will also have a yellow tach signal, black ground wire, and an ignition hot supply (white I think)." Background: The problem began intermittently... if I had an issue with the pump, I could either add Fuel directly to the carburetor to prime the system. Or, I could apply power directly to the Fuel Pump to also Prime the system. Occasionally I would have to do both in order to get the vehicle to run. Once the pump was working, it would not cut-out mid-trip. Not until the vehicle was turned off and then tried to be re-started later; would an issue happen, where I would have to do one off the pre-mentioned priming methods. Now the pre-mentioned priming methods no longer work... What kind of tests can I do to see what needs replacing? I'd like to have the wiring stay this way it was from the factory... however if not I could wire the fuel pump to a switch, racecar style... I'm not sure though; does the tach Signal increase/decrease pump speed based on engine speed? Thanks for reading, hope to keep my Wagon on the Road! -
STOLEN 1987 Subaru GL wagon. Silver color, EA82 with 5 speed D/R. Stolen Oct. 17th in North Seattle. WA plate AHR0543. The back seat (bench type) was removed. The image is from before the 'Quick-n-Easy rack' and tent install. The roof top tent is a 2 person TEPUI. Travel cover is black. Large black plastic wind deflector in front of tent. The tent fabric is the silver colored all weather, 4 season canopy. I made a larger rainfly that fits over the stock rainfly. Very unique appearance because the custom rainfly is supported by tent poles with shock cord to make long horizontal poles. The tent had defects from the factory. One problem was the holes for the stock rainfly support rods were drilled horizontally. I had to drill vertical holes so the rod anchor places have 2 sets of holes. The ladder side floor has two 4" diameter port holes with threaded covers in the corners for a heating system. Half the heating system was in the tent. The tubes to convey dry heat are 2" diameter stainless steel bellows type tube (very rare tube ). Vehicles all over Seattle are stolen with shaved keys so homeless persons can have vehicles to commit crime and live in. It is mobile family dwelling. The homeless population is immune to prosecution. They park on the streets and can not be towed. If my vehicle is trashed, I will have EA82 and GL spare parts available: engine, heads, case bolts, lash adjusters, mirrors to list a few. If you see this vehicle in western Washington, please call the Seattle Police Dept. non-emergency line 206 625-5011 with regards to incident # 2020-296202 Thanks ahead of time, Silverback
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Test light success. It turns out that the 1993 model quietly had it's wiring changed around. Many sources online I have found claim for the constant 12V to be on the red/green pins and the illumination on solid red (which consequently, also attach to two pin connector with the same colored wires). This is WRONG. Test lighting the supposed red/green and red wires at the connector will show there is no power through these wires, despite them being connected to both the stock head unit's harness and the two pin connector coming off it and back to the car, regardless of key state (off, accessory, on). The blue yellow wire (pin one) will only power in accessory and on positions. Thus, 12V switched (or ignition as it can be labeled on aftermarket diagrams) has been located. Last, but certainly not least, is the mystery one pin connector with a white clip. It is ORANGE from the stock unit, and at the car side, changes to GREEN. Putting a test light to it in off will show power, as well as all other key states EXCEPT start (engine crank, this is normal). This is the constant 12V (or battery connection) that is SUPPOSED to be the red/green wire (or perhaps, only applies to years prior; I can only speculate why Subaru did this and won't begin to). So, let's recap. Constant 12V - Orange from stock unit, green after single pin connector (aftermarket manuals may call this 'battery') Switched 12V - Blue on stock unit, blue/yellow after eleven pin connector (aftermarket manuals may call this 'ignition') Ground - Black on both sides of eleven pin connector Wires in question: http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070451.jpg - Constant 12V http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070352.jpg - Switched 12V http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070410.jpg - Ground Of course, the result will become clear when you jam it all in the dashboard and turn the key on: There is no illumination, nor remote power on lead for the amplifier (unless you installed one), and the power antenna wire is also unused (again, unless you installed one). Again, I used a test light and checked everything in each state of ignition. I know this gets searched up a lot online, but I'm not responsible for what you do to your vehicle, nor can I confirm if this will work in your scenario. That being said, use caution and common sense. Hopefully you can make use of this information if you decide to install an aftermarket stereo.
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Hey folks. I am thinking about selling or trading my 88 xt non turbo part time 4wd. It has two owners including myself and 192k miles. I daily drove it for the longest time and now the cv axles are gone (as they do on this platform). I have quite a few parts including headlights, front bumper, little odds and ends, passenger window etc. Fenders are rusty but what can you do its an xt. Does anyone have any idea on what I should be asking price-wise for it? Is this something to hang on to? Thoughts? Thank you all!
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I'm afraid I've overheated my ea82 in my 85 gl10. I don't know what to do with it. It is leaking coolant from the block. Is there a fix? I'd really like to keep it running. It sat in a storage unit for 20 years which means it's in awesome shape with low miles. Under 60000.
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Hello everyone, if anybody is still active in this part of the site. I am looking for information on all kinds of stuff to do with my EA82 in my 1987 GL wagon, d/r 4wd double manual. I’m looking for the sizes of the fuel lines in the engine bay, and basically any and all other information, bits of cool knowledge, technical notes, parts lists, basically looking to get together a type of encyclopedia of EA82 information that people have discovered over the years. Most importantly is the fuel hoses because I want to replace all of my hoses in the engine bay with clear hoses. The PCV system is all clear hoses now along with an air oil separator in the line. thanks!!
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I have a 1986 GL wagon that I need to get rid of. It would make a great parts car. The thing has been reworked and is missing much of its vacuum lines and has a carburetor off of something with an air cleaner from a f150 (I think). But the engine is mostly intact, missing the alternator and coil. (And no I didn't do most of the butchery). The glass is intact except for the cracked windshield and sunroof. I would also have a SPFI EA82 that I want to get rid of. I can get $300 for the GL from a scrap yard. Not sure what the EA82 is worth but I do know oil pumps are getting harder to come by as are other parts. I am in the Seattle area and would like to see these gone this weekend.
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Hey folks! I have an 88xt non turbo, part time 4wd that I would like to fully restore or do a build of. I bought it from the original owner who unfortunately drove it in the snow so there is some cancerous rust. The water pump fell off into the crank pulley and damaged some things but I believe the engine to be salvageable as it didn't overheat too terribly. I would love any help finding body/interior/engine parts to help restore or build this thing back glory. It would be cool to swap in a higher power motor or the ER27. I would be ecstatic to find a set of louvers as well. Anything helps! I'm new to Subarus so I'm kind of unfamiliar with alot of things. Thank you all for responses/help
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If I were to design a 3D printed cup-holder to replace the Loyale's slide-in center console (between the seats and under the handbrake), would people be interested? I'm currently modeling it for my '92—not having cupholders has been brutal. Also, is Srj still actively fabricating parts for the these older subarus? He hasn't updated his website in forever. Cheers, -Alex
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I have an 87 XT and an 86 BRAT with an EA82T and an EA81 respectively. If either of those motors dies on me catastrophically I'll have to do an engine swap. I know most people seem to like dropping EJ engines into these cars, but I would like to make them both diesel with subaru's EE20 diesel engine if I can. I know that its physical dimensions will work as it is slightly smaller than an EJ22. I was curious if anyone knows what kinda of transmission mods I'd have to perform? -
I’m picking up a gen 3 Loyale wagon 5spd 4wd. 375k on the chasis and 150k motor from a wrecked 2WD. It’s been driven daily by the owner for the past month since the motor swap. My plan is to get it ready and reliable for driving up Mt Hood and snow this winter. I mean it already sounds decently reliable while the guy’s been taking it down logging roads solo. But I’d rather work on things now while the weather’s decent to work outside and the lifts aren’t running. I’ve never had a vehicle at this mileage before. Seems a lot of things can wear out in 375k miles. What are some good preemptive measures and maintenance to should take care of? What are some things that could shockingly live forever without touching? Maintenance that’s likely to have happened by 375k? (Not that there’s any way of really knowing) Leaks some oil but seems fine if it stays topped up. How concerned should I be about the head gasket? Motor is only at 150k. Power steering is out but still drives okay. After reading some threads it sounds like some people just drive it and don’t bother fixing. Probably want to avoid any Austin Powers parking scenarios. The struts could be better. It looks like replacing them with stock KYB will raise the rear end. Any remedy here? Or it’s a non issue? Not too worried if that’s an advantage when loaded down. Otherwise it starts, handles, and stops fine. Should I replace springs? Seems like that isn’t a common thing to do around here The A/C works so that should take care of defrosting. Even the rear window defrost works. The heater functions but could be better. The 4WD works. Love the light up display when you hit that Fire Torpedos button! Has (used) snow tires on it already. Debating on buying newer snow tires or all terrains. Eventually I want to do a 2” lift, auxiliary battery, extra lighting. That is, if it doesn’t blow up before I can get to any of that. Priority is to get the thing reliable for the mountain. I have tools but haven’t done any serious car work in a long while and only worked on motorcycles for the past few years. I’m capable but compared to bikes I have a feeling this thing will be more ...involved. So what should I get to work on?
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I am about to attempt an engine rebuild on my 87 3Door and realized how grossly unprepared I am. It would of course be much cheaper and easier if I could find and already built engine or even a short block to buy, but I am having zero luck with that search. My questions for you guys are... Do you know anywhere I can either buy another engine already rebuilt or a short block to help with cost and labor? Are there any tips you have for a first time engine fiddler? I have had my car for several years and have done loads of work on her, but after blowing the head gaskets this last time, and getting blow-by in the engine, I decided it was finally time for an overhaul. Any help is mega appreciated!
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Hi all, I've been using this forum for the last month to try and figure out for to get my 1983 Brat GL running. I recently rebuilt the Ea81 it came with and swapped the hitachi carb for a Weber (new). There are some rust issues with the car but the engine is in great shape. I've got the engine back in the car and it'll fire up with starter fluid sprayed straight into the carb. Tuned the fuel mixture, set idle, timing, etc. Now the issue is, if I detach the fuel line going straight to the carb and run the fuel pump, fuel comes out of the line and flows nicely. However, when I attach the fuel line to the carb and run the pump, it's like there is no pressure at all. No fuel runs through the forward fuel/vapor filter. I hear the pump running but fuel doesn't fill the filter. Could it be an issue with the float? Or possibly the Weber filter underneath where you attach the fuel line? Or a pressure issue? Do these carbs need a return line? Would really appreciate everyone's ideas and replies in advance. I've worked with the carb on my motorcycle (dr650) but other than that I don't have too much experience with carbed Subarus. -
Oil and Oil Filters Since New, my beloved subaru "BumbleBeast" has been using 20W~50 motor oil on its EA82 engine, (that SAE grade is for our warm caribbean climate) but in mineral form; mainly from Chevron and Motul; and I changed its oil and Filter at the proper interval, around 3,000 miles. When it became impossible to find an original Subaru oil filter on local stores anymore... ...I used the Recommended oil filter in Purolator brand, for the EA82 engine, which is the Purolator L-24457 Sometimes it wasn't easy to obtain it locally, so I used the Equivalent with slightly larger body, Purolator L-20064 However, larger body means less oil pressure on the system, so with time, I migrated to the Purolator L-10028 When newer oil technology came, with the development of Synthetic motor oils, I chose to use Valvoline's "MaxLife" motor oil, which is formulated to be used in Higher mileage vehicles; I adopted it since year 2012 (despite that I've read about it long years ago on magazines, it took some time to reach my Country and more time to lower its price on the local market) firstly I tried "MaxLife" in ATF form on my Wife's car with excellent results, then in Power Steering fluids on her car and mine; finally I switched to this "MaxLife" in Motor Oil also... ...circa 2014, which was a hard year (for me), with big decisions to take... one of them was to use this oil on extended periods of time, which I wasn't accustomed and I was afraid to try, but I gave it a go, and seems like the hardest part was to obtain a long life, synthetic oil filter to go with this oil. It doesn't make any sense to pour a long life motor oil, with a standard cardboard filter, isn't it? So, after searching, studying and analyzing my options; I found a small, synthetic oil filter with long lifespan, designed to be used extended times, and it had very Good opinions and reputation online, in web sites and forums dedicated to motor oils and filters; but this filter is much smaller than the oil filter recommended for the Subaru EA82 engine; which according to modern lubrication standards, is Better, as a smaller bodied filter aids to keep a higher oil pressure in the system, which is ideal for this engine and its exigent hydraulic lifters... you know. Here is the Oil Filter I chose, compared side to side with the older one which I used for long years: The Napa Platinum 41394 is made by Wix and is pretty small, but satisfies the requirements of the EA82 engine. Here are the Specs: here, you can see how this small oil filter, fits on the EA82's oil pump Base: And, believe it or not; I've been changing the Motor Oil on my Subie's EA82 on a Yearly basis, due to two reasons, money is tight and I am not using it so hard as it was used before 2014, since my small family and I, moved from the big city, to a small mountain high town, in the rural Honduras. I've been changing this synthetic "MaxLife" 20W~50 motor oil along the Napa 41394 synthetic oil filter, every December, since 2014, and the Subie runs flawlessly, no problems so far, despite it surpasses 400,000 miles; also the old used oil still comes out pretty good. Kind Regards. ________________________________________________ Extra info: if you can not see the Photos I shared from Photobucket, you can add to your web browser, an extension named "Photobucket embed fix" wich will let you see the photos, flawlessly. Greetings.
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I've got an idea I want to investigate, but was wondering if anyone had any experience removing the bumper skin from the early EA82 front or rear bumpers. There are brackets bolted in the corners little clips on the skin that match up to cutouts on the bumper frame, but I would need 12 arms to compress all the clips at once. My only EA82 FSM is for the 1987 model year, so not helpful on the early bumpers. Thanks! -
Hello, I have an 86 wagon with an in-progress SPFI swap from an 88. The donor car didn’t have a tachometer, oil pressure gauge, and a few other accessories. I’ve got it to start in the 86, although I need to make some idle adjustments, but figured I’d get the important gauges and warning lights to work before I ran the engine too much. The donor was was equipped with an idiot light for oil pressure which ran from what I believe is the oil pressure switch. The 86 wagon’s original engine had a larger unit which is just over from the plugged hole where the oil pressure switch would go, which I believe is the oil pressure unit. In my attempts to get the gauge and idiot light to both work I ran the wire from the oil pressure switch to the idiot light and to the gauge, which made the light work fine but the gauge would go all the way up when the key was in IG and slowly fall to zero. I then removed the oil pressure switch and installed the larger unit into the SPFI engine and connected the wire for the idiot light and gauge to it like before, and neither the light or the gauge worked. I know the gauge and light both worked in the 86 wagon before the original engine was removed and I know the idiot light in the 88 worked before the donor engine was removed. For me to have both the idiot light and oil pressure gauge working, can the larger unit work both? If so how do I wire them? Do I need both of the units to be installed and have separate wiring for each? Any help is appreciated!! -Will -
My buddy Eric1111 has been working on my car. I cant sign into his account for some reason to post this so I made my own account to post for him. (Loyale 1990 with weber conversion) Eric says-- I've just finished replacing the clutch components and was to the point of trying to start the engine. It turned over nice, sounded good, good battery, but I hadn't hooked up the throttle. Next try, turns over nicely, timing's off, shut off the key, adjust timing. Try again, turns over, but timings wrong. Shut it off, adjust timing. Turn the key and nothing happens. Now the horn works, the emergency blinkers work. The chime that tells me my hand is on the key works, but I can't find anything else that does work. All the fuses look good. The fused links look like they did before, and I switched them around,looking for some change. The battery reads 12.48V, (It was 12.49 before I jumped the starter, which turned the engine over easily), but at the ignition switch,the hot wire reads 11.82V, with the key in the off position. Is the 1 volt loss an issue? I thought I had it narrowed down to the ignition switch. Replaced that to find zero change. Been workin on this car all day with Adam Sandler's POS car tune going in my head. Any thoughts on what the issue is?
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Hi all! I drive a 1992 Subaru Loyale wagon and just finished an intake gaskets change but cant seem to get the car to start now. This was my first big repair and it feels bad when the car doesn't start once back together!! I also replaced fuel lines and some coolant hoses along with an egr solenoid and a purge solenoid valve. I didn't take many pictures but I am pretty sure its all wired back up correctly. Battery was checked with a multimeter and is fine. Bad spark plug wires are one of my guesses and im grabbing some later today along with new spark plugs (since one plug might have got coolant in it during intake job). I have two videos of the car with its sounds attempting to start. https://vimeo.com/412065609 https://vimeo.com/412065609 Any and all suggestions would be great!! Thanks!! -
I have a Subaru loyale the last wiring to the ignition coil it’s all weird looking there and extra plug if anyone can help thank you so much. and if any one has any pictures of there ignition coil wiring that would be great -
I have a 90 loyale that has a no start I have replaced the coil and there is no spark right after the coil I am wondering what these plug goes too will show in picture it is the same kind of plug that plugs in the the transistor the weird thing on the ig coil bracket
