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Showing results for tags 'ECU'.
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I have an 03 Outback 2.5 A/T w appx. 184k miles. Trans has been replaced and the previous owner took good care of and maintained the vehicle well. The past several months I have had starting/idling/stalling issues. This general is worse when the vehicle is cold. It is hard to start without giving the accelerator a little help it most of the time will not start and keep running. It will stall if the idle is not kept up but when it does it runs fine. Sometimes it will idle and or start on its own without help, but that is generally only when it is warm, however can periodically do so on a cold start. When it stalls out, often the "AT Oil Temp" light flashes. The car is not throwing any codes. When these issues first started the symptoms where worse and the idle on a few occasions started to run high on its own, yes while driving which was quite dangerous! A few weeks back I ran some Seafoam into the intake into two different areas as per the bottles instructions to try to ensure that all cylinders where feed properly with the remains in the fuel tank. I also cleaned the throttle body out the best I could (air filter good, pcv valve iffy.) I did not get the standard heavy white smoke on start up that I normally do on other vehicles leading me to question whether the process took properly. I had a mechanic tell me to reset the computers values by disconnecting the negative lead & touching it to the positive side and leave set for 15 minutes or so. All of this seemed to do the trick. However, it started again and I brough it to my mechanic. The only thing they could find was a reported vacuum leak next to the intake. That certainly could do it and assumed that when I reassembled the air cleaner, I must have not made a proper connection and was gald that was the problem. It was not. THe car is still doing the same thing. I am going to try and replace the fuel filter and pcv valve next but if that doesn't do it, I am stuck! Suggestions!?! Btw: The TPS switch was tested and all that seems to be good. Please HELP!?! -
1988 Subaru XT, crazy no spark condition
Hamm3y posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I usually don't post to forums that much because I'm pretty good at finding issues and fixing them, but this no spark condition is drive me crazy. I have access to the factory service manual for my car. I was able to use it for the MPFI control unit pin read outs for intense trouble shooting. Condition of ignition system No engine codes in read mode. Crank angle sensor is functional. Tested all 4 wires going to the distributor and it is reaching the MFPI control unit. Tested Coil, it works when I take the negative post and I strike it on the negative side of the battery. Coil is good. 2 Wires going to the Power transistor that is connected to the coil are operational. one is out putting 12V and the other one is a Square-wave from the computer. ( i have pictures of the oscilloscope when I pulled the distributor out and put it on a drill) The only area that I am having trouble with is the power transistor. I tested the ground and it has 0 ohms to the negative side of the battery. I got another junkyard power transistor and it didn't give me spark. Its weird that there is no testing procedure in the 1988 Subaru xt factory service manual for the power transistor. So I either got 2 bad power transistors or the square wave from the computer is not strong enough. Does anyone know how to test a power transistor? *all fuses are fine* -
Hey all, I have an 87 XT coupe with the EA82T engine and i'm looking at tuning options for finer control. I was originally going to replace the ECU with a fully tunable Megasquirt 3, But someone had mentioned using a piggyback Power Commander Tuner https://www.dynojet.com/power-commander/ It was one post, but he had said if you changed the connectors on this tuner it could be used on our early ECUs even though it is designed for bikes? I'm curious if anyone else knows anything about this or how I might go about it. It sounds like it should be easier and quicker than a full ECU swap, as well as giving you the option of unplugging it and running off the stock ECU if something goes wrong. From what I read it is more than one of those ridiculous chips that just enrichens the fuel air mixture. This actually has 2 tunable fuel maps as well as ignition tunes, possibly opening up switching to distributorless timing and finer tuning of the timing? Thoughts and help on this would be great., alternatives too. As always thanks in advance.
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Hi guys, I've recently discovered my XT's ECU was fried inside, I took it apart and saw the burnt electronics. For a long time, it had a lot of sputtering and hesitation. My suspicion is that it developed a short circuit. When trying to start it, it would blow the fusible link, I traced all I could until hesitantly checked the ECU, it looked bad inside with signs that a massive short circuit took place. But I can't avoid wonder if something else could have had a short which burnt the ECU.. Top left corner is all burnt. (On the image) Question, do I need to replace the ECU with the exact same type as it originally came with? Are there any issues regarding whether it is Automatic or manual transmission, turbo or non turbo?. I have a real unicorn here, it's a 1986 XT 3AT converted to a non turbo with non turbo pistons... Any thoughts, as always very much appreciated! davepak
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Any help on finding a 1993 Subaru Legacy sport ecu to engine wiring harness? MT/turbo. I’ve looked all over the place to find one but no luck. -
Hello all Im hoping to get some advise on possibly reflashing my ECU. My 2007 Outback 2.5 is going crazy and I admit I don’t know enough about the Subaru’s to troubleshoot it without some advise. I just gave it a small tune up to get the engine from missing. But the dash is lit up like a Christmas tree. The picture shows what it’s doing while running. I tried to clear the codes out of the Obd2 but I realize it’s more than that. I purchased the car cheep and was given a warning about the electrical issues. Main one was an airbag warning beeping that wouldn’t go away. when I drove it to get inspected is when the ABS messed up and locked up the front brakes. I limped it to the garage and that’s when the dash went nuts. the oil temp warning light blinks under all conditions, airbag still dings auditable tone even after replacing the console board in the headliner. It seems that almost every light on the dash is on like it’s going through a systems check but doesn’t know what to do. thanks for your help
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I'm doing long-deferred maintenance and repairs on a 2002 Impreza Wagon 2.5 TS. The car was operated by someone who knows little about cars (but drives like he's still teaching the Offensive Driving and Escape Course at bodyguard school. (Once drove 300 miles in 4.2 hours on roads that DOT would have closed following an earthquake.) The (originally US) car is located in Panama. (As I write, I can look out the window and physically see the "End of the Internet" before the footpath enters the rainforest on the other side of the river.) Parts are a challenge, especially as the 2.5L motor was not sold in Panama. I have the luxury of making my own schedule and no wife to harass me, unlike him. Modifications I would like to add: Slight lift Replace or rebuild the front seats Dash and rear cameras with DVR Navigation or display system (preferably one that connects through the phone so I don't have to pay for another data subscription) Cruise control Reflash ECU And why: I'm not looking at anything special, but sometimes water levels get rather high (the car has been known to 'float' across some low-lying intersections in downpours) and it is showing some 'saggy butt' phenomenon. Given that the suspension components are original from the factory in the US and it has 175K miles on the odometer, I am not surprised. a lift of 1-2 inches (2.5 - 5cm) would help immensely with scraping the undercarriage on some of the roads. The seats are pretty worn looking and the cushioning is about gone from the above driver (who now has back issues - so a lumbar cushion would be great for him.) Cameras are a must for insurance reasons. (Fraud, etc.) White people all live in mansions, you know, and make our spending money speculating on the stock market and playing polo. (I know you all are relating to this lifestyle. I sarcastically explained this to a lawyer (who busted out laughing), but her secretary was incredulous, "Of course, like on the television!") I wish I was joking, but it really happened... Navigation system would be helpful for using Waze, which is useful for tracking the speed traps and the traffic accidents. ("Didn't you know that my husband is a big-shot politician so I can cut you off without warning, Mister BigTruck? How dare you hit my overpriced luxury SUV even though I am violating the traffic laws!") Commercial vehicles cannot move to the side of the road until the special traffic investigators arrive, of which there are few. Collide with a truck or a taxi and cancel the rest of your plans for the day. Cruise control is a 'nice to have'. Not sure it is worth it. ECU is programmed from the factory to run best at 87 Octane. Only fuels available here are 91 Octane and 95 Octane, which burns out the O2 sensors in minutes. Car backfires, but runs fine in 'limp home mode' with a steady CEL. It currently gets about 28 MPG with the #2 O2 sensor bypassed and has been driven like this for about 100K miles without noticeable damage. There are no emissions testing and the ones that do exist are not enforced (as one can see from the trucks belching thick black smoke every time they hit the accelerator.) Compliance with EPA rules is not required. Forester parts are more plentiful (due to the off-road like paved roads.) Before I pay for the parts (returns are not permitted in most stores) I want to make sure that I don't have to special order something from the States (in which case I will throw it into a suitcase next trip to save on air freight costs.) One of the benefits of 'white privilege' is that one has the added bonus of having to pay a 'premium' on almost everything. I'm in the US about twice a year. Other than that, I can use parts from anywhere. Trying to keep costs down on a car that will probably cost the equivalent in parts and labor to fix as it is worth. The info on the board has been wonderful, but I am concerned about manufacturers changing things over the years and the parts that once worked being no longer available (or not acting the same way). Bless you all. I'll post a photo later when it stops raining. so hard.
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Hi all, I am freshly signed up, and also fresh to Subaru's. Must admit I'm a car freak from way back, so I know my way around most old school Aussie sold cars. But when it comes to computers and other new age electrical systems on most modern cars, I seem to have fallen behind. Now I'm hoping that somebody could give me a direction of where to look, I've got a 'no start' issue. Bought Subaru Wrx not running, thought I'd give it a go. Previous owner did an engine swap, ej20 replacing ej20. He never could start it after swapping, but it ran b4 that, low on comp in one cyl. Now I've tried a lot of things, had a auto electrician out here for 4hrs, changed Cam and crank gears, changed both sensors, even though the old ones appeared to send a wave on screen. It sparked once when ignition turned on, so I changed pulleys, still won't start. Any info appreciated -
Hi all, I've been under my dash pulling my electrical bits apart trying to diagnose something and today while pulling out my ECU to get at my fuel pump relay I noticed a wire coming from one of my ECU plugs that's more than a little janky. The FSM lists the wire as being "Line end cord output" which means a whole lot of nothing to me, so I'm hoping one of you lovely folks might have a better idea what that means so I can decide whether or not I should be fretting over getting it more properly connected. There's the wire in question, old solder barely holding on by one copper strand And here's the FSM labeling that wire as #11 on connector F108, "Line end Cord Output" Does that mean anything to any of you?
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Hi Guys, the last two days in a row now I've had a really hard time starting my '87 GL. this morning it took me about 30 minutes of trying, and I finally got it after about 30 seconds with the starter going, and gently feathering the gas pedal juuuust right. It almost started and then stalled a few times before I finally got it. This is something that has happened VERY infrequently while I've owned this car, like four other times in the last 8 months, and now two days in a row. Right now I'm traveling around rural Alaska and so having the car start consistently and correctly is an absolute must. While I was trying to get it started this morning I took off the kick panel to look at the ECU and see if it was flashing a code that might help me diagnose what's going on here. It flashed a very short blip 6 times, then a pause, and 6 more blips, all very short. By my understanding this means the code is number 6, but my FSM doesn't have a code 6 listed. Anyone know what that might be? After looking through the forums for similar threads I think my culprit is probably the CTS. Or maybe the fuel injector? There's a very strong gas smell as I'm trying to start it up that makes me feel like it's getting flooded. Though once I get it up and running it runs perfectly fine, and I put a can of seafoam in the gas tank just a few tanks ago so I'm not sure if the injector would be stuck I'm debating putting in new spark plugs and replacing my fuel filter as well while I'm at it, any thoughts or suggestions on a reliable startup are welcome and appreciated.
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I recently replaced an idle air control valve and the check engine light is still on and the idle is still rough. Do I need to reset the ecu? Or do I have a faulty wire? I'm a bit unsure because normally I've never had to reset the ecu.- 11 replies
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Hello, I've bought a damaged Forester XT Premium 2015 and I'm starting the recovery process. While I'm waiting for the body parts I'm focusing in putting the engine to run. First I sent the car to an mechanic and he told me that the engine ecu is not responding, because his scanner wasn't able to connect to the vehicle to read any fault codes. After that I sent the vehicle to the Subaru dealership and they confirmed that the ecu is damaged and needs to be replaced. I think that diagnostic is weird, because the crash didn't affect much the engine or any electronic parts. Does anyone know about something that might be 'blocking' the access to the ecu, maybe due to the crash? Something like the air bag system blocking the engine or something? The dealership is asking me $2000 for a new ECU, while I found an used for around $600. Is it possible to just replace the original ECU by a similar from another car? Is there any kind of locks, keys, passwords or something that might block the communication between the ECUs? Regarding the ECU partnumbers, mine is: 22765AH011, while the used I found is 22765AH010. All the other parts I found in the stores are not equal, but similar partnumbers: 22765AG970, 22765AG973, 22765AH510. http://parts.subaru.com/ http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/ https://www.subarupartsdepot.com/oem-subaru-parts.html Are all these ECUs the same, but with different 'software versions'? Is it possible to know if they are compatible? All of them are for the same vehicle version: Forester XT Premium 2015. Thanks in advance for any enlightenment!! -
Hey Im new to this forum and a bit new still to subies but i have this 1982 BRAT and i just picked up a almost complete EA82T to swap into it minus the wiring harness and ecu so i am in need of one does anyone have one that they would sell for cheap?-- i need every single wire and the ecu and also the hole MAF housing and the sensor and the downpipe so Please let me know. Thanks. -Jared -
This is really baffling me. Could use help. Pulled main relay and it bench tests fine. Had a crank sensor code, replaced with new. Timing covers off and all looks intact. Can see OBDII readout at port, but when I test probe connectors at ECU per FSM, I am not seeing power consistently at PIN 1 and 2 and there is no ground at 19. Cleaned as many grounds as I could find. Have new battery. Amazingly, I can hear fuel pump run on key turn and the main relay energizes the proper five ports. Have 12V to ignition control and coil pack, but no pulse. Noid light will not come on at any time at injector 1. Does this sound like failed ECU? Thanks, Matt -
Hello all, I have a 2002 WRX and I don't know how i could find out if my ecu is the problem. To start from the beginning, I was trying to find the output of my ECU that could turn it from automatic to manual in the hope of getting rid of p1596 error (automatic tranny diagnosis input signal high input). I made the mistake of of removing the ECU from the bolts that i now know that ground the ECU. I tried cutting one wire (which i found out that was for the knock sensor.. wrong electrical diagram) After i cut that wire, maybe 30 seconds later the car wouldn't start anymore. After re soldering the wire, i found that the fuel pump wasn't priming. After troubleshooting everything possible with the fuel pump, i replaced it thinking that was my issue. It didn't. Still wouldn't prime. I have tested all the wiring from the fuse all the way to fuel controller. All is good. I then thought to myself i will just bypass the whole line and wired 12 volt directly to the fuel pump to run it continuously to see if i could get the car started. With the pump running and car turning over, i get no start now. I assume that if the fuel pump is working now at full blast, will it drown the engine and prevent it from stopping? How do i know if i blew the ECU? thanks to anyone that can help me. -
I might have fried the ECU on my 2002 WRX. Wondering two things: 1 - which ECU's are interchangeable. 2003 Impreza? Found a cheap ECU in scrap yard. Turbo car vs non make a difference? I know the tranny doesn't make any. 2 - Trying to find the right fuse/ fuses? to the ECU. Just in case the problem is that simple. anybody know any systems that are run by the ECU that I could test to see if they work with the key on? Thank you all... always great help! 1000 heads are better than one..
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Hello all, I have been looking for this answer for a long time all over the place. I have a 2002 WRX manual. It was originally an automatic when produced, the previous owner got it switched to manual. The thing is I'm pretty sure the wire to tell the ECU it's a manual instead of automatic hasn't been put. I know the ECU is the same. I've looked everywhere on how to do this. Anybody have experience on this? I keep getting the error code P1596 caused by this I'm pretty sure. Thanks in advance.
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Hello, I have a 1992 Legacy Wagon, EJ22, AWD. A few days ago the motor would not fire up and has not fired up since. The wagon has not had any motor work done to it for over 3 years. It ran and drove great over these past 3 years. The wagon has never been in an accident. The timming belt was replaced 3 years ago. What I've checked: -Fuses (both under the hood and Under the dash) -Ran the codes (24, 11, 13) -Inspected crankshaft position sensor. Tested sensor and found it to be working and within spec. -Inspected camshaft position sensor. Tested sensor and found it to be working and within spec. -Swapped out both sensors with known working ones just to be sure - no change in problem. ALSO did this test - disconnected crank sensor, connected cam sensor, sprayed fuel into intake, turned over motor, no run - disconnected cam sensor, connected crank sensor, sprayed fuel, turned over motor, no run. - connected both sensors, sprayed fuel, turned motor over - runs like a frickin champ. *** Cant test the Air Control Valve (code 24) because the Haynes manual does not have that part listed in the book. -Inspected Coil, All plugs are getting spark and sparking properly when the motor is turned over. -Inspected Fuel Filter. Good volume of fuel flows through filter. -Fuel Pump. I did not have the proper gauge to test fuel pressure, so I replaced the fuel pump with a brand new pump. Fuel filter sock is new to. -Tested fuel injectors, all 4 have proper ohm reading. What I've discovered is the fuel injectors are not pulsing. -I tested each electrical lead and found that there is no power getting to any of the injectors. When I switch the key on, I should have 12V. I dont know what else to look at. Any suggestions? Thanks. -
Hey guys, first of all I need to confess: I don't really own a complete Subaru (sorry) ... Last year, we swapped a Subaru EJ25 SOHC engine from a 2000 Legacy (156 hp) into our 1973 VW Beetle. We also installed the stock ECU and all the necessary parts from the original wiring harness. Combined with a 5-speed manual gearbox, a lighter flywheel and a custom exhaust system, the car produced 187 whp on the dyno. It is really fun to drive and nobody even remotely expects this kind of power in an old VW Beetle... However, the ECU constantly reports error code 38 "Engine torque control" or "Torque permission signal". When I checked the ECU with OBD2, I found values for "Engine Torque Request", "Torque permission signal" and some more stuff that leads to the conclusion that the ECU is expecting to have a Subaru automatic transmission with the corresponding TCU connected. I bought another ECU that was confirmed to be out of a car with manual transmission, but after installing it, I got exactly the same behavior and the same error codes as before. So there are two options: 1. Someone screwed me over and the new ECU is again out of car with automatic transmission 2. The ECUs are actually the same for AT and MT and the transmission mode is set somewhere else... For the older engines 1996-1999, I found some information about a "AT/MT identification pin" on the wiring harness, which defines whether the ECU should behave like AT or MT. Does anybody know, where to find that pin on my ECU (2000 Legacy, EJ25 SOHC 156hp) or if it even exists? I checked multiple websites for ecu pin-outs or wiring information, including this forum and also this one: https://hackedecu.com/ultimate_subaru_pinout ... but I did not really find anything useful for the 2000 Legacy... best, Chris
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I PICKED UP A 1986 GL 10 WAGON WITH A BAD ENGINE,FOUND ANOTHER ENGINE,ALL HOOK UP,ECU IS GIVING CODE 12,TROUBLE SHOOT,THERE IS POWER TO ECM,WHEN CRANKED.ALSO INJECTORS NOT GETTING POWER,TRIED ANOTHER ECM SAME THING.DO I HAVE 2 BAD ECMS OR IS THERE SOMETHIG CAUESING THE ECM TO FAIL.ECS LIGHT IS ON.I DON'T WANT TO TRY OTHER ECM.AND HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM,ANYBODY RUN INTO THIS PROBLEM,THANKS ED
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Hello, First post on this Forum! It has been killing me on my 1997 Subaru outback to get the pin connections out of the baby blue B84 connector. I am trying to ground out Pin #81 to remove the CEL for the egr valve. The previous owner swapped the 2.5 for a 2.2. They changed the original automatic transmission to a 5 speed, so I am getting the CEL for the EGR because originally the car had a EGR valve but the new 2.2 does not have an EGR. So after hours of research I found if you ground out Pin 81 at the ECU it will tell the ECU that the car is a manual and does not require an EGR. Here in lies the problem, I for the life of me can not get the pins to release to move them! Could some one please let me know the secret to releasing the pins! I have stuck tiny screwdrivers in every hole and cant get one to release, there is not wire retainers to release. If you look at the pic below you can see what connector I am trying to work with. Thanks! connector.pdf -
Hi there, So I just bought a high mileage 1990 subaru legacy with the 2.2l and auto trans. I went into it knowing there were some issues to resolve, those being primarily leaking valve covers and some throttle body issues. While talking to the seller he told me that the alternator had recently gone bad and that he had replaced it with a junkyard one. He assured me he'd had it tested and it tested out well. I drove the vehicle a few days to figure out some of it's quirks before I dove into the project. After a thorough cleaning of the engine bay I drove about five miles, noticing some serious electrical malfunctions with the gauges and the headlights dimming, and eventually the car died from a lack of electrical power. Obviously, I jumped at the alternator. Pulled it and the battery out. Took the battery to work (I work at a Chevrolet dealership) for a full charge and a diagnostic to make sure that it was not in fact the problem. Battery tested great, so I charged it fully and put it back in the car. Next came the alternator. Again, took it down, got it bench tested and it too tested out fine. So I came home, installed everything again, hit the key and it starts right up. I hopped in to take it for a test drive and made it maybe 100 yards down the road before the whole vehicle just shuts off like someone hit an on/off switch. The only time I've ever had electrical failure to that extent is when the battery cables aren't properly hooked up, so I checked everything out and it's all hooked up fine. Tried to jump it with my Jeep and the motor still wouldn't turn over. So like I said, I'm a newbie to the Subaru world, so I was wondering if there's some engine ground that may have come loose that wasn't readily apparent or if there might be a fuse or relay that would cause these symptoms. It's very clearly all of a sudden not getting power to the starter and I can't figure out why. Any help is appreciated. -
Hey guys. So I'm planning on doing an ej swap into my ea wagon this summer, and although I was planning on using an ej22, I have easy access to two ej25s. One is a SOHC with an incomplete harness, don't know what it came out of or what year it is. The other is a DOHC sitting in a wrecked 97 legacy, complete. From what I understand, the SOHC is the more desirable of the two. So I'm wondering if i can use the wiring and ecu from the DOHC on the SOHC? Is there anything else I would have to swap to make it work? I've seen people ask similar questions, but couldn't find any answers for my situation, so any help is appreciated. Thanks.
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I swapped a 97(?) JDM 2.5L in for a 99 2.5L recently. The 99 was driven about 60 miles with no water in it due to a blown hose, nuf said, it wasn't me. I installed the "new" older 2.5 with new timing belt blah blah blah. Timing set up nicely. Even though the JDM was injected, we transferred the inake and other appropriate items to the "new" block including drilling and tappping out the EGR hole in the head. I don't want to go into the 4 bolt vs 8 bolt "bell housing" issue as it doesn't seem to be an issue. Where my problem is at, is that I can get spark to the cylinders #1 and #2 but get no spark to #3 and #4. The coil(s) check out, the ignitor checks out and there doesn't seem to be a signal from the ECU to fire the #3/#4 ignitor circuit. I have checked the wiring between the ECU and the Ignitor and it appears OK. The connector at the ECU is clean and undamaged. So I assumed it was the ECU as I have read that it is the main source of "no start" conditions. I put in a used ECU. I got exactly the same deal, no signal to #3/#4 circuit in the ignitor. I find it hard to believe that a second (albeit used) ECU would have the same problem ........ or does it? What would cause the ECU to send signals to fire the #1/#2 circuit but not the #3/#4? I am baffled but it is probably something simple. Any help? I am new to this site and this is my first request. As far as my background. I have degrees in Electronics and Mechanical Engineering so I am no ametuer at troubleshooting and I am pretty much down to earth in that degrees don't mean spit sometimes. I usually find the simple things are the ones that trip us up. -
I'm new to the Subaru as well as boosted arena so please bear with my seemingly naive questions. Engine: 1998 WRX STI Version V RA 2.0L EJ207 (Completely stock internals) ECU: 6S Turbo: Stock VF28 Exhaust: 3'' Turboback 5zigen exhaust. I currently have an aftermarket MBC (Halman) installed running approximately 10 psi of boost (its a daily driven car). 1. Are there any issues running such low boost? Research suggests that these engines ran 17-18psi stock. 2. Wastegate pressure (if I remember correctly) is circa 7-9psi. I don't quite understand how I can reconnect the OEM Boost Solenoid, I'll appreciate if anyone can supply me with some images of an engine bay and the appropriate connections etc. Effectively then, will adjusting the MBC to run the desired 18psi be equivalent to reconnecting the OEM Boost Solenoid? IMO reconnecting the OEM solenoid seems safer as proper adjustments can be accurately made by the ECU. I recently installed an AEM Wideband and A/F ratio at idle was averaged to be 14.7±0.2 and 10.0 at WOT. The WOT A/F ratio seems to be quite rich which prompted my question regarding running LOWER than stock boost pressures and its effect on the ability of the ECU to compensate effectively. Prompt replies and any knowledgeable insight will be hugely appreciated. Thanks in advance!
