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Showing results for tags 'EGR'.
Found 21 results
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So I have replaced my whole EGR system. Replaced EVERY line, EGR, Solenoids, EVERYTHING. All seems to be functioning fine, running good, but still bad gas mileage. The Check engine light goes off for about 4 or 5 days then turns back on with the same EGR code. Is the next step new exhaust system? The exhaust has 238,000 miles on it, but the motor only has 50,000 on it. I'm stumped. Could it be a bad computer since I used the original one when I replaced the motor, or do you all think maybe the exhaust is just old and full of crud? Any info and or advise would be awesome. Thanks.. -
So I have replaced my whole EGR system. Replaced EVERY line, EGR, Solenoids, EVERYTHING. All seems to be functioning fine, running good, but still bad gas mileage. The Check engine light goes off for about 4 or 5 days then turns back on with the same EGR code. Is the next step new exhaust system? The exhaust has 238,000 miles on it, but the motor only has 50,000 on it. I'm stumped. Could it be a bad computer since I used the original one when I replaced the motor, or do you all think maybe the exhaust is just old and full of crud? Any info and or advise would be awesome. Thanks..
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Hello, The car I recently purchased has 96,000 on it. 2006 Legacy has a small issue that I have noticed. When I am pull up to a traffic light the engine rpm's drop down to the point I think it may want to stall. This is more prevalent when the A/C is on, but it still does it a little less when it is off. I have read that the IAC (Idle Control Valve) sometimes get clogged/restricted a little. Can the EGR also cause this? Thanks for any help -
Hell folks, long time lurker first time poster. Having a heck of a bad week with my much loved outback (2004, 2.5l, Canadian). To keep things clear I will stat at the beginning... Just before Christmas, the wagon all of a sudden started to stall in neutral, or when I would press the clutch, this seemed to happen randomly when the car was warmed up. The problem went away for about ten days, only to reappear with a vengeance. (Check engine also appeared) so we bit the bullet and took it to a local garage. They said that there were misfire codes and changed the plugs/wires/coils, later in the day they called back and informed me that the problem was still there and that everything associated with the intake was heavily carbonized. So they did and injector cleaning,and cleaned all of the sensors. After that the problem was still present, they said the egr valve was too carbonized and beyond cleaning. I retrieved the car from them, deciding to find a replacement egr on my own. After removing and cleaning the egr myself (10 min job, was nice and springy after) the car seemed to work perfectly, leading me to believe we had been fleeced... The next day, leaving the city, everything was fine, until the car warmed up. Now my problem is: around 1-2000 rpm the car kicks and bucks like crazy, once past 2000 rpm the car works fine but a little jerky when giving gas, i re-cleaned the egr thinking maybe it needed further cleaning. After testing the car again today, same problem, after the engine is good and warm, it struggles and bucks when driving around in first and second gear till you are past 2000 rpm. After getting a big bill from a garage that didn't fix my problem I am dreading dropping more money at this than I have to. Anyone else have any similar experiences? Or can help me figure out what is going on? Thx in advance -
Hello. I bought a '97 legacy L automatic car. Not knowing that aperently the manual cars are lacking the EGR system. So needless to say I have a CEL I need to make the auto ecu communicate with the manual motor. How can I get the car to work without EGR? First pic is my car second I found online of what it should look like
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Greetings, I did a little work on the 1985 BRAT this weekend. I finally got rid of that pesky EGR valve warning light. Following the advice of others on this forum I learned that the light comes on every 60,000 miles irrespective of EGR status. As wikipidia states, the function of EGR is to reduce emissions: The light comes on to remind you to remove the EGR valve and perform a cleaning procedure that is described in the service manual. Some folks perform this, some ignore it, and some install a delete kit that looks like this: Which ever way you choose to go, this will not reset the light. To do this you must get up under the dash and swap a single electrical connection (at 60k) from Blue to blue to Blue to Green. At 120k you reverse the swap back to Blue to Blue. I performed the swap this weekend and spent a good amount of time under the dash looking at the rats nest to find the appropriate connections. Below are some photos to document the procedure so as to help others. First take the panel off below the steering wheel, to reveal the wiring. The wires in question will be found behind the fuse box area. See the Blue connector behind the fuse box in this photo for the actual location: Once you find this, unplug the cable and locate a similar looking plug in the opposite color. Here is a look at all three plugs. You may need to do some fidgeting to provide enough slack to make the connection. Here is what the final connection looks like: One word of caution. by spending so much time crawling under the dash, I managed to break my step assembly trim component (the plastic thing that says subaru next to the seat). This was a major bummer. Take precautions not to put too much weight on this piece. Cheers, Chris -
Backstory: We purchased a 1995 Impreza L. It was originally equipped with an EJ18, but has an EJ22. It has run like crap the entire time and recently emptied the oil, due to a 0.45 cal hole in the oil pan. We have removed the engine and cracked the case for the rebuild. I found that the engine came from a 1995 Legacy Wagon 4EAT. I have several issues that I want to address. 1. There are vacuum lines disconnected and plugged. From experience, these are crucial to the computer deciding how the engine runs. I believe it has the original EJ22 intake manifold. I need help here. 2. Since this engine was in an AT, the MT requires the Timing belt guide plate. Which part is appropriate for this. Note: the timing keeps slipping. 3. Since I am replacing the wear components in the engine, what are the original specs on the crank, rods and cylinders? 4. Is there a solitary kit or will I need to piece together a kit. I have found some kits, but they are missing components that I need or have components I don't need. 5. What would be the proper vacuum hose routing, given this configuration? 6. Any other information that you can think of... Does anyone have information on these issues or know of a source where they have already been answered? This engine is unusual, when compared to others. This is a daddy/daughter project. I have concerns, because I am giving this car to my her and hope that it will carry her for the next 20 years. Thanks, -
Just finished timing belts, water pump, pulleys, new oil seals, brand new vacuum lines, all new bosch ignition, pcv valve, pcv hoses, karropak gaskets on throttle, everything's tightened down!and sealed up, cooling system bled, new thermostat, etc... I checked and got codes 11, 12, 13, 34 & 35. Only had the car about a week, but no engine light before timing belt. Curious about the possibility this is an error as the car runs awesome, idles a little high though (1000-1100 rpms)
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I was tuning up my 95 Legacy yesterday with cleaning/testing throttle body & Position Sensor, PCV, MAF, etc. Started looking for my EGR valve to take a whack at but could not find it. Checked the Chiltons manual & tells/shows where it "should" be also says that testing the EGR is done by OnBoardDiagnostics & I have OBDII so wouldnt it be somewhere Checked online for pictures and where the EGR Pipe should be is crimped off. What is the meaning of this? Im boggled. -
HERE IS WHAT HAPPENED. Yesterday, I discovered the green connector for CEL testing has been plugged in forever. i unplugged it, and proceeded to do what I know, in order to read the check engine light. The oxygen monitor showed codes 21(coolant temp sensor), 24(idle air control valve or circuit) and 34(EGR solenoid or circuit). It got dark, so I went inside and proceeded to look online for a replacement IACV gasket, so I can clean it. I also looked at an EGR solenoid and planned on cleaning the EGR today. When I went to start my car this morning, it fired but died immediately, and I knew something was wrong. One more start and die, and without pumping the throttle or having it wide open, the car just cranked and didnt fire. What the heck? So I read the codes again, and nothing had changed. As far as I know the only thing I did was make a red light blink, so i'm a little confused. Is it possible that the car is acting up because the ECU "didnt know" about the bad egr and iacv until i put it in test mode? before having gone inside last night i started the car, and it RAN FINE. Again, what the heck? Does anyone have any ideas? car has always had idle issues, and at one point an ignition coil that arced to the negative ground. ask me questions and i will answer, but so far, thats what i got. Thank you guys in advance. -walker
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hello all, new here just got an 88 dl ea82 had blown head gasket and would barely run. I took it apart and checked everything, resealed it and got it running good. had check engine light on, codes 24,35,34 replaced purge cntl solenoid fixed the 35, found broken wire in harness for the code 24. Egr sol was not holding vac, replaced it with solenoid that held... still code 34? I pulled some diag trees from alldata and one of the first steps is to look for voltage at egr solenoid switching from 5v to 0v every 1.5 sec with green test connectors connected and key on. then if this does happen it goes straight to replace computer. and what do ya know that's what I get. Ive been working at shops for 20 years and whenever a diag tree leads to replace pcm in the first few lines it almost never fixes the prob. just thought id get some more ideas, never hurts. the clear codes green and clear connectors are under the hood. I may try to clear the codes then disconnect the battery tomorrow, just to make sure.
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Hello everyone. I am looking to buy the air injection tubing (spider) for my 78' BRAT. When I took my motor out I discovered that one of the flares had broken off. I have a feeling it will be tough to re-flare the tube due to space for the compression fitting. Please let me know if you have one you are willing to part with or if you know anyone that has one. Thank you! -
I recently purchased an 89 GL, and during this first month of owning it, it has always started without a problem, but I just changed the distributor cap, and now the car will not start. I changed the cap because the wire from the coil to the cap had become corroded to the point of being stuck inside and was causing the car to shut off at random times, once or twice a day. So after installing the new cap and wire, I checked and made sure that I have spark at every plug and I do. Then I checked the ignition timing, (flywheel at TDC and piston in #1 is at its highest point, then at 20degrees advanced, the rotor is under the #1 position of the distributor cap. Then to double check the firing order I made sure that the piston of each cylinder was at its highest point at the same time that the rotor was in the right position and it turned out that I had the firing order wrong, so I corrected it, but it still will not start. Then lastly, just in case the previous owner had advanced all the wires ahead a position on the cap, I tried that and it still will not start. I checked the trouble codes and it gives me a #34... 'EGR Solenoid or Circuit', but I somehow doubt that this would cause a no start or just happen to cause it the minute I changed the cap, unless it has something to do with me trying to start it with the firing order wrong. Any help of insight on where I should head next with this would be greatly appreciated.
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Does anyone have any good pics of the intake manifold where the EGR valve bolts on? Specifically the port that runs at an angle towards the flanged tube that goes between the manifold and the passenger side head.
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I need a little help. I have a 92 4wd Loyale Wagon that I need to smog in. Runs great but the CEL is on. Just drove 850 miles and got an average of 34mpg. Hooked the green test cables up on the driver's side in the engine bay and shows a code 34. I jumped the cables at the EGR solenoid, as described in this forum along with disconnecting the battery to clear the codes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/103456-cel-34-and-35-1990-loyale/?p=1182243 No change, the CEL is still on. Does this mean the ECU is bad?
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Here are the pics showing how my EGR/ASV system was plugged/modified, whatever you want to call it. First is a picture of the entire engine. Look below to where the exhaust would come out. There is a little pipe about the size of a quarter in diameter coming towards the camera, it's been cut and welded shut. The next picture is of the same pipe, just on the other side of the engine, the driver side. Same thing. I was told these pipes are part of the ASV system by someone on a forum here. My mechanic said EGR.. Wouldn't these pipes normally lead up to the EGR valve somehow so it can redirect exhaust to the intake? On the first pic, see the bolt directly above the pipe I'm talking about. What engine port is this. There is just a bolt instead whatever went here. A sensor perhaps? The third picture is a closer image of this same bolt/port. It is right by the passenger-side rear spark plug. The next (fourth) picture shows the EGR valve close up. As you can see, the (intake?) hose for the valve just has a bolt shoved in it. The fifth picture is just a view from a little farther away so you can see where the valve is.. The sixth pic is of the EGR valve, looking from the passenger side. This shows another engine port on the intake manifold where a bolt has just been shoved in. What is this port for?? The horrible part is that I don't know if these "bolts" can be easily removed. They look like they were welded in.. One last question, the last (seventh) pic shows the passenger side of the engine from the front view. There are tons of attachment points for bolts and what not on this side. What are they meant for?
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So I just had my engine pulled out of my '83 Brat to replace the rear-main seal. Turns out it didn't even have a rear-main seal. Anyways I also found out that the entire EGR system has been plugged. The EA81 in this car is not original so I was wondering if Brats had an EGR system in 1983. If they did, then my engine has been swapped illegally and won't pass inspection; however, if they didn't, then plugging up the EGR system makes sense and is legal. I need to know fast, so any information would be greatly appreciated!
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In the works of finishing swapping the EA82 intake on an EA81 Brat. The intake came with the EGR deleted (a nice plate with gasket covering it). What are the issues with deleting it? The issue is also the EGR pipe isn't exactly lining up, its sitting a bit higher. Should we just get a cap and cap off the EGR pipe? I did attempt to search but seeing as EGR is too short of a word to search for I did not get much. If anyone has an useful links that would be awesome.
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Recently purchase a JDM EJ25D on ebay. I've made the necessary intake manifold swap, and have also discovered that there are differences in the water pump, timing covers, and A/C mounting bracket. Only one thing (right now) is holding up putting the motor back into the car. The EGR pip rises from rear of the head on the drivers side up to the EGR valve on the intake manifold. The JDM has the port, and it is tapped with the same thread as the USDM head, but the bottom of the hole is different. Here is an image of the JDM port: And here is the same port on the USDM head: As you can see, the bottom of the port on the JDM head has a tiny hole in the center, while on the USDM head, the port is wide open. I don't know whether this difference is due to the market, or the model year, but I would like to know if I can open up the bottom of the port on the JDM engine. If so, how should it be done? I have the exhaust removed from the engine right now, so i can look up through the exhaust port and see that pinhole. Would it be better to drill it out, or try tapping it out with a punch? Any help will be much appreciated! Thanks in advance. -
86 Brat EA82 intake replacment EGR Problems
NTR posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Hello All, I am posting in search of some help. I am currently helping a friend work on his 86 brat. Due to other issues and finding a new carb off a EA82 , we are replacing the intake and carb with that from a EA82. We removed the intake with no problem but the EGR piping that goes from the top of the block into the intake will not come unscrewed from the block. We have tried using a torch to heat it up and also penetrating spray. There also seems to be a case of 17mm being slightly big and 16mm being too small. This is the pipe we are doing with. I should note we do not particularly care about reconnecting the EGR as we also were able to get a very nicely machined block off for it from the EA82 intake. But the pipe still will pose an issue. Does anyone have a secret for taking this off or possibly going another route?
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Does anyone know what is required to get the EGR to pass and be ready? I've heard 3 different things one which is driving the car 50 MPH for 3 min the coasting down to I think 30 or 40 MPH then back up to 50 MPH for 15 min then it should be be ready.
