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So… I have a 2nd gen brat from ‘85: ej22 swapped (‘95 Impreza outback donor) with a 6” lift and off-road tires. After years of wrenching on it (mixed with other years of being too busy with life/work and abandoning it for extended periods of time), it’s finally purring! It’s hella fun to rally, and obviously there have been countless gremlins along the way, but they’ve all mostly been slayed. Fortunate that I have a rollover parts brat with a bed full of extra everything and hard to find trim and body panels (along with two other stock brats I sold off/lost in the divorce after scavenging the best off all of them) Anyway, I’m now onto the trim and details… including a new paint job! I am picturing a homage to the Hot Wheels brats that have turned up in various forms over the decades. What can I say — I’m far away from stock and this is meant as a purely fun ride. Hoping you’re all down to share your opinion: which of the Hot Wheels Brat versions would you like to see passing you on the backroads? I have my favorites but will keep them to myself for now. I want to hear yours! Here’s a doc with pics uploaded of every version I could find: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-xL6xhCNcrKamYIuPPCo7O7O6Nv2713fgecJIMHyBK0/edit Please weigh in with a comment!

hey! i’m finishing my ea to ej swap and wondering if anyone has recommended an aftermarket baffled fuel tank that fits the gl wagon? i replaced the fuel pump & lines and i’m worried that the more powerful pump will cavitate with a 1/2 empty tank, especially uphill. thoughts? thanks, groucho

Ok so some back story, I have searched the webs and many forums for this problem, I have a 1988 subaru gl with a ej22 phase 2 engine in it from a 99 impreza. I then turbo'd it and it runs fantastic at 8 pounds of boost, UNTIL, limp mode happens. Now I have gotten a dash cluster which I think is compatible but it's from an 87 DL auto, which i thought had the reed switch thing I needed for the impreza's ecu to be happy, apparently not. So my question is what am I doing wrong, is the cluster not compatible or is it simply im not wiring it right, because a lot of people say to use the cruise control, but i have no longer have the cruise control and/or wiring thinking I wasn't going to use an oem style speedo. Please help, even though it's probably been answered many times

Hi there folks! Got CEL codes 42 and 33 pulling on my good old 1993 legacy. In reference to the 33, the speedometer stopped functioning. I have pulled the transmission side of the cable and the tab is present and appears to spin well. Wondering if there is any other troubleshooting I should do before pulling the gauge cluster out of the dash to see if that side still spins. If the cable is not the issue do I need to replace the cluster or is there a way to repair the speedo itself? The salvage yards around me are pretty sparse for the older models. If it is the cable it appears that replacements are no longer avaliable. What would yall advise I do at that point? In reference to code 42 the engine started to idle significantly higher then usual recently. Then started throwing 42. The odd part is when I run the car in test mode (green connectors under the dash attached) it only shows the codes as running codes and not in memory and the car idles perfectly in that mode. I suspect the IAC has gone bad, and I do have a replacement that I can put in there that i know is good. But I wanted to see if there was any specific troubleshooting steps I should take before swapping it out? For reference I installed purchased and installed a rebuild just over 800 miles ago and the car has been running very well up until the last 2 days. It did, however, really struggle to pass colorado emissions standards. Ended up adding an additional cat to get it to pass. At that point the high idle was not present, neither was code 42 or 33 and the speedo was functioning just fine. Please forgive me in advance as I am limited thus far in my knowledge and want to learn more. I love my subarus and I love working on them. I've got a fair bit of knowledge, but I would not consider myself an expert by any means. Thanks in advance for your guidance.

I have a Vanagon with a early 90's EJ22. I am getting error code 14-17 which is Fuel injector inoperative (Abnormal signal emitted from monitor circuit) . Can someone tell me how to fix this? Many thanks.

This is where my build currently sits, figured I'd share it. It's a 1967 Beetle dropped on a 1998 Subaru Impreza NA 2.2 chassis. I had the shorten the pan about 5 inches and the suspension is a bit wide in the rear. There were a handful of routes I could have take th avoid that like cutting the body in half or lowering the shock towers and putting shorter shocks in, but I want the beetle to have as many off the shelf parts as possible so if something breaks I can easily find it. The front end is not staying like that, I'm going with a full fiberglass front but I'm not going to touch all that until I have the back sorted. The build is also getting uploaded on youtube if you want to follow along:

I have 2 (two) 1997 Legacy wagons. EJ22 5MT Normally aspirated. Both took the beating a career pizza delivery guy could dish and now one at ~270,000 miles; each has a HG leak. I will soon commence the HG replacement and clutch on one. I am looking for several pieces of advice, tips, tricks and whatever input persons with experience may have... HG thickness/brand -- I see MLS in varying thicknesses from 0.040" to 0.088" available from Cometic, Six Star and Mahle. Clutch kits -- plates, flywheels brands seem to be about the same from various suppliers with the throw bearing being a crucial subaru component. Engine Hoist/ mount-- Since I will be replacing the clutch as well obviously pulling the engine is essential and makes HG replacement easier. Can I get by with a rope pulley system from the garage rafters lowered onto brick/wood support (I don't really want to be working on the engine on the ground) or should I rent/purchase engine hoist and mount? Thanks in advance- John

Hey! This is my first post here so I'm sorry if it's poorly written / totally in the wrong place. I accidentally bought a 1999 Impreza OBS with a spun rod bearing in the engine a few months ago. It started showing a couple of weeks ago (major hesitation on acceleration) and I brought it in to the mechanic, only to confirm that that engine was about done without a rebuild. I bought the car with a cracked radiator from another college student so I'm pretty sure it was badly overheated and I don't think it's worth it to do a rebuild anyway :/. MY QUESTION: Has anyone successfully swapped a JDM EJ203 in the place of an EJ22 in the OBS? I can't find any decent EJ22's available online, and I know that the 203's are pretty cheap. Whenever I try to look it up, I really only find things about swapping out an EJ25 from the old legacy outbacks. Any help would be appreciated!

I have an 82 brat. Originally I was going to swap the carb to fuel injected. I've done it and drove it round the block a few times. But now it won't start. Pretty sure its trouble with the disty. I have decided to scrap that. I just picked up a 90 legacy with 160000 on it for 400 bucks. It runs and drives fine but overheats I need to change the water pump. My goal is to strip the legacy of parts to swap into my brat. My brat will soon have a 4 inch lift kit. I would like to use a 5spd Dr in this swap, but I keep getting conflicting thoughts on this. I can get the adapter plate no problem. Questions: 1. What will I need to do, other than the adapter plate, to make the 5SPD DR work in the brat with the ej22. 2. How can I use the powersteering from the EJ. 3. What do I need to do to retain the AC from the EJ. The brat is ready equipped for ac but it was not installed. I know these things have been gone over and over. I have the write up for the EJ swap from @numbchux but I need more info and I want to help get updated info out there When I have all the parts together and I begin this process. I will be doing a write up and also possibly make a YouTube series on this process from start to finish. So any help would be appreciated so we can get the info out to people who are interested in doing this .

HOW DO I DELETE A THREAD THAT I'VE STARTED?

Ok, I have read many forums with many conflicting replies with the following pursuit. A Ej25 block with EJ22 heads for higher compression. The following are my perameters of the build that I hope you guys can help me with. 1). I have limited room for this build. This is not going into subaru, so I have a maximum engine width to be 28 1/2", rocker cover to rocker cover. so I believe I will need phase 1 heads to do this. 2). I would like it to be SOHC. not DOHC not enough room and heavier. 3). It must be NA, so no forced induction of any kind please. 4). I would like it use existing available parts from donor. 5). Which ECU for up to 6500rpm? 6). Which head gaskets and will I need? And will I need to port the combustion chamber to match the cylinders? 7). Any other info that would help? 8). What would the estimated compression come to? What is the best way to start this project and with what phases,1 or 2 and years of these heads and blocks I would like the outcome to be around 185 crank hp or more if possible. And be a more mid range rpm. I don't require a high revving motor.

Hey team, I recently changed my oil and redid wiring for my crank angle sensor my car is performing and idling better than it was before, but it periodically has a rougher idle (more vibrations when idling) - usually, it is remedied by flipping the car into neutral and then back into drive which I find really odd. Once in a while, the idle goes a tad lower but usually, it's around the 700-800 rpm mark which is good. any ideas what could be causing this? maybe a dirty IAC? maybe spark plugs/spark plug wires? I'm at a loss!! Thanks in advance! Edit - My car is a 1991 Subaru liberty/legacy with 161'000km on the clock (100'040 miles)

So I have a 1996 Legacy Outback, and it definitely needs to go lower. I have not seen a specific set of coilovers or springs made, probably because the rear load is different. any points in the right direction would be awesome!

Question for all you out there with the Subaru EJ22. I have one out of a 1995 Legacy installed in a 1999 Forester...yes it wasn’t easy but it worked. My question is i have installed new head gaskets, valve stem seals and rear main seal. The rings looked good and my cylinder walls didn’t have gouges. The engine runs strong but I notice that it smokes blue smoke on every cold start. After about a mile of driving it goes away. With no external oils leaks I’m burning about a qt of oil every tank of gas. Oil looks good. Could this just be PCV valve? Or do I have rings that are glazed? Not looking at rebuilding it again. If the PCV do you recommend a catch can oil separator? Or better system than the stock 95 setup?

Hey guys, I have my 85 FrankinSoob GL with the 2.2L swap. I was wondering if anyone has installed UEL headers on their 2.2 swap? I want to give my ol GL that "Subaru rumble", but I'm unsure if the pipes would fit with the skip plate. But I don't really want to loose the skid plate. Has anyone done this with theirs, and if so, how dude the fit? Thanks, Daniel

For all of those out there contemplating an EJ conversion, this is one of the reasons why buying a donor vehicle can be easier - especially for the first timer. But with that said, this is how I've gone about it twice now - building a conversion from parts of several cars - why? Mainly because I've been given parts from some good mates which only require me to get the main bits like the engine and some supporting pieces that are needed for all conversions. Space constraints of renting can be prohibitive to having a donor vehicle on the property too. So this is how I "bench" test my engine and cutdown loom (plus it's good fun). Loom was cut down last week and the test done this weekend gone. Everything wiring wise checks out. Engine wise I have a code 35 (purge control solenoid valve) and no knocking on start up Now it'll get some preventative maintenance such as head gaskets while it remains out of the vehicle. https://youtu.be/vBXrmIzWiZY I reckon @sparkyboy will wet his pants at this and I kind of hope a few more of you will too (and be inspired to do your own conversions!). I've since fitted a radiator and run it for a longer period of time. I'm hoping to do this again later in the week, not that I have to, but I would like to see the light for the fan trigger to come on... This will end up in my Brumby once both engine and vehicle are ready. Cheers Bennie

I thought it time to share my full L series build - I had a thread in the welcome forum, but since writing this out recently I thought it a good time to move over here. Some of you will already know this vehicle... This is the short version I purchased Ruby Scoo from Yackandandah, VIC, Australia (google it!) in 2004 or 2005 for $500. What we didn't know was that the engine was toast - over heated to the point that one cylinder was cracked about halfway down. After some research I found that the EA82 engine came in EFI format, so went with one of these and had a steep learning curve into the operations of EFI systems. Pick a part became my best friend here! Problem was I lived over 1 hour away. After a year in the shed she was ready for rego. This is me learning some 4wd'n with a mate near Kangaroo Flat, Bendigo: From here I had a few mods done - welded rear diff. This was a good and bad mod as it gave the vehicle awesome point and shoot abilities but with the lack of lift I managed some damage to the underside of the body, I inverted my floor pans and didn't realise this for some time. In 2007 I roadtripped to WA with my brother with a "fresh" 9 month old rebuild that was going really well: SA/WA boarder: Perth: Hit a new milestone while I was there: And we had some fun too: On the way home we (read: my brother!) blew the side out of the plastic radiator end tank on a hot day drive home. We were stuck in Tintanara and were trucked home the next day. After sorting a temporary radiator it turned out that the engine was severely cooked. For 18 months I put up with a jerry-rigged carb engine over the MPFI wiring. It got me around while I sorted all the bits for my EJ22 conversion - again pick a part played a huge role in this conversion - this time I got all the bits I needed the before getting into the conversion. Cutting down the wiring was another steep learning curve and in hindsight quite easy to do, just need to know what you actually need and go from there. I didn't do the HG's on the EJ as I bench tested the engine and was happy with how it operated. When pulled from the yard it had 127xxxkms on the clock. Turned out the clutch was completely fried. All oil seals were replaced, cam belt replaced and I should have replaced the water pump - did it about a week after the conversion hit the road. Easiest way to do the Engine and gearbox - out from under: I cased an L series gearbox in a set of EJ front cases to avoid an adaptor plate and an EA clutch. This conversion is all EJ clutch and bolts straight up without issues: The initial test was a bit of fun in the paddock - I should've put the bonnet on though, it wasn't fun to clean! All fits in like it should be there. The L series should've come with the EJ from the factory, it's a great combination! Out at Robe, SA: After a chance purchase of a lifted L series, in one weekend the swap was done and Ruby Scoo grew to this: More fun, Otways, VIC: A few years down the track and a lot of searching I managed to track down a set of the infamous Scorpion 14 inch rims, these ones with the awesome general all rounder Wild Conqueror Super Trippers (can't get them anymore ): Robe, SA: Wyperfeld NP, VIC: Lerderderg SF, VIC: After two seasons at Mt Hotham and a 4wd'n trip with a "rally section" on the Dinner Plain Track south of the township I got Ruby Scoo airborne unintentionally. Not realising for some time but I did some extensive damage to the suspension mount on the LHS. Not ready to part with her I stripped her out and went to work between other things: While everything was reinstalled I added power windows, mirrors and central locking. That took a pot load more time than I anticipated and blew out the build time. I would say this took me 6 months over the summer period to sort out and get back on the road. Return to the road: Getting back into the thick of it: Mt Cole: Getting out in the High Country with the Subaru Club of Qld (offroad club, can't remember their official title) - most of these guys are online mates from ausubi: Basalt Knob South Tk before it was switchbacked: Back at Mt Hotham for another visit (Love this place!) New "trick" gearbox - L series AWD locking centre diff, front OBX (cheap!) LSD, 1.59:1 low range, low range oil feeders and 4.111:1 diff ratio (old box 3.7:1 stock ratio): Diff locking mechanism: This was an awesome mod - the diff ratio change has transformed the drive for the better. The ratio matches the tyre size the same as the foresters run so it's a tried and tested setup, just not really done in an L series in this fashion on a regular basis. I added a snorkel for added confidence during water crossings: This was 2013. For the christmas period we were planning another road trip to WA to catch up with some mates I made over there on the cruise in 2007. Unfortunately after finally getting my AC sorted the Head Gaskets let go. Not a bad run so I shouldn't complain - just the timing over the silly season slowed down the new parts arriving in a timely manner. But she's sorted again and running very well. First time I've had an EJ stripped down like this: Where I think the HGs let go, wasn't major but enough to run hot on a warm day. No damage resulted, money saved there Back together sporting a new radiator conversion (N14 pulsar) and new thermo fans - a good setup so far: Over Easter 2014 we ventured into new territory out at Walhalla in the foothills of the Vic Alps: First real good use of snorkel - Fulton's Creek Tk, Walhalla: Messing around, Fulton's Creek: Trig Track - 12 switchbacks! Loved this area and seriously cannot wait to get back out there! Last trip most recently was to McKillop's Bridge (very speccie!) and the general Snowy River NP, VIC: ^ Pics do not do this bridge justice, it's very high, very long and has been flooded over several times! I was with a "different" cohort for this trip with some mates in larger, "real" 4wds: Ruby Scoo held her own: Until I managed to blow 2nd gear coming off throttle on a down shift from third. Nothing harsh about it. From here it was a tow job, not fun! Once back on a decent track - logging truck track - we decided to see if I could manage third, using low range as another gear. This was done to avoid time delays, rocks flicking up and damaging the front of my vehicle and my newish windscreen. It was noisy in the box but it kept going, at the time I was kind of past the point of caring. After stopping for the others to catch up (I was rally style, they weren't!) we continued but I think it was too much, once the oil settled in the gearbox bits had moved. At walking pace I ended up locking up all four wheels. We were trailered from there, trailer came from Orbost. Then another type of towing occurred a week later: ^ These guys were great, they let me park up for a week in their yard very cheaply! Near M&D's, not quite "home" though: The gearbox came out at M&D's before I took the car home as I was itching to get it started. Once the box was stripped we found this damage: I've since sourced an SG forester gearbox for it's stronger internals as Subaru did a big overhaul on the 1st and 2nd gearsets in these boxes along with a few other things. My bench looks like this as I work through the little hurdles that are thrown my way: I've had to modify a few things along the way, the low range synchro hub being one of them: Latest modification hurdle is the woodruff key for the 5th gear as I want to use the 0.87 ratio I've got in the shed, not the SG's 0.78 as that's what I used to have and I wasn't too keen on it at cruise: That's where I'm at. Using Redback (Brumby - more to come on this addition to the family!) as the daily which is what I got her for, but I can't wait to have Ruby Scoo back on the road and 4wd'n again. I'm also working on some surface rust I've found since removing the gearbox, this is a slow process itself and work/family/social life is getting in the way too. Weekends are not at home at the moment I hope you've enjoyed reading and viewing the pics. While writing this and looking at the large number of pics I've got I've surprised myself just how many places I've been with Ruby Scoo. Many more pics if you want to view! She's currently knocking on 500k kms... I've had many great times out bush in this vehicle and I'm hoping there will be a number of years of more good times to come! Just have to get it back together and out of the shed!!! Regards Bennie

I am in desperate need of a 1994 Subaru Legacy EJ22 Wiring Harness and ECU in order to do a Volkswagen Vanagon Engine Swap. I have a custom made conversion kit through Kennedy Automotive out of Palmdale California that is made specifically for a 1985 Automatic Volkswagen Vanagon and a 1994 Subaru Legacy EJ22 engine. I have the transmission conversion kit and the engine and everything else that came with the cutom conversion kit except for the wiring harness. Any help in locating the part would be MUCH appreciated. I am willing to pay for shipping handling and labor if anyone can find one in decent condition. I can't find any junkyards within hundreds of miles of my location that have this car in their yards. I need this specific engine wiring harness because the conversion company has a deal with the state of California that allows instant smog certification on these specific engines.

Just thought i would share this awesome thing. A guy on ebay is selling an ea81/ea82 to ej22 swap with all the parts on ebay. Low mile engine. If I had the money and it wasn't 8 hours away, I'd be picking it up More than likely the seller is on this website too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Subaru-EJ22-engine-with-EA81-EA82-conversion-setup-/202151761344

So last week my stock alternator died. I replaced it with my GM 1 wire alternator 60 amp , which i keep for just this type of circumstance. Since the tension bolt does not match up. I installed it with my Redneck wood shims method of tightness. Then on Monday i was able to get an JY alternator from a 2002 EJ25, $17.50 Below are the wiring diagrams I used. Now with everything on still have 14.1 at battery.

So I have a 86' GL-10 with 355k on the body, I'm not sure of the mileage on the transmission, but it's starting to be extremely rough shifting all gears, and sometimes doesn't like to go into first unless I'm at a complete stop, how difficult is it to replace the transmission myself on the 5sp 4wd version. I've done a trans swap on a 2001 Camaro, but that was rwd. I guess tied to that would be asking if there is anyone in the greater seattle area that would be able to do it for me, obviously for a price. I plan on driving the car cross country in May with some friends so I'm trying to get it into shape for that. I've replaced everything short of the radiator(perfect condition), trans(shifts hella rough), engine(makes a ticking noise while idling, if sitting for more than 5 minutes, also burns some oil when using trans to decelerate) and diff(seals on rear diff are slightly leaky but 4wd works solidly) at this point.

As I have lost my original threads thanks to Photobucket's nonsense, we will start anew. I introduce my 1996 Subaru Legacy LSi, which I have for over a year now. The road to glory has been a good one so far and time will reveal more greatness for this car. Here is what was done to my car during the high compression EJ22D project in the past year: Engine: EJ20D heads, valves, and valve springs (1997). EJ25D big plenum manifold (1996 LSi stock). EJ25D wiring harness (1996 LSi stock). EJ253 water pump (2006). EJ222 block and head gaskets. EJ205 oil pump (detailed). EJ257 coolant crosspipe and sensor. EJ257 timing assembly and extra roller. EJ257 oil pan. EJ257 Moroso oil pickup. Gates blue teflon belt (DO NOT BUY THESE). Tomei timing belt guide. VMS lightweight crank pulley (1lbs). Grimmspeed intake manifold spacers w/bolts. All new seals and bolts. Self milled heads via sanding. Lightly ground intake ports. Refreshened and seated valves. 4 extra straight pins for head gasket and head security (Str8 mod). Custom head bolt torque sequence (2lbs tighter on the last 3 rules). 1st generation Subaru Legacy engine cover and brackets. EGR disable. Ignition: Started with Dodge 420A coil, then upgraded to MSD 8239, then further up to the Accel super coil for the SRT-4. Body: 1999 Outback SUS bumper covers, front bumper brace, and grille. Lights: JDM RS front headlights with HID system. Sequential front turn signal lighting. Rear USDM w/VNT red paint. Exhaust: Early UEL w/2.5in catback to unknown muffler (we'll call it the Noemi Spec C). Electronics: WRX radio. Raizin voltage stabilizer. New Sony xPlod rear speakers. Interior: 1997 Outback SUS Safari woodgrain trim (actual laminated wood). Steering: 2004 STi steering rack. L&E Fabrications steering wheel to rack conversion joint. Rallitek steering rack poly bushings. How the car looks today.

I'm attempting to turbo my N/A ej22, car is a 1999 Legacy L 30th Anniversary edition. I don't see why a phase 2 ej25 head won't mate up with the phase 2 ej22 block and they are both SOHC but I know that there is greater wisdom than I posses lurking in these forums. My ej22 block has single port heads and I want to swap them our for the ej25 duel port heads in order to run boost. what issues do I face? will the heads mate right up to the ej22 in a "plug and play" way? will my stock ECU know what to do with the ej25 cam? Any general advice? I will also be switching the full intake manifold so advice on that would be greatly appreciated. Are there different sensors I need to be aware of? Line placement issues?

- Fixed - I'm almost positive this has been discussed but after hours of searching the boards, I'm at a loss. I swapped a 95 ej22 into a 95 ej18 car. These 2 electrical connections remain unattached and I'm uncertain if they were ever attached to anything. Any help would be appreciated.

Hey guys, I need some help with my full exhaust setup. I am trying to make it bolt on in 3ish pieces: header, cats, and catback (2 pieces). I'm going bolt on to avoid any welding as I have a limited budget. My current exhaust is rusty and the previous owner replaced the flanged with pipes and added a welded in flexpipe which has failed with a gnarly crack/leak. What I'm buying: Inferno Fabrications single port uel header (2.25") OBX catback (2.25") made for the 1998-2001 Impreza RS. What I am looking to buy/have found: Aftermarket catalytic converter (1 piece) made to fit in 2.5L (1997-2005 Legacys, Foresters, Outbacks, and 2.5L Impreza's). Does anyone know the inlet/outlet diameter size of these catalytic converters or what size donuts or flanges to use? I've been searching on many forums (here,nasioc, rs25, and a few others) but can't seem to find an answer. Any input would be appreciated.