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Showing results for tags 'FWD'.
Found 20 results
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Hello. So, I Just Bought, A 98' Subi Leg. Outback. 165k Miles. Black Ext., Black Leather Int., Pwr W/D, Heated Seats, So On. So To Start Off... I've Owned, 4 Old Gen Subis, 1.8L', First Time Owning The 2.5 DOHC... Purchased it in Portland, Or. Drove it to Salem, Or. No Issues. Drove To Work Next 4 Days, Which Is Only 12m Hwy Majority. It Puts Out Heat, Drives Smooth, Until The Last Mile, Into Work. (Roll Up Steaming!) Climbs, And Stays. Other Times, It Climbs- Burps- Drops- Repeat. The Oil Was Like Vegetable Oil. Visc. Chattering Lifters, And Just No Good. Figured That May Be AN issue with it overheating. Solved That. I Am Leaning Towards Head Gasket(?) Or/and Bad Thermostat(?) Currently Stuck At Rest Stop On I-5 And I Cant Even Get Heat, Out Of Heater. Water In, Boils Out, (Or Gets Pushed Out?) I Was Supposed to Be At Work, In 5 Hrs. Which Ain't Happening. Any Info, Ideas, Quick Fixes, Etc? --Oh-- And Radiator Top Neck Spout, Broke So, Neck Is Only About, 3/4" Long. Fighting Getting A Tight Connection With No Blazing Steam... Thanks, And Hope For Some Advice/Good News! Lol -
I've got a 91 subaru Liberty LX, it has 290,000 km on it (about 180k miles) and hasn't missed a beat since I got it about 6 years ago at 220,000km. Until this past weekend of course... I was reversing out of our driveway, and just as I was about to go out onto the road, I head a clunk and it stopped moving, the engine was still running. I heard a quiet tapping sound for a few minutes before it went away. Now it idles fine like it did before with no strange sounds, but when I put it into gear, nothing happens. doesn't matter if it's 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th or reverse. It won't move, it doesn't make any noises shift still feel great, clutch feels fine. What makes me the most nervous is that I can shift into gear while the engine is on without the clutch so I don't think the engine is spinning the gearbox. But if the driveshaft is broken, wouldn't it make noise? I've checked the CV joints in case one broke and that's why it won't go but they are solid. I have picked up a 1990 Nissan Pulsar so I can take my time getting the subaru back on the road and do everything right. Any help is greatly appreciated. -
Recently purchased an '86 Subaru Standard, my first FWD Subaru. Started contemplating a 4WD conversion, have a rusty Brat that would be a perfect donor... so I thought. This is why I will always return to this forum for research: Through searching this forum I learned that the 4wd hatch gas tank is 4wd hatch specific, the Brat tank would not work. There are ways around this using the fwd tank, but only if you lift the car considerably. I wish to keep the car more or less stock height. Also the driveline to the rear diff is different, the hatch has the shortest wheelbase of the ea81 models. Thats a no-fit for the Brat driveline. Plus the locations for the mustache hanger and center carrier bearing are not "there" on fwd models... would have to drill and tap locations for the bolts or have them protruding into the passenger compartment. And have read that the trans tunnel is shaped differently, and could need some massaging. Even after that the shift boots will most likely not have a great fit. It would be great with 4WD, but like wise people say on here; unless you are a masochist, leave it be and find one that is already 4WD. I will let it stay a gas sipper. Have heard mention that the "fat case" ea71's that come in this model are somewhat rare. Wonder if they are more similar to the ea81 than earlier ea71's. Thanks again USMB for the great info.
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My 78 Leone Runs & Drives. I need it to go to a good home. Its on craigslist here: https://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/d/1978-subaru-leone/6318139708.html
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Hi, I have a 1990 Subaru Legacy L Sedan with the stock engine (2.2L EJ22/E), and occasionally, thin white smoke will seep out of the passenger side of the hood. I'm also leaking oil (but who isn't?), and I think oil is leaking onto the exhaust header and burning off. I don't really have any clue where the leak is actually coming from, though. I've already replaced the valve cover gaskets, and that didn't really do anything. I've kept her filled up with oil, so the engine still runs fine, but I would some day like to actually have it fixed. -
Im about to head outside to replace my front passenger wheel bearing FWD. I haven't done one in years and it was on an Isuzu rodeo. Can someone give me a quick rundown on the process before I jack my car up? Much Appreciated! -
I'm stuck! I almost have everything apart to get to the wheel bearings, but that stupid tie rod.... I cant get it to drop.
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So I've been playing around with the FWD fuse in my car, because why not. And it's pretty cool, similar to my Brat where you can activate it on the fly. (I ran wires and a switch into the car from the fuse wire and was able to activate it and disengage it while driving) But I'm very curious as to how it exactly works. The car has an automatic transmission and I understand that the computer engages and disengages a clutch for the rear wheels, and it is the same clutch that controls the power split from front to rear. But where exactly is this clutch? Is it at the back end of the transmission? Can the disc be changed if they were to wear out? Or do you need a new tranny? If anyone has a section from a manual or book that explains how it works technically, that would also be appreciated. -
Hello all. I have an interesting issue. 97 Legacy outback wagon Automatic shuddering while pulling of the line in first gear. Feels like a bad trans mount in an old RWD car. Problem goes away with the FWD fuse in. There is also a slight shake at 60 in AWD but it is also gone in FWD. Unfortunately I did not drive it prior to pulling the motor for head gasket replacement except to drive it onto a Uhaul transporter for the 70 mile ride home where my daughter broke down. As I said, runs like a scalded dog in FWD but shudders in AWD in a straight line or turning unless on a gravel road. Shudder goes away then also but cant get up to 60 to check a tire shake. (I am not that nuts). One more thing. When trying to get a rounded nut off on the bottom left bellhousing the axle slid out some with the stub shaft. As this is my only Auto roo I do not know if this is supposed to happen. I did end up pulling the left axle to gain access to the rounded nut. Everything went back together in their original orientation. Any help or ideas would be helpful. I do have the option of bidding on a couple wrecked roos for parts if necessary. -
I have an EA81 hardtop coupe that is fwd, and my front wheels are shot, as well as having bald tires. I have a pair of 5 lug wheels just sitting around, so i was wondering if it was possible to convert the rear to a 5 lug. It has drum brakes in the rear. Plus, I think that it would be pretty sweet.
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Is it true that you can use Mazda Miata rear shocks to lower the rear of an ea81? I have a fwd hardtop, so I can't just adjust the trailing arm to lower it.
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Hey there guys and gals, I am the proud owner of a 1986 2 dr FWD Hatchback with 122K on the car. I bought it from its original owner so most of the original parts that came with it are starting to wear out and require routine matience. I'm working on my clutch and I am looking for a replacement flywheel seeing as the one I have currently installed has already been machined once and I always plan ahead for the unexpected. The only problem I have is that this part is hard to come by. The issue is that I have one of the rare FWD only models that was just sort of thrown together at the end of the model year from leftover parts to create a sellable product. Subaru stopped manufacturing the car model in 1984, but kept selling the vehicles with a new model year on them until they ran out. As a result, I've run into my share of issues when tracking down parts and have spent many a weekend in the wrecking yards tracking down old donor cars to keep my old gal running. I need the 7 in diameter flywheel. Seeing as not many FWD models were really made and still exist, there is very little demand for and no after market manufacturer for this part. All of the flywheels I've found are the 8 in flywheels that are designed for the 1800 class engine that was primarially put into the 4WD models that came shortly after my model year. I'm fairly confident that I can sand the glazing off of the flywheel with my grinder, seeing as it isn't gouged or warped in any way. However, while it may not be an issue now, in the future if I can't find a replacement flywheel for my engine I may be forced to make a conversion over to the 4WD Dual Range, which might force me to have to upgrade to the larger engine. If anyone has this part or has any advice on what sort of transplanting/frankensteining I can do to solve this issue, please don't hesitate to message me. If there are any other models that carry a flywheel that might be compatible then let me know so that I might broaden my search.
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I was just thinking how cool it would be to somehow get my 1990 subaru loyale to be rwd but still have the pushbutton 4wd. is there any cheap reliable way of doing this, is it worth it? Your thoughts
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Good morning all, Does anyone know the part number for the FWD manual transmission that goes into a 1989 Subaru GL wagon? I attached a picture of a transmission that is thought to be for my car but I want to make sure. The number that is hard to read is TM70F5A2AT-AK thanks, Lewis
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Okay, I'll have to add pictures soon, but, I just completed the conversion to make my FWD DL become 4WD. If there's any interest in this, I'll post up pictures and a description/ instructions for the build and the best methods of afroengineering it all together. Until then, I'm going to take a shower and if anyone cares I will post up the build. I've attached a photo of the car which received the work.
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Yoyo, first time poster. I have a FWD XT. I want to stiffen the ride without lowering it, or lower it minimally (already can barely fit my head under the thing). I have four new KYB-Gr2's already. Does anybody have any recommendations for a set of springs for me? Im thinking some adjustable Honda springs might work?
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http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/359-01049330.html?utm_content=YN&utm_term=1982-1987+Subaru+GL+Struts+KYB+W0133-1615015+Front+82-87+Subaru+Strut+Assembly+1985+1983&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=COzk5eWCxbwCFUiGfgod-xcA-w Will these work on my 82' 4WD Gl wagon? And has anybody done this? how much lower are they than the 4WD struts? and can i use the stock 4WD springs? thanks guys!
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Alsalam Alaykom and Good day, i am seeking for knowledge as it is not found anywhere around, i have several problem with my 97 Subaru Impreza "FWD-1.6" which i really love so much, and i was hoping to find some answers in here as even in the internet haven't much related to my car: when i am on the first gear, and raise my foot gently to make the car moves "without using acceleration" the whole engine shakes real bad, and to over come on this problem, i have to use the acceleration, which i don't consider normal as i have driven so much cars that could drive without using the acceleration, although there's a little shake in the other gears, but the first gear is the worst experience, so i was hoping for some answers regarding this matter, what trouble shooting i should do. i would like to have a full map for all the sensors for 97 Subaru Impreza "FWD-1.6" with the function of each one, and how to check on them. in winter, when its cold, the engine temp. decrease so much, and i don't know the reason for that. the engine sound is so loud, like lots of loud quick "tic-tic-tic-tic", is this normal in subaru world? what are the things that i suppose to check from time to time, and what should be replaced after exact time or km i really appreciate your time for just reading my problems, and i am hoping to hear from anyone that might help me, as you don't know how much this car means to me, it's love -
Hey community .. gotta '94 gx impreza ej18 fwd 5sp .. and love it.. but i have a water leak coming from the rubber seal for the timing belt cover.. had a look on here but can't find much info.. anyone got any clues? -
Modifying the Rear Spindle's Locking System (for Front wheel Drive -2WD- EA82 Subarus) _________________________________________________________________ When is Needed to do Service on Ball Bearings or Brake Pads / shoes on the Rear wheels of a Front Wheel Drive -2WD- EA82 Subaru, you'll notice that the Drum / Disc is held in place by a simple Nut which is prevented from spin freely by a Locking twistable Washer that Locks everything, and with time and repeated Twistings on and off, such washer trend to Break. Sometimes is even worse, the worn Washer Breaks / Fails \ Loosens the Nut while the Car is in Motion and it Makes the Bearings to Loose its tightness and can lead to a Huge Bearings Fail, Damagin' the Spindle and even it can lead to Loose a Wheel and Make a Huge Fat Crash... So, I Decided to get rid of the Washer Locking System, for a More Safer Option: I installed a Safer "Castle" Nut instead of the regular Nut, and I Drilled a Transversal Hole to the Spindle, where the castle nut settled, to Cross both the Castle Nut and the Base with a twistable Nail. Images Worth thousands of Words... See: Drilled the Transversal Hole on the Spindle, and placed the New Castle Nut Closer Perspective: Already with the Nail Crossed and Twisted: Finally, with the Original Cap ...... it Works Great! Finding a Castle Nut with same Thread and with Small Width to fit there, was very hard, I Found mines on an aftermarket store; the salesman told me they belongs to the steering arms of a '97 impreza ¿ ? I Hope this Idea Could Help Many FWD Subies Owners ... ... Kind Regards.
