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Showing results for tags 'GL Wagon'.
Found 14 results
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STOLEN 1987 Subaru GL wagon. Silver color, EA82 with 5 speed D/R. Stolen Oct. 17th in North Seattle. WA plate AHR0543. The back seat (bench type) was removed. The image is from before the 'Quick-n-Easy rack' and tent install. The roof top tent is a 2 person TEPUI. Travel cover is black. Large black plastic wind deflector in front of tent. The tent fabric is the silver colored all weather, 4 season canopy. I made a larger rainfly that fits over the stock rainfly. Very unique appearance because the custom rainfly is supported by tent poles with shock cord to make long horizontal poles. The tent had defects from the factory. One problem was the holes for the stock rainfly support rods were drilled horizontally. I had to drill vertical holes so the rod anchor places have 2 sets of holes. The ladder side floor has two 4" diameter port holes with threaded covers in the corners for a heating system. Half the heating system was in the tent. The tubes to convey dry heat are 2" diameter stainless steel bellows type tube (very rare tube ). Vehicles all over Seattle are stolen with shaved keys so homeless persons can have vehicles to commit crime and live in. It is mobile family dwelling. The homeless population is immune to prosecution. They park on the streets and can not be towed. If my vehicle is trashed, I will have EA82 and GL spare parts available: engine, heads, case bolts, lash adjusters, mirrors to list a few. If you see this vehicle in western Washington, please call the Seattle Police Dept. non-emergency line 206 625-5011 with regards to incident # 2020-296202 Thanks ahead of time, Silverback
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Good morning all, I posted a while back about a fuel pump, which thanks to y’all’s help I was able to get replaced. However, a new problem has arisen. My 87 GL-10 wagon isn’t running well. This morning it started up fine, but began to misfire and sputter when I put it in drive. I replaced my spark plugs and fuel filter, but now it won’t turn over. I have a Haynes Manual to go on. Does any body have any idea what it could be? distributor cap and rotor maybe? thanks, Kevin -
Hi all, this is my first post on this forum despite making an account some years ago so thought I would show off my project of 8 years which is on the road at last as of this week. I've been a member on the Aussie Ausubaru forum for many years, there's not so much activity over there these days but it is good to see so much activity on this forum To start with a little backstory; This is a 1981 GL wagon that my parents bought new in 1981. It was originally dual range 4 speed, EA81 of course. It used to be silver hence my user name and the name of the car (it used to be jokingly referred to as the silver bullet in my family because it was so slow) Even though it is blue now I don't think I can shake the name. It was also my brothers first car, and then my first car. By the time I got it there was a few rust holes and the engine was very tired, everything was very tired. I decided to take it off the road completely and do a ground up restoration with mods...I parked it for the last time towards the end of 2012! So this is the 9th year currently, but there has been a few years of accumulative hiatus in that time for various reasons. There is too much information to put into one post, I had/have 3 threads on Ausubaru detailing all the work that has been done on the engine, suspension, bodywork, interior. So I will just put a list of mods and a couple of collages so maybe you can get an idea of how much work has gone into this car. It is on the road at last and I'm currently breaking in the engine. All going pretty well so far, it gets better and better with each passing kilometre. I plan to do lots of camping and road trips in this car, with some light 4WD'ing as well. Mods: - EA81 twin carb (true twin carb engine with the larger swapped valves) fully rebuilt - Megajolt EDIS programmable ignition, distributor deleted - Custom made (by me) stainless exhaust, 2 1/4" mandrel bends and V band clamps, purge welded with TIG - A/C, power steering - L series 5 speed - L series complete front suspension, brakes, hubs, axles with slightly modified control arms, custom chromoly adjustable radius rods - Disc brake rear end, braided brake lines all round - 2 inch lift kit - 6 Gauge "tacho dash" instrument cluster, had to make a custom PCB to drive the tacho off the EDIS. Used the tried and true 555 timer tacho circuit - Full custom re-wire front to back, all designed by me, using a Liberty/legacy fuse box in the engine bay - LED lighting throughout - 90 amp Nissan alternator - CB radio mounted in a center roof console along with L series room light and map lights - Outback front seats, extensively modified mounting points on the seats so I could use the Outback seat rails. - Double DIN touch screen head unit with Android auto, 4 speaker sound system with amplifier and a slim sub in the boot inside a custom fiberglass sub box. - "cyclops light" passing light which wasn't a factory option hear in Australia - 4 x 114.3 stud pattern - this wasn't done by me but the previous owner of all the hubs and L series gear I bought. I'm wishing they hadn't done it now because ironically getting the wheels I want is easier for 4 x 140 now. I'm having to buy new steel wheels and get them extensively modified to change the offset and rim width. The alloys in the pics aren't right for this car in more ways than one. -Alloy front and rear bars with a rear spare tire carrier - Air adjustable rear shockers That will do for a start, I think that is most of it but I feel like I'm missing something. Of course something that isn't really a mod is all the rust repairs and body work that were done way back at the start. I cut all the rusty steel out and welded new metal in. Thankfully in this part of the world the rust wasn't too bad, I've seen the same car at wreckers that look like they've been stored under water. The paint job is something I got done professionally since I didn't want to compromise on the result and hate painting of any description. I think it was worth the money to get it done properly. I also got the rear seat re-upholstered professionally, and this was the second most expensive thing in this car after the paint job! Also worth it though. Well done if you read through that novel, here's a few pics. I need to take some more updated/recent pictures of it though, and shoot a decent video so you can hear what it sounds like. Feel free to ask any questions on any of the mods I've done.
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So i lost my spare key the other day, it was the last one i had left and was out in the woods so we had some mcgyvering to. Got it hot wired under the hood but the steering wheel lock still works so straight was our only option. We tear the steering column apart (its a gambler style car not worried about breaking things) to get the key cylinder out, that was easy, got the car started, great, got home. Next day went to start it, no choke on it cuz of weber carb, so i was warming it up.... it died, went to start up again dash light and heater/radio all the auxiliaries came on turned it over and they all faded out. no power nothing, checked battery cables just fine, fuseable links on coil are fine (maybe the hotwiring fubard it). Heres what strange to me while trying to figure out wtf is goin on we hotwired it under the hood again and it starts up runs drives, power to everything dash/radio/etc. turned it off, no power to anything with key switch still. Checked all fuses checked voltage of harness under steering wheel, 12v, I am out of ideas, and leads? is there are relay or something im missing that went out? please heeeeeelp meeeeeh. Thanks!
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I'm looking for help diagnosing the front turn signal lights on my '89 GL Wagon. Problem: Both the right and left turn signal lights are not working on the front of the car. Assumptions: 1. The rear turn signal lights are working. 2. The turn signal light bulbs in the front are working (not flashing) when the headlights are on and not indicating to turn. 3. The turn signal indicator is working on the instrument panel when indicating to turn. 4. The normal clicking sound is heard when indicating to turn. 5. All of the fuses are good. Thank you for considering the above. Your advice will be appreciated. -
Hi, I am looking for opinions or suggestions about what to do as I really don’t want to see these cars junked if at all possible. Both are in good exterior shape and if I had the money I’d restore both. I never see them in my area anymore and I have always loved the body style. The 82, (light tan and a now faded woody) probably the more restorable of the two, for reasons to be explained, is a 5 speed and I believe was the top of the line 82 model, power steering, air, etc. The engine was replaced and ran well for some time but water ended up in the engine and it has sat ever since (about 4 years.) The other is an 83 silver 4 speed with a great exterior (small crack in windshield) however it has been sitting outside for years and has become a packrat condo to the point where the hood latch cable (I assume it’s a cable) was munched long ago so the hood no longer opens. (I have a photo of a neatly packed engine compartment taken when I was able to open the hood.) Not sure if anyone would want a project like that. I remember reading a post on another message board about California making it very difficult to get older cars registered so I don’t know if anyone in this area would be interested in either. I would love to see these two cars, if not on the road, usable again in some form. Suggestions or comments would be much appreciated. Thanks, Alice -
So I'm planning on doing a ej22 swap in my wagon but there's a lot of things i need to plan out before I can do so. One of those things being how am I going to do a 5 lug swap so i can have a better suspension system in my gl, have easier and cheaper access to wheels, and also be able to lower it easier. So here is my question for you guys: Is it possible to put 95 legacy suspension in my gl and if so, how do I do it?
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Our car, a 1986 GL Wagon, has an aggravating problem, having to do with starting. The car will start fine for any random number of times, then, with no warning or advance symptoms, it will refuse to start. After sitting for anywhere from 1 to 3 days, it will start back up again for an indeterminate amount of time, after which the no-start problem will show up again. During the times it doesn't start, when the key is turned fully into the start postion, we observe the following: No dash lights No map light (front overhead dome light) No head lights Radio does get power Overhead lights and 4-ways work The horn works There is no response from the starter at all, not even a click Today we had the car towed across town. It had sat, unwilling to start, exhibiting the symptoms above, for three straight days. We tested the car before the tow … no start, no joy (the last time this happened, the problem resolved itself overnight). The car was towed, and dropped at the mechanic. When we attempted to start the car after the car was dropped, to demonstrate for the mechanic … it started normally and ran normally. After thoroughly reviewing the status of all the fuses (including the ones under the hood), It's now back in our driveway and the hard part is we paid for a tow to no end, at least for now. Does anyone have any ideas here? Our mechanic … and us … are absolutely bewildered. Even some ideas as to diagnostic paths to explore would be welcome. Our inspirations run, so far, mostly to the ignition switch, maybe it needs replaced. After that, we're in the woods on this. Thanks in advance for any advice, friends. Sam. -
I noticed a lot of water in cargo area rear quarter wells. I removed the rear interior panels and washer unit. I see a drip and looking up under the wells see it is coming from the plastic press in fasteners that hold the black ABS plastic trim under the rear panel windows. That is crazy. the window is dry all around, this is a hole through the rear quarter. There is no rust it just drips down the expanding plastic trim thing. Looked further and all 4 on each side leaking although not as bad. I managed to cap the bad leak with 1/4 inch thread protector cap filled with LEXEL sealant but can not reach all. The problem I have is how do you remove the exterior trim around cargo windows. For that matter what is best way for all the window/side trim to be removed? There is a lot of plastic on GL that was omitted on my 93 parts car. I think later model trim was bolted in, access from interior. looking for manual now any help would be appreciated. -
Hi folks, long time stalker of the forum.... Now I need some help. GOt my daughter an 86 GL Wagon, I have an 85... Love these little tanks! But her's developed a couple of symptoms I'm trying to trouble shoot. Few days ago, her passengers headlight went very dim... Checked fuses, replaced out of principle. Nothing... couple days later at school it wouldn't start. Tried jumping it, nothing. The OS lights all come on, the electric fan kicks on, radio powers... but when ignition turned to start, nothing. Fan stops, lights go out... release starting position and all lights and fan come back on, figure that is just an interrupter mode while starting. maybe not. So, thought maybe starter... Replaced with good one from my 85 parts bin... Same symptoms. Starter does not engage... Took old starter to parts store, tested bad. Again, replacement starter was tested (good) before installing. Could be ignition switch I guess, but several people have told me that would be a long shot... Any help with gitting my girls little tank back on the road is much appreciated. I have read about the grounds and am going after them this weekend... Some where on this forum a guy listed 7 grounds to be checked and corrected. Plan to do that asap... Anybody have diagrams of exactly where they are located... I got an idea, but details always help. However, the starting thing is a bit odd to me. Car is an 86 GL Wagon Dual Range, 5sp... Hicrappy carb, no AC, No accessory lighting...
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Hey everyone, My name is Luke, I'm from Corvallis, Oregon, and I've just recently purchased my first Subaru. While I am not the most knowledgeable about them (I know just about enough to be dangerous ), cars in general occupy an area of particular interest in my life; Subarus, however, have secured a special place in my heart because of their heritage and pragmatism. I've yet to really be an active member of the forum, but I already spend a ridiculous amount of time lurking and searching through threads trying to amass the knowledgebase I'll need to build the Subaru of my dreams. I've definitely got a lot to learn, but I am confident that I'll be able to find the vast majority of what I need here on this forum. Anyway, time for the good stuff, right? My first Subaru, as well as my first running car (a non-running 1978 Honda Civic was my first "car"), is a 1988 GL wagon with a 5 speed dual range transmission that I have dubbed the GLory Wagon. I bought the car with a 4" lift and 32x10.50R15 tires on 6 lug 15" rims (the hubs are still 4 lug). I've since put on some slightly more sensible 185/70R13's because I can't afford 16.5mpg and 32" is way too much tire for a 22 year old EA82. In the long-run, my plan is to turn this thing into the ultimate camping/mischief machine. For me, this entails an EJ22 (maybe Frankenmotor in the even longer-run) swap, an LSD, fabricating my own set of steel bumpers as well as a safari rack, plenty of auxiliary lighting, and a whole lot of other bits and pieces that I'll save for whatever build thread I end up cataloging all of this in at some point in the future. Like I said before, I only know enough about these Subarus and working on cars in general to get myself in trouble, so I'm sure this forum will be seeing plenty of me in the weeks/months/years to come. Here are some pictures of my dearest GLory Wagon: The old wheels (I honestly think the look great on the car, the just rub like hell and I get awful mileage with them on) And the new rubber \ I've kind of gotten used the the "car on stilts" look, actually. -
part number 86521GA230 - nothing available from dealers in US or Canada and not available from Fuji in Japan - my old pal is a paperweight without the part -
I'm wondering on wether or not I should buy a 1992 Subaru GL wagon. The car is $800 and in pretty good shape for the age. I'm wondering how hard and exspensive will it be to convert it from fwd to 4wd/AWD and if it's worth doing or not http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/4464956741.html
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1982 GL Wagon exhaust issues. Halp!
scoot_loops posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Hey guys, im new to this forum, as well as fairly new to the subie cars. Im a college student, and a bought a 1982 GL wagon off of CL since my last car died. It was 625 bucks, 191k miles, some rust, and some minor maitenance needs to be done. I fixed some small issues but this one issue is really buggin me and i don't think i have the right tools, or i might be missing a step, or the problem may be worse than i thought. But it has to do with the drivers side exhaust header bolts. I've already checked another post out here that helped out in the beginning, gave me the bolt sizes, type of studs, and a way to tap them. Anyways, ill start from the beginning. The wagon sounds like a cross between a motocycle and a lawn mower. So, i was looking around underneath the engine and checking the exhaust line to see where the problem might lie. I found that one of the stud bolts on the drivers side exhause was missing, and the other stud bolt on that side was barely hangin on. Whomever worked on it before me has also added another bolt to a stud hole as kind of a "clamp" if you will for the exhaust pipe. After checking around here, i found out what i "should" be able to do to reseal the gasket and the stud bolts. There wasn't much room between the bolts and the exhaust pipe to getting my tools in there and trying to retap the thread was rather difficult, but the first time around, i managed to get a stud bolt in on on of the missing spots, and it held fairly well for about two weeks. The bolt that i had installed fell out again and now the car is back to its loud, exhaust-smelling state. So that's where i am now. I tried getting the bolt back in, but every time i tighten it up, it looses its grip and pops out. Which leads me to believe that it is stripped pretty bad. The other exhaust bolt i can't even to into to tap without removing the 'Y' pipes. and if i just stick the tap bit into that one it feels like its been shredded so bad that the tap doesn't even have anything to dig into. I fear that this is the case with BOTH stud holes now. So any suggestions on the tap? should i get slightly larger bolt and totally retap with a bigger pitch? Also, i haven't seen a thread yet, but if i need to remove the Y-pipes to get some more room, how would i go about doing so? i can see all the bolts, but i want to make sure im not missing something, and i also need to know if i have to remove the entire pipeline system, which may be a little out of my skill level. Thanks guys!
