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Showing results for tags 'GL-10'.
Found 14 results
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I have an 86' Gl-10 4x4 that has a blown headgasket and seized engine, I want to get the thing up and running again because I love driving it, but I also wanted to look at doing an EJ swap instead, what type of Ej is going to be the most straightforward for the swap, I want to keep my 5 speed in it, although I know I'll have to swap out the 4x4 hi/lo 5spd trans for a newer awd manual trans, what kind of tips and advice can you all offer? Thanks for whatever help I get!
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Looking for a front left blinker for a 1986 Subaru GL-10, thank you much -
So I have a 86' GL-10 with 355k on the body, I'm not sure of the mileage on the transmission, but it's starting to be extremely rough shifting all gears, and sometimes doesn't like to go into first unless I'm at a complete stop, how difficult is it to replace the transmission myself on the 5sp 4wd version. I've done a trans swap on a 2001 Camaro, but that was rwd. I guess tied to that would be asking if there is anyone in the greater seattle area that would be able to do it for me, obviously for a price. I plan on driving the car cross country in May with some friends so I'm trying to get it into shape for that. I've replaced everything short of the radiator(perfect condition), trans(shifts hella rough), engine(makes a ticking noise while idling, if sitting for more than 5 minutes, also burns some oil when using trans to decelerate) and diff(seals on rear diff are slightly leaky but 4wd works solidly) at this point.
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So.. I found and purchased my dream machine Subaru GL-10turbo (85,000 original miles) After 2,000 of my own miles she comes with one incredibly annoying issue that no one.. and I mean no master Subaru mechanic can fix or even have an answer for. The alternator accessory belt is simply not made anymore. Seemingly ALL aftermarket belts are just not proper enough to last more than 1,000 miles before they have stretched too far for the alternator/pulley adjustment and just squeal like a dying pig. PLEASE... for the love of god.. as I put on my 3rd belt in 2,000 miles.. does anyone have a solution. Even better... please provide details on the best belt and make of belt. Maybe even a link if where to order one. Or maybe I am completely missing the answer and it's a pulley gone bad?? If a Subaru mechanic will not help me figure it out I thought to try here.. Thanks Everyone!!! -
Hello, I've searched quite a bit and I'm just trying to confirm. I have a 1989 EA82 with turbo that i'm adding gauges to, and I'm trying to figure out what the thread size of the sender is. It appears that it's 1/8NPT x 27 on the oil pump, but i want to confirm that this is true. PS if anybody is interested in these I can get them to you at about $60 a pop.
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"Could the legends be true?" "Legends dont burn down villages..." Elder Scrolls VI: Pleiades I've got a 1986 Subaru GL-10, I traded an MR2 i got for $500 and $1000 on top of it, This may very well be the only rust free GL-10 in Minnesota, and may be the ONLY GL-10 in MN, there is a red one to be rumored to be in existence here but the rumors are few and far between. Options i have on this car are: Digital Dashboard, Active Ride Height, Trip Computer/Range computer, power windows and locks, sunroof, every option available except leather seats if they were offered. Mechanically it is an EA82T, One of Subaru's first turboed engines. It is unintercooled and the slowest engine ive ever had in my life (runner up is a D15B running on 3cylinders). The transmission is an Automatic 3 speed, which when coupled with the motor makes for a very long trip to 60 mph (16 seconds at 65 degrees going downhill) It sits high but its because this spoob is a massive pain in the wongleflute to lower. I lowered the front 2 inches with Subaru XT struts, which did seem to help the look. The back is dropping 2" on some Eibach replacement coilover struts sized at 9"x2.5" (stock is 11"x2.5") Then i hit the wheels with some 150 grit sandpaper to clean them up, i still have a ways to go. But so far that's where I am now, final product will be 5x100 swapped (GC impreza front suspension, XT6 rear suspension) lowered another 2" on subaru impreza coilovers up front and legacy coils in back. Power will probably come from an EJ family engine, most likely an EJ205 with a STI turbo kit/intake manifold mated to a first gen Legacy 5 speed transmission. So stay tuned guys...
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Alright, so this is the first time ive posted on here before, ive been on here for 2 years now but never had a reason to post, well i recently bought a blue 1990 loyale that had been sitting for 10+ years, i need help deciding whether to pull the plug on this vehicle for parts for my other wagon or rescue it. Pros: not a single spot of rust interior is beautiful body is straight as an arrow A/C somehow still works power windows and locks work 130,xxx drove 180 miles from where i bought it. 4wd Cons: Automatic transmission oil seal leaks smokes ALOT when it runs rear passenger wheel bearing is bad electric fan does not work head gaskets look pretty soaked in oil so it probably needs new headgaskets my question is what is all the smoking out the exhaust? how do i fix it? is it head gaskets? and how much life can i expect out of an automatic EA82? is it even worth fixing, because my other wagon is ready for a new rear bumper and powersteering and seats and more stuff. keep in mind that i live in south Texas where these EA82 cars are rare and have yet to see another in the last 3 years of driving my GL sadly... i am the cars only mechanic, and finding parts down here is a joke. everyone refuses to work on it, even the dealership. any help is greatly appreciated thanks!! -Omar
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I have an 87 gl-10 turbo that has recently sprung quite a large coolant leak (it come pouring right of the engine as I pot coolant into it). I have looked under the hood and underneath the car and I think that the coolant is leaking from the water pump. Is there anywhere else that it could be cause it to leak so much coolant and is there any advice that you could give me on how to fix it. I have basic automotive knowledge but if I could get some pointers and maybe simple instructions I know I can at least attempt to fix it.
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so this rig is an 87 loyal, basically only the body is original. we disabled the throttle body of an ea-81 and added a draw thru carb. she runs like a horse on the open road but having trouble getting the carb tuned just right for stop and go. its also a gl-10 tranny and has skinny 15" rims. . . fun right? yeah mostly:) ....(also looking to trade/buy into some 14" rims) -
I did some searching and found stuff stating that it can be done. but I've not found any proof of it being possible and what customizations have to be made. I've got the xt6 5 lug swap done. I know the outer front axles will work there. but the trans is a female not a male like the xt6 correct? I'm thinking I would have to run impreza axles. and then comes the gear ratio matching with the rear end and driveline length I believe is shorter. if anyone has any info on this I would love to hear it. I'm going to continue clicking on the search button in the meantime! forgot to mention I'm going to be doing a ej20t swap from a 94-96 sti
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Hey guys, new member here. I recently aquired a silver 87 GL-10 turbo wagon with air suspension and the 3 speed automatic. I essentially got the car for free so I figured if it ran, I'd spend some time and a little money trying to get it running good so I'll have a winter car. It sat for probably 2 years, at least, up in the woods of the northwest. Encouragingly the car started right up with a jump, and it actually drove over 180 miles down to where I live without any needed repairs. So far, the problems I’ve found with the car are limited to the push-button 4WD not engaging( which may be a bad button is all) and more importantly...the air suspension will not lift the car. When I turn the key to ON, the compressor starts running and continues to do so for about 8-10 minutes then shuts off. After it shuts off, the light begins to blink on the dash indicating that there is an error. I’ve found very little technical information on this system that I can effectively use to properly troubleshoot the problem. The little that I have found has informed me that the behavior I just described usually occurs when a leak is present in the system. Because the ride height does not change after 8-10 minutes of the compressor running, the computer assumes there is a leak so it shuts off and projects an error code to the driver. I also read somewhere( and I could have this wrong, please let me know) that the computer will always try to raise the rear of the car BEFORE the front. So, with this in mind I removed the plastic and carpet from the back of the car and checked the air lines for holes. I found out that mice had literally severed the air line going to the passenger-side rear wheel. I bought a couple air-line bridges(blanking out on what they’re actually called) and patched the line. As of right now that’s the only defect I can find in the air system. After fixing that though, the system still does the same thing. It runs for 10 minutes without any change in elevation, and then shuts off leaving me with nothing but a blinking dash again. What I’m hoping for is for someone who has had experience with these air systems to suggest some things to try. Or that possibly someone who has a technical shop manual for the 80’s GL’s could take a gander at the pages detailing air suspension troubleshooting and post some suggestions...maybe even some scans One observation that I’m not sure is important, is that my dad unhooked the middle hose from the compressor that goes to the tank. We noted that he was able to blow air INTO the compressor...which seems like something irregular. But I’m not sure. Maybe it needs a new diaphram? Help me out. Oh and before everyone starts chiming in saying that I should just tear out the air suspension.. I’m not going to put that much work into this car lol Plus, everything seems to be in good condition, the car has 150,000 miles. Thanks in advance guys. -
First new car in years. I want a subaru!
chrisR posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Hello, I'm finnaly buying a car after being carless for years and I'm looking for advise on what to get, what to considerater, and what mods to look in to. I've been doing some research, mostly in these forums, and I'm thinking a 88 or 89 GL or Gl-10 wagon might be for me. This car will be a daily driver but also used for weekend and week long trips to the desert in eastern oregon and Idaho. I don't plan on any hardcore off-roading but I'd like to be able to go out into the country without worry. Specific questions are 88/89 GL a good choice or should I think about a newer Loyale? GL or GL-10? Largest wheel/tire size unlifted or go for a slight lift? Are the turbos reliable and worth it? Bare bones or all the options (are the options prone to breaking)? I'm sure there are plenty other considerations I should make that I don't know about. I'm very excited to become a Subaru owner as I've wanted one for years. Thanks for any advise! -
I just bought my first subaru, It is a 1988 Subaru GL-10 Turbo 1.8L 2wd Sedan, I would like to start doing some small modifications to the car, and slowly build the car up. I have enough stock parts to build this car over a total of 4 times (minus complete motors, transmissions, and shells, I have extra body panels and a ton of etc parts) Basically i was wondering for first of on this list of mods: 5 Lug conversion Lowered suspention Blow off valve Front mount intercooler adjustable boost controller w/ boost gauge catback exhaust anything to add some small horsepower without breaking the bank too badly, or to make the car more reliable. please if somebody could start me off in the right direction that would be great, i just finished all of the body work to the car, now i am eager to start modding! -
FIRST POST! Is 19mpg normal for an '87 GL-10 Turbo wagon? I bought a really clean '87 GL-10 Turbo wagon with an automatic 3 speed transmission a couple months ago. The previous owner only drove it a couple hundred miles for the year he had it. It only has 123,000 miles on it (just a baby!) I'm not really getting the mpg's I was hoping for. I've been driving really conservatively, but I only average about 250 miles per tank (250/13 gallons =19mpg). My question is: Is 19mpg normal or is that low? I realize that pretty much anything that goes wrong with a car is going to hurt your gas milage, but is there anything in particular i should look into given the year and model? Any common problems out there? Anything with older cars in general that should be done to restore gas milage? SUPPLEMENTAL INFO -supposedly the fuel tank capacity is actually 15.9 gallons, but the fuel gauge says its empty at 13, so thats when I've been filling up again and calculating miles. -I also replaced the oxygen sensor and got a new timing belt. -I replaced the fluids when I got it and I've been using a couple different additives -new tires -One thing I've noticed is that the car doesn't coast very well at all. Even on a good decline, if I'm going 35mph and I let my foot off the gas, it'll slow down quite a bit, whereas in my wife's new forester, the car will continue to gain speed just from rolling down the hill. I'm a newbie and certainly no mechanic so please educate!
