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Showing results for tags 'Gl'.
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hey! trying to find a part that fits - the part number listed #621108170 as the OEM part doesn’t fit, neither does the aftermarket part. pretty sure they’re the original control arms based on the parking brake line fit. thoughts? help? -
Meet Harold, our 1984 GL wagon. Highly original survivor originally from New Mexico. Dual range four speed, ea81 with a Weber.
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My 1986 Subaru GL was leaking gas from the vapor canister and I fixed that issue but now when I start the car I can drive it and it’s high RPMs when I first started and then it’s dies. I’m driving the car sometimes hesitates to accelerate having a rough idle and higher RPMs in park. I replaced most of the vacuum hoses so I’m ordering a EGR valve. What else could it possibly be? -
Well my 1981 GL got me through most of this weird rump roast winter with little snow however early last month I was ready to leave work and went to start my car. I’ve had some weird starting issues where if I don’t get it started on the first bout of cranking sometimes it won’t crank again just click. This time it did just that and I usually would just go thow a little jump pack on it for a minute and it’ll crank over again. However this time it blew my fusible links and the fuse in the box under ign & fuel gage. Spent the past month pushing off/ learning about all that crap and now it’s suppose to snow soon so I’ve been rushing trying to fix it. I have cleaned and replaced some grounds, pulled apart that little rat nest of wires around the ignition coil, and tested the relays (to the best of my ability). However I cannot seem to get the coil to get any power beyond .80v (I tested the coil and it has proper resistance). A buddy and I did get it running a couple days ago but, when I turned the keys into start, my stater would engage and the engine would fire however once I would let go and it would flip back to run it would completely cut out. Made a post about the prior problems I had on in a Facebook group and they helped with a little bit of the wiring. One of them also told me to try jumping the positive terminal on the ignition coil to the battery itself and it ended up working flawlessly even my starter cranked instantly which usually takes a second or two to engage. Ofcourse then I went to go turn it off and it wouldn’t until I ripped the extra wire out. Not sure where or how I’m loosing power along the way but when I pulled the circular (I think 6-8pin) plug out from the external voltage regulator and tested the battery side the black with white line wire is only reading around 1.14v and that is also the same wire I have traveling up to my ballast resistor and is what I believe supplies the power to my coil. There is also the black with red stripe that I have attached to the positive terminal of the coil too. I checked the voltage right before and after the new fusible links I’ve put in and they are 12v so I’m not sure how I’m loosing over 11v. I have the Hanes book and have looked at the wiring diagram but I’m just not good with this electrical stuff. I will probably add some more in-depth stuff tomorrow kind of word vomited tonight however I'm beat right now and the snow starts Friday morning so I got 2 more days. 😭 *can add pictures if you think it’ll help.*
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The time has finally come for the Ignition Lock to get stuck in my Brat. It was already in a state where the key could be removed in any position and while driving around. Currently it is stuck in the Run position, and can start the car, but will not turn back to shut the car off. Is it possible to remove this lock cylinder? I have a parts GL Brat with a good lock cylinder in it to swap out if so. 1985 Brat Gl (tilt column steering)
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I am new to Subaru and have acquired an 83 GL station wagon, straight body, garage kept and she runs!...kinda. It starts but floods because my metering rod is seized inside the carter weber carb. I seem to have purchased the last rebuild kit in the US (or so I've been told) for just about $300! Now I'm being told I should get a new carb and haven't had any luck finding anything to fit the carter/weber intake manifold on this EA81 engine. I'm learning to work on this car, not a mechanic so my knowledge is very little on conversions. I want to see her drive but may not be the project for me since parts are rare and no sentimental value to encourage me to spend the $$$. The interior is immaculate, the original owner has everything down to the dealer keychain in the leather case. One dent in the drivers door but other than that, the car appears brand new. He treasured this car and hoped I could get it on the road again but been hitting dead ends so this is where I'm at. I can either find the right manifold to accept a new carter redline carb or hitachi carburetor, or find one to adapt to mine but the last thing I want to do is start parting it out or sell it all together. Upon waiting for my carb kit and sending back the redline carb that won't mount to my manifold, I've cleaned the fuel tank, new filters, pump and fuels lines. unseized the back brakes and got all new parts and haven't run into a snag until now. I am hoping to get some information on where I can find a hitachi manifold or work around for the original carb. Any information will help. -
Working on a clean 83 GL garage find! Been sitting for about 7years but everything on it is in great condition. Super excited about this project but am in the learning stages of working on carburetors. I’ve cleaned the tank, replaced fuel lines, filters, even traded out the fuel pump bc I was suspicious of the box looking one not working. Been bottle feeding at the carb and she sounds great but knew I had to dig into the carburetor if I want her to run. I’ve been taking advice from a few old forums on here and got the Carter Weber $3 manuals off eBay along with a service manual. It seems people debate in the hitachi versus the Carter but I would like to stick with what I got but hope parts are not unobtainable. The fuel sensing unit seems to not be working after I dismantled and cleaned but that’s the least of my worries at this point. Any ideas or help in that would be great. I need to find a rebuild kit and haven’t had any luck on a couple sites such as rock auto and whatnot. Hoping carburetors unlimited or some other recommended sites could help me out. Appreciate any advice in advance and have a nice day!
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I have the manual to the 84 gl, but the vehicle I drive is an 85 BRAT. Can I use the 84 wiring diagrams to fix the 85 BRAT? -
I want to replace the heater hose on my '85 BRAT. What diameter should I get?
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I did some searching and couldn't find much. This problem really has me scratching my head. 1982 GL Brat 200K plus on the body When the Left turn signal is on, it blinks normally as it should, however the "Stop Lamp" light will blink on the dash in time with the signal light. When the Left turn signal is on, and the Brake is applied: The LR taillight alternates between turning on/off the Lamp and the Reverse light individually, and the time of the signal light on the dash is about half the speed. It completely forgets to flash the indicator light instead. Having both Brake applied and turn signal on, the "Stop Lamp" light on the dash shuts off. The right side is unaffected and has no problems with the signal under braking or not. I have checked fuses, checked bulbs, and even swapped out the entire LR taillight assembly from another Brat; same result with the slow alternation of Brake light and Reverse light. And just FYI the reverse lights work normally when in reverse. Anybody out there have a similar problem? I'm thinking I have a bad ground or a short somewhere... -
heeeeeey. i’ve been lurking the forums since buying the murder machine in 2017 & getting so much info from y’all thought i’d finally post some photos. 1986 gl wagon, ea81 swap with weber conversion, 4 inch sjr lift. 6 lug conversion currently running 215/75/15. all the interior lights have been deleted, & the cooling fan is on a toggle - i live in leadville so it’s usually cool enuf. straight exhaust to annoy the neighbors. just installed the steel front bumper & winch!
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I have a 1986 GL wagon that I need to get rid of. It would make a great parts car. The thing has been reworked and is missing much of its vacuum lines and has a carburetor off of something with an air cleaner from a f150 (I think). But the engine is mostly intact, missing the alternator and coil. (And no I didn't do most of the butchery). The glass is intact except for the cracked windshield and sunroof. I would also have a SPFI EA82 that I want to get rid of. I can get $300 for the GL from a scrap yard. Not sure what the EA82 is worth but I do know oil pumps are getting harder to come by as are other parts. I am in the Seattle area and would like to see these gone this weekend.
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ive picked up a project recently that i had given up on for a while. The things that have stumped me about this 4" lift that i got from SJR was how i was gonna extend the steering column and shifter linkage. i heard that you may be able to take a steering column from a legacy, but if this is true i don't know what years i could take one out of for it to work. 1984 gl hatch EA81 1.8L no power steering -
Anybody have any experience converting the EA81 Quad Headlight setup over to the EA81 Single Headlights with Cyclops? Or know of a writeup? Believe that I have everything needed: Single Headlight Core Support Single Headlight Buckets/Bulbs Single Headlight Bezels with Turn Signals and Pigtails Third Eye (Cyclops) Full Assembly with Pigtail Third Eye Grill Relays that sit on the passenger side (RH) strut tower Third Eye Switch from factory that's used with the HighBeams on. Part that's confusing me is how the wiring goes from twin lights, one for low and one for high beam, to single units that do both functions. Guessing that the turn signal wiring that goes to the front bumper will have to be rerouted so they will go to the corner flashers of the Single Headlight Style. And then there is adding the Third Eye to the equation... The easiest method in my head; Take the entire front harness from an '82. Place that harness in the body of the '86. (thats the year of the EA81 chassis its going into.) Not sure if the connectors between those years are the same or if they were changed? I have an '82 that is badly rusted and is more like a donor vehicle. Ideally would take the cyclops light setup from it and put it on the '86 which is still structurally sound.
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Hello all, This is my first post here, but the USMB has already been a huge help for me with my recently-purchased 1984 GL 4x4 wagon. My question, which I have yet to find an answer for, is this: where can I get a cone washer for a 1984 GL? I've had no trouble finding them online for an '85-90 GL, but no luck for an '84. Subaru's website seems to only have parts for their cars going back to '85. So will the '85-90 cone washer (I believe they actually call it a "center piece axle") work, or do I need to look elsewhere?
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Looking for a 4 speed manual shifter bend Oregon add me on Facebook Brooklyn Santos
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I have recently put a lift on my gl and I knew I was gonna need longer break lines but I cant seem to find any that are longer. I have found plenty of replacement lines but i cant seem to find any that are longer. If you happen to know of a place I could get longer ones that would be great
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I’ve read mass posts on here about Weber instructions etc., and now I’m super confused. I watched a mechanics shop in AU give a 30 min. “How to” on an 80s Brumby. confusion: they never mentioned; Plug intake coolant, or EGR delete. Also: if the connections for the bowl vent valves aren’t connected, the car should still turn over? Mine are both toast. I purchased directly from Weber (the entire kit, which AU mechanics used) and now I need help. I think my kit will arrive tomorrow (Monday). I have the Hitachi off and I’m ready to go as soon as it arrives.
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EA81 Unsolvable steering wheel shake
tylertrend posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
My '82 GLF coupe has a wheel shake at highway speeds that persists even after new tires, brakes, brake rotors, repacked bearings, tight suspension, rack, tie rods and new front axles. I noticed the output shafts on the trans (5MT) are pretty sloppy and have a lot of movement. The axles also make sounds like they're worn out when slow speed cornering even though they are new. Anybody dealt with this, and is it possible the loose trans output shafts can cause a bad wheel shake at high speeds? If that is it there is probably not much I can or will do to mend it. -
...before it happened. Or at least it should have. Hindsight is 20/20. The 3rd eye harness is very close to the battery. Rats were hungry and ate some of the insulation off of the red and black wires in the harness. Went to pull the battery to use in a different car; took off the negative terminal first, and then wrecklessly set it down in front of the battery, with the positive terminal still connected. Before I could undo the positive terminal I heard a "snick" similar to a fuse popping. The negative terminal had brushed those exposed wires... either the red, or black, or both. Now the highbeams work, as well as the "beam" icon on the dash. But once the 3rd eye button is pressed, neither it or the "center light" icon on the dash work. The 3rd eye was funtional before, door and light. McBrat, the one who built the straight-axle '82 Brat, had a diagram on "Indys World . com" but unfortunately that site is no longer up. What kind of tests can I do? Did I blow a relay or worse the 3rd eye?
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I am about to attempt an engine rebuild on my 87 3Door and realized how grossly unprepared I am. It would of course be much cheaper and easier if I could find and already built engine or even a short block to buy, but I am having zero luck with that search. My questions for you guys are... Do you know anywhere I can either buy another engine already rebuilt or a short block to help with cost and labor? Are there any tips you have for a first time engine fiddler? I have had my car for several years and have done loads of work on her, but after blowing the head gaskets this last time, and getting blow-by in the engine, I decided it was finally time for an overhaul. Any help is mega appreciated!
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Hey super new. And there is probably a good forum you can point me to. But here is the issue I am having with my 1989 FWD GL. I just bought the car it has 100,000 miles and looks to be in ok condition. While driving it I noticed it was slow going in and out of gears and had a lot of trouble in reverse. When in reverse It would rev and slowly back up like a boat then it would get more traction and be fine. NBD I thought, it was old and cost me a couple of hundred bucks and when it goes bad I’ll put some hair on my chest and learn a bit more about cars. Lol. The next day while driving the transmission decides that going into gears isn’t cool. Press down on the gas and it revs like it’s in neutral. I check the fluids. (Which I promise I was going to do that that day.) Everything looks good except the ATF is empty. That can’t be good. So I fill it to proper levels at proper temps. Shift through the gears. Drain, clean the atf filter and pan. Refill. The car still doesn’t move. It’s not leaking any atf. Not a drop. So after some research I have a few ideas. Governor gear getting apple cored. Vacuum Modulator sucking atf into the engine and burning it. or A host of issues that all at up to transmission says no. THANKS IN ADVANCE!
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Hi all, I've been using this forum for the last month to try and figure out for to get my 1983 Brat GL running. I recently rebuilt the Ea81 it came with and swapped the hitachi carb for a Weber (new). There are some rust issues with the car but the engine is in great shape. I've got the engine back in the car and it'll fire up with starter fluid sprayed straight into the carb. Tuned the fuel mixture, set idle, timing, etc. Now the issue is, if I detach the fuel line going straight to the carb and run the fuel pump, fuel comes out of the line and flows nicely. However, when I attach the fuel line to the carb and run the pump, it's like there is no pressure at all. No fuel runs through the forward fuel/vapor filter. I hear the pump running but fuel doesn't fill the filter. Could it be an issue with the float? Or possibly the Weber filter underneath where you attach the fuel line? Or a pressure issue? Do these carbs need a return line? Would really appreciate everyone's ideas and replies in advance. I've worked with the carb on my motorcycle (dr650) but other than that I don't have too much experience with carbed Subarus. -
Had a front end collision on my brat a while back and finally getting around to doing something with it. Couldn’t find a radiator support or a shop that would fix her up so using her for a parts car on my wagon and parting out what i don’t need/can use seems to be the best route. The interior is in surprisingly decent shape, most of the plastic hasn’t deteriorated yet. I’ll check this thread regularly or message me about parts and I’ll shoot prices back. In the central California area so keep in mind the shipping and time to remove some of her. Interior is already started but body parts and others might take some time to get
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The engines on my 84 gl 4wd wagon, and my ‘85 Brat look pretty much the same. Are the exhaust systems the same?
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