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Showing results for tags 'Help'.
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So I made a mistake and bought a ea71 for my brat I got a good deal but I’m not sure if I can hook my ea71 up to my brat idk how different they are so I gotta ask can I hook this up. -
I have a 2001 Subaru Forester L with auto trans. I started hearing a really loud clunking noise (as the wheels turn) as I was driving near my house. I immediately took it back to my garage. The noise is very brutal, as in something is ready to break and break badly. The motor and everything jerks pretty bad with the noise while the wheels are rotating. First inspection, it had a really bad busted inner CV joint on the passenger side front, which I noticed had lots of play. Replaced with a new axle, but the problem is still there, no change at all. It really sounds like the noise is coming from inside the transmission, like the front differential is ready to go??? It only makes the noise when running in gear while driving or with all wheels lifted off the ground. It doesn't seem to make the noise / jerk when turning the wheels by hand. I took a rather large video (over 150MB) so I'll provide a link to the video below, any help would greatly be appreciated. https://sendvid.com/om7qyxz4 -
---- 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L H4 AWD Automatic ---- Hey all!! This is a continuation of my dads car that sat for 2 years outside in Montana. Just looking for pointers as I things here and there. Just this past weekend I finally started the car! Good news is that it runs pretty darn good considering what its been through. What I've done so far: - Changed the valve cover gaskets, spark plug gaskets, grommets for the bolts. - Spark plugs - Oil and Oil filter - Thermostat, Radiator cap and coolant. - Drained old fuel and added new fuel So after 2 years she started up and ran fine, fans kicked on and I burped the system for bit then capped it off and drove it around the block a few times. Everything feels pretty good, lots of power (for 160Hp that is), breaks work but need to be changed, power steering squeaks a tad when fully locked out to either side. Couple issues. 1. When shifting from Park into reverse, there is a bit of a lunge or soft clunk and you can definitely feel the car shake a bit. When driving through the gears its good but could be a little smoother. So I'm not sure what is all to be concerned with there. 2. I was test driving and I noticed the temp gauge started to move a tad bit past the middle so I drove back a 1/4 mile and parked it and saw a trail of me dripping coolant all around the apartment complex. Popped the hood and found the upper radiator hose spraying coolant out the side. I grabbed the hose and it came right off and there was a piece of the upper radiator port broken off inside the hose and I squeezed the hose and the plastic part of the port stuck in there snapped so it was very brittle and from my memory of when it was overheating 2 years ago in Montana, that hose was spewing coolant. so time for a new radiator. Any precautions I should take when swapping the radiator out seeing as how there was broken pieces in the hose and I'm worried some may have gotten in the engine? however It seemed fine while driving back other than I noticed the temp gauge rising. and should I go OEM with the new radiator? they are currently like $300 -
---- 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L H4 AWD Automatic ---- Hey all!! This is a car that sat for 2 years outside in Montana and its my camper project.To be clear I haven't started this car in 2 years. I'm taking every preventative measure that I know of before I start this thing so I don't cause any extra damage. I was the last person to drive it 2 years ago and it was overheating a bit (or the gauge was saying it was), bubbles coming up through the overflow tank, we only drove it about 2-3 miles pulling off every few hundred feet to let it cool down and pour water in the radiator since its all we had. without having turned it on yet the head gaskets appear to be in tact and they were changed to MLS about 3 years ago, so I certainly hope I haven't blown anything from that small drive. Nothing crazy happened that I could tell, no loss of power or anything abnormal while I was driving it all seemed normal other than bubbles coming up through the overflow reservoir.Anyway my goal is to not damage anything else when I turn it on. When I changed the oil it was not milky and showed no signs of coolant mixing with the oil, it looked like normal oil and I don't quite know if I can say that that means I didn't blow a gasket so if anyone could tell me what else I should be worried about and from a visual inspection, the Valve/Rocker cover gaskets seemed to be dripping oil or maybe it dripped from somewhere else I'm not sure but again I'm taking every precaution I can other than super expensive overly involved repairs like a water pump, timing belt and head gaskets.other than advice for my general goal of getting this thing running without extra issues or at least turn it on and have it running well enough that I can identify bigger issues that require me taking it into the pros, I need help with the replacement of these valve/rocker cover gaskets.I am changing these valve/rocker cover gaskets, grommets and bushings out along with the spark plugs since ill be down there anyway.The owner service manual says I should put "fluid packing sealant" on the corners of the semi circular part of the covers and a couple other places. I have no clue what an appropriate amount of sealant is, and I'm not confident enough that the diagram from the service manual shows all of the right spots.So if someone could help me out and maybe provide a thread, video or personal advice on how to do this properly.Other precautions I'm taking before turning the key for the first time in 2 years (please help me add to the list or let me know what steps to do something properly:1. Oil change and oil filter change2. Drain old fuel from gas tank3. Drain old coolant and add new, as well as bleed system of air with radiator funnel kit.4. OEM thermostat replacement5. Replace spark plugs.6. Fogging oil sprayed in cylinders while spark plugs are out.Tell me what I'm missing and feel free to ask me to clarify anything I left out
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I got a XT H6 with no turbo. The hot to cold blend mix doesnt move at all, the turn signals dont flash or the hazards, the drivers seat autoseatbelt doesnt move, the rearseats dont fold down, the drivers side door unlocks itself when it is locked but when the door closes the door unlocks itself, i dontn know what winshield wiper type to get because it has a weird one hole thing, the previous owner put in a kill switch because the battery was draining during the night and had to jump it but got a new battery, missing the trim for drivers windshield on the side, the glove box doesnt close at all and the lock for it fell out but is there. Please help me fix these things. -
I have a 2010 Tribeca with 175k miles. I bought it used a few years ago without autoshop work papers or receipts, so I'm not sure what works been done. Overall, it drives smooth and without issues. Today my check engine light, AT Oil Temp, Cruise, and Traction control lights came on. I brought it to O'Riellys for a code read, and they said it was P0700. Today and a few weeks ago, I was at about 15 mph and accelerating slowly, and my car jolted hard, but it's only happened twice and at low gears. Can anyone give me some insight on what the issue may be, and how expensive it will be to resolve? Obvi my transmission is funky, but any info is helpful. And is it neccesary to bring it to a shop or is it a self doable fix? -
I've got a 91 subaru Liberty LX, it has 290,000 km on it (about 180k miles) and hasn't missed a beat since I got it about 6 years ago at 220,000km. Until this past weekend of course... I was reversing out of our driveway, and just as I was about to go out onto the road, I head a clunk and it stopped moving, the engine was still running. I heard a quiet tapping sound for a few minutes before it went away. Now it idles fine like it did before with no strange sounds, but when I put it into gear, nothing happens. doesn't matter if it's 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th or reverse. It won't move, it doesn't make any noises shift still feel great, clutch feels fine. What makes me the most nervous is that I can shift into gear while the engine is on without the clutch so I don't think the engine is spinning the gearbox. But if the driveshaft is broken, wouldn't it make noise? I've checked the CV joints in case one broke and that's why it won't go but they are solid. I have picked up a 1990 Nissan Pulsar so I can take my time getting the subaru back on the road and do everything right. Any help is greatly appreciated. -
I have a no start I thinks it’s from my Ignition coil transistor but I’m not sure can someone tell me where I can buy one -
I have an 82 brat I am swapping to Fuel injection using @GeneralDisorder guide. I have everything in place and wired up. My issues are as follows. I am only getting 6 volts at the coil. And I'm not getting any spark. My fuel pump works. But only shoots fuel when it is hard wired. It won't turn on in test mode. Nor when I crank it I don't think. The ecu blinks at me when my key is in on which is a good thing I think And the engine turns over. I have looked and read, then looked and read, then looked and read again through the guide and my harness and I really believe I have everything hooked up correctly. Minus the neutral switch and cel wire. Any any any help would be Uber appreciated!!! -
I am in the middle of a carb swap from a carter-weber to a hitachi and I just got the new intake in but the vacuum line cp (hard vacuum lines under intake) are different. not sure what to connect to what. curious if anyone has a diagram or information. thanks
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Hello all, My 2002 Outback has developed a very strange misfire recently, and while it probably inst a Subaru specific issue (I don't think at least), I wanted to ask y'all for help since y'all haven't done me wrong yet. The misfire started last week, it wasn't too bad at first, but got progressively worse and worse up to the point where it was feeling down on power, and stuttering to the point where it would almost stall out when moving away from a light. There was and still is no check engine light, it stuttered like crazy moving off from a standstill, it backfired like crazy, and it developed a small tapping noise that sounds like either an injector, something else top end, or even a small exhaust leak when I was moving/accelerating. I started running through the procedures of figuring out what the issue was, and I had narrowed it down to bad gasoline since I had filled up from a station that ran its tanks dry and had their pumps sitting for a few days. I threw a can of Sea Foam into the tank later in the week in the hopes that it would help fix any weirdness in the fuel. It did help, so over this past weekend I refilled from about half a tank and drove 300 miles round trip to my hometown and back to run out the tank and squeeze out any junk in there. While I was in town I pulled the spark plugs on the passenger side as well as the injectors. They were acceptably clean upon visual inspection, so that sealed the deal for me that it was a fuel issue (I didnt get a chance to flow test the injectors since I didn't really have the time/money to see if they were up to snuff however.) I also checked the plug wires and there were no breaks in them, they haven't been shorting on anything, and the contacts looked clean. When I returned back to town I refilled from very nearly empty, and drove it around town a bit. It was a night and day improvement, it didn't stutter anywhere nearly as bad, (the coupled of times it did stutter it was quickly killed off by adding more gas when moving away from a light), and even the tapping noise had either gone away or had quieted down to the point that I couldn't hear it. So, I thought everything was fine and dandy, I went ahead and poured another can of Sea Foam into the tank to stabilize any bad fuel left in the system, and called it a day. However this morning when I got in to drive to class, the stutter and tap had returned in force. What was interesting about this round is that it subsided quite a bit once the motor got some heat in it, and the noise was either very quiet or non existent. There still isn't a check engine light either. I'm pretty thoroughly stumped by this. I'm good with a wrench, but I cant diagnose to save my life so any help will be greatly appreciated. Just a little background on the car to make things easier (hopefully), it has 177k miles on it, it has had head gaskets done in the last 20k miles, O2 sensors replaced in the last 5k miles, and I just put a new catalytic converter on it less than 1K miles ago. It's also had the fuel filter replaced at some point, although I have no idea when. This thing has seen a pretty hard life, so honestly anything on this thing breaking wouldnt surprise me at this point. Thank you all in advance, -A -
So, I got this Subaru DL Wagon back in February. It’s only got 60k miles on it it’s honestly in great condition but I’ve now broke both CV Axles, driver side was simple replaced in axle good to go but the passenger side broke and tore up my hub. (Think the previous “owner” The Subie dealer that I got it from) put the wrong ones in and just pressed till they fit. Any ways I have been looking for a new hub does anyone know if the justy front hub will be a direct replacement for the stock one on my 1988 DL? Thanks for any advice or any where I can get the right part I’ve called Subaru and the parts guy laughed when I said what I had haha
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Hello, I am looking at a Subaru where it is a loud ticking noise from the engine. Look at the video linked: It apparently started when the person startet up the car and the car suddenly revs higher and higher by itself. They managed to stop it without any problem. Sounded like a turbo problem, but after a look on it it seems like that is not the case. Don't see why it would tick like that either. Diagnosed the fuel flow into the cylinder and that seems fine... Can the chain make this noise?, even though I don't think that'sit. Its a Subaru Impreza 150hk 2010 model. I am completely new to Subaru. -Thanks for the help -
Hello, After MUCH searching of here (and elsewhere) I have almost every Spec ever wanted, save one. I've read the writeups, they are awesome. I have spring load, loose length, total strut length collapsed and not, inner and outer spring diameter, etc. But I cannot seem to find just the standard loaded height of the EA82 wagon front springs! Something has gone hinky in my camber, and the ride height doesn't look quite right, but I do not have the stock height written down. Not the full shock length loaded, or the car ride height, just the spring itself. So, could someone please walk out to their EA82 wagon and measure the spring length from bottom of the tophat to bottom of perch with the car just sitting on the ground? I would really appreciate it, thank you. -Charlie
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Hello! I am in a situation where I received a mint condition Subaru Forester 2007, no turbo, ej25. The only issue with this car is the fact that it had a front accident which busted an engine cylinder, I am looking to replace the engine as a whole and am looking at local pull-a-part's to buy the engine. My question is if anyone more knowledgeable about Subaru's can suggest which Subaru engines will be compatible with this model (apart from obviously finding the same model). From my research, I've heard there are certain Impreza and Outback models that have the engine, but I am not entirely sure so I thought I'd ask. Any help is appreciated! Thank you. -
My oil pump shattered and it's stuck in the engine. Here's the back story: I was replacing the oil pump in my 85 Brat when, while removing the old one from the engine, I turn around for a second and my dumb friend decides to use a mallet to get it out. The oil pumps are know to shatter and naturally it did. Unfortunately the worse case scenario came true and part of it is stuck in the engine still. It will spin but refuses to come out. I've tried everything. I even drilled a screw in it so I had something to pull. Any suggestions?? Pics attached https://ibb.co/foXbjx https://ibb.co/hbnnrc https://ibb.co/dMoABc https://ibb.co/mPqe4x
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my 07 impreza started ticking a while ago. but only seems to get worse as time goes by, and only when the engine starts to warm up. my first Subi and I love it!!! hoping someone can help easy my worries please. any info is welcome thanx -
Just did full valve job, belts, pulleys, water pump, etc... Done many before so pretty good at it. No corners cut. Fel-Pro gasket sets, etc... The car runs smooth and idles great. Seems to rev fine in neutral or Park. From a dead stop if you nail it, it does not jump off the line and the transmission takes a few seconds to downshift into lower gear. ( I just changed most of the fluid and the spin on filter. carefully and slowly got the fluid level perfect.) If I start up a hill and gently apply throttle the engine has very little power (no misfire... just no go.) Plus transmission takes it's time downshifting. Once you get rolling or on the highway, it has no problem hauling rump roast. And the transmission runs right up to 6K redline and shifts right to the next gear. Also shifts manually to all the gears no problem. We hooked up a super nice Matco scanner tool today that reads everything while you drive, etc... No codes. Can't find any vacuum leaks. Changed the fuel filter and lines. Tried spark plug wires. Gas is fresh. Still will not go off the line or uphill! Please.... If anyone has any logical things to try, HELP ME! Thanks in advance!- 13 replies
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Help!!! Had a severed wire in trans when pan pulled. Blue wire going solenoid in bottom when pan was pulled. Reconnected the wire connector broke but have rechecked since and is fine, was reading the torque convertor solenoid voltage code, went away when vehicle started. Have EGR code now but trans only drives in 1st and 2nd gear. If it shifts to 3rd which is rare, slips all the way. When lifting car letting it engage 1st or second gear when hitting brakes (all new hardware) torque convertor. Sounds like a bunch of bolts rattling around or a heat shield loose type of sound. Where do I start? Pulling trans now, but need fixed now and have very little money. 96 outback 2.5 4eat. Also gear shifter does not line up with gear selected. Reverse is N, drive is 3 no real click between 1 and 2 on shift lever. -
I have an 85 Brat with a Weber Carb that won't start. I have replaced: Distributor cap Distributor rotor Fuel Pump Both Fuel Filters Spark plugs Spark plug wires The closest it ever got to starting was when I put carb cleaner in it. So maybe even though it has all new fuel parts it still isn't going to the carb? Any advice would be helpful.
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Hello all, Even though I have my fair share of experience as a mechanic (been working on and around cars since I was 8), sometimes you need help with the basics. I am the owner of a 2002 Legacy Outback wagon with the base EJ251, and I cannot for the life of me get an accurate reading on the dipstick when I check the oil. I'm still somewhat new to this community and new to the nitty gritty details of these cars, so sometimes even with the basics I need to ask for advice. The problem I am having is that I can get anything from no oil at all when hot/warm, to the front of the stick (the side with the L and F stamped on it) registering no oil at all and the back side registering overfull, and once in every 10 tries or so it will actually register something meaningful. Ive tried waiting anywhere from 15 mins to 2 hrs to get as much oil drained back into the sump as possible as these engines don't really have the help of gravity to get the oil back to the sump like a V or inline engine would, and Im officially out of ideas on how to do something as basic as checking the oil on this thing. Just a little bit of background to help with things, it does not leak or burn oil (the head gaskets were done a few years ago shortly after my stepfather purchased the car, and there is no smoke, smell, or indication that it is burning an abnormal amount of oil.) Also according to records and testimony from previous owners the oil was always changed regularly, and has been as long as it has been in the possession of me and my family. I've had this problem during the five or so years my stepfather had this car, and the two years that I have had it. Are there any suggestions anyone can offer up on checking the oil in EJ's? I appreciate any advice or help I can get!
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Hi everyone -
Put in new plugs, new wires and new coil on daughters 2009 Impreza. Car worked fine for two days and then stated stalling. Readjusted connection to coil and that seemed to fix the problem,. But no! now it bucks, dies, etc. Ran scan for the problem and it says all four are misfiring. Where do I go from here. Also, new transmission went in less than a year ago. Replaced air filter when I did plugs and coils.Trust no shops and Subaru will kill me with price. What should I look for now? Help! -
Hello All! So have a new to me 2005 Outback has some issues will be asking for advice! Thanks to all in advanced! Also could use some friends with garages, know how, willing to help me out (LOL) in the Columbus area.
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So, here is the story, I have a 2016 WRX with about 5900 miles. I left the car in a parking lot for about a week on base so no one could have touched it. The car ran perfectly with no problems at all but when I got back I found out that it had been snowing everyday and had reached temperatures as low as -33F. I started up the car no problem and it drives just the same as it always did. Except my dashboard had several warning lights. The ABS, Check Engine, Hill start assist, and Vehicle Dynamics Control lights were all present. I used my accessport and got this error (waistegate turbocharger solenoid "A" low). I tried clearing it but it wouldn't clear. I took it to the dealership but they wouldn't look at it or else it might void the warranty. Any help I can get would be very much appreciated, thank you so much.
